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  1. Today
  2. I have been trying to perfect the surf wave on my 2000 Mastercraft X-Star (205v) for several years. We started with ballast on one side and listing the boat as far as possible (circa 2010). A few years ago we got a Nautical, which was a game changer. The next season, we added a 2nd Nauticurl, which improved the wave. This season I went all in. I decided to make custom DIY surf gates. The 205v has an angled transom. It starts out angling back from the top rear of the boat. About 2/3 of the way down, it angles to perpendicular with the bottom of the hull for a few inches and then angles back towards the bow as it meets the bottom of the hull. There is also a chine on the side of the hull about 2/3 of the way down. All of that generally frustrates a traditional hinged gate where the hinges are attached to the transom because the mounting points of the two hinges are not in the same plane. Not to be deterred, I made aluminum brackets to mount the surf gate hinges. The first iteration brackets mounted in the location of the swim platform mounts in between the transom and the platform mounts. That did not work so well for two reasons. First, on my boat, the swim platform mounts are very wide which limits the space for mounting the actuators. Second, I angled the piece to mount the hinges to match the angle of the bow as it hits the transom, about 15 degrees. This caused the gates to "go deep" about 4" when deployed which did not make a good wave at all. They were also too low in the water which interfered with the flow on the non-deployed (surf) side. If it's not better than 2 Naticurls, it's not an improvement, so I went back to the drawing board. The current iteration uses a more complex bracket. It is a 1 1/4" block of aluminum that mounts where the swim platform mounts used to mount. It has a piece or 3/4" aluminum bar welded to the inboard side where the swim platform mounts are now installed. It has a trimmed down piece of 3/8" aluminum angle for the hinge mounts as well as for the mount for the actuator. I also had to trim my teak platform to allow the gates to retract all the way out of the flow. The result, the waves are great, better than two Nauticurls. The gates are made from Starboard which I used just for proof of concept. The original plan was to rebuild the gates from teak to match the swim platform once the issues were ironed out. I am rethinking that simply because they look pretty good as is and they work really great. I am controlling the actuators with a Wake Logic controller. That is easily the most expensive part of the entire build, but worth every penny. Also, the customer service cannot be beat. In testing I accidentally wired the controller reverse polarity and exploded a couple of large capacitors and took out a couple other small components. Matt took it back fixed it and sent it back to me for no charge (though I offered several times). The ability to switch sides with the push of a button is awesome. Even more awesome is the ability to turn the boat at low speeds without having to fight the perma-rudder attached to the side of the boat. Since I have had to replace all the original gauges, I was able to repurpose the 3 micro switches that used to adjust the two speedos and the clock to now control the surf gates. Here are a few pictures of the install and some video of the waves we are working with. Once the season is over I plan to remove the brackets and have them, along with the platform mounts, powder coated black. The video showing the gates deploy uses a 6 second deployment which creates a significant angle to the bow (60 degrees more or less). It worked well for the port side but goofy was not too good. I thought it was too much angle and was disrupting the laminar flow on the non surf side so I dropped it to 4.5 seconds or about 30 degrees. The wave was much better. I need to experiment with the ballast. I run 2 750 lb sacs in the rear lockers, factory KGB (300 lbs) in the ski locker and about 400 under the front seats. It needs a lot of weight to make a good strong wave and needs a lot upfront to make a clean goofy wave. That goofy wave was all the sacs full and two people in the bow, one in the back and the driver. With everyone in the back, the wave doesn't form correctly but with plenty of weight in the bow, it forms nicely with lots of length and push. Thought some 205v owners might like to see this. The steps and angles on the transom make more traditional gates with hinges attached directly to the transom impossible. The nice thing about this install is that it uses the factory transom mounting and requires only a single hole on each side for the actuator cable. IMG_5245.m4v IMG_5249.m4v IMG_5171.m4v
  3. Yesterday
  4. G8wood


    2007 LSV 247
  5. Last week
  6. There's a vertical piece that fills the gap between the seatback and the driver side panel. It's attached toward the top through the gunwale. The seatback then got an L bracket in to that piece. As well as the seat base mounts through the floor and attaching to the seatback in the original location
  7. Never would have guessed that one haha. Appreciate it
  8. Great mod for sure. Out of curiosity, how did you attach the setback piece to the floor??
  9. Shocking that you would change the configuration of your boat. haha Looks clean!
  10. nice work! That looks way better. I'm sure you'll enjoy it more and find it more usable.
  11. This project takes the rear facing 2 person seat out from behind the drivers seat and flips it to the full wrap around v drive configuration. Increasing floor space tremendously. Puts the drivers seat on a pedestal. Start by tearing out the factory bases. I trimmed the factory seatback piece to roughly about 12 inches I then trimmed up the factory seat base. I think I removed 3-1/2" from the long side. Then when I got the right amount off the short side it got in to the curve causing it to be short. Fixed it with a little spacer Mounted the pedestal for the drivers seat. For me this was a major upgrade. My eyes were dead in line with the top of the windshield before. This gave me a 4" increase in height at the lowest position. It raises as well as the bolster. Also, now it can swivel with out contacting the panel. I didn't take any pics but the cushion was notched out to clear the back rest and I filled in the factory spot with extra foam and HDPE from notching the base. The panel beside the drivers seat has been loose at the bottom since I got this boat. Makes a lot of noise in rough water. I trimmed the bottom so I could finish it out with 90* angles instead of having to think. Best pic I have of it is below, three screws straight down in to the base secured the bottom. (Not pictured) Next I cut out behind the back rest to make a storage cubby mimicking the original just tiny. Then Frankensteined the original backrest to finish out the project. There was a courtesy light inside it originally that may find it's way in to the boat somewhere. Overall I'm very happy with it.
  12. No way! Hell ya! Thank you so much! This is actually a project I have to finish before the end of the month this just made this project an actual fun one to do. Thanks @Tim @ GLIDE @TeamGlide and @Wake Garage
  13. All entrants were drawn out of a hat, this time from Lake Tahoe. Those with projects had multiple entries up to a max of four! AND THE WINNER IS...... @Jason6368 !!! Congratulations! Send us a PM with your full name, address, phone and what shaft size your boat has. 1 1/8"? Thanks to everyone who participated. And thanks to @Tim @ GLIDE @TeamGlide for hooking up Wake Garage members with your awesome product. We have many members who have installed it for good reasons. No brainer.
  14. Shoebox

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    I originally got a set of used 4.25 throw actuators, but couldn't get that length to work. It may work for you, depends on the shape of your transom. With the 2.25s I could get 30° down (relative to the hull bottom), which is far too much. I found I got the best wave with just 5° down, which was just over half extension. With only 2.25" throw, and maybe only actually extending 1.5", it's actually a faster deployment than the fast 4.25" actuators.
  15. Looks like you used the lenco 101xds actuators which have a 2.25" stroke. Ever wish you could deploy them further? with the 4.25" actuators they sell? I hear the 102F or any of the F series deploy much faster and that would allow for wake side switching mid-surf with the Wake Logic Controller. Just looking at building these and trying to decide if 2.25" will be enough. I suppose it depends on where you mount them on the plate surface how much vertical deployment you get.
  16. Id suspect a voltage issue. With the power demands of the audio ballast system, paired with the Link helm system and engine ECM which are both voltage sensitive system, it can cause all kinds of weird issues. If the audio media center is off and the problems are present, this most likely eliminates the audio system, as the only links between the audio and the rest of the boat, are the battery and link. The battery is the voltage source for the entire boat and the LINK acts as a slave wired remote for the audio. If its off, then there is no audio load on the batteries. If the issue is only present when the audio is on. this points more toward low voltage. Ill PM you mobile. Give me a call tomorrow.
  17. Funny enough, I own this boat now. This system rocks, but I am having some electrical problems with the boat and I am wondering if there is some kind of stereo short causing them possibly? Any chance I could get an email or number to call? Thanks! chad
  18. Some good looking boats on here. Entry for the 2020 drawing is now closed. Admin will work with Glide and announce the winner in the next few days. Good luck everyone!!
  19. I don't have a upholstery background, but it's pretty easy. There is only a couple stitches that you will need to use. You'll need a walking foot industrial sewing machine that can found on craigslist for $400-600 . The key is use marks about every 6 inches to line up the pieces and to cut an accurate pattern and if the existing vinyl has a odd curves from being stretched for years, you'll need to make the new pattern have the same odd curve so it will match how the foam has been squished. Theres some great videos on Sailrite that show you everything you need to know.
  20. The clamp is made by rugged ridge. Originally its designed to mount Jeep Off Road Lights to the bumper. Can be found on ebay for the cheapest around 12$.
  21. Looks very good. You do all the cuts and sewing yourself? Do you have a background in this?
  22. What is the tower clamp you used and where did you get it from?
  23. Earlier
  24. What is that cool disco light with the green and million reds? Super cool cup holder project. I’d love to do this in-conjunction with my outside rings I. Different colors.
  25. What did you use for your flexible exhaust hose on the interior? Does it have any stretch to it? I am trying to find something heavy duty for my silent stinger project, but it needs to be able to stretch some.
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