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  4. DoneSentit69 DoneSentit69 joined the community
  5. freeheel4life
    Dang it this is a great post. Ive only done clutch pack replacements and seals on the few Ive had apart. Thanks for all this info!! I use Harbor Marine out of Everett WA and they have been great for trans and Vdrive parts.
  6. Wylie_Tunes
    I had a center console in last fall, that had 2 t-top tubes blown out like that.
  7. freeheel4life
    Looks great. Not to be that guy but I have two questions that totally derail your thread. First, what the story with the Sanger barefooter in the background?? Also is that a 69ish Chevelle/Malibu in the other building?? Sorry, I tend to look around at the rest of the shop(s).
  8. freeheel4life
    This is how I free a very stubborn coupler. Hopefully it helps someone trying to convert to dripless packing. This is on an older Malibu, but principle is the same on most Vdrive and DDs. Some of your older Centurys use different methods to key/index the shaft, so be sure to uncouple shaft and figure out how the shaft is joined to coupler. In this case you have to remove the nut(1 1/16" socket on 1" shafts)inside the coupler and loosen the set screws, there are two hex key/allen heads in the coupler. Next I use some long 3/8" bolts with no shoulders and a socket to preload the living crap out of the shaft. We have a sweet slide hammer at the shop that was there before I started. I have searched the web for one just like it to no avail, but this is the closest I can find(If anyone wants to machine a better one I have some ideas) https://www.generalpropeller.com/shaft-puller Thread the puller on and slide hammer away. In this case this STILL wouldnt free the coupler. SO, heat to the nibral/brass coupler while your buddy/wife/kiddo slowly turns the shaft and occasionally puts some work into the slide hammer and bingo, shaft pops right out of coupler. Most are a lot easier but if youve got one that fights you I hope this helps.
  9. Hyperryd
    That tube blow out is crazy. Glad you got it fixed. A SAN just doesn’t look right with any tower other than an FCT. Nice job!
  10. jstowe jstowe joined the community
  11. Dale974
    Yes, it worked great, alarm even sounds when i'm under 3ft going thru the channel. Although the temps come from under the dash for the air temp and the sea temp comes thru the paddle wheel on my VLX. So i had to replace the paddle wheel to fix the sea temp, although i feel like one could splice in an air temp gauge, (same as air temp on some of the older boats) into the wires on the paddle wheel.
  12. freeheel4life
    Looks damn good. Nice work. Love the added heater pads.
  13. Brit_hunsicker
    My yearly project on my boat this year was pulling the windshield and tower off and refinishing them. The factory paint was faded and chipping so I figured it was time for a makeover. When I bought the boat in 2015 this split was in the tower. The previous owner told me they had the tower folded down outside when it rained and water got inside the pipe and then froze and burst. All I can say is that must have been one heavy rain because that would have taken a lot of water to burst in this spot of the tower. I’m not putting the bimini back on so all of these holes will need to be filled while the split in the tower is getting fixed. This tinting was done before the 2016 season and held up well, but will be redone while I have the frame off for powdercoat. Being able to tint the windshield out of the frame will eliminate anywhere you can see the edge of the tint. This is what the gasket looks like between the windshield and the gel coat. I purchased new gasket material from Nautique Parts. Frame has been sandblasted and powder coated. Windshield has been tinted 5% again. Yes this tint is dark and no you can’t see at night, but damn does it look good. “This sticker is dangerous and inconvenient, but I do love Fig Newtons” 😂 Got a steal on these flight clips so I will have them blasted and powder coated. Will be a nice factory look with the OEM racks back on it. New stainless cup holders and windshield decals. I actually like the look of these boats without the tower. Of course much more feasible for my sport of choice to have the tower, but it’s a very clean and sleek look without. I am amazed at how well this blowout in the tower looks after some welding and grinding. Freshly sand blasted. Decided to do a coat of primer and then sand before powder coat to ensure a silky smooth finish. The 20 year old aluminum was showing its age. Always wanted to run the wires through the tower instead of zip tied around the outside. Definitely recommend for a clean hidden look.
  14. FlyGuy FlyGuy joined the community
  15. Number9
    Wow. That's a modern look! Love it. Thanks for sharing this
  16. Brit_hunsicker
    Just got the interior put back together on my buddy TJ’s 2001 SAN. This has been a project I’ve been doing for him since I have the boat stored in my building for the winter. The upholstery work has been done by a small local seamstress that I’ve used for all my projects. She does great work at a fair price as long as you’re willing to give her plenty of time! This is what we started with First pieces I took to get done and she accidentally flip flopped the colors This looks a lot better New patch on top, original patch on bottom Got heating elements for the captains chair and passenger seat Had her add some foam to these front pieces to correct the loose fitting issue Finished product all put together. Turned out great!
  17. joshl joshl joined the community
  18. Midnight_Militia Midnight_Militia joined the community
  19. Champ Sevens Champ Sevens joined the community
  20. Brit_hunsicker
    The electric brakes work great. I do not need or notice them much now because I have 3/4 ton diesel. On the rare occasion I do pull with a half ton that has a hook up for trailer brakes they come in handy! I fought wiring issues for a while because I ran out of wire on the install at the very end and had to use some cheap wire to fill in, but eventually that all gave way within a couple years and I replaced with good wire.
  21. Earlier
  22. ryan
    Strong work on the fit and finish on this. How are the electric brakes holding up? That can be handy in the hills for sure since surge brakes can "ride" the brakes too often
  23. Rugger
    I rebuilt a trailer years ago for an 87 Malibu. Did not come out as nice as yours. Looks great! nice work
  24. Rugger
    Looks great. Love when the older boats look cherry. Pride of ownership. I’m a fan
  25. Brit_hunsicker
    Thanks John! I plan on tackling the floor project next winter. Depending on how mine turns out, that will likely follow on TJ’s as well. I will do all the prep work myself and then take it to Dek Designs for them to measure, cut and install.
  26. Hyperryd
    They both look great! Are you staying with carpet on the floor or is that down the road? I know it’s a big project with the raw fiberglass.
  27. Brit_hunsicker
    Here is my rebuild from several years ago on my trailer. This trailer was in pretty bad shape when I bought the boat, but cleaned up real nice! One bunk was broke when I bought the boat and one of the pieces on the inner fender was loose as well. The trailer was obviously red to begin with and matched the boat, so I’m not sure why someone had rattle canned it black? This is the old surge brake set up that I tore out. New electric brakes. I did this because, at the time, I had a 1/2 ton pick up and really felt like my surge brakes were not working well enough. These work great, but I foresee issues down the road possibly with water and getting rusty. Who knows, that seems to be a problem with all boat trailers though... My contraption for bending the new bunks Freshly sand blasted In the paint booth. Sure is convenient having friends in the right trades! Took all the guts out of the surge coupler. Used like that for a couple years and then ended up putting a bull dog coupler on once this old surge set up wore out. Getting ready to hit it with some love! New LED lights all around. Boiling water to soften up the new bunks. And a perfect match! We actually matched this color with a flashlight during a thunderstorm while on the boat lift. I’d say we got pretty lucky!
  28. Brit_hunsicker
    Wanted to start a thread of SeaDek installs on the OG Super Air Nautique’s. I will post several boats that I know of that have been done by Dek Designs in Topeka, KS. My personal boat is the red one and I was the first to use Dek Designs for an OG Nautique. This company is a duo between Derek and his brother Shane. Shane’s business (Dynamarine Performance Boats) is building air boats that mostly get shipped to the Southern states, he also has a contract with the USCG to build their ice/search and rescue air boats. All the boats they build get custom fitted with SeaDek. Boat: 2001 Super Air Nautique cut and installed by Dek Designs This one is my buddies boat that has been a winter project for me. The drivers side gunnel piece will get remade, due to a spacing issue. We assumed the pieces were going to be identical to mine, but it turns out they weren’t and a lot of it was due to tower placement. Also the spacing between the front light and lifting ring was not the same as mine. Most of the pieces had to be remeasured. I don’t think any boat of this era was identical to one another. They make them in a much more controlled environment now. The last picture is matching the SeaDek to new vinyl, which will get posted in another thread. Boat: 2001 Super Air Nautique cut and installed by Dek Designs Here is another boat from Spencer Cale in California. This boat is looking really good all around. He called Dek Designs and they worked with him to change up a few things. Boat: 2001 Super Air Nautique cut by Dek Designs installed by Spencer And another from Rusty Barras in Louisiana. You can see this boat has a different tower then the other 3 and how he radiused around it. Turned out great! Boat: 2001 Super Air Nautique cut by Dek Designs installed by Rusty
  29. 1967Goat 1967Goat joined the community
  30. Brit_hunsicker Brit_hunsicker changed their profile photo
  31. Brit_hunsicker Brit_hunsicker joined the community
  32. Ptagher Ptagher joined the community
  33. freeheel4life
    Super cool project. So jealous you have the ability to cnc what you want. That would be a game changer for sure!! Whole lot nicer than hole saws, mini air saws, grinder, drill and index, die grinders etc. Always nice to see a mod that looks factory installed.
  34. Rugger started following Qi Wireless Charger
  35. Rugger
    Insane project. Thanks for sharing. This will be a great project for all brands here, not just Malibus.
  36. Mbski
    Wow good work. So jealous of you guys and your electrical know how! Am going to learn!!
  37. D_Turner started following Qi Wireless Charger
  38. D_Turner
    After purchase of my Malibu VLX, I quickly realized how much I would like a wireless charger in the Sport Dash phone holder. The phone holder worked great and held the phone where it was easy to see and use. The downside was cords hanging down around your knee or hands as you were moving around the boat. So the winter of 2017-2018 I set out to build myself one. I expected sooner or later Malibu would do something similar and for 2019 they released a wireless charging option that is basically just like mine. So this buildup may not be the best option for a Malibu anymore, but it might provide some inspiration into a buildup for other boats. So here is the buildup, start to finish with LOTS of pictures. It is basically a copy and paste from my post last year on The Malibu Crew. This build performed flawlessly during the entire 2018 summer season. ------------------------------------ In the perfect world, I would of started from a totally new dash I designed as there are a few things not ideal with the thickness and placement of some things in the stock dash metal housing. However, I wanted to keep the stock look without going through the trouble of making an entire new dash and do the plating and brushed finish of the stock piece. So to eliminate the steps of replicating that, I decided to purchase an extra sport dash from Malibu parts for modification. I did this so I could just do a total swap out of the dash. If the prototype didn't work or charging technology changes greatly over the next few years I will always have my stock dash to throw back in. So upon getting a new dash from Malibu, I measured everything up and modeled everything in CAD. Upon drawing all of it up, I realized due to the thickness of the aluminum stock dash where the pad and coil were going I only had 0.150" of thickness to work with. I would of loved to recess the Seadek flush to the top surface, but that was not possible with a 5mm pad thickness. So, the Seadek was going to be above the stock dash surface. This presented a minor problem of the left moving 'jaw' would hit the protruding Seadek pad if it closed to the full amount. Who has a phone that is that small anymore that you need the full slide of that stock Malibu jaw? I don't know of a phone that small.....maybe an iPod? Who uses those anymore? So I decided to make a new sliding back plate that would be wider and stop the left moving jaw just a few thousands from the Seadek pad. This still allows you to hold a phone several hundred thousandths narrower than an iPhone X. I will have to look back at my model to see exact numbers, but it will hold anything standard from iPhone 6 and up. This is the new sliding back versus stock back piece. The slot is for the wire to pass through from the coil and allow for sliding of the part. This is the back of the pieces. I machined the slots for the springs just for purposes of prototyping and test fitting. I had no intentions of sticking with the springs due to machine work you will see later. Any future part would not have the spring slots machined as they are useless upon final assembly.  I ended up sandblasting the machined back as it does show thru the slots from the front side so to knock down on the noticable 'shine' I sandblasted it. I also coated all bare aluminum with Everbrite which is supposed to protect bare aluminum in marine applications. We will see how it does. This is the development board I started from. I have since found a different one that I wish I started with as it would of eliminated a voltage convertor you will see later. I desoldered the coil from this board and incorporated the coil into the dash as you will see. The circuit board goes into a water tight box. Machine work taking place on the stock dash Here is the stock dash after machining modifications. I created a recess for the Seadek pad. I also left a pad for the coil to be industrial epoxied to. Charging coil wired up Charging coil in its pocket The back fully assembled. Since I was loosing the ability to use the stock springs for the tensioning, I used a gas cylinder. Since I was machining the stock dash and new sliding back, I did add two holes so I went with a shorter cylinder than he used and also mounted parallel to the movement of the sliding arm. The next issue was trying to mount the circuit board somewhere. I went to my boat in storage back in January '18 and looked for a decent place to mount the circuit board box. The box I was using is overkill and larger than a 'production' type box would be, but much easier for me to deal with working on my desk. There was really no good place(easy) to mount the box without drilling holes or something so I decided to make a backing plate to mount the circuit board box to. This way the dash would install exactly as the stock dash does. You would install the 4 washer/nuts as stock, then I would have .500" spacers that would space a backing plate above the gas cylinder, then you install 4 more locking nuts and it is basically an all self contained piece. Absolutely nothing stock on the boat is modified to mount it this way. No holes drilled in the boat anywhere, etc. I cut some 1.75" studs to replace the stock shorter studs in the stock dash to allow for the 0.500" spacers and backing plate + extra nut.  Backing plate being machined Backing plate finished, sandblasted, and coated. The square hole is for the coil wire to pass through. The round hole is for the sport knob wire to pass through. Circuit board box mounted to backing plate. The box as mentioned above is overkill, but it made for working in much easier. I don't have a picture of it, but the board was actually mounted to a piece of lexan cut to fit the inside of box to limit movement, wiring cleaned up, and foam placed to stop any vertical movement.  As I may of mentioned above, I kinda wished I had started from a different circuit board, but I didn't see it until way late in the project. It is not a big deal other than I had to add a 12V to 19V convertor as the circuit board requires 19V. Another application I could of used is 12V all the way through. I may purchase one of these sometime to tinker with. So here is the circuit board box and the wiring. Some of this wiring was made longer than needed while I prototyped on my desk. It can be shortened, but it is all hidden anyway under your dash. This shows the backing plate spaced above the gas cylinder to not interfere there. You can also see the longer studs and .500" spacers. Wireless chargers use magnetic fields to transfer power. Metal surfaces do not allow for the magnetic field to pass through which is why I had to place the coil on the topside of the aluminum dash and required all the work above. To cover this coil, I decided on Seadek. I got a test piece and verified it did not interfere with the magnetic field at all. So I set out to get some custom Seadek made. This turned into a 6 week ordeal which I finally got mostly what I wanted. I requested 5mm single color storm gray Seadek. The company I was dealing with does outstanding work, but they have been SUPER busy lately so it took them forever to get to my project. After checking up on the project, I got an email saying they didn't have 5mm storm gray instock so they decided to use 6mm storm gray over black. This makes the pad .040" thicker than I was expecting. Not a factor in functionality, but aesthetically I would of rather had the 5mm single color. You can barely see the black layer at the edge but not very noticeable especially installed and in the sun. The laser engraving turned out perfect. So here is the Seadek installed. It matches fairly well. Indoor lighting affects the matching depending on the light. Sunlight, it is pretty dang close. Installation in the boat. All went well other than I had to grind a little on my backing plate in the top corners near the stud as there is not a ton of room between the stud and the fiberglass. 5 minute fix and it went right in.  Here is the under side of dash. There is plenty of 12V and ground buses/terminals within inches of the dash so electrical hookup is a piece of cake. I used a 2 amp fast blow fuse to the 12V terminal so it is protected from drawing anything big. Should never draw much more than 1amp. Here are a couple pics of the finished(pretty) side installed in the boat. ------------------------------------------------ I have a second version where I used a different circuit board and I am also attempting to slice the seadeck pad in half with a hot wire cutter to allow the pad to sit more flush. I will update if I get that version wrapped up soon.
  39. D_Turner
    Updated the project with the LCD box (above)
  40. Corbyn VanBrunt
    This is genius. Now to put something similar to all the drain points!! The new I/Os at the boat show have a 1 lever pull and drain setup. I saw it on a Volvo Penta but salesman says it is industry wide. You can use your boat anytime of the year with a setup like that. This fancy valve will make things much easier though. I already have mine in order just hours after I read this. Thanks for sharing!!
  41. Fire Mike
    That is an impressive refurb. When you took the engine out to clean it up, where did you separate it? Was the process difficult? I am doing to some extensive fiberglass work to the back corner of my boat and this would be a good time to clean up the engine. It would also make working back there easier. Thanks
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