jtryon

looks awesome!

thanks!

yes a 3.5" round weld-on end is perfect, because i'll be welding a single 3.5" tube to it rather than duals like you did. 12" long is great and I can trim from the top if needed, and the outlet end the same shape as yours as well, or if it's easier to do a straight angled cut on the outlet that's perfectly fine as well.

The 3.5” formed down pipe would be awesome because I’m sure it will be hard to get an exhaust or fab shop around here to make that exact piece.

great work! did you make that hydraulic press shaper to narrow the down tube just for this project? if they're easy enough to reproduce just the narrowed downpipe i would gladly pay you for it. i'm converting my centurion sideswipe exhaust to a single rear outlet (4" downtubes to 3.5" exit) and am not looking forward to having to shop around to my local exhaust shops to have that downpipe done.

sent ya a PM in case you are able to make me one of these..

i have a GPS coming that will be delivered today and i should know if it's working by tomorrow as well. jhartt, on the GPS i'm using here, it has external male pins so all you need is a female/female jumper pins from the board to the GPS and you're good to go with no soldering.

tested on my board and working great! i'll order up a GPS and test that in my car once it comes in, to make sure speed input and everything is working. i also found a better rotary encoder than the ones i previously used, which had always seemed to crap out easily so i don't trust them in a marine environment. jon had also said his testers had the same problem with the rotarys working reliably. i'll order one of these and see if it works better: https://www.digikey.com/en/videos/p/panasonic/waterproof-encoder great job justin!

functionally it is working in the console output, but the integrated motor pins still aren't putting out voltage when they should. admittedly i stopped working on it for the past month, but want to pick it back up because i have a couple things to try after doing some more research. i hope to have an update in another week or so.

great idea, do you have a template for this?

so i have the board behaving correctly finally in the arduino serial monitor, deploying left and right without the errors i was getting for the past week. however, only two of the motor driver outputs are putting out voltage on retraction or deployment of the switch, but i can't get more than two functions to work at a time. for instance, i can get left retract and right retract voltage, or left deploy and right retract voltage, etc. but never a single side deploy/retract voltage. when i look at the roMeo pinout and read up on it, the functions say they are for a motor control and directional control, which i'm not sure translates to a polarity-reversing 12v motor like the lenco's we're trying to drive. pinout of the motor driver below. does anyone have experience with this romeo board and/or a general idea if this motor controller is even capable of working how we want it to? Pin Function Digital 4 Motor 1 Direction control Digital 5 Motor 1 PWM control Digital 6 Motor 2 PWM control Digital 7 Motor 2 Direction control

i bought the new all-in-one board last week and attempted to upload the code to it today. after changing some of the pinouts once i read up a little on the dfrobot site, the new board took the code upload without any of the initial errors i was getting, which is good. i'm going to grab my bench testing switches, LED's, etc. from the boat garage this week and see if this thing works as is, and will update everyone on progress.

just saw this because i'm prepping to install an FAE-style exhaust myself after ripping out sideswipe last night (centurion typhoon). really got my gears turning because i was planning on cutting two holes in the transom for a traditional-style FAE, but I may just do a single after seeing this. thanks for the idea!

thanks. a lot of recommendations on the makita 9227C as well. guess i should pony up and buy a nice one off the rip.