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TFreeman

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TFreeman last won the day on July 13

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About TFreeman

  • Rank
    Project Hack
  • Birthday July 2

Boat Info

  • Boat
    83 ski nautique 08 Supra

Location

  • Location
    Dallas GA

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  1. The factory installed cooler on this boat was a cool idea, really a huge space for more than enough cold storage than I would need but it warmed up quickly. Even on a cloudy 65* day it couldn't keep ice for more than a couple hours. No pics here but I pulled out the bin they call a cooler and it's only about 3/16" fiberglass bin with a layer of carpet around it and a 3/4" drain that dumps in the bilge. I installed a ball valve on the drain is rather keep the cold water in than have nothing. I then got a roll of the bubble insulation and tape for about $30 and wrapped the bin. I then used a piece laid over the top of our items to insulate the top. (Sorry about that awful pic) I used it like this for a couple months now with vast improvement over the original set up. Today I decided to use the leftovers and lined the inside of the compartment around the bin with an additional layer of insulation. I reinstalled the bin and added two layers of insulation to the bottom of the seat cushion over top. I'm expecting great results. We do use cooler shock ice packs so I can't speak for straight ice but the beers stay cold all day.
  2. There's a vertical piece that fills the gap between the seatback and the driver side panel. It's attached toward the top through the gunwale. The seatback then got an L bracket in to that piece. As well as the seat base mounts through the floor and attaching to the seatback in the original location
  3. Never would have guessed that one haha. Appreciate it
  4. This project takes the rear facing 2 person seat out from behind the drivers seat and flips it to the full wrap around v drive configuration. Increasing floor space tremendously. Puts the drivers seat on a pedestal. Start by tearing out the factory bases. I trimmed the factory seatback piece to roughly about 12 inches I then trimmed up the factory seat base. I think I removed 3-1/2" from the long side. Then when I got the right amount off the short side it got in to the curve causing it to be short. Fixed it with a little spacer Mounted the pedestal for the drivers seat. For me this was a major upgrade. My eyes were dead in line with the top of the windshield before. This gave me a 4" increase in height at the lowest position. It raises as well as the bolster. Also, now it can swivel with out contacting the panel. I didn't take any pics but the cushion was notched out to clear the back rest and I filled in the factory spot with extra foam and HDPE from notching the base. The panel beside the drivers seat has been loose at the bottom since I got this boat. Makes a lot of noise in rough water. I trimmed the bottom so I could finish it out with 90* angles instead of having to think. Best pic I have of it is below, three screws straight down in to the base secured the bottom. (Not pictured) Next I cut out behind the back rest to make a storage cubby mimicking the original just tiny. Then Frankensteined the original backrest to finish out the project. There was a courtesy light inside it originally that may find it's way in to the boat somewhere. Overall I'm very happy with it.
  5. If I recall correctly my controller has a plug. The rest of the rest of the lighting is ultimately spliced back together and plugs straight in to the controller
  6. Nope. So at the wakeboard speed the wake is fine. There is some spray that comes through the platform. As speed increases (towards 40) the spray turns in to a rooster tail. 😂 Looks stupid
  7. 1983 ski nautique 2001. Needs a deipless shaft seal. Wheels and tires on the trailer.
  8. According to the wakemakers listing for thru-hull intakes, the 1-1/4" can carry 5900 gallons per hour vs 2200 on the 1". I went that route because at the time of the pic I was planning to eventually add a third pump. I ended up adding it sooner then expected and never took a pic, right now I have two 1200, and an 800 running off the intake. It's been fine. Also I did have some airlock and have since rotated the pumps and added a vent inline on the hose.
  9. I'll snag a pic of them un-lit next time the cover is off. They look good. I'm really pretty pleased
  10. After spending a couple seasons filling and drain nearly 2k lbs of ballast every time we were out I wanted to automate it bit. The issue with this on a direct drive boat is the lack of compartments to hide bags in, as well as the amount of space the rolled up bags took up on my boat at least. For a standard DD configuration I would do trap doors on both sides as pictured below. This allows the bag to be connected and ready to fill, and keeps it from taking up precious storage space on my small boat when empty. In order to supply the bags you need an intake under the water line, a shut off, I needed a street elbow, and I needed to make a manifold for the fill pumps. I believe I went with 1-1/4" bronze mushroom thru hull, my elbow and ball valve are stainless, I know different metals... i am also running an additional T and one more pump. In addition to the fill pumps, on an aerator system you need a drain pump and an outlet, as well as a vent. I did not combine the two and have 3 thru hulls per side . These can be located closer to the bag and cut down on needed hose length. You also need to wire switches to operate the pumps I chose to go with what wakemakers offers I would recommend using quick connects on your bags as well, flow-rite is the manufacturer and they are very cheap to order straight from them. I am running a spring check valve on each vent line, the pressure need to overcome the spring stops the bag from syphon draining once the pumps are off. Also on the fill lines, I have spring check valves, one fills from the bottom and the other from the top. The top fill bag can syphon draining, the bottom fill bag will gravity drain back out the intake without the check valve. With the bottom fill bag, I had a priming issue, idk which of the two solved the problem, but I added a vent prior to the check valve, and I turned the outlet on the pump to the top. And a final side note, since my layout is not standard I have only one trap door, one bag in a compartment and the rear rolls up under a folding step in the center.
  11. So obviously the interior LEDs are a cool upgrade, but they can be very very pricey, especially on a boat that's on the low end of the price scale. I ended up doing some research and found a couple guys that used the semi-clear water line for appliances like an ice maker. I stole that idea. This stuff is cheap, $5-10 for a roll, Wich will do at least 15 cupholders. I used the 1/4" ID for cup holders and 3/8" ID for the speakers, the 3/8 wouldn't make the bend for the cupholders I found out later. I'm not going to get in to the wiring too much. I used waterproof rgb strip LEDs, rgb wiring and connectors. I put connectors at each light location as well as between each piece so I could leave for instance the 3 cupholders and speaker hooked up and remove the interior piece they are mounted in. For the cup holder rings, I used 1/4" aluminum rod cut to about an inch long to connect each end of tubing (pics are of steel rod with flaking white paint on it used temporarily). It is absolutely necessary to heat each tube up to make the bend, and press each end on the rod about half way. Without heating it, the tubing tries to straighten out and splits to a point of failure, so I got to them all twice. The LEDs stick around the cupholders, then drop in to the ring, and in to their mounting location. For the speakers, I didn't take any pics, but I used the larger hose, the 1/4" fits inside it almost perfectly, I added a bit of hot glue to each side to join the ends together. The mounting screws also run through the tube. There's not a good place to stick the LEDs like on the cupholders so the I sized the strips to a point where they basically held themselves against the tubing, then as it was tightened down, the vinyl behind them holds them tight, so far so good. There is also one strip in the storage cubby by the motor, the led strip is pressed in to a piece of aluminum c channel for a very snug fit. Last little note, there are words printed on the tubing, a little rubbing with my fingers took it right off.
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