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  • Complete Ballast Overhaul - 2006 Moomba XLV

    • Year: 2006 Brand: Moomba Model / Trim: XLV Cost: (unspecified) Ballast Modifications: Fat sac(s), Pump(s), Hose, Switches, Wiring, Fittings DIY or Professional Install: I installed it / created it

    After enjoying our first season surfing on our new-to-us 2006 Moomba XLV last summer, I was ready to overhaul the terribly slow stock sprinkler valve/aerator pump/manifold ballast system Moomba used.  So this Spring, I set out to redesign the system.  Huge shout out to @TimbrSS for his help, as I used his project and advice along the way.

    Overall, I added 2 new Wakemakers 1140# bags in each rear locker, kept the stock Gravity Games front 1180# bag in the ski locker, and re-purposed one of the stock 400# bags to a driver's side midship placement, since my family all surfs goofy.  Each bag is filled/drained with 1" lines and by its own Johnson reversible pump. I used a slower Jabsco pump for the 400# bag.  I had a pump rack custom built and painted by my crafty neighbor... thanks Jerry!!

    Here's the details:

    Step 1: Tear out the stock system... Here's a stack of some of its parts.



    Next, I ran the electrical.  I used 10 awg wire from the Blue Seas Fuse Block to the stock Carling Switches, and then to the pumps.  I swapped out a stock ACC switch cover for a custom midship switch cover I designed from Rocker Switch Pros.  I still need to run my cable from my house battery to the fuse block.









    On to cutting holes... I used the stock 3/4" thru hull/ball valve from the original manifold system for the Jabsco/Midship pump and bag.  Then, I added 3 new 1" thru hulls/valves for the other pumps.  I cut 2 on the driver side of the v-drive (which I staggered for a hopeful reduction in flow interference if I'm trying to fill on the move), and another on the other side of the v-drive (behind the raw water scupper intake so not to cause any interference with that intake) ... 4 thru hulls total.  For the vents, I had to drill 1 new vent for the midship bag, and had to enlarge all others for my new vent thru hulls... I wanted to remove the stock plastic ones and have all others match to give a clean look.  I had to use a deep socket to guide the hole saw into the pre-existing holes to enlarge them.  When it came to tightening down the ball valves and fill/drain thru hulls, I had to create a key to fit inside the thru hulls from a 5/8" deep socket, with a notch I ground into the middle.













    For my pump location, I designed a rack similar to @TimbrSS and had a neighbor weld, prime, and paint a custom 4 pump rack to hang the reversible pumps on.  Then I installed the pumps on the rack, wired them up, and then mounted the rack to the transom.  I looped my wiring at the pumps to leave room for future changes (I wanted to order up some deutsch connectors for this but was ready to save some coin by this point), and did it in a way that I could fit the loops behind the top lip of the stock transom cut out. I wanted to 










    Last, I routed all of the new 1" lines and new fittings for fill/drain, re-purposed some of the 3/4" stock system line and fittings for vents, and threw the bags into their lockers.













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    Good job,  I already added four 1" through the hull inlets with shutoff valves to my 2008 Mobuis, but used the aerator style pumps mounted directly above each shutoff valve.  It works pretty good except sometimes the pumps are air-locked and do not pump right away.  I I am considering changing to your configuration.  I do not understand why you have made mods to the outlet ports as I would think they would not be used anymore with reversible pumps.  What am I missing?

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    @JEVERS76 Thanks, good question. The outlet ports (or thru-hull vents) serve as vents for each bag.  Even if you switch the reversible pumps, you'll still need a vent for each bag.  I modified my vents for 2 reasons:

    1. I added a fourth bag (400lb under midship bench seat behind driver), so had to drill for that.

    2. I wanted all of my vent thru-hulls to match, and liked how the cheap plastic "chrome" gave a cleaner look.  They are larger than the stock black plastic vents, so had to re-drill the original holes.  I think it was 1 5/16".... wakemakers website explains it.

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    22 hours ago, JEVERS76 said:

    It works pretty good except sometimes the pumps are air-locked and do not pump right away.  I I am considering changing to your configuration.

    Likely just need to reorient the fill pumps that are air locking. 

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    Does it matter if the impeller pumps are not mounted at or below the waterline?  I would think on emptying that you would always want water at the pump to lubricate the impeller.  Have you burnt up impellors?


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    On 9/30/2021 at 10:57 PM, hman89 said:

    Does it matter if the impeller pumps are not mounted at or below the waterline?  I would think on emptying that you would always want water at the pump to lubricate the impeller.  Have you burnt up impellors?


    These pumps are not waterproof, so you do not want to mount them below the normal water line. If the bilge fills, it can damage the pumps. 

    There will be water in the pump head, until the sac/tank is empty. With the synthetic impellers, burned impellers are rare, but if left on running dry long enough, they can burn up. 

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