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  • Tige 2100v flooring upgrade to off-brand machine-cut Seadek


    Albert Withers
    • Year: 2001 Brand: Tige Model / Trim: 2100v Cost: $500-$999 DIY or Professional Install: I installed it / created it
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    EDIT: For some reason the iphone pics didn't load. I converted to jpg and reuploaded.

    Saw someone else's project on here (conwaylale) and had to do mine.

    I mulled the options around for a while, order the raw material and cut it out myself or do the Seadek or Gatorstep "templates". Seadek didn't have a template and I didn't want to do the plastic thing. Gatorstep already had a template for the 21v which I though might be the same as 2100v but wasn't sure...and they wanted $1600 with a 2 month+ lead time so that was hardly even considered. But I figured there was something in-between, so after seeing decent review about the adhesion quality of Melors, I googled them which turned up their website. I have CAD experience from school so I sent them a message about doing my own dimensions and asked whether I could just send them the file and get the machined material. They agreed.

    So I went out and ripped the old carpet up, took about 3hrs max, including time scraping old glue chunks off. My center piece had deteriorated wood and was smaller than the opening it filled due to the carpet spacing, so got a 4x8 sheet of green treated plywood from Home Depot and made a double layered center piece similar to the original except the top piece filled the entire gap. Epoxied all the wood (2-3hrs). Ended up using black epoxy dye on some of the edges  because I though it might help if there was spots the EVA foam didn't cover, since they would be black in stead of brown. 

    I just used FreeCAD (kind of buggy) to create a sketch, took about an hour to learn the software (I've done a lot of CAD), and about 6 hours of measurements with a lot of triangulation, to create the .dwg file. They had offered me a price of ~$300 but then said shipping would be another $300, total $600. Once I paid them they quickly set to work figuring out the styling for the pattern and were really friendly people. They had the product created within 3 days but they didn't ship it for another 3 days (dissapointing), and it had a 5 business day delivery time. Still way better than Gatorsteps 2 months. 

    Once I got the stuff, it fit quite good, although there are a couple small gaps along the edges, likely due to measurement errors. It's helpful that the stuff is a little stretchy. It took probably 30 hrs of my time total, with the research required. I was super happy with the results. The stuff I got does get pretty hot on the feet in the Texas sun at 100 degrees, but it's not that bad.

    I think it probably increased the value of my boat by $5k+. 

     

     

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    5 hours ago, dcwilson said:

    Dang that looks great! I want to go down this same road with my boat someday but I don't know if my CAD skills would be up to it. 

    Thanks! You might be able to template it with plastic and send it to them. Or else use photomodeler to generate a Cad file from photos.

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    Well done.  That looks amazing!   That's pretty cool you were able to send your own .dwg file.  I might think about that for mine.  And you might have made the next person with your boat happy if they keep the file.

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    23 minutes ago, Jason6368 said:

    Does the floor glue directly to the wood? 

    No, I put down epoxy so that the adhesive will stick. You first want to sand your wood with about 80 grit sandpaper to remove glue and stuck on debris, then sweep/vacuum, then use clean, damp microfiber rags to wipe the remaining dust off, then apply the epoxy. Don't sand the wood smooth with fine grit sandpaper, the course grit is good to give the epoxy something to grab on to. I did it by hand since I didn't an electric sander but it would be faster and easier with an orbital or oscillating sander. For the epoxy, make sure your floor is fairly level, and I recommend using a roller. Before applying the foam, I gave the epoxy a quick wipedown, first with water and then with denatured alcohol. Don't go crazy with denatured alcohol, acetone, or other solvents, since they can cause epoxy to start to dissolve. 

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    1 hour ago, TrevorB. said:

    Looks awesome bro! Anyway you could send the template to me? I have a 2001 Tige 2100V that I'm looming to do the same thing on.

    Sure, see attached. the template_tige_withers-4 is the main one. The other three are for the triangles on the front and both sides. They should still have the files though if you send an email to sales@marinedeckfactory.com and tell them you want the same templates as Albert Withers. I also accept Venmo donations 😉, if you're so inclined @Albert-Withers.  Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions.

    template_tige_withers-4.dwg template_tige_withers_starboard.dwg template_tige_withers_portside.dwg template_tige_withers_front_triangle_2.dwg

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    6 hours ago, conwaylale said:

    Looks killer. Good job!!!

    Thanks man! After seeing yours I couldn't resist. I really like your diamond/faux teak combo but was worried about the diamonds peeling at the points. I was going to order the material and cut it myself but lucked out  when I found that Chinese company that would cut it to specs, and luckily I have CAD experience. Your upgrade what a huge improvement over the carpet. Thanks for the idea!

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    I have the same boat and will start the same project with some EVA I ordered off Amazon and will hand cut.  The floor under carpet being lower and the gas tank cover needing replacement or modifications are a little intimidating, but the tips on this website should help a lot.  Thanks for sharing the project, it looks really great!

    Edited by SimmK88
    Typo
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    On 7/20/2022 at 9:16 PM, SimmK88 said:

    I have the same boat and will start the same project with some EVA I ordered off Amazon and will hand cut.  The floor under carpet being lower and the gas take cover needing replacement or modifications are a little intimidating, but the tips on this website should help a lot.  Thanks for sharing the project, it looks really great!

    Not a promotor for them, but I would advise ordering the template from marinedeckfactory.com. It will be a real challenge to cut it all out correctly, and they can make it any color/pattern you want, with routed edges. It's around $300+shipping. One option I also considered was trying to fill the gas tank gap with cheap rubber trimming or weather stripping that's black. Either way, best of luck!

    Edited by Albert Withers
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    On 6/17/2022 at 5:00 PM, Albert Withers said:

    No, I put down epoxy so that the adhesive will stick. You first want to sand your wood with about 80 grit sandpaper to remove glue and stuck on debris, then sweep/vacuum, then use clean, damp microfiber rags to wipe the remaining dust off, then apply the epoxy. Don't sand the wood smooth with fine grit sandpaper, the course grit is good to give the epoxy something to grab on to. I did it by hand since I didn't an electric sander but it would be faster and easier with an orbital or oscillating sander. For the epoxy, make sure your floor is fairly level, and I recommend using a roller. Before applying the foam, I gave the epoxy a quick wipedown, first with water and then with denatured alcohol. Don't go crazy with denatured alcohol, acetone, or other solvents, since they can cause epoxy to start to dissolve. 

    What type of epoxy did you use?  Seems there’s a lot to choose from. Thanks again!

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    9 hours ago, SimmK88 said:

    What type of epoxy did you use?  Seems there’s a lot to choose from. Thanks again!

    I used West System products. Specifically, the West System 105 Epoxy Resin and the West System 206 slow hardener. I'm sure there's cheaper brands that would do the same trick, I just happened to be near a West Marine store and didn't want to wait for shipping.

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