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jtryon last won the day on February 8

jtryon had the most liked content!

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About jtryon

  • Rank
    Project Hack
  • Birthday 09/30/1981

Boat Info

  • Boat
    2007 centurion typhoon


  • Location
    Farmington, CT

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  1. sent ya a PM in case you are able to make me one of these..
  2. i have a GPS coming that will be delivered today and i should know if it's working by tomorrow as well. jhartt, on the GPS i'm using here, it has external male pins so all you need is a female/female jumper pins from the board to the GPS and you're good to go with no soldering.
  3. tested on my board and working great! i'll order up a GPS and test that in my car once it comes in, to make sure speed input and everything is working. i also found a better rotary encoder than the ones i previously used, which had always seemed to crap out easily so i don't trust them in a marine environment. jon had also said his testers had the same problem with the rotarys working reliably. i'll order one of these and see if it works better: https://www.digikey.com/en/videos/p/panasonic/waterproof-encoder great job justin!
  4. functionally it is working in the console output, but the integrated motor pins still aren't putting out voltage when they should. admittedly i stopped working on it for the past month, but want to pick it back up because i have a couple things to try after doing some more research. i hope to have an update in another week or so.
  5. great idea, do you have a template for this?
  6. so i have the board behaving correctly finally in the arduino serial monitor, deploying left and right without the errors i was getting for the past week. however, only two of the motor driver outputs are putting out voltage on retraction or deployment of the switch, but i can't get more than two functions to work at a time. for instance, i can get left retract and right retract voltage, or left deploy and right retract voltage, etc. but never a single side deploy/retract voltage. when i look at the roMeo pinout and read up on it, the functions say they are for a motor control and directional control, which i'm not sure translates to a polarity-reversing 12v motor like the lenco's we're trying to drive. pinout of the motor driver below. does anyone have experience with this romeo board and/or a general idea if this motor controller is even capable of working how we want it to? Pin Function Digital 4 Motor 1 Direction control Digital 5 Motor 1 PWM control Digital 6 Motor 2 PWM control Digital 7 Motor 2 Direction control
  7. i bought the new all-in-one board last week and attempted to upload the code to it today. after changing some of the pinouts once i read up a little on the dfrobot site, the new board took the code upload without any of the initial errors i was getting, which is good. i'm going to grab my bench testing switches, LED's, etc. from the boat garage this week and see if this thing works as is, and will update everyone on progress.
  8. just saw this because i'm prepping to install an FAE-style exhaust myself after ripping out sideswipe last night (centurion typhoon). really got my gears turning because i was planning on cutting two holes in the transom for a traditional-style FAE, but I may just do a single after seeing this. thanks for the idea!
  9. thanks. a lot of recommendations on the makita 9227C as well. guess i should pony up and buy a nice one off the rip.
  10. any recommendations on an inexpensive-but-good rotary buffer to use for this? or which specs to look for when selecting one?
  11. I would shorten the down pipe to be about level with the prop nut, and would bring the whole thing as close to the taps plate as you can without interfering with it up and down.
  12. i need to measure but they are either 3.5 or 4". mine would be a little different than the pics because i have a catalytic convertor, so it might just be one bend after the cat which would attach to the thru-hull exit. i didn't even think about buying a pre-made stainless elbow...that's a great idea to keep the engine bay a little cleaner looking of an install.
  13. i would just being making the elbows out of PVC and keeping the rest the marine exhaust hose, which is the same thing FAE does for these conversions. i attached a couple pics of what FAE sent me for their conversion. i suppose i could use that flexible rubber exhaust hose for the turns instead too. thanks for the thoughts on sched 40 ratings--i also thought that pressure had a lot to do with the rating but wanted someone to ease my mind. 🤘
  14. never had a single problem with mine warping. keep in mind these are in the water, so if there was some sort of temperature threshold that they start warping, you'll never reach it because of the lake water keeping them cool. that being said, they never even feel warm when running off a hose in the driveway either. question for everyone: i just got a 2007 centurion with sideswipe exhaust and want to convert back to this style. FAE offers a complete kit for $880 which includes 4 elbows (2 x 3.5”/ 2 x 4.0”)and 2 cover plates and a one-piece Y FAE, through hull, no external bracing. their kit re-uses the stock sideswipe hoses, so essentially the engine bay parts they supply are just two thru-hulls and two elbows for each side. i'd like to keep it inexpensive and just do my own FAE with the same schedule 40 black PVC, but am wondering how that will fare internally in the engine compartment since it won't be cooled naturally like the external piping. sched 40 is rated for 140 degrees. water running through the engine comes in at a max lake/river temp of 90 degrees mid-summer (let's say), and exits out the exhaust within a few seconds. if i have a 170 degree thermostat, what temp would you say the water coming out of the engine is at the most? is the heat of a v-drive engine bay as much of a potential issue for a couple PVC elbows as the water running through the elbows?
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