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  1. Today
  2. Max 1.6

    NSS style device for 210

    You're absolutely right! As for the looks and space, NSS is the best option. There's a lot of 210 owners that were asking to get a retro kit.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Thanks. It’ll be nice not to worry about seals/bearings maintenance for a long time. Plus my boat runs smoother than ever... I didn’t realize before but it probably needed at least the strut bearings replaced for a while. But it was a little work and a few bloody knuckles in the process.
  5. Nice work Rugger. I'd like to do this to mine at some point in the future.
  6. Kojak

    GatorStep flooring upgrade

    Looks really good!
  7. Timr71

    GatorStep flooring upgrade

    Looks great! I'm about to do my own gatorstep project too. But mine will only consist of deck pieces as my interior floor isn't gel coated and it's carpeted like a traditional tournament ski boat from the 90s.
  8. Last week
  9. Rugger

    GatorStep flooring upgrade

    Looks really nice! Thanks for sharing. Makes me wish I a gelcoated floor! Mine won’t be so simple. Not a bad price for a new floor!! You must be stoked.
  10. jtryon

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    i only have it because the first iteration of this project was 2 years ago and that's what the guy i got the code at that time from said to get haha I'm still going to use the relay's--i already bought those. thanks again Jon!
  11. jonthompson

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    Perfect - then yes - it is basically identical. Just wire it the same as the L298N.. You don't need speed control (normally done with the PWM pins) but you will need to drive the PWM pins high most likely - so you'll need 2 additional wires (the ENA/PWM bridging wont work on that one i dont think.) That said - Is there a reason you're using it? I might pick up a $1 L298N vs a $50 motor board I would still plan to use automotive relays with it instead of driving the lencos directly from that board (although it says it can drive 12A, there's really no need to have it do all that work and run all that larger gauge wiring.)
  12. jtryon

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    super helpful, thanks! here are the specs on the motor driver: https://www.pololu.com/product/2507 it shows that it operates from 5.5v to 24v, but no mention of if it has a 5v regulator onboard.
  13. jonthompson

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    If you end up grabbing my code (which I am actually updating right now moving a pin around to work better with the surf band) the code will work exactly the same on your board as the nano and mega share the same pin configs - the mega just adds a ton more (which is great!) The only thing i would change is i'd use one of the mega's dedicated RX/TX for GPS instead of the pins I'm using (8/9.) This should just work out of box with my code - no changes required (GPSPort handles that magically for you.) Your motor driver looks a little confusing but your pin outs are actually the same as the L298N. You likely just bridge M1ENA -> M1PWM and M2ENA->P2PWM (we have jumpers for this.) I didn't check the specs but if you have a 5V regulator onboard that cant handle >12V make sure you disable that (The L298N does, its a jumper.) Just double check the sheet for how to correctly wire to make sure i'm not missing anything as Im not familiar with that board. Otherwise you just wire the INA/INB the same way as the L298N - you have M1INA, M1INB, M2INA, M2INB instead of IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4 on the L298N - but its the same just different names.
  14. Changed the snap in carpet out in my 2013 Malibu 20 VTX to GatorStep flooring. Nice upgrade. Thanks GatorStep for the templating help and the group buy discount. Whole project $600. Pieces came cut, just had to peel and stick. Before and after pics. Templating was the hardest part, just had to work slow and be precise.
  15. jtryon

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    I know this stuff is all relatively cheap and all, but I have a different Arduino (Mega 2560) and Motor Board than you guys are using, so the pins are also labeled differently. Should I just bite the bullet and buy what you guys are using, or do you think my stuff will work with this project? Here are pictures:
  16. jtryon

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    that's awesome!
  17. jonthompson

    Arduino Controller for Automatic gates

    Just a heads up - I added a simple cheap DIY surf band to my controller over the weekend and just checked in the code to my github The added parts are under $20: This waterproof SOS band (cheap, waterproof, sealed battery, somewhat lame looking but easier than building one.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BQYTM6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and Using the receiver like this: https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Receiver-Regeneration-Wireless-Burglar/dp/B01AL5Q7SC (Can also get a 5 pack for about the same price without the antennas and just add your own wiring.) Logic is - pressing button while surfing overrides the current deploy state until the boat slows below the speed limit - then it returns to whatever you have the switch set to. This is great for transfers controlled by surfer -- and then not confusing for the driver when restarting.
  18. Macdaddy

    NSS style device for 210

    Wow...that looks awesome!
  19. We hit a submerged piece of wood (or something) at the lake right about 20 mph. Did not even see it. But it was enough to bend both the prop and the strut. So I had to get both repaired. Since my boat is 11 years old, I decided to go ahead and pull the driveline and replace the shaft seal system as well. For this I chose Glide's Dripless Shaft Seal System (GMSS Kit) because its virtually maintenance free, dripless, and it's what comes in the brand new Malibus. I also learned more about Glide for our giveaway/drawing on Wake Garage (nope, I didn't win, I had to buy one).... The company's owner was very helpful in answering questions and was passionate about boats. They have a solid reputation and I like supporting good companies. I also learned from other Wake Garage members @Hyperryd and @rhino89523 about their Glide upgrades which was helpful. Also, remember in order to pull the driveshaft you might have to pull your rudder -- depending on your boat. This is briefly covered in another project here: Rudder Rebuild. Here's the Glide GMSS system I am installing in this project -- replacing the 11 year old shaft stuffing box. 1) CHECK SHAFT Before pulling the driveshaft, I did a hasty check to make sure it was straight after our collision. It spun freely, no jambs, and I used a magnet based dial indicator to measure the drive shaft in multiple areas. I checked it at the top, then by the strut in a few places. I've read that movement needs to be less than three thousands of an inch. Best to take the shaft to a machine shop or propeller service center to have it checeked... but I was comfortable calling mine straight enough. Terrible picture... sorry.... but if you haven't done this before you can attach the dial indicator magnet to a metal base, such as to the trailer, and then adjust the arms so that the indicator point rests on the drive shaft. Reset the gauge to show "zero". Then spin the drive shaft to see the indicator shows movement in or out. Do this in a few places, top, middle, and at strut, etc. 2) REMOVED COUPLING -- The next step is easy or difficult depending on your boat's access. Direct drives can be much easier. Mine's a V drive and I did not have much room to work, although I know it could be much worse. Removed the 4 bolts attaching the V drive flange to the drive shaft coupler. Mine then had an allen set screw that keeps the nut on the end of driveshaft from spinning, so you need to remove the set screw. If yours does not have a set screw, you likely have a snap ring or something inside. Removing those bolts was easy, I had good access to work a socket and wrench on one side, then rotated the driveshaft by hand to do the next bolt. Remove the set screw so the drive shaft nut can be turned. Access to the drive shaft nut can be difficult. In my case, I was NOT able to fit a socket and socket wrench in between the v drive flange and the drive shaft coupler. There was not enough width. I could not find a combination that worked. So had to improvise. I've heard of some people welding a socket nut to a flat bar to make a skinnier wrench. Or cutting down a socket to get it to fit in there with the socket wrench, which is what I did. I put the socket in a vise, then used a grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the socket almost in half. Now I had a socket that fit over the nut, and provided enough width to use the socket wrench in between the flange and the coupler. Can see it here. Now I could fit the wrench in there with the cut socket. From there getting the nut off wasn't super easy either.... I had one of my stronger buddies hold the prop while I wrenched the nut off. Otherwise you'll need to improvise another way to keep is from spinning while you wrench on it. But we got the nut off, and you can see here how it fit in the slimmed socket. Next step was to get the drive shaft coupler off of the tapered drive shaft. There's a keyway in there and the coupler presses on the tapered end. It's a good idea to mark your driveshaft with a sharpie, to see where your coupler was positioned on it. Then when you put it back on, you'll have a reference to make sure it's on far enough etc. To get the "pressed" coupler off the tapered driveshaft, I bought longer bolts (narrow thread) and placed a small socket between the drive shaft and the coupler. Then slowly tightened all four bolts until it pressed off. This took some torque, in fact once all the bolts were evenly tightened I switched to my battery powered torque gun and the coupler popped right off. Once the coupler was off, I cleaned it up the best I could. Next was the part where I actually get to replace the seal system with the new Glide system. Here's the old system in place. Looks a little grungy after 11 years/ 500+ hours. Next we pulled the driveline back out of the way and replaced the seal system. Pulling the old brass shaft packing off was as simple as unscrewing the hose clamps that keep it snug around the brass shaft seal box attached to the hull. It came off without any problems. Here's the old shaft seal with the brass compression nut and wax rope packing inside vs the new Glide GMSS seal kit, which is essentially maintenance free. You can see the hose barb off to the side of it, which will feed it water and keep it dripless. The inside looks like the Glide strut bearings, with a hump hose attaching to the hull shaft seal box just like the old one did. Glide GMSS went on smoothly, tightened the two hose clamps over the shaft/hull box. You also want to check you drive shaft to make sure it doesn't have permanent wear marks from the previous setup. Any light rings can be cleaned up with emery cloth to make sure the shaft is smooth and allow the new seal system to spin smoothly and wear in properly on the drive shaft. Forgot pictures of this, but we did clean up the driveshaft before reinstalling. The GMSS kit comes with a small cardboard or alum spacer in between the top O ring. You want to keep this in place, so that when you push the drive shaft back up into it, the O ring seats nicely on the shaft and to prevent damage. The little cardboard spacer gets pushed out by the driveshaft and then you can just throw it away. Once the driveshaft was back in and through the new GMSS, I could reinstall the tapered coupler onto the shaft. My coupler is aluminum and went right back on (referring to my previous marks, which also just meant tightening as far as it wanted to go). Just make sure your keyway is in correctly before doing this. I also installed the water hose over the barb with the included hose clamp. Then routed the line out of the way and used the included stainless "T" fitting inserted into my raw water cooling line near the transmission. I just used my PVC pipe cutters to slice it and insert the T fitting. Quick and easy. Once everything was put back together, I ran the water to my boat to make sure it didn't leak and ran the motor on the trailer. I did not put it in gear, but checked to make sure water was running through the T fitting to feed the GMSS, and that there were no leaks. All looked great. We just spent 3 days with it on the water. Worked perfect. We also replaced the strut bearings (since strut had to be straightened). Between all these fixes my boat has run smoother - than it has since I've owned it. My guess is the strut bearings needed replacing anyway. So if there's a silver lining in damaging my strut and prop -- it's forced me to replace all the seals on this 07 boat. Between the new shaft seals, the new strut bearings and the new rudder seals/rebuild kit -- the boat is "new again" below the water line. Hope this write up and pictures help someone. * forgot to mention I also did a quick check on engine to shaft alignment since I also removed the strut to get it fixed/straightened. Loosened the bolts on the coupler slightly, used a feeler gauge between the coupler and v drive flange to compare the differences between top to bottom, and side to side. Looked for a difference - shooting for less than three thousands of an inch difference. I made zero adjustments in this case.
  20. Rugger

    NSS style device for 210

    That’s definitely gonna make some 210 owners very happy!! Post the installation! You’ve got this thing down for sure. I think most people are intimidated by the nss system as a retro. Nautique by far has the best looking surf system I think... not going to get into which is “best”. Too many variables and hull differences. They all work great.
  21. Agua Canuck

    More awesome MB Slappers

    Hyperryd- great looking slapper install. What type of weight is in that 21’ MB? I am fighting a battle that I hope I can win. I have a 23’ Inboard with (4) in floor ballast hard tanks totaling 1150 lbs and using another 600 lbs fat sac. My suck gate works pretty well but I am really over the shifting and moving and setting to go from regular to goofy and back. I really like what you have created. I have pondered a GSA or Wakeworx but the costs seem ludicrous for a few actuators, surf tabs and the control module. Please advise on if you have a package available for the control module / buttons etc. Thanks very much. I’m looking for a bit more push. Maybe the slappers might help? I can fax anything on a CNC as I work in sheet metal and composites
  22. Earlier
  23. Max 1.6

    NSS style device for 210

    Similar to my 230 and 220 project, I was asked to work on the pre-nss generation of Nautique 210. Took measurements, made templates, adjusted everything and made a prototype. Will be installing everything very shortly.
  24. So the return line goes to the pump and not the tank? For some reason I thought it dumped back into the tank...good to know this works. I've been keeping an eye on fuel pumps since it seems like it happens all the time to boats of this age.
  25. Gravity

    Lead bags

    Tool bag from home depot. Then hit up your local tire stores and get some used wheel weights for free. toss desired amount in bag. Zip it up and you got some cheap ballast to move around as needed.
  26. rhino89523

    Rudder box rebuild

    Thats kind of a good call, I end up all twisted laying in my locker almost dislocating my shoulder to grease that sucker up and there is plenty of room to remote zerk that thing...adding remote zerk to my little list.
  27. Hyperryd

    Rudder box rebuild

    What? You didn’t polish it while it was out? You are slipping Rugger!! Lol nice job. One nice feature on my MB is a remote grease zerk for the rudder, above the motor. Makes for easy access. Later models don’t have it. In my opinion every rudder should have one.
  28. Timr71

    Rudder box rebuild

    Nice job. I have a different issue with my rudder. I have pitting on my rudder shaft and that creates slop in my rudder. I think i'm going to have to replace the rudder and the box in order to get it firmed up. It's not too bad now, a little slop at the steering wheel, but feels pretty good when under power. And, it's not leaking water into the bilge so it's sealed up tight. That'll be a winter project some year.
  29. rhino89523

    Rudder box rebuild

    When I did my Glide bearings I had to pull the rudder to clear the shaft, I did a very similar ghetto floor jack lift procedure to get it out. I should have done this while it was out but didn't. Now I think this is on my list just because. $50 for the re seal kit seems steep for what is provided, they are proud of those parts. Nice write up, great job. You say you are not an expert but in one of the photos it is clear that you are wearing latex gloves...It just doesn't get more pro than that Doctor Rugger...haha.
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