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  • Tige R20 Audio

    • Year: 2017 Brand: Tige Model / Trim: R20 Cost: (unspecified) DIY or Professional Install: Professional Install / paid for it Installation Shop: Mikes Liquid Audio Sound Project Components: Upgraded Head Unit, Upgraded Amps, Upgraded Tower Speakers, Upgraded Wiring, Fuse, etc., Upgraded Subwoofer / Box

    This 2017 Tige R20 had the base level audio which consisted of 2 pair Wet Sounds Recon-6S and a Marine Audio brand media unit in the glove box and wired remote on helm. 

    The upgrades included;

    Wet Sounds MC-1BB with the main screen on the helm in place of the old wired remote. The 4 volume zones are; bow, cabin, tower and woofer. HDPE plate to cover the opening left by the old media unit. 

    Rev-10 tower speakers with RGB LED rings and Fusion Signature series 4 chnl bridged for 400W rms to each

    Wet Sounds Revo-12FA 2 ohm woofer under the helm driven with 400W rms from a Fusion Signature 5 chnl amp. RGB LED "Glow Kit" to illuminate the woofer cone. Existing cabin speakers moved to the 5 chnl amp now receiving 100W rms. 

    Wet Sounds RF-RGB LED controller to take care of the lights. 

    This model does not have tower LEDs as an option, so we used the vacant dock lights switch to power up/down the LED controller. The helm has a small structure built where the factory woofer would have been. Though not actually sealed, it is tight enough to be a constraint on an infinite-baffle woofer. So during the installation of the woofer, the back of the structure needs to be cut open in order for the back of the woofer to "breath" into the entire helm/bow cavity. This gives it plenty of air space to operate properly. 

    To wire the tower, it required the port side hinge pin to be removed and the tower blocked up out of the base. The hinge pin eye had to be unbolted from the bottom of the tube, in order to have access to the tower tube. Due to the tight bends, a normal fish tape would not work. I switched to floss tied to a small steel nut and a large magnet wrapped in painters tape. Even then, every weld was a catch point, which require the tower to be raised and lowered in order to work the nut past the welds. 









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    Crazy... I did almost the exact same thing in my '17 R21 last month.  Exact same layout for the zones, Willing to bet the display is within 1/8" of where i put mine... Not many options though.   Already had rev 10's on an E2 tower and a 12" Memphis Sub installed from the previous system.  Cant seem to get much punch out of it. Kinda Mid-Bassy...I'm assuming its open behind and not sealed and ported.  Replacing the marine power with the MC-1 made a really big difference though.  Like the magnet / nut idea... good thinking.

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    The space behind the woofer is very small, but its also not sealed. It not really woofer enclosure by any stretch. In these boat, that structure needs to be opened up to allow the back of the woofer to share the same are space as the locker and bow. If building a sealed or ported, this structure would be deleted anyway. Woofers are also purpose built. Some are designed best for small enclosure and some, like the Revo-12FA are designed for a very large air space, as in infinite-baffle/free air. 

    So for the best woofer performance, you need to make sure you've got the right woofer for the application. A non-IB woofer can be run IB, but it will not perform as well as it wood in small enclosure or as well as a true IB woofer. 

    Next, need proper wattage and amp. Hitting the woofer's RMS or more, is always best. Depending on the enclosure type, sealed, ported, IB, some amps are better then others for a more ideal tune.

    Tuning has to include the both the woofer amp and the cabin amp, as well the head unit setting. It all has to be taken into account for a good sounding system.


    @Bobby Start a thread and list the specifics about the woofer and amp, and we'll see if we can make some improvements. 

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