Shadetreefab

Dam!, don't know you were doing a center exit!, your crazier then I thought.

My wife asked for the same option, I'm installing two on Monday

Have you got a chance to get your hands on those kickers? If so how do you fill the stack up to some rev 10's?

Haha, that brings back memory's of when I put my hallet back on with a 310 John Deere.

Me too!! 07 247 lsv

Drill drain holes in the bottom of your 90's so water can get out.

@TimbrSS that bracket page with part numbers is golden. Could you measure from bottom of platform to top of wedge bracket forme if you get a chance. @Rugger this is where I stole the pump bracket placement from!

I have the same boat as rugger, last weekend I surfed them back to back. I'm running tsunami suck Gate at around 4K ballast. I've been told by every one that's rode my boat it's good, long wave. Ruggers boat with over 1k less ballast was real close to mine. They work great. Wave forms fast and solid. I'm building a set this winter if I get time for sure. And they toltaly look better then factory.

It looks even better in person and they work as good as they look

I really like the newer malibu racks, so I decided to make some fit my illusion tower. Its an 1"3/8 between the front factory hole and new hole one, 1"3/8 new hole one to new hole two, then pilot hole with 1/8" bit. Then in I used a step bit to open up the holes some what. 3/4" counter sink the second new hole. Making sure the screw sits a little past flush. Finish size of middle hole is 27/64 and new counter sunk hole is 7/16. 1/2"-13nc tap, tap the center hole. Take it slow and use cutting oil, if you don't have any use anti seize I like to back the tap out and clean the hole and tap every time around. Blow out with air, if no compressor use caned air for cleaning keyboard. Put screws in counter sunk holes, place ss t-nuts on back, finger tight. Had to clean out and open up dowel holes on tower. Put mount on tower and insert 1/2" bolt from inside, snug down, then tighten counter sunk screws. Slide rack on mount, get it to where the end of rack just covers the mount, tighten set screw to leave a mark on back of rack, then remove and drill small spot at mark to grab the set screw, I had to cut down an old Allen wrench to fit the set screw. Not a lot of room between it and tower Slide rack on tighten set screw, @Rugger dose this count as one-upping? Back at it, I found out there are at least two different mounting plates. One aluminum and one stainless, the aluminum one has two small stand off on it. With the stand off and thickness of the t-nut base pushed the mounting out off the tower and created a gap that I didn't like.. So I knocked down the stand offs and cut pockets to recesse the t-nut base, did this with a drimel and hand file So now the fit with no gap to tower. stainless steel mount-drill, tap and counter sink like the aluminum one, it didn't have the stand offs so just had to cut in the t-nut pockets.

But did you stay at a holiday inn express last night

https://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=3803 used this on the back https://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-1-drylok-bag-fitting.html and these on the front, I want to change them to the ronix ones with the caps though. Bend/shape ss plate to fit, then drilled it with a hole saw and debur, used 4200 for thread sealer just so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

Bad a$$

If I get a chance this weekend I'll get some more pics and show how/what I did a bit better.

I'm sure I'll have some questions for you when your auto gates are all done and sorted.