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Dale974

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Dale974 last won the day on April 26

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About Dale974

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  1. Dale974

    Fiberglass platform

    That might be a good option as well, might be cheaper and a little easier to get than coosa... i figured i could pry sell my old one then, although it probably wouldn't cost too much for fiberglass and filler... i guess i didn't think about that because i didn't want to not have a platform while i was making or fixing the old one, although i have a partial sheet of 3/4" plywood i could seal and paint black and put the old pad on it while i retrofitted the original. If i paint it black, and have to use it for a month, oh well. no one would even notice it much unless you were close to the boat.
  2. Dale974

    Fiberglass platform

    I may be referring back to this project multiple times. Considering doing the same with 3/4" coosa board possibly to make a surfgate style platform for my 06' vlx since the stock one is too wide and square for my gates to work nicely. Awesome job on this! Question for anyone, if i do this with the coosa board, would i gain strength with 2 layers of 3/4" glued and screwed together, or if i can get 1.5" board would a single piece be enough? I'm not much of an engineer, but just wondering if the double layer would add strength vs. the equivalent in a single layer?
  3. Yeah, @ryan it wasn't the cheapest option, but i'm glad i did it so far. Will do @Rugger. it came as a pdf, so i figured if you put it there then people could view it because it would be pretty simple to fix the failed transducers if they have this info
  4. When i got my 06' VLX last fall the only thing i was worried about was that it didn't have a depth finder. Running on the river where i normally run it is important to me to have a depth reading because of shallow areas, etc. I was hoping to keep my dash as stock as possible and didn't want to make another hole somewhere for an auxiliary depth system. When the dash turns on at startup it would show depth along with the air and lake temp, so i figured i could somehow get it to show there. I started looking around and got in contact with bakes online and saw that they had the module for an 04-06 malibu so i figured if i picked that up and added the transducer i would be good to go. Obviously not the cheapest route, but i liked the idea of it integrated in the dash like the stock system. Only problem i ran into was that they no longer make the transducer for these boats as i'm sure plenty of others with these year boats that have found out if their transducers failed. After talking with Andrew at bakes he got me a pdf and info that there was a lowrance transducer that was supposed to work in place of the discontinued transducer. Basically you cut the plug off the old transducer and splice it on the new one because the new transducer plug is different than the old one. However since i didn't have an old one to replace, i tried to get a failed one from another malibu owner. After not having any luck going that route, i decided i could just make up my own plug. I got some weather pac pins that i could make fit and ended up making a crude plug out of silicone but it works. I set the depth finder on the top of a 30 gallon barrel filled with water and the depth read 2.5 ft, which according to my math is equal to the 30" that the barrel measures. I ended up mounting the transducer where i had seen it mounted in other vdrives The new lowrance transducer is a: Lowrance PD-WBL. I have a pdf from andrew that shows how to use this replacement transducer that i can try to send others if needed, or else i can get it to Rugger to put in the resources section for others if needed. Last thing to do is get this boat on the water to make sure it all reads as it should. I'm not sure if i have explained this very well, so if you have any questions let me know and i'll be happy to help, or send you the pdf or whatnot.
  5. When adding additional ballast to the rear compartments of my 06' VLX i didn't want to go so much to the extent that i lost all storage. I had a set of 565# sacs as well as a pair of 400# sacs to chose from. Although after filling both up, i opted for the 400# so that i still had some storage space left above them to hold the jackets that we use the most. I figure if i need more back there i can always through a lead wake bag or two and then i'm up to 500# without sacrificing space. I had planned on trying to make some sort of a shelf so i had ordered some 1/4" hdpe in 2' x 4' sheets which was more than i needed, but worked out well to have some left over to make a custom sub box in my kickplate to improve my sub. Basically i got 4 J bolts and mounted them thru the divider panels and made sure i ran them thru the wakemakers divider panel reinforcement kit so that i was putting extra weight on the channel and not just on the poly. I then took some strips of strap from the old winch strap that i had replaced last fall... I cut them to length and punched holes and added grommets to them to go over the j-hooks and fasten to the gunnel. The straps are there to hold the trays level whether the sacs are full or empty. I then took the poly and cut it to fit inside the compartment area and added 1" holes where the j-hooks are so that the trays can hook into the hooks. I then cut about 3-4" of poly strips to make the edges of the trays to help keep jackets, etc from sliding off the trays or sliding under the edges and then getting pinched if the bags would surge or whatnot. Then as a final touch i borrowed a router and rounded the edges for a more finished look. However i should have done this step before assembling the trays since it was harder to round edges where the router wouldn't fit. I just finished those off with a pocket knife instead of taking the trays back apart. Finally because the trays would block the existing lights in the storage compartment, i added a set of 3/4" white LEDs to the gunnel to provide lighting for late surf sets, cleaning out the compartments, etc. I added two because i had added green accent LEDs in the cabin area to go with regular white accents. Instead of rigging up relays to run a single white off of two circuts i just hooked one to green, and the other to white, so i had storage lighting with either light option. After completing this project i did see a guy on another forum just tied cargo netting across the opening. That would have been an easier option, but i was hoping to maybe keep the compartment slightly drier. I'll let ya know in a month whether this was a good option or not, but for now i'm pleased with the outcome...
  6. Yeah, i definitely like my illusion x, but i can't hardly mount anything below it because at 5'11" to 6" i about rub my head on it. The extra height would be nice, and with my mirror mounted from the tower, i can see it when it rocks back and forth just a bit...
  7. That makes me want to find a G3 for my VLX! Looks awesome!
  8. Right! And i'm up in Ohio, so i'm not dealing with triple digit days like you guys. Although if i had skills like you @cowwboy i wouldn't need it because i could water cool my amps! I think that is awesome! I think you need those in the floor of the walkway to the bow with clear poly over them and LED's in them! just a thought
  9. After upgrading my stereo system this winter and looking thru some of the forums and projects about cooling amps, etc i figured it wouldn't hurt to try to keep some space in the storage compartment away from towels, jackets, bags, etc. I picked up a smaller sheet of left over expanded aluminum at the local welding shop. I cut the original piece to size and using my "high tech" metal bender (2 2x6's) i bent the metal to give me a 18" high by 8" deep L-shape piece that was 20" wide. Since i needed to cover more width, i used what i cut off to extend the overall width of coverage up to 25". I then took some extra 3/4" ballast hose i had and split it and covered the sharp edges of the panel to protect the carpet, hull, and stop snags. For now i figure that with extra towels, jackets, etc those will keep the shield in place. If not i may need to attach the panel to the floor, but for now i'll see once how this works. Nothing too fancy, but hopefully it helps keep the amps cooler and keeps anything from messing up any connections, etc.
  10. Dale974

    Water Cooled amplifiers

    Makes sense... I might have to look into that. Thanks
  11. Dale974

    Water Cooled amplifiers

    Were your batteries in the rear compartments to start with or was that a mod you did? Mine are up front next to the amps and shut off switch, etc. But i could definitely gain a lot of usable room moving them elsewhere. I'd have to measure my space, but if i could put them under the rear seat backs before the ballast area that would be awesome. Do you have any pictures of this or is this a thread on the site? I would be interested in more info... Thanks
  12. Dale974

    Reversible pump with selectable valves

    When i took the head unit out i used this set of switch housings: Faylapa 8pcs Rocker Switch Panel Holder Housing Kit Toggle Switch Housing Holder Black https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQX227N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The kit i ordered came with 8 panels, however only 7 fit in the head unit space. I did have to trim about 1/16" to 1/8" off the opening to get 7 to fit lengthwise. I liked this idea since i was pulling the head unit anyway and i wanted to keep the dash and control panel looking as close to stock as i could. Hope this helps
  13. When i was adding additional rear ballast to my 06' VLX i wanted to plumb in the option to be able to run additional floor ballast or a bow sac that could be filled semi-automatic or at least while moving unlike a throw over pump. Since i was doing reversibles for the rears i decided a reversible for the front plumbed in and out thru the center drain plug would work the nicest. I mounted a johnson pump up behind the kick plate and plumbed it back down the side of the trim where the fire extinguisher and driver's cupholder is. My plan was originally to use a 3 way valve similar to the bosworth sealect valve you can get thru wakemakers. However i wanted the valve over to the side and there wasn't going to be enough room for it there, plus i kinda wanted the option to fill/drain 1 sac or 2 depending on crew size, etc. So i ran 1" line from the pump into a brass T with 2 - 1" ball valves coming off the T. The valve pointing toward the front of the boat then has a hose barb and runs a hose up to the bow that tucks back under the side when not in use. The valve toward the back of the boat has a street 90 turning straight toward the side of the trim with a Ronix PNP pump ballast adapter w/ cap threaded into the 90 and thru the trim. This helps hold the valve assembly in place, plus makes a nice convenient port to plug a ballast hose with quick connector to when in use similar to what shadetreefab did on his install. The plan is to put a sumo 650 on the floor in the back which fits cross ways between the seats with a quick connect 90 so that the hose will tuck right around the seat to the port. I ordered a pack of 2" flexible grommets https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNXAPK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on amazon to run the valve handles up thru to clean up the install on the top side of the trim panel then. Looking back, i could have just used regular 2" open grommets because i ended up cutting most all the rubber out so it wouldn't catch on the valve. One other thing i did have to do since my kickplate went all the way to the outside of the hull was to trim out the kickplate at the end of the trim panel to allow the 2 hoses to run thru that space. Switch wise, i used a reversible rocker switch from wakemakers with just a ballast label on it and added it into my switch panel in the armrest since i had removed the head unit. Hope this helps someone, i'm sure i forgot some stuff. I know one thing i did forget was to take a picture of the valves when i had the trim panel off, so i tried one with it on, but i could draw a diagram if someone needed it. Now i can't wait for some warm weather to get out there and try it out!
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