I started with 2x4x8 cedar from Home Depot. I copied my elevation off a ronix koal. I cut all the boards the same to the elevation pattern on the band saw. I then lined them all up and clamped them from below. I used the same ronix to “foot print” an outline and cut it with a jig saw. Using the rough board I was able to find where would be best to put my oak dowels and figure my lengths . I was able to use four. Lots of planning so the dowels would be “buried” in the board by at least 3/4”. I then used a drill press to cut the holes for the dowels and only hole depth on the outside boards. I then used the drill press to make 1 1/4 deep 3/4 diameter holes through out the entire board but not going all the way through. In theory it’s mostly hollow but because I didn’t go all the way through, it’s chambered. In theory if one hole fails and fills with water, it will only effect that hole. From here I beat the oak dowels in and glued the heck out of it with titebond 3. Once everything was sandwiched together, I clamped it and let it sit for a week. Once unclamped I used a DT automotive sander with 40 grit sand To smooth the top and bottom. Once the rough contour was done, I used a router to round the sides. From here I used smother sand paper and lighter machines. IE. went from the DT to a belt sander to a orbital to block sanding while also using lighter and lighter sand paper all the way to 600grit. I drilled my holes for the fins using the ronix as a guide. There was a lot of butt puckering at this stage. I finished with around 10 coats of poly on both sides. When poly’ing one side I put painters tape 3/4 the way down the side effectively putting 20 coats on the sides and avoiding drips. Between coats, I block sanded with 400 grit per manufacture instructions. I epoxied the anchors for the fins and used the fins themselves for alignment. After that I stuck the dakine pads down and project done. Thanks for having me. I hope I did this right.
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