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  • Replace Ballast Pump Impellers


    Oldyella66
    • Year: 2005 Brand: Mastercraft Model / Trim: X10 Device Type : Other Surf Device Material: (unspecified) Control: Unspecified Cost: $0-$249 Ballast Modifications: Pump(s) DIY or Professional Install: I installed it / created it Sound Project Components: Other Platform Type: Other Engine Type: MCX Material used: (unspecified)
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    Decided that for piece of mind I should replace the impellers in my ballast pumps.  PO said that one didn't fill as fast as others, but never checked the impellers. 

    Figured I would snap some pics along the way.  I also don't think I've seen any posts showing the steps.  For consistency with my last post on a scale of "Anyone Can Do This" (1) to "Pay Someone Else" (10)... This project is a "1" very quick and easy.  Uses only tools that everyone should have around the house. Standard screwdriver, and possibly Philips screwdriver.   I also used a mechanics pick, but only because it was already in the boat with me (not everyone would have one of those).

    First locate your ballast pumps.  On my Mastercraft X10 they are at the mounted on the transom in front of the engine. There are also 3 in my boat.  One was mounted upside down and had to be removed to get to the impeller. This boat also has factory ballast.

    Here is the new impeller.  It came with the impeller, lube, and an O-ring. About $27 from Amazon.

    IMG_20201018_102515.JPG.f2ed86d3516dc2f3292dcb09c0553934.JPG

    First step, take the cap off the impeller housing.  3 standard screws.

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    Pull the old impeller out, check the impeller and the housing for defects.

    IMG_20201018_102645.JPG.472658bb4fea695d032a045c809635c2.JPG

    Here is my example bad one.  The bites out of the blades will reduce the effectiveness of the pump in one direction for sure.

    The other two were in good shape.

    IMG_20201018_103215.JPG.f4fb10829abe32a459f9e73755ed255a.JPG

    Pull the old O-ring,  Lube up the new one and put it back in the same place. The lube helps the O-ring seal and not get pinched by things going back together.

    IMG_20201018_102651.JPG.c132c2ce6020815d68e1d2e872a84506.JPG

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    Also, use your finger to lube up the inside of the housing with a generous amount. The lube in this case it to make sure that the impeller doesn't run completely dry the first time it is turned on.  Typically the water will provide enough lube.

    Then put the new impeller back in.  I tried to put it back in the same direction it came out, but since these are reversible, I don't think it matters.

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    Put the cap back on.

    IMG_20201018_102943.JPG.70cd8b111a7da843805cb1fc0a2ead8d.JPG

    5-10 minute project and keep those ballast pumps moving the most water possible.

    IMG_20201018_102757.JPG

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    I would highly advise that you take the time to remount the pumps 180* so the pump head is down and motor is up. Over time, water will seep past the shaft seal and runs out the motor and bearings. One way to see if this is happening, is to run the pump with the impeller out. Motor should be near dead quite. The louder the pump growls, the worse it is. 

    In doing the above, you end up reversing the flow direction. Easy fix is to de-pin one of the connectors, and swap the pins. This reverses the polarity, thus putting the flow rate back in check. 

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