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SONICJK

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SONICJK last won the day on October 15

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About SONICJK

  • Rank
    Project Hack

Boat Info

  • Boat
    Tige 23v

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  • Location
    Middle Tennessee

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  1. I don't know why FAE uses those shitty looking pieced together elbows rather than just buying mandrel bends. Just trying to save money I suppose. They are crappy for flow though. In a reasonable quantity mandrel bends are cheap
  2. Stainless tubing isn't bad if you just need 2 bends: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-13044?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JXtBRC8ARIsAEBHg4k-bXkNLDnppk5zyMf6YDpu_u0Iqi3ZagQDdnA9zqDqaFLlTgsDMuoaAnaWEALw_wcB
  3. What size are those interior tubes 4"?
  4. No updates here? I've got a box of parts for the new build and no code lol
  5. Id imagine it will be fine, my internal pipes are fiberglass but they don't get too hot. You could always just replace the hard pipe sections internally with 4" marine exhaust hose if you're worried about it. Schedule 40 is pressure rated at 140, the melt temp is much higher. You'll never have any real pressure on the pipe so the 140 is pretty much irrelevant.
  6. Got out on the water this weekend. WOW sure does make a noise difference. Totally different boat, I can now easily hear the tower speakers while surfing and even talk to people in the boat. I noticed a bit of power loss, and I can smell it running rich. Plannning on swapping to EFI this winter so that should fix that. No noticeable effect on the wave. I'm probably going to open up the transition a bit with some additional tube this winter so it's not a straight 90Degree bend.
  7. Thanks, I think oval and bigger would have been better but this is what I had so hopefully it works, I'm slightly concerned about the straight 90 and no curvature to the exit, but it seems to work for everyone else lol I think the ideal would be to do a merge collector instead of the 90 degree exit (like you did on yours, which is awesome by the way) and I may do that at some point if I'm not happy with this one.
  8. I've been meaning to make this for a while but finally got to it yesterday. I Started with 2 mandrel bent stainless 90's (available on amazon, or summit etc) and 1 12" section of 3" Stainless tube (i had it in the shop, but also available at amazon or summit etc) Oddly enough the mandrels were a Perfect fit even before any trimming so all I had to do was square the ends and weld them together. Once welded I notched the tube for the downpipe and marked where it would go. Cut that out with a plasma and then used a die grinder to clean it up. This could also easily be done with a dremel. For the downpipe I slash cut it and then put it in a vise to taper the end to hopefully avoid as much spray as possible. Then it was welded up and test fit: From there I cut some stainless flanges: The original plan was to do it without any couplers, just bolt it on. However once I started that process it's damn near impossible to get the screw holes aligned and the angles correct so I caved and just sliced the ends off and put couplers on. I can't fit my boat in my shop and I was too lazy to drag a welder out into the driveway, otherwise I would have just put it together and tacked it on the boat to fit. This picture is before cleanup and squaring etc. I decided to have to tubes extend into the factory exhaust as it's a tight fit and I think it will add some support and take some stress off the screw holes. Now I just need to add a support to the swim deck mount and I'll be good to go! That will pull the angle up a bit, as it sits it's sagging a bit under it's own weight in the silicone couplers. Added a mount to the swim deck this afternoon and cleaned everything up a bit. Total cost ~100 + roughly 2 hours of my time.
  9. Ah that makes a lot more sense! Looks great
  10. Looks great, am I missing something or are the ports not part of the box? They look like they are external to the sub enclosure?
  11. When I wired my boat I started from scratch. I wanted minimal switches and I've never liked the separate stereo and acc switches in most boats so I decided to go without. Also don't like anything I can leave on and kill my battery, I'm a dumbass and it will happen. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Fast forward to some real usage and it is a PITA when you kill the boat and switch the key to ACC and the stereo turns off and the bluetooth has to reconnect. To fix this problem I installed a delay relay. Basically all it does is delay the power off to the stereo by a set amount of time. 3 seconds works well for my case but it's infintely variable. To do this you only need 1 part: The PAC TR-7 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J22BO at 10.95 it's a helluva deal. It's mostly used in car audio for bypassing ebrake and park requirements, but it works really well for this. You'll need to find 2 wires in your harness: The Constant Hot to the stereo (usually yellow) The switched Hot to the stereo (usually red) From here i followed a guide I found online for programming these things as they are a bit of a PITA to program. The PAC TR7 relay only requires 4 wires to be connected for time delay functionality, Black, Red, Green, and Blue.Go ahead and connect the Black wire to ground of the stereo harness (black wire) and tape it with electrical tape. Wire the Red wire of the relay to the constant +12V of the stereo harness (yellow wire). Don't tape up the +12V constant wire yet as we will use it for programming.Before you connect the other two wires, green and blue, we need to program the relay so it knows what to do. To program the relay, you will tap the green wire to the red +12V wire. On the instructions, delayed turnoff is function #6.Programming:1. Unplug the harness from the relay. Slide the programming switch to "on". Connect the harness again. The instructions say to "pulse" the trigger wire, this just means to momentarily connect it to the 12V wire. I simply tapped the wires together when I did my programming.2. To select feature #6, "pulse" the trigger wire 6 times. Wait 3 seconds and the relay will flash its LED 6 times to confirm. If the LED blinks more or less times than desired, start over with step 1.3. Once feature #6 was confirmed with the LED blinks, we need to set the time. Program the minutes. The LED will blink once to indicate minute programming. Pulse the trigger 1 time to start the timer programming. For the stereo delayed turn off, you will want this to be 0, so don't pulse the trigger wire. Wait 3 seconds and the relay will move on.4. Program the seconds for the "tens digit". The LED will blink twice indicating the tens digit programming. Pulse the trigger wire once to start the tens digit programming. Again, you will want this to be 0, so don't pulse the trigger wire. Wait 3 seconds and the relay will move on.5. Program the seconds in the "ones digit". I think 3 is a good number from my experience. I tried 5 and it was way too long, 2 seconds may be too short. Pulse the trigger wire once to start the programming. Pulse the trigger wire 3 times to set the relay to 3 seconds. After waiting 3 seconds, the relay will blink the LED 3 times indicating 3 seconds was programmed.6. The LED of the relay will flash 4 times indicating that the timer is finished being programmed. Then the relay will flash for 3 seconds indicating that all options or timers have been programmed.7. After the relay has finished flashing in step 6, slide the programming switch to the off position. Note: If you make a mistake during programming, you will need to start over from step 1.Finishing the wiring:Once the relay has been programmed successfully, you can tape up the +12V constant wire.For the last 2 wires, you will need to cut the Red wire in the stereo harness.The Blue wire connects to the stereo side of the red wire you just cut.The green wire connects to the boat side of the red wire you just cut. And Boom, now there stereo stays on when you turn the key off for the time you selected. No more bluetooth cutout, music never stops when switching or cranking which is awesome. Now you can swap that stupid Stereo switch for another ballast switch!
  12. I decided I wanted to make a surf board. I was bored and thought it would be a fun thing to make. I started with a glued up walnut slab that I already had (My company makes wood countertops) Since I have virtually no knowledge of surfboard design I winged it and drew it up in CAD after a little research. I then threw it on the CNC and got to cutting. All this could be relatively easily shaped by hand as there aren't a lot of curves, would just be a little more time consuming. Made a rough cut and then switched to ball nose and made a final pass. Walnut sands pretty easily so I didn't bother going super fine on the cut as the cut marks sand out easily. For a harder or more close grained wood you can step down the stepover on the bit and get an almost smooth surface, it just takes a lot longer. From there it's a bunch of sanding. A bunch of sanding . A little epoxy to fill any cracks and imperfections: I then epoxied the whole things with a light layer to help with sealing. As a first go I didn't want to go to the trouble to glass it. From there I CNC'ed out for a center fin (board is too shallow for the side fins using these Futures fin boxes) Then sprayed with a Urethane clear and tossed on some grip: First test was fairly successful, it's a little slow but very stable and easy to ride!
  13. Curious as well, huge thanks for putting all this effort in. I'd like to give the bluetooth setup a go if you have the code and a parts list.
  14. Looks great! What did it run to have them do it if you don't mind my asking?
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