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TimbrSS

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TimbrSS last won the day on May 6

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About TimbrSS

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    Project Hack

Boat Info

  • Boat
    2006 Malibu 247

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  • Location
    Charlotte, NC

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  1. No. I just swapped a complete V-drive unit. It' pretty straight forward in my case with the Walter V-drive. I would have had it done in a day if I didn't need to replace a slightly leaking transmission seal that I found when I pulled the V-drive. I also updated to a dripless shaft seal and new strut bushings at the same time, since you have to drop the shaft anyways. But after sliding my gas tank back to give a few inches, it was pretty much just a quick Remove and replace deal.
  2. This is what I waste my "go fast" money on:
  3. I considered doing that stuff, but after changing out the v-drive gear set to a 1.48:1, I don't need anything else.
  4. You could do it. I wouldn't want to. You would probably just make it louder and piss everyone off. A loud speedboat is ok, if it just drives by and goes to the other end of the lake. A wakeboat going back and forth for an hour or two would be annoying. Youd probably buy a 3rd set of Rev 10's and crank the music up louder to gear over the exhaust. Go ahead and do it, but not on my lake please.
  5. I've had FAE exhaust for years and always wanted to get around to a muffler delete. 1, because the muffler kind of becomes redundant with FAE, and some people noticed a bit of a power bump, and/or an actual sound decrease from the engine bay. Both of those sound good to me. Finally found time to get it done. This was just a quick fix, and most certainly not the cheapest, or most extravagant way to get it done. But the ease and time of putting it together was the main driver of my product selection. I didn't like the FAE muffler delete with the mitered 45* angles... The high performance engine guy I am would let that happen. The cheapest acceptable way to me would be to get about 4' of stainless and make a bunch of 7.5* pie cuts, form the proper s bends, and then weld away... Probably less than $100, but would take me at least 8 hours a side, cutting, welding, and running back and forth to boat for test fits. I decided on a combo of metal and rubber 45* bends to get the job done. The 8.1 has a 4" tube coming out of the exhaust riser to muffler input, and a 3.5" outlet from muffler to transom exit. So I went with a 4" stainless mandrel bent 45, a marine rated 45* rubber elbow, and a stainless 4" to 3.5" reducer. I cut off 2.25" from the rubber 90* 3.5" hose that went from the muffler to transom exit, and put in new 7.5" long (factory length was 9") 4" hose from the riser to the stainless 90. The stainless 45* bends were $56 each (vibrant 13104) Amazon The rubber 45* elbows with clamps were $62 each. (Trident Marine. Amazon.) The 4"-3.5" t304 stainless reducers were from ebay $20 each. So $276 before tax. I ended up cutting 3.5 or so inches off each end of the stainless bends. Turned out nice, and probably 4 hours max putting it together. I started it up on a fake a lake, but didn't put it in the water yet, so I have no idea what difference it makes. I'll have to update in a few weeks. In this pic from top to bottom: 1. 3.5" Rubber 90 transom exhaust exit to muffler 2. 4" - 3.5" reducer 3. 4" 45* rubber 4. 4" 45 stainless 5. 4" straight rubber to riser.
  6. Wow, turned out great! That bracket is really nice!
  7. I know I told you already how much I like this project. I really appreciate the effort of pro level mods like this. Some people are OK with PVC Surfpipes and harbor freight/home Depot suck gates, that give DIY a negative connotation, I'm glad you hold yourself to a higher standard.
  8. Awesome project, Battery install looks great. Also interested in the closed cooling system upgrade you did.
  9. It's mounted off the through bolts for the rear grab handle.
  10. Great write up, Thanks for posting. My non SC unit showed up yesterday. I think I'll do the strut seals while I'm at it.. Hopefully next week, along with my v-drive install.
  11. Thought I'd add a bunch of pics from my WaveContol install. This system is awesome, and the wave is rockin'. I have all the skills to make my own system, but really not the time for R&D. This seemed like a great option for me. Yes, it's expensive... but way cheaper than a new boat. It could possibly be better wave than surfgate or slappers... I guess that's debatable. It took a weekend to install. It comes with instruction and templates, but I'd advise not using the templates... install tabs 4" in from the side, extend the actuator all the way. Attach it to the tab. Angle tab down to 11* and hold actuator against the boat then mark and install it to the boat there. (the template was off and I had to adjust the actuator mounting bracket on the tab to prevent binding... I wasn't going to drill additional holes in the boat.) I mounted the control box up under the dash and made a hpde bracket to mount control panel under my ballast switches. More import are the results: 100% love my Wave Control2006 Malibu 247 8.1LWakemakers Wave Control (GSA)Power Wedge (400-1200#)Full Malibu under floor ballast: 250 rear lockers, 650 center, 350 bow.910# locker bags1000# bow triangle400# lead in front of locker bags100# lead lives under bow seat11.4 mphSo that's 5000# plus the wedge. I'll drop a little rear weight/wedge if I have crew so i can maintain speed. Even if im light on crew when i run 60-75% of max weight, wave is still pretty dang good.GSA back 4 clicks for either side works well (it would be nice to just have it default to that position.)I'm more than satisfied with my wave, (Cambridge scientists actually hate me for it), and the system has been 100% reliable.I never thought it'd be of much value, but we just randomly started doing transfers last week and had a blast doing it... Adds a new dimension to the game.https://youtu.be/nJ1Y11eQXsA
  12. The swim platform on my 247 was loose. The original aluminum brackets had worn out, allowing the platform to move about 3-4" up and down as the waves would hit the boat. It was pretty annoying. You can see the gap here. The aluminum was originally anodized to help protect it, but mine was worn out. I contemplated making my own brackets, or simply running a bolt through the step side bracket, but ultimately I decided to upgrade to the newer stainless brackets from the newer model boats, thinking it would be a simple bolt on repair. It would be expensive, but I thought it would save time. I was wrong. I ended up having to modify the new brackets to match my current holes in the boat. I used bracket #4724222 (from Andrew at Bakes) To finish off the project, I removed the old black rubber pad on the swim step, and replaced with a seadek pad. The new equipment looks much better, and platform is still solid after 3 years.
  13. Nice!!! I can certainly appreciate a good LS Build. You got some great parts and picked great people to work with like Tick and AI. Great write up and nice pics. Nice and clean and well thought out. Here's my current project, 347 LS6 with F1R Procharger in a C5:
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