Setter

The gates are made of 3/4"HPDE. They are 14" tall at the hull and taper to 12.5" at the back and are 19" long. I really want to make them look factory so I made myself a set of decals that are similar to the factory gate decal. I decided to counter sink and tap threads in the gates. This allowed me to make them flush. I also loctited them and then put epoxy in the heads so its smooth, this allows the decals to be smooth over them. After mounting the first tab I chose to make a template using the swim platform and hull to transfer it to the other side. I ordered a set of the Lenco Fast servos from MMI Marine. After a lot of research I chose to go with two 3" hinges. Most people say that screws are fine but I chose to go with bolts and backing plates. From prior fiberglass experience I went with multiple lighter plates. This reduces the risk of applying to much pressure at a specific point. For a control system I chose to go with a the Arduino system. I am very comfortable with the wiring but not the programming so I chose to have the board programmed. I a also like redundancy so I chose to include a set of hard wire switches so if the system decides not to work at any time I can turn that system off and run the tabs in and out manually. The control system is the only portion that I do not have completely finished. I am just waiting on a few minor parts to finish it up and it should be ready. I will add additional pictures of this after it is done.

Being the main driver of the boat I prefer to have control of the stereo. Since my boat does not have Bluetooth I decided to run a 20ft Aux cable from the glove box to the drivers seat storage area. Now I can change the songs from my phone while driving. I left plenty of extra so it can be ran to the seat behind the driver or put a mount on the windshield. I also like to change the tower speaker volume so I relocated the control to the drivers side. This only required the purchase of two 20ft rca cables. Since I was already mounting the ballast switches as well as the surf gate controls on the same area I chose to make a bracket and label made to put them all together.

Looking for an extra ballast option I chose to install 2 additional ballast bags. I decided to go with two 750lbs bags, one in each locker. I knew I wanted to have them hard wired and plumbed. I chose to go with Shurflo Piranha 1100gph pumps. For controls switches I chose to make make a panel to have all of the controls I was adding. I chose to use one of the extra, unused factory circuit breakers. They are wired through a relay so that the pumps only have power while the boat power switch is activated. I plumbed everything with 1 1/8 hose and fittings with a few exceptions. I was unable to find any anti-siphon loops bigger than 1 1/8. I was instructed by a couple places to just heat the hose up and tighten down the hose clamps, let the hose cool. I chose to then remove the hose, put in a film of silicone and reinstall them. Also I had the hose from the bag to the empty pump I used an adapter that is sized at 3/4. I may decide to change this if I find the empty overly slow. I also chose to put 1 1/4 aluminum angle iron on the back side of the engine divider panels to make sure they don't pop out of the factory panel brackets.

I decided I wanted a double surf board rack. I wanted to use the factory bracket and didn't want to drop a huge amount of money into the project. I ordered a Krypt Towers - Double Wakesurf/Surfboard Tower Rack for $130.00 off Amazon. I matched the angle of the straight edge on the back side of the forks and it worked out really well. Eventually I may do a little modifying to make it look closer to stock. First picture shows one old and one new rack. Second is both new racks installed.