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Project Comments posted by Rugger
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I know he sold the boat so I doubt he’s still on the forums until he gets another....
but I think he got that from ultralon as well, it could be from just a sample sheet. I know agenda surf has small pieces you can order as well
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Nice work on this. That tower looks great as well on that boat. So is that a Monster Bimini as well?
We swapped towers on my boat as well... took some work but worth it in the end. Thanks for posting this
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On 7/11/2018 at 10:09 AM, Timr71 said:
Nice job. I have a different issue with my rudder. I have pitting on my rudder shaft and that creates slop in my rudder. I think i'm going to have to replace the rudder and the box in order to get it firmed up. It's not too bad now, a little slop at the steering wheel, but feels pretty good when under power. And, it's not leaking water into the bilge so it's sealed up tight. That'll be a winter project some year.
Try contacting GLIDE Bearings about rebuilding / upgrading your existing rudder setup. It might be an option that will be worth it in savings. Tim is the man.
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16 minutes ago, rhino89523 said:
Yeah when I was talking with them I was hoping they would replace a few sheets for free...that wasn't offered so I'm pretty much thinking different brand. I am just not feeling the look of the dimpled stuff the way I love the look of this faux teak...but I am a function over fashion kind of guy.
You could call or email them and point a link to these projects -- they should pay attention. I know people here and other sites were staying away from it after Hyperryd mentioned his diamond pattern peeling. If they now have a better product at a much better price than most, then perhaps they'll want to get that message out there? Worth a shot.
Or just turn the page and get something else. I hear you on the teak... looks sooo awesome.
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Gotcha... in that case then, I think the decision is made. I agree... I'd go w/ different brand unless they are wiling to replace order for free. Bummer.
I'm a clutz, so if you slipped I probably would too. Good info.
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How much of adhesive issue was due to floor prep vs the brand do you think? Thoughts would be to prep it differently... but that depends on answer above.
That miners Moss is growing on me to be honest. The simplicity of it might win me over... but it certainly doesn’t look as good as the brown/reddish teak and black EVA
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5 hours ago, bporangepeel said:
Hi Hyperryd
do you make and sell the whole set up?
Might be worth a PM directly to him on something like that
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That looks fantastic. Strong work. I’m surprised we don’t see a lot more hdpe decks... especially with all the diy surf gates.
My only hesitation was whether the 3m backed pads would stick well enough. Shoulds like that hasn’t been a problem... I know the king starboard people told me you can heat treat it first to make a better bond as well.
Great work!
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That’s looks amazing. One of best of this style we’ve seen. Nice work and thanks for posting. Sure to be copied!
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I don’t know why wakemakers didn’t recommend multiple feeds off of one larger inlet. Maybe it was to sell more thru-hulls or maybe I just talked to a new guy.
1.25” can pull a lot of water!
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@TFreeman I'm liking the 1 1/4" ball valve. I did the same on mine even though Wakemakers discouraged me from doing that.... My thoughts were I might add a second pump to mine which is what it looks like you did. Didn't want another hole...Should be plenty of water coming through!
Works well that way?
Mine is impeller pump though... not sure why it would matter
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That's a great trick. Looks awesome. My previous swim deck had something like that tubing on it with LEDs running underneath along the edge. I haven't redone that since I switched to the surf gate deck, but I know it worked great. It was more clear though, since it was underwater and didn't need to be translucent.
Speaker LED rings are not cheap, so I'm sure those reading this post will definitely thank you for this idea.
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Looks awesome @Max 1.6 ! I dig the matching color.
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2 hours ago, Brad Beyer said:
What year is that 211? I have an 04 and I'm being told the 2006 version is slightly different than the 04. If that is an 04 or 05 was this direct ordered from Seadek? Thanks for any help on this!
I think @LIVE2WAKE is a dealer as well so should be able to answer
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Thanks. It’ll be nice not to worry about seals/bearings maintenance for a long time. Plus my boat runs smoother than ever... I didn’t realize before but it probably needed at least the strut bearings replaced for a while. But it was a little work and a few bloody knuckles in the process.
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Looks really nice! Thanks for sharing. Makes me wish I a gelcoated floor! Mine won’t be so simple.
Not a bad price for a new floor!! You must be stoked.
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That’s definitely gonna make some 210 owners very happy!! Post the installation! You’ve got this thing down for sure.
I think most people are intimidated by the nss system as a retro. Nautique by far has the best looking surf system I think... not going to get into which is “best”. Too many variables and hull differences. They all work great.
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12 hours ago, 2008_247lsv said:
winterizing takes about 5 min
these engines are car engines and were designed to have antifreeze running in them
no corrosion in the block when you run antifreeze
even if you forgot to winterize all you can really screw up in the heat exchanger and manifolds
and I really did not have any bleeding issues for the most part. the first few time out I kept some antifreeze with me and topped it off every time I would stop, but I think that was just some air in the lines going up to the heater, I never overheated or had any problems really
only downside is the shower kits do not work once you have closed cooling, but the good news is that it just forces you to remove the shower that is never used anyway and free up space
huh... good idea. I get it.
We always forget we have that shower to be honest. This project is on my radar. Thanks for posting
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Looks like a helluva job. Nice work.
No bleeding issues? I know the newer boats w/ cooled had some issues where they had to bleed the system first.
What would you say is best benefit to the closed cooling system, if you don’t run salt water. Less chance of error?
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On 6/21/2018 at 7:50 PM, Cdubb77 said:
That looks awesome !!
Thanks! And thanks for contributing to the original build thread
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Nice! Love it. You’ve got a tricky transom shape but pulled it off nicely
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On 6/15/2018 at 8:11 AM, JoeBu said:
I have a 2011 23 LSV and I believe the dull shape is the same as yours. I'm wondering how mounting the hinges went being that there are virtually no flat surfaces to mount to. Did you have to make adjustments to the hinges or did you just screw them in? Any photos of this would be hugely helpful. Also, I'd be curious to know what specific hinge you went with.
@JoeBuI screwed them in... probably could have used a very slight spacer/adjustment. But it works fine as is. I'll try to take a better look and get a pic for you. Don't get too caught up on hinges, many work. Heavier, welded pin is better. Think mine were just 3" butt hinge, 1/8" thick. But some might work better. With the curve in hull, may want to position at top most and bottom most of gate. And if I recall set it up with gate extended where it would have least clearance. I'll take a look when I can... hope that helps for now. Feel free to ask or PM for more.
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Thanks for posting this. Really like it. Want that MC1 but gonna have to wait... I spent this summer's money I think. lol But it sure would be nice.
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Yeah this is a no joke project. Ambitious and he pulled it off nicely.
Fixing Gel Coat Spider Cracks 2002 Malibu VLX
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in Fiberglass & Gelcoat Projects
Posted
Awesome job. I'll post mine too... although my gelcoat was black and you can kinda see the cracks still even though it's perfectly smooth and was color matched. I think another summer in the sun will fix that though... and yes I'm the only one who even notices/sees it. Much better than cracks!
Another good trick is to drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, to keep the underlying crack from continuing. Then fill in with gel coat, etc.