Jhartt3

Transfer with no manual mode not tested. Really just posted to help another user. 

https://create.arduino.cc/editor/jhartt3/b833cf15-ce1a-4931-85c6-0c10081aa94d/preview

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller-H-Bridge-Mega2560-Duemilanove/dp/B00CAG6GX2

haha i think misc is fine for now.  not sure how well a delaminated foam core board would work on this assuming thats what ronix you have. 

there is some better stuff out there now i'll try to find what someone else posted. i used open back from utopia when i did mine. 

I'd suggest you use a controller vs momentary switches. But if you want to do momentary switches I like the car window switches @Rob Andrus uses.  

This build is sick.  All you guys make this look so professional - i on the other hand cobbled together some 3/8th in HDPE 

Looks great man - I'll be getting the arduino shipped out to you in the next week. 

good work i did this last year loved it - not hot in the sun - but it does slide around a bit more than i'd like as well. 

the voltage will be quite a bit higher than 12Volts when the gates are operating due to the engine running should be around 13.3Volts so the drop shouldnt be too significant.  i'll hook it up this weekend.  there are some heat sinks i could add to them as well if they are getting hot.  i'm going back and forth on the relays b/c i'm not sure where to mount them.  but the enclosed plastic box will already be hot in the summer so the FETs will heat up faster.  

if what you're saying is true about the motors not working well if being extended to the dash of the boat the martin's box that has the motors tie in at his box would be causing people's setups to die earlier.  i understand what you're saying about over heating it - i feel if it melts down i have reason to go get my money back from amazon and change to the relay setup.  b/c the product description was wrong.  if i install these relays you speak of now i have about 40% more wiring to do plus i have to find a place to mount them in my boat ... i'm skeptical of its need. as running both motors doesnt cause any warmth to the FETs under no load even when they are on for 8 seconds.  

Thanks for you logic its harder to read someone else's and apply it.  but i'll look at in detail tonight.  i tried forever to get the millis function to work properly really wish this was just a PLC and my life would have been much easier. 

I dont think it should be an issue they say they are rated for that and they arent running for long amounts of time - while testing if they ran continuously for over 30 seconds the FETs would get hot to the touch.  but there is never a time these will be running for that long.  i'll watch the draw under load.  not sure why this couldnt be mounted under the dash with this setup either.  i'll watch temp when i test it once the weather warms up. 

Yeah and there is a bcker you can put on it as well to help it stay in place. 

Transfer code tested with GPS good to go. only "issue" is the outputs stay high for 2x as long when transferring - not a big deal but just an FYI gates still retract and deploy in about 4 seconds. 

I'll update the table and the video shortly - 

Also has auto manual logic now 

Pin 10 when connected to gnd allows you to run just off the switch with no GPS.  

GPS antenna updated

WTW Kansas or Kansas City? - You used my link so Kansas City - Thank you Josh!

Have you ever done both devices to see what would happen. I plan to do this next year with my new autogate. 

I will post my project as i plan to use an arduino for control - still trying to figure out how to get GPS data into the arduino currently - but i'll post step by step on that.  My larger concern is the physical stuff since i'm a EE the electronics is no problem.  But how to mount the gate how large to make it etc. is where i'm currently struggling

i've got a 1999 Sunsetter VLX.  I assume my angles would be similar to yours do you remember what they were?