Setter

Still working on the hook. All of my boards are at the cabin so I'm not sure on hook position. It might end up being attached to the lower of the two factory brackets. Probably just find a nice looking SS or aluminum hook and bolt it on. I was thinking about cutting the backside (where the unused mounting holes are) into the curve to match the stock ones.

The decal is multi 3 colors. Blue then black and chrome on the middle. Imade the control sticker out of the same matching blue to tie it together. I may be redoing that though as I'm not 100% sure I love the location. B your knee can hit it when sitting just rite. More than happy to answer questions, that is how I got the info I needed to be confident in my decisions. Jhart is programming it for me.

The gates are made of 3/4"HPDE. They are 14" tall at the hull and taper to 12.5" at the back and are 19" long. I really want to make them look factory so I made myself a set of decals that are similar to the factory gate decal. I decided to counter sink and tap threads in the gates. This allowed me to make them flush. I also loctited them and then put epoxy in the heads so its smooth, this allows the decals to be smooth over them. After mounting the first tab I chose to make a template using the swim platform and hull to transfer it to the other side. I ordered a set of the Lenco Fast servos from MMI Marine. After a lot of research I chose to go with two 3" hinges. Most people say that screws are fine but I chose to go with bolts and backing plates. From prior fiberglass experience I went with multiple lighter plates. This reduces the risk of applying to much pressure at a specific point. For a control system I chose to go with a the Arduino system. I am very comfortable with the wiring but not the programming so I chose to have the board programmed. I a also like redundancy so I chose to include a set of hard wire switches so if the system decides not to work at any time I can turn that system off and run the tabs in and out manually. The control system is the only portion that I do not have completely finished. I am just waiting on a few minor parts to finish it up and it should be ready. I will add additional pictures of this after it is done.

Being the main driver of the boat I prefer to have control of the stereo. Since my boat does not have Bluetooth I decided to run a 20ft Aux cable from the glove box to the drivers seat storage area. Now I can change the songs from my phone while driving. I left plenty of extra so it can be ran to the seat behind the driver or put a mount on the windshield. I also like to change the tower speaker volume so I relocated the control to the drivers side. This only required the purchase of two 20ft rca cables. Since I was already mounting the ballast switches as well as the surf gate controls on the same area I chose to make a bracket and label made to put them all together.

Looking for an extra ballast option I chose to install 2 additional ballast bags. I decided to go with two 750lbs bags, one in each locker. I knew I wanted to have them hard wired and plumbed. I chose to go with Shurflo Piranha 1100gph pumps. For controls switches I chose to make make a panel to have all of the controls I was adding. I chose to use one of the extra, unused factory circuit breakers. They are wired through a relay so that the pumps only have power while the boat power switch is activated. I plumbed everything with 1 1/8 hose and fittings with a few exceptions. I was unable to find any anti-siphon loops bigger than 1 1/8. I was instructed by a couple places to just heat the hose up and tighten down the hose clamps, let the hose cool. I chose to then remove the hose, put in a film of silicone and reinstall them. Also I had the hose from the bag to the empty pump I used an adapter that is sized at 3/4. I may decide to change this if I find the empty overly slow. I also chose to put 1 1/4 aluminum angle iron on the back side of the engine divider panels to make sure they don't pop out of the factory panel brackets.

I decided I wanted a double surf board rack. I wanted to use the factory bracket and didn't want to drop a huge amount of money into the project. I ordered a Krypt Towers - Double Wakesurf/Surfboard Tower Rack for $130.00 off Amazon. I matched the angle of the straight edge on the back side of the forks and it worked out really well. Eventually I may do a little modifying to make it look closer to stock. First picture shows one old and one new rack. Second is both new racks installed.