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  • 2009 mobius lsv ballast install


    Livewire
    • Year: 2009 Brand: Moomba Model / Trim: LSV Cost: $1000-$1499 Ballast Modifications: Fat sac(s), Pump(s), Hose, Switches, Wiring, Fittings DIY or Professional Install: I installed it / created it

    Hopefully this will help someone else out wanting to do the same thing. I was tired of throwing a pump over the side of my boat to fill my rear sacs up so I decided to plumb them in this winter and started project last weekend. I could not find a thread for this specific boat and set up so I pieced things together from pictures and watching the gravity III ballast upgrade on wakemakers site which i do not have I only have one center ballast bag. I ordered all my stuff from wakemakers and chose to go with reversible pumps. I will say one thing spend the extra money and use the plug and wake kit they sell I chose not to and ended up buying the same deutsch dtp connectors they use so pretty much shot myself in the foot there having to make all those connectors up. But ifYou donÂ’t mind making the connections up or you can use different style connectors and order the wire from amazon. The only reason I used the same connectors is because IÂ’m going to add there timers to system. also if you need a crimping tool for closed barrel connectors I got one off amazon literally 10 times cheaper than expensive ones and it worked fine not building an airplane over here it was called iswiss or something. I have an intake for each pump so i can fill my bags all at the same time so yes i drilled two additional holes in the bottom of my boat. yes i was nervous about this step. and still am because i havent put the boat in the water yet but i will update everyone on that later. originally i ordered two reversible pumps and was going to replace center bag aerator pump with reversable later but i did not like that all my intakes werent going to be in a straight line and one was going to be on opposite side of other two so i removed aerator pump and ordered my third reversable so now thru hull intakes are all on the same side and in straight line i believe one is 5" center to center and other is 4.5 I used 1” hose for fill lines and 3/4 for vent 3/4” hose is a lot easier to work with if you decide to go that route. 
    Use a 1 1/16” whole saw instead of 1 1/8 if you go with 3/4 thru Hull fittings you can buy one on amazon some local hardware stores may have it mine did or wakemakers sells them as well. I decided to purchase a fuse block and go that route 1) it looks cleaner in my opinion and I only have two wires running from battery side of boat instead of 6 and I connected positive to battery switch that way the kids cant bump switches and turn them on by accident that is if the switch is in off position. I am aware that there is a positive and negative bus above the fuse block I installed but the positive side is powered by 10 gauge wire and I did not feel like tracing it through the bird nest of wires under dash to upgrade it. I went with 6awg wire to power fuse block that way I can add things later if needed. If you go with 1” ballast hose and use the quick release bag connectors you will need a heat gun like it says on wakemakers website. To mount my switches I decided to mount them right under the drivers seat there is a black plastic piece that unscrews to access the seat to take it off I just bought a piece of plexy glass from LoweÂ’s cut it and decided to mount switches there for now was easier then where I was going to mount them I can always move them if I want. If you have any questions let me know and I’ll try and answer them I will post the link to YouTube video. The YouTube is just pictures with some writing I did not record entire project.

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    Definitely gonna be helpful to others.  Thanks for the great write up.  Love the magnet idea too.

    You're gonna be stoked with that setup!  Hit the button and fill!

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