CUCV
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@berndtmj We need to work on taking more pics of the wave... but here are a few.
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Thanks @GaryH Below is a link to a great build thread with circuit plan for a 2 actuator system that you could use for just tabs.
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The boat and mods are definitely dog approve, they love the new step too. We have 2 Goldens and they hung with me on the couple all nighters to complete the mods. One night around 11pm I had the garage door open, a skunk walked by the door and the puppy went after it, it sprayed, filling the barn with the nasty odor, that was a very long night. When I drew it up I went back and forth on the height of the thruster vanes especially with the shorter tabs. CAD said it would clear the waterline coming off the bottom of the hull with my desired retracted angle. (I'm trying to balance short and long tabs with the same setup and my limiting factor is the platform bracket) When I first installed the short tabs, I was like,"this won't work" and almost cut back the leading edge of the thruster to get more clearance. So the very first test was... do I get spray off the retracted tabs at various speeds and I don't. I can see where the scaring is coming from and how the water flows over/around the platform. I can remove the scar with increased yaw from the gate or increased roll from draining off side ballast and the platform goes deeper in the water on the surf side. When I increase yaw to remove it, I loose push. When I remove offside Ballast I loose height. Super cool to make these changes on the fly and to see and feel the feedback immediately. With the Bluetooth app in the test stage, the actuators are just named M1, M2, M3 and M4, this has made it easy to communicate with my son which actuator to move.
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Tell me about it!!! Endless combinations! As stated earlier I felt I needed more bow weight. I got the new bag to put in the isle but forgot to buy a fitting to run it in line with the V bag. So I just filled the isle bag with about 500lbs. With taps all the way down I couldn't get the bow to come down with Taps even at 1. I added 500lbs of lead on top of the seat as far forward as possible and what a change it made. The swim platform has been 6" below water when ballasted all summer with this setup it's near the surface. Engine rpms dropped and the boat is more drivable with gate deployed.
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I'll know know more after I try the long tabs alone. Right now it's been fun having both, we can dial in a nice wave with evenly weighted ballast and 2-10 people in the boat sitting where ever they want. With my experience thus far, if I only had one it would be the tabs. Adding gates from a cost perspective is mostly about the cost of the actuators which isn't all that bad. It's a bit hard for me to quantify the value vs. the time spent to do both for the first time. I was actually working towards a much more elaborate design, which took a bunch of time, but simplified it to this to get it in the water. When it comes to the install time, I already had all the tools out so there is efficiency in increased quantity. I drilled 50 some odd holes below waterline for this system. 7 screws broke off flush during the install (including Lenco OEM screws), which was super frustrating. I bought some screws on Amazon with a different thread pitch and didn't break a single one.
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I long pondered building a tab or gate style surf system and in the end figured why not build both. I felt the ability to independently control the pitch, roll and yaw would help me create the best possible wave. Initially I thought I was going to go with just a thruster style tab system so I had already drawn them up. When going to the tab and gate system I had to reduce the length of the tabs to make it work. Since I had the original tabs drawn up I figured I might as well make them at the same time and test the different designs. The .125" stainless tabs and gates were cut on a waterjet. The hinges are .090" piano hinge from McMaster cut to length and welded on the end. I used 102F Lenco actuators on the gates and they have 60 degrees range of motion. They actuate thru the full range in a very similar amount of time as the 101XDS actuators used on the tabs. The tab extend 12 degrees and retract 25 degrees. ( I would have set them up to extend more for the short tab but I was trying to balance using one setup for both short and long tabs.) The hinges on the tabs cross a step in the hull so I cut a wedge out of aluminum flat bar to fill the gap. The Arduino controls are in the initial stages of development and just function enough to control the gates and tabs on a bluetooth app but the GPS is not triggering functions. Throughout initial testing I have been keeping the boat evenly weighted. In the Bow I have a W711 V bag but only feel I'm getting 250 lbs in it. I have W712 Enzo sacs in the rear and feel I'm getting 1150 maybe 1200lbs in each of them. Previously I surfed the boat listed. Initially with only one rear bag, then added in bow bag, then added DIY suck gate(s) then an offside bag. I never got to the point where I got a clean wave evenly weighted. First test was evenly weighted, gate fully deployed. I had similar results that I had with the suck gate, a wave that wasn't clean and that I didn't want to surf. I believe that a taller gate and/or more bow weight could help the wave in this configuration. 2nd test was evenly weighted, tab fully deployed. Very surfable wave that was clean on the back end but the lip of the front end of the wave had a dirty lip. I can see the dirty lip was coming from the swim platform. Running listed in the past, the surf side corner of my large OEM swim platform was way under water and not disturbing the wave. By draining off side weight I could clean up the lip and maintain push with a bit of reduction height. 3rd test was evenly weighted, tabs and gates fully deployed. The wave looked beautiful but the front end of the wave lacked a defined lip on the front end and the wave lacked push. We currently surf the wave with the tab fully deployed and the gate 70% extended. This the point were the front end of the lip gets a touch dirty but is defined. I did run a test listed with tab fully deployed. Obviously the wave height was reduced but surfed a super long wave at 13mph. I did add in gate but don't recall it making a significant difference either way. I also tried it with the tab retracted and gate deployed but all I can remember was the tab wave was better. Future tests: I ordered a W707 bag to try more bow weight. Remove the small tabs and gates and install the larger thruster style tabs. Make larger plain tabs without the thrusters to get more roll and leave the yaw to the gates. Make a quick trimmed down swim platform for testing purposes but we like our large swim platform and I know I can get rid of the wave scaring by getting more roll. I might go so far as to scribe in a bracket on the transom so I can make taller gates. I feel the gates are to low, but if I can get more roll from bigger tabs this may not be necessary.
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What diameter tent pole did you use and how long is it?
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Bummer to hear about the stuck valve. How many gallons are you bringing on board with the 3 big pumps?
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The winch relays are a fantastic value for the heavy lifting they can do. A nice relay solution between 30/40 amp and 250+amp winch relays eludes me. If someone comes across something, please do share.
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I was looking to reduce my ballast fill time from 9min 15sec to under 5 min. My existing setup had 2 Kings filling port and starboard and a Puppy filling the bow bag. The Talulah High flow pump with it's 30GPH-250lbs/min rating seemed like it would be just the ticket. I was going to buy two of them but decided to buy one to run to the port bag and run both Kings to the starboard bag. The mfg recommends using 1-1/2" suction hose which is definitely harder to work with than the 1" hose I used on the Kings and Puppy. I had an extra 1" thru hull (rated at 2200GPH)and ball valve in the shop so I figured I would give that a go instead of buying a new 1-1/2" thru hull and could always upgrade if required. I have Enzo sacs in my boat and the ports aren't 1-1/2", I thought about using a "Y" fitting and stepping the 1-1/2" hose down to 2X 1" hoses then just figured I'd give it a go just stepping down to a single 1" hose before going into the bags. The mfg recommends a 50amp fuse so I installed a resettable one I found on Amazon and decided to run a cheap winch solenoid relay (shown in the pics.) As soon as I pulled the relay out of the box I knew it would give me issues as the switching contacts were loose. The relay worked well to fill but required some jiggling to drain until I got the second solenoid relay, (link shown below.) I got all my pipe and hose fittings from Mcmaster.com as I struggled to find a single other online suppliers with all the fittings in stock that I needed. I really liked the white Everbilt fitting a friend gave me from his pool fitting collection, unfortunately my local Home Depot was sold out of all pool fittings at the time of the build. The pump is a beast and works awesome! My fill time is under 5 minutes and I'm not seeing any sizeable increase in fill time over expectations due the the inlet and outlet reduced diameters. https://cdn.wakemakers.com/skin/frontend/enterprise/wm/favicon.ico Johnson Talulah High Flow Reversible Ballast Pump (250lbs/min) WWW.WAKEMAKERS.COM https://cdn.wakemakers.com/skin/frontend/enterprise/wm/favicon.ico WakeMAKERS Bronze Mushroom Thru-Hull Intake WWW.WAKEMAKERS.COM https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FFBGGLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088641WQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T1XMYK7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Suction Water Hose 1-1/2" ID, 1-13/16" OD, Clear 5796K13 High-Pressure Plastic Pipe Fitting for WaterStraight Reducer, 1-1/2 Barbed Male x 1 Barbed Male48315K75 High-Pressure Plastic Pipe Fitting for WaterStraight Adapter, 1-1/2 Barbed Male x 1-1/2 NPT Female48315K113 High-Pressure Plastic Pipe Fitting for Water90 Degree Elbow, 1-1/2 Barbed Male x NPT Female48315K79
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Indmar Sea Strainer Pro with Flush Connector Installation
CUCV posted a project in Quick Fix / Small Projects
My Tige 22v didn't have a Sea Strainer and I've been hearing so many great things about the Indmar Sea Strainer with Flush Connector for ease of winterization. They run about $105 and I ordered one on Black Friday at a discount without much though that it would be an involve install. I've been trying to trouble shoot some electrical stuff so I figured I may as well install it so I can run the boat on a hose. I quickly realized that my boat also doesn't have a seacock that is required to use the flush connector and I had very little room to do the install of the Sea Strainer. The inlet of the Sea Strainer is 90 degrees to the flow and made it even more difficult to find room to install in the tight space. I wish they offered it in an inline configuration. I was able to fit it in by moving a ballast pump and a 90 degree fitting with very little hose between fittings. As for a seacock I found a piece of rubber roofing cut to fit in between halves of the Sea Strainer works well to stop the flow of water out the inlet so you can run on a hose. -
Not sure but may be a good idea to put some Fluid Film in that plastic bag with the slag too.
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berndtmj, great find on the bags. I will have to check out the POP bags as well. Sonic, great tip on the plasma slag, I'll have to check with a friend who has a large plasma table.
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Looks sharp! Sweet upgrade.
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Looks great, do you have a link to where you got the material?
