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  1. Today
  2. Had a light boat and wave was marginal at best. The board was a bit sluggish on speed but cut like a dream. Lots of ideas for the next one.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Wow that’s incredible work That jimmy board is legit! Thanks for posting it. Nothing beats handcrafted.
  5. I’ve been making longboards for awhile so when it came time to make a wakesurf board- I basically made a big version of a longboard. Several renditions later, I’ve leared a lot. The boards have 4 layers Baltic Burch glued together with tightbond 3. My early boards had 4 hollow chambers- my latest “Jimi” board is foam core with FCS surf boxes. Sorry I don’t have pictures of the press when I shape the nose and hold everything together. “Jimi” was hand stenciled and measures 55” long and 20” wide. Pad kit and fins are from amazon. The smaller board was my first one. It measures 49”- basically a skimmer. The skim board is a good kids board but the shape I’ve discovered is no good for real surfing. “Jimi”, however, rips!! Slight shape and flat tail provides a ton of push and is very responsive! My favorite board for sure. I have “legit purchased” boards too.... basically to please my kids so they don’t have to always ride a board that dad made. Oh- it also fits in the wakeboard racks and the thick boards do not- so that’s a plus.
  6. Last week
  7. When I wired my boat I started from scratch. I wanted minimal switches and I've never liked the separate stereo and acc switches in most boats so I decided to go without. Also don't like anything I can leave on and kill my battery, I'm a dumbass and it will happen. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Fast forward to some real usage and it is a PITA when you kill the boat and switch the key to ACC and the stereo turns off and the bluetooth has to reconnect. To fix this problem I installed a delay relay. Basically all it does is delay the power off to the stereo by a set amount of time. 3 seconds works well for my case but it's infintely variable. To do this you only need 1 part: The PAC TR-7 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J22BO at 10.95 it's a helluva deal. It's mostly used in car audio for bypassing ebrake and park requirements, but it works really well for this. You'll need to find 2 wires in your harness: The Constant Hot to the stereo (usually yellow) The switched Hot to the stereo (usually red) From here i followed a guide I found online for programming these things as they are a bit of a PITA to program. The PAC TR7 relay only requires 4 wires to be connected for time delay functionality, Black, Red, Green, and Blue.Go ahead and connect the Black wire to ground of the stereo harness (black wire) and tape it with electrical tape. Wire the Red wire of the relay to the constant +12V of the stereo harness (yellow wire). Don't tape up the +12V constant wire yet as we will use it for programming.Before you connect the other two wires, green and blue, we need to program the relay so it knows what to do. To program the relay, you will tap the green wire to the red +12V wire. On the instructions, delayed turnoff is function #6.Programming:1. Unplug the harness from the relay. Slide the programming switch to "on". Connect the harness again. The instructions say to "pulse" the trigger wire, this just means to momentarily connect it to the 12V wire. I simply tapped the wires together when I did my programming.2. To select feature #6, "pulse" the trigger wire 6 times. Wait 3 seconds and the relay will flash its LED 6 times to confirm. If the LED blinks more or less times than desired, start over with step 1.3. Once feature #6 was confirmed with the LED blinks, we need to set the time. Program the minutes. The LED will blink once to indicate minute programming. Pulse the trigger 1 time to start the timer programming. For the stereo delayed turn off, you will want this to be 0, so don't pulse the trigger wire. Wait 3 seconds and the relay will move on.4. Program the seconds for the "tens digit". The LED will blink twice indicating the tens digit programming. Pulse the trigger wire once to start the tens digit programming. Again, you will want this to be 0, so don't pulse the trigger wire. Wait 3 seconds and the relay will move on.5. Program the seconds in the "ones digit". I think 3 is a good number from my experience. I tried 5 and it was way too long, 2 seconds may be too short. Pulse the trigger wire once to start the programming. Pulse the trigger wire 3 times to set the relay to 3 seconds. After waiting 3 seconds, the relay will blink the LED 3 times indicating 3 seconds was programmed.6. The LED of the relay will flash 4 times indicating that the timer is finished being programmed. Then the relay will flash for 3 seconds indicating that all options or timers have been programmed.7. After the relay has finished flashing in step 6, slide the programming switch to the off position. Note: If you make a mistake during programming, you will need to start over from step 1.Finishing the wiring:Once the relay has been programmed successfully, you can tape up the +12V constant wire.For the last 2 wires, you will need to cut the Red wire in the stereo harness.The Blue wire connects to the stereo side of the red wire you just cut.The green wire connects to the boat side of the red wire you just cut. And Boom, now there stereo stays on when you turn the key off for the time you selected. No more bluetooth cutout, music never stops when switching or cranking which is awesome. Now you can swap that stupid Stereo switch for another ballast switch!
  8. So I want to order this pump as the savings are huge but I am not sure about the 128-3041 fitting. Its a metric female fitting. My original pump has an inverter 45° 3/8-tube fitting. The nominal female thread actually measures to be 5/8-18. When you installed the metric fitting did you have any problems? Leaks? Thanks!
  9. Earlier
  10. I love your work. I think the NSS is the most non invasive and cleanest looking surf system. Wish my hull was flat on the back, it would be a major pain to put one on mine.
  11. Way sweet! Definitely a good looking board- you just can’t beat the pride of riding something you’ve built!
  12. I’d call that money! There’s something about getting after it and coming up with your own way. Boards of all shapes, sizes and materials have been ridden.... like forever..... and worked! I’m sure it will ride awesome! I’m way more proud of the boards I’ve made than the super fragile board that cost lots of $. Display that board with pride- you’ve earned it!!
  13. Looks great! Did you notice a difference in your wave? Either way- still looks good. Nice to have your daughter help you out😂
  14. Okay- just a brief update on how the summer went. We spent about 60 hours on the water which included being caught in a downpour, a super sketchy wind storm which generated 5’ swells, and of course just hanging out. In the beginning I would check the woofer for signs of water..... but no. I never had water on the woof- even after the downpour. My take on the project is do it! I don’t regret it at all. Water was never an issue and if you’re ever worried that the sub will get wet- just throw over it- your in a boat so there should be a towel handy!
  15. Ride description and pics to come hopefully this week. Sry been super busy
  16. Nothing yet for the 226... Yes it's all stainless
  17. I have a 2007 226 any idea if they could be made to fit that boat ? Thanks. Nice work is it allstainless?
  18. it won't with the older style hull
  19. I decided I wanted to make a surf board. I was bored and thought it would be a fun thing to make. I started with a glued up walnut slab that I already had (My company makes wood countertops) Since I have virtually no knowledge of surfboard design I winged it and drew it up in CAD after a little research. I then threw it on the CNC and got to cutting. All this could be relatively easily shaped by hand as there aren't a lot of curves, would just be a little more time consuming. Made a rough cut and then switched to ball nose and made a final pass. Walnut sands pretty easily so I didn't bother going super fine on the cut as the cut marks sand out easily. For a harder or more close grained wood you can step down the stepover on the bit and get an almost smooth surface, it just takes a lot longer. From there it's a bunch of sanding. A bunch of sanding . A little epoxy to fill any cracks and imperfections: I then epoxied the whole things with a light layer to help with sealing. As a first go I didn't want to go to the trouble to glass it. From there I CNC'ed out for a center fin (board is too shallow for the side fins using these Futures fin boxes) Then sprayed with a Urethane clear and tossed on some grip: First test was fairly successful, it's a little slow but very stable and easy to ride!
  20. looks awesome mate! would anything like this work for early 210.. 2005?
  21. I started with 2x4x8 cedar from Home Depot. I copied my elevation off a ronix koal. I cut all the boards the same to the elevation pattern on the band saw. I then lined them all up and clamped them from below. I used the same ronix to “foot print” an outline and cut it with a jig saw. Using the rough board I was able to find where would be best to put my oak dowels and figure my lengths . I was able to use four. Lots of planning so the dowels would be “buried” in the board by at least 3/4”. I then used a drill press to cut the holes for the dowels and only hole depth on the outside boards. I then used the drill press to make 1 1/4 deep 3/4 diameter holes through out the entire board but not going all the way through. In theory it’s mostly hollow but because I didn’t go all the way through, it’s chambered. In theory if one hole fails and fills with water, it will only effect that hole. From here I beat the oak dowels in and glued the heck out of it with titebond 3. Once everything was sandwiched together, I clamped it and let it sit for a week. Once unclamped I used a DT automotive sander with 40 grit sand To smooth the top and bottom. Once the rough contour was done, I used a router to round the sides. From here I used smother sand paper and lighter machines. IE. went from the DT to a belt sander to a orbital to block sanding while also using lighter and lighter sand paper all the way to 600grit. I drilled my holes for the fins using the ronix as a guide. There was a lot of butt puckering at this stage. I finished with around 10 coats of poly on both sides. When poly’ing one side I put painters tape 3/4 the way down the side effectively putting 20 coats on the sides and avoiding drips. Between coats, I block sanded with 400 grit per manufacture instructions. I epoxied the anchors for the fins and used the fins themselves for alignment. After that I stuck the dakine pads down and project done. Thanks for having me. I hope I did this right.
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