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SONICJK

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SONICJK last won the day on January 25

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About SONICJK

  • Rank
    Project Hack

Boat Info

  • Boat
    Tige 23v

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  • Location
    Middle Tennessee

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  1. So rotary encoder is working in the code. Now just need to test GPS. Once everything is up and running effectively I'll put up a wiring diagram.
  2. Awesome Josh. My encoder comes in today along with some jumper wires so I should be able to fully test this afternoon hopefully. That encoder looks promising, keep s updated there waterproof is always better on a boat
  3. Okay, so here's the code that works with the new board. One oddity is that the polarity of each motor is inverted, I don't know why, not sure if it's a board thing or a programming thing, but retract puts -12V on one output and +12V on the other. This is a bit annoying but very easy to solve, just swap your leads on the lenco or at the relays and all will be well. I have not tested the GPS functions or the rotray yes but it should be unchanged from Johns original code, I'll update once I get it put together. I'm also working on a bluetooth app, but I'm having to learn all that from scratch so don't hold your breath lol. Surf_Tabs_JB_Working_V2.ino
  4. I need to give it a go as well, shoot me the code you've got if you get a minute and I'll see if I can come up with anything.
  5. You ever get anything figured out on this?
  6. I don't know why FAE uses those shitty looking pieced together elbows rather than just buying mandrel bends. Just trying to save money I suppose. They are crappy for flow though. In a reasonable quantity mandrel bends are cheap
  7. Stainless tubing isn't bad if you just need 2 bends: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-13044?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JXtBRC8ARIsAEBHg4k-bXkNLDnppk5zyMf6YDpu_u0Iqi3ZagQDdnA9zqDqaFLlTgsDMuoaAnaWEALw_wcB
  8. What size are those interior tubes 4"?
  9. No updates here? I've got a box of parts for the new build and no code lol
  10. Id imagine it will be fine, my internal pipes are fiberglass but they don't get too hot. You could always just replace the hard pipe sections internally with 4" marine exhaust hose if you're worried about it. Schedule 40 is pressure rated at 140, the melt temp is much higher. You'll never have any real pressure on the pipe so the 140 is pretty much irrelevant.
  11. Got out on the water this weekend. WOW sure does make a noise difference. Totally different boat, I can now easily hear the tower speakers while surfing and even talk to people in the boat. I noticed a bit of power loss, and I can smell it running rich. Plannning on swapping to EFI this winter so that should fix that. No noticeable effect on the wave. I'm probably going to open up the transition a bit with some additional tube this winter so it's not a straight 90Degree bend.
  12. Thanks, I think oval and bigger would have been better but this is what I had so hopefully it works, I'm slightly concerned about the straight 90 and no curvature to the exit, but it seems to work for everyone else lol I think the ideal would be to do a merge collector instead of the 90 degree exit (like you did on yours, which is awesome by the way) and I may do that at some point if I'm not happy with this one.
  13. I've been meaning to make this for a while but finally got to it yesterday. I Started with 2 mandrel bent stainless 90's (available on amazon, or summit etc) and 1 12" section of 3" Stainless tube (i had it in the shop, but also available at amazon or summit etc) Oddly enough the mandrels were a Perfect fit even before any trimming so all I had to do was square the ends and weld them together. Once welded I notched the tube for the downpipe and marked where it would go. Cut that out with a plasma and then used a die grinder to clean it up. This could also easily be done with a dremel. For the downpipe I slash cut it and then put it in a vise to taper the end to hopefully avoid as much spray as possible. Then it was welded up and test fit: From there I cut some stainless flanges: The original plan was to do it without any couplers, just bolt it on. However once I started that process it's damn near impossible to get the screw holes aligned and the angles correct so I caved and just sliced the ends off and put couplers on. I can't fit my boat in my shop and I was too lazy to drag a welder out into the driveway, otherwise I would have just put it together and tacked it on the boat to fit. This picture is before cleanup and squaring etc. I decided to have to tubes extend into the factory exhaust as it's a tight fit and I think it will add some support and take some stress off the screw holes. Now I just need to add a support to the swim deck mount and I'll be good to go! That will pull the angle up a bit, as it sits it's sagging a bit under it's own weight in the silicone couplers. Added a mount to the swim deck this afternoon and cleaned everything up a bit. Total cost ~100 + roughly 2 hours of my time.
  14. Ah that makes a lot more sense! Looks great
  15. Looks great, am I missing something or are the ports not part of the box? They look like they are external to the sub enclosure?
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