dcwilson

Dang that looks great! I want to go down this same road with my boat someday but I don't know if my CAD skills would be up to it. 

Nice job. Man that's tight behind that motor in that hull. Getting rid of that muffler would be a huge help. I have much more room than that even with the muffler. I didn't realize Vibrant had 60 degree bends. My 45's worked pretty good but I wonder if 60 would have been better, my engine is further forward though so 60 may have been to much angle. I never tossed an angle finder on it, just followed another members post with 45's. 

"My muffler connections are 3 1/2”, so all I’d did here was purchase (2) 45 degree 3 1/2 mandrel bent SS tubes and cut one end off to make it fit.  I just had to rotate my SS exhaust outs on the manifolds a little and then rotated my rubber transom connect hoses a little also."

@CatmanI didn't realize the connections coming off the manifolds are able to rotate. Do you know what the CLR is of the 45degree elbows you used for the muffler delete? 

This is great as I want to do a muffler delete for my FAE project as well and this makes it a whole lot easier! Great info and great project. Very well done!

So in an attempt to proactively get ahead of my chrome flaking off, I found something interesting. The chrome on my 08 boat is in pretty good shape, some pitting starting here and there. I found a dealer selling a NOS chrome glovebox door for $50. I bought it and had it shipped out to me for when my glove box door starts to look like crap. To my surprise... the door I received is polished stainless steel!? It's a huge piece of heavy, cast SS with the front of it polished to match the dipped aluminum doors. This will never flake and can be re-polished anytime. It's price tag on it was $415 from back in the day. Does anyone have a stainless door, or other SS "chrome" parts? I'm just curious what year it's from and if it was an option or what. Salt water package maybe? I'm excited to have this piece looking great forever. 

20 hours ago, Russell said:

Your foiling wake is seemingly perfect.  If I could get my boat to do that, I’d be super-stoked.

You shouldn't have too much trouble making a smooth foil wave. Not much weight and a little more speed is required, 10-11mph. I like a long smooth roller with no white wash. I fill my center tank and put the surf gate out and that's about it. Much easier than making a good surf wave. 

Whoa, that some serious work there haha. Better safe and sorry I guess! What a job wow. Nice work. 

Awesome work! I love the tree "hoist" haha!  Fantastic outcome.

On 12/11/2021 at 12:32 PM, CUCV said:

Very nice project, well done!  I may have to hit you up for some info on the wireless setup.  What are you ridding for a foil, I'm thinking of grabbing one soon? 

Thanks! The wireless controller I'm using is just a simple 433mhz relay controller that triggers the push buttons connected to my surf gate controller. Its made by a company called RF Solutions. They make various wireless controllers and parts. This is series I am using, very basic: RF Controllers. You can order their products through sites like DigiKey who carry a lot of their products. 

As for the foil I have, that is a Liquid Force Nebula Foil package with the Horizon 160 wing. It's a blast, so much fun, I foil more than I surf now. It's a nice and stable wing, good for gliding and learning on + a little more affordable. 

1 hour ago, SONICJK said:

Really well done, i don't think anyone would know it's not factory by looking at it.

Thanks! And a HUGE shoutout to @SONICJK for helping me get the actuators and some other misc parts shipped up to Canada for me. Project would have cost me a lot more without his help. Really appreciate it!

33 minutes ago, Rugger said:

I don't have a specific measurement.  I think I aimed for the center of the prop.   One mistake I made, you can learn from, is to make the cut angle of that single pipe a little less.  Mine does kick sound out ( a little) when turning sometimes.   But I would keep the front edge where it is and just cut less aggressive angle so back edge isn't so high.... if that makes sense.   All in all - I'm the only one that notices.

Yup makes sense, that's good to know, thanks for the tip! Looking forward to getting this built.  

@Rugger What was the distance you dropped the pipe below the bottom of the hull? Is there a sweet spot for how low it goes? Obviously has to clear the wedge as well. Any cavitation issues on the wedge with it exiting above it? Taking inspiration from yours I’m in the process of building my own surf exhaust that converges into a single outside the hull and dumps inside the wedge like yours. 

That is awesome! Nice work!

Well, well done! I would definitely want some of that if I had a boat like that haha. Great work.

Would love to see an update on this as well! Curious to do something like this but put an external sensor on the rear bag link line. 

This is awesome!

Great info. I just got my hands on a PTM clamping rack and have to fit it to my illusion tower so I'll be taking notes from here for sure. It looks to come with the black aluminum mounting plate. 

Wow, awesome work! TON of work. I want to swap my carpet out someday but my word it is a lot of work. Not sure when I'll get that ambitious. Maybe when I have a heated shop to work in all winter someday. 

That is some beautiful work, wow. The homebrew anodizing is amazing! This is the attention to detail I like to see 🤙

8 hours ago, Rugger said:

Have you contacted @Hyperryd to see if he can sell you a controller?  For the record, he's been nothing but helpful to members on this site.   Might be your best bet to contact him.  

Other options are Wake Logic system or the Arduino system that's well documented and continues development from many users here.

 

I have many times, through here and his website. No reply. Looks as though others have tried as well. 

I thought Wake Logic wasn't available anymore as a stand alone product? Or am I thinking of a different controller? Yeah I'm either going to run the Arduino system or a push button system like this if I can figure it out. 

Has anyone been able to break down the relay wiring for this basic control system? I don’t know relay wiring well enough to break it down from the picture but I would like to potentially use a system like this, just because of its simplicity. Hyperryd doesn’t seem to be any help or sell these or anything so if someone has the know how to break down that relay wiring that would be awesome! If I can figure it out, I’ll let everyone know.