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jfthunder

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jfthunder last won the day on February 17

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About jfthunder

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  1. Send me a message and I can help you get what you need. Thanks!
  2. Yes, it sits just about flush. Maybe 1/4" below the top of the pad.
  3. After looking at a number of options and trying to come up with solutions, I decided to dive in and do my own marine decking. Those of us with older boats that have non gel coated floors are at a disadvantage, until now! I started with the painful process of pulling up the old carpet. There is a bunch of write ups out there on this so I will spare you the details but will say getting he first part up is the hardest and acetone works well to strip the old glue. Specific questions, just ask. After stripping the glue, I made a series of templates based on the sheet siz
  4. I am placing a pin in to replace the threads but I had to turn down the bolt to do so.
  5. For those that have older boats, you may have battled the eye sore called the stationary pylon. I looked into aftermarket options and didn't see anything that would quite do the job. I also read posts where some had done some extensive modifications to create their own with success but I approached it a bit differently. Instead of modifying the area that holds the pylon by extending it and adding a groove for a bolt to ride in, I had a groove put in the pylon to allow it to ride on a pin. Basically I reversed what is done from the factory. The machinist took off about .030 to allow t
  6. Excellent question. The vinyl tube I used was a 1/4" i.d. and 3/8" o.d. so it has some decent wall thickness for the size of tube. I also use this tube for other projects so I knew it would work for my scenario. To your point, I would look at a reinforced tubing or a HDPE tube if you want to go with a much larger i.d. tubing or, at least, pay attention to the wall thickness. HDPE will be stiffer and not drape as well so another option that is semi flexible and will be moderately drapeable is LDPE. Most of the tubing available at your local hardware store up to about 1/2" i.d. will
  7. In my quest to reinvent the wheel and after reading so many negative comments on a variety of fluid extraction units, I designed my own. Using PVC pipe, caps and some brass fittings this is what I came up with... I used and inexpensive 2.5 CFM vacuum pump from Harbor Freight which you can find for around $85.00. I already had the pump which I use for other things but it was this that started the gears turning. I used 1/4" tubing and 1/4" barbed MIP (All 1/4 NPT threads) for the vacuum and extraction lines. I drilled and tapped with a 7/16" drill bit and a 1/4 NPT tap.
  8. I appreciate your willingness to be a bit more bold than I was. My older VLX does not have as much of an interesting graphic combination from the factory so I went very conservative by replacing what was there with updated patterns and colors. You made great choices and the end result for your vinyl is excellent! Great work!!
  9. So here is the final version. I added a 1 1/4" comb T fitting with a 3/4" threaded outlet for the ball valved garden hose fitting. Screw on the hose and open the valve, close the raw water intake, turn on the hose and fire it up! Less than 60 seconds. The total cost was about $12.00
  10. That is a great idea! I like that you drew it in solidworks, good thinking!
  11. nickm inspired me to post my version of the fake-a-lake after reading his post for the Raptor motor. Not being a closed system, a constant flow is required so what I did was take a 1 1/4" reinforced tube and coupled this to a 1 1/4" elbow and then to 1" adapter. From there I added a 3/4" adapter with a hose hook up. Works great and I can run my Monsoon and maintain proper temp all day long! Version 2 will be permanently plummed with a diverter valve. Coming as soon as I find the right tubing because the factory set up is just a few inches too short to cut and insert the T fitting. Not sure if
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