LIVE2WAKE

Yeah that's a good idea! It's super simple to remove too.

Hello, I started by removing the rubber non slip pads near the bow pass through. Once I got all the adhesive off I made templates for all the flooring. I designed and fabricated the flooring off of the templates. I had to reach out to centurion to ask if I could use their logo in the kit. They agreed, and i started fabrication. Once i had the completed product i removed all the snaps and blew the boat out. Next I thoroughly cleaned the floors and gunnels with windex and then denatured alcohol. Once i was satisfied with the floors i started laying down the flooring. I like to fold the backing back to reveal about 1" of the adhesive. Then i place the part on the deck and get my alignment. Once i am satisfied with the alignment i will tack the piece and peel the remainder of the backing off to install the rest of the piece. The gunnel strips are a bit tricky. I pull the backing back and reveal about 1" of the adhesive for the whole length of the part. Then i tack it on the ends and in the middle trying to maintain an even reveal. These are easy to make look wavy. I typically work from bow to stern ensuring that the reveals are even as i go. Once the kit was installed i blew the boat out with a shop blower and it was ready to hit the lake. -Donovan

Hello Everyone, I started out by creating custom templates. I have a prodim machine that I used to create the templates but you could also create them with mylar film and a sharpie. I designed and fabricated the flooring off of the templates. Once I had the completed product, I removed the snap in carpet and all the snaps. Next I thoroughly cleaned the floor with windex and then again with denatured alcohol. Next I peeled off all of the stock natique mats on swim platform and stern steps. I did this mostly by hand and with a little help from a putty knife and 9 in 1 tool. Those natique mats left a bunch of adhesive residue and a black ring around all of the inlays so I buffed it out with some rubbing compound for about an hour and a half. Once I had the surface adequately prepared for the flooring to go down on, I started placing each piece. I like to work from bow to stern. It took me about an hour and a half to install all the flooring. I start by peeling the backing on the flooring back and creasing it to reveal about 1 " of the adhesive. Next I place the piece down on the deck and the creased backing does a good job of keeping the adhesive from touching the deck while i get my alignment. Once i feel that it is aligned properly i will tack the adhesive in a few spots. Next i take a step back and make sure the alignment is good. Once i am satisfied i will set the adhesive and then remove the rest of the backing. Next i run my hand over the product back and forth setting the adhesive and trying to work out any bubbles. After i have the piece down i press the beveled edge very hard all the way around to ensure a good bond with the deck. Once all the pieces were down i blew the boat out with a blower and it was ready to hit the lake! -Donovan

"Wow that is beautiful. Like you said, it’s a brand new boat! Seeing this post is gonna cause a lot of people to spend money!! Was the Seadek cut from their templates? Or did you have to customize it? Love the blue contrast. Thanks for sharing" We made our own templates, you can too with mylar film and a sharpie

Covered the seat rail with 3mm brushed black SeaDek.

My 2006 Malibu 23XTI had tiered worn out carpet. Upholstery need work to so we ripped out the complete interior. Removed every stick of carpet from the boat. Prepped floors with a quality Primer and paint. Installed custom fabricated Seadek in Stormy Grey over Bimini Blue with Hexagon pattern. Then installed the interiors with new upholstery by MR J's Upholstery (No referrals as he's my father and he's retired) . End result. Brand new boat that looks fresh, is super comfortable and way easy to clean at the end of the day on the lake.