jtryon

I would shorten the down pipe to be about level with the prop nut, and would bring the whole thing as close to the taps plate as you can without interfering with it up and down.

i need to measure but they are either 3.5 or 4". mine would be a little different than the pics because i have a catalytic convertor, so it might just be one bend after the cat which would attach to the thru-hull exit. i didn't even think about buying a pre-made stainless elbow...that's a great idea to keep the engine bay a little cleaner looking of an install.

i would just being making the elbows out of PVC and keeping the rest the marine exhaust hose, which is the same thing FAE does for these conversions. i attached a couple pics of what FAE sent me for their conversion. i suppose i could use that flexible rubber exhaust hose for the turns instead too. thanks for the thoughts on sched 40 ratings--i also thought that pressure had a lot to do with the rating but wanted someone to ease my mind. 🤘

never had a single problem with mine warping. keep in mind these are in the water, so if there was some sort of temperature threshold that they start warping, you'll never reach it because of the lake water keeping them cool. that being said, they never even feel warm when running off a hose in the driveway either. question for everyone: i just got a 2007 centurion with sideswipe exhaust and want to convert back to this style. FAE offers a complete kit for $880 which includes 4 elbows (2 x 3.5”/ 2 x 4.0”)and 2 cover plates and a one-piece Y FAE, through hull, no external bracing. their kit re-uses the stock sideswipe hoses, so essentially the engine bay parts they supply are just two thru-hulls and two elbows for each side. i'd like to keep it inexpensive and just do my own FAE with the same schedule 40 black PVC, but am wondering how that will fare internally in the engine compartment since it won't be cooled naturally like the external piping. sched 40 is rated for 140 degrees. water running through the engine comes in at a max lake/river temp of 90 degrees mid-summer (let's say), and exits out the exhaust within a few seconds. if i have a 170 degree thermostat, what temp would you say the water coming out of the engine is at the most? is the heat of a v-drive engine bay as much of a potential issue for a couple PVC elbows as the water running through the elbows?

yikes sorry to hear!

do you have the rotary encoder connected? remove that and see if it works better...i had problems with the encoder that i used in the beginning.

friggin' awesome jon 🤘

that touch screen would be fantastic, keep us posted!

@tylerstrop I would love an LCD add-on personally. I like the ability to tweak from an app too, but being able to see speed, GPS lock, deploy side and errors in real time would be awesome. Even better if your guys can program a button to switch from manual mode to GPS mode on the fly for testing.

the other thing that i had trouble with was the rotary encoder, and jon said that he had problems with them as well. are you using the encoder? if not, i'd second what jhartt said--check power connections to the arduino, or change the speed setting to see if that helps. if you are on a river maybe you need to lower the deploy speed to account for the river current.

good idea on the permanent cable 🤘

1988 Supra Sunsport. not looking to do much else this summer other than surf! i do get annoyed every spring at having to adjust my shaft packing though, so the Glide system would be an awesome addition.

success!! i switched the tx and rx pins on the GPS and it's working immediately! i get 7-8 satellites even indoors, and shows a speed of just above zero while not moving, but that's good because it's a readout. for anyone using @jonthompson code, the wiring sheet should say RX-->D9, TX-->D8 rather than the other way around. hope that helps someone.

i'm on my second GPS (same one jon used this time) and can't get it to talk to the arduino. it does have a solid light indoors which indicates no satellites, and a blinking light every second when outdoors which indicates a satellite fix. it still shows "sats=0" in the serial monitor though. i've switched the TX/RX pins with no change. let me know if you have success with another GPS!

anyone know how the surf band that @jonthompson added to his should be wired to the arduino board?

'88 Supra Sunsport

great, thank you jon!

@jonthompson what is the pinout for the surf band receiver to the arduino?

edit: never mind, i think i figured it out

i only have it because the first iteration of this project was 2 years ago and that's what the guy i got the code at that time from said to get haha I'm still going to use the relay's--i already bought those. thanks again Jon!

super helpful, thanks! here are the specs on the motor driver: https://www.pololu.com/product/2507 it shows that it operates from 5.5v to 24v, but no mention of if it has a 5v regulator onboard.