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Wylie_Tunes

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Wylie_Tunes last won the day on August 2 2023

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Boat Info

  • Boat
    24 ft Toon

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  • Location
    Lake Wylie area, NC

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  1. The blue tooth is integrated into the Polk black box, so no fixing that. You could install a universal blue tooth to the AUX in, but you would not have song display and track advance on the link. The JL Media Master may be compatible. However, I do not know how far back the Link/JL software is backward compatible. This would be a dealer question. If I was going to replace the Polk 5 chnl, id go with the Kicker KXMA900.5
  2. The space behind the woofer is very small, but its also not sealed. It not really woofer enclosure by any stretch. In these boat, that structure needs to be opened up to allow the back of the woofer to share the same are space as the locker and bow. If building a sealed or ported, this structure would be deleted anyway. Woofers are also purpose built. Some are designed best for small enclosure and some, like the Revo-12FA are designed for a very large air space, as in infinite-baffle/free air. So for the best woofer performance, you need to make sure you've got the right woofer for the application. A non-IB woofer can be run IB, but it will not perform as well as it wood in small enclosure or as well as a true IB woofer. Next, need proper wattage and amp. Hitting the woofer's RMS or more, is always best. Depending on the enclosure type, sealed, ported, IB, some amps are better then others for a more ideal tune. Tuning has to include the both the woofer amp and the cabin amp, as well the head unit setting. It all has to be taken into account for a good sounding system. @Bobby Start a thread and list the specifics about the woofer and amp, and we'll see if we can make some improvements.
  3. Dusty's 2020 came to us with an aftermarket 10" Kicker Comp VX woofer in front of the helm. Great woofer, but it was in an MDF sealed automotive box, which will not last long in the marine environment. It was also bridged on 2 chnls of a Wet Sounds HTX-4 amp, so under powered by half. The other half of the HTX-4 was powering a pair of Wet Sounds Rev-8. So again, about half of where we would like them. So, We pulled the HTX-4 and installed an HTX-2 and an SDX-6. The SDX-6 is driving the Kicker Comp-VX at 585W rms bridged on 2 chnls. We added a 2nd pair of Rev-8 to the tower, with each now wired to the remaining 4 chnls for 185W to each. To improve the low end, we removed the MDF box and put the Kicker Comp VX in a Roswell marine grade ported enclosure. So we doubled the wattage and effectively increased the effective surface area going from a sealed to ported. We also installed an HTX-2 to power a new Wet Sounds Revo-12HP in a Roswell 12" ported enclosure in the port side mid-ship locker. To bring it all together, we installed a Wet Sound WS220BT in their billet under-dash mount. The 6 cabin speakers stayed on the OEM installed HTX-4, but retuned.
  4. We finally got NormanB52's MB in for the woofer install and head unit. Parts list: Kicker L7S122 wired to 1 ohm Kicker KMA800.1 amp 800W rms x 1 @ 1 ohm RGB LED grill Custom ported enclosure Wet Sounds WS420SQ Under-dash mount With the factory woofer already out of the picture, we split the main cabin speakers from each other, and rewired the rear to their own amp chnl of the OEM HT-6. All speakers now have 110W rms to each. This is a slight bump in wattage, as well as a reduction of load on the amp, but taking 4 chnls from 2 ohm to all 6 now at 4 ohm. We removed the WS-420SQ from the original head unit opening and relocated under the dash in the billet mount. Fabricated a finishing plate and installed a new Clarion M508. Installed the KMA800.1 amp The custom enclosure in the footwell insert with a few lost inches of leg room. I apologize for the sideways images.
  5. Bow pump is on the forward bulkhead in the STBD midship locker in front of the helm.
  6. Thanks, I have them custom etched for me by OTRATTW.
  7. This 04 Tige came in with some sort of plumbed in ballast system, but its was not complete and operational. So we basically started from scratch with a clean slate. Two custom rear surf sacs rated at 1300# each. Fly High W711 IBS in the bow. 3 Johnson Talulah 13.5 GPH pumps, one for each ballast sac. Two intakes, 3 vent/overflow outlets and all the electrical and plumbing.
  8. This 2017 Tige R20 had the base level audio which consisted of 2 pair Wet Sounds Recon-6S and a Marine Audio brand media unit in the glove box and wired remote on helm. The upgrades included; Wet Sounds MC-1BB with the main screen on the helm in place of the old wired remote. The 4 volume zones are; bow, cabin, tower and woofer. HDPE plate to cover the opening left by the old media unit. Rev-10 tower speakers with RGB LED rings and Fusion Signature series 4 chnl bridged for 400W rms to each Wet Sounds Revo-12FA 2 ohm woofer under the helm driven with 400W rms from a Fusion Signature 5 chnl amp. RGB LED "Glow Kit" to illuminate the woofer cone. Existing cabin speakers moved to the 5 chnl amp now receiving 100W rms. Wet Sounds RF-RGB LED controller to take care of the lights. This model does not have tower LEDs as an option, so we used the vacant dock lights switch to power up/down the LED controller. The helm has a small structure built where the factory woofer would have been. Though not actually sealed, it is tight enough to be a constraint on an infinite-baffle woofer. So during the installation of the woofer, the back of the structure needs to be cut open in order for the back of the woofer to "breath" into the entire helm/bow cavity. This gives it plenty of air space to operate properly. To wire the tower, it required the port side hinge pin to be removed and the tower blocked up out of the base. The hinge pin eye had to be unbolted from the bottom of the tube, in order to have access to the tower tube. Due to the tight bends, a normal fish tape would not work. I switched to floss tied to a small steel nut and a large magnet wrapped in painters tape. Even then, every weld was a catch point, which require the tower to be raised and lowered in order to work the nut past the welds.
  9. These pumps are not waterproof, so you do not want to mount them below the normal water line. If the bilge fills, it can damage the pumps. There will be water in the pump head, until the sac/tank is empty. With the synthetic impellers, burned impellers are rare, but if left on running dry long enough, they can burn up.
  10. Likely just need to reorient the fill pumps that are air locking.
  11. Almost all the strips come out of the same build houses, so just get ones that are silicone encapsulated and carry an IP rating. Tip, dont trust the adhesive backing. Use some other means to secure the strips. The backing will let loose in a short time. For the cup holder pucks, we used a waterproof LED thats like 5/16 square with a 12" pigtail. Underwater lights were just white lights If I was going to do this, or similar build, Id go all RGB and a full spectrum RGB controller. Not a HUGE cost difference between single color and RGB and the labor is the same. Even if a single color was the most desired, the controller lets them se the desired color, but have the option to have the other colors. Heck, even RGB underwater lights are getting more budget friendly and more readily available. We can even drive them with the same controller so they are sync'ed with the interior/tower lights. Or, go with a multi-zone controller. Not sure what colors you are after, but beware. Orange is a tough one. Most of the "orange" LEDs are actually amber, which is more yellow. Some labeled as amber, were actually a nice orange. I sourced a number of LEDs to test, just to get a good orange. For the Rev-10 rings, we ordered the single color blue rings ( use to be available then but all RGB now) and then I built my own orange strips.
  12. Was thinking down the road to the next owner, of if your boat has to go in to the shop. I have to fold tongues all the time to get more then one boat in the shop. Looking semi-permanent, so could come off in a pinch?
  13. So the unwanted noise is only when using the BT, but OK when on tuner, USB and AUX? Is the BT the OEM Medallion unit or other?
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