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  • MB Slappers


    Hyperryd
    • Year: 2011 Brand: MB Sports Model / Trim: B52 Wide Body Device Type : Hinged Gate Style Surf Device Material: Starboard or a HDPE Control: Powered with Automated Controller Cost: (unspecified) Platform Type: Fiberglass
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    I purchased a 2011 MB Sports B52 and decided it needed a surf enhancement.  I read a lot of forum threads on multiple sites.  I started with a wood "Slapper" (It's an MB thing) that slid on the step and attached to the tie down eye.  This worked great for the one time we used it heading into winter.  Unfortunately winter daydreaming about summer made me plan out a set of powered Slappers for the spring.  I used white HDPE for the Slappers themselves and Lenco fast 4.25" actuators.  Even though I had seen other versions with the slappers below the step height, I felt they needed to be a little taller to be the most effective.  I shaped them with an elliptical curve to match the back end of my boat at the top.  I didn't want a square cutting board hanging on my boat.  After getting the nerve to drill holes under the waterline I mounted the boards and actuators.

    IMG_1119.JPGIMG_2506.PNGIMG_2509.PNGIMG_0007.JPGIMG_1916.JPG

    I know the WL controller is the best control option available but I couldn't see the need for the GPS option or the high cost of the controller.  Being a control freak, pretty savvy with relays, timers and wiring, I came up with my own controller of the slappers.  It was complicated to come up with something that would deploy the actuators with a momentary signal and give a light that it was deployed, but after a few sleepless nights I figured it out.  In the end I hit one button to deploy my goofy actuator and pull my rider.  While driving I can switch sides by just pushing the opposite button.  The deployed acutator retracts and the other actuator deploys.  The lights on the switches follows whichever gate is deployed.  When the rider goes down, I press the Wipeout button and any deployed actuator retracts and I drive back to the rider without any steering issues.  It really is a simple set of controls that is very intuitive and doesn't need complicated programming to adjust.

    IMG_1889.JPGIMG_1887.JPGIMG_0072.JPG

     

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    Looks like you had a manual ghetto gate, err, "slapper" at one time (sitting on platform in picture).  Post some wake pics when you can!  Awesome project.  You could probably charge some of us for your relay/timer recipe... its very clean and looks like it works well.   I'm a huge fan of Wake Logic but you came up with a very effective alternative.   Impressive.  You'll probably get hit with more questions about it come summer.  Nice project and thanks for sharing it! 

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    Here a couple of vids of the goofy wake, which is the stronger of the two. We only have a couple of regular riders in our group but they say it has great push and size. We just have to cheat 2-300 lbs to the regular side.  Hopefully I will have my GoPro wired up this year to get better videos. 

    This was our second trip out with the Slappers with stock 1800lbs+300lb sacs in rear lockers and 4 people in the boat. 

    Please ignore my lack of skills!

     

    • Like 3
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    15 minutes ago, abe2branscome said:

    Do you have a wiring diagram of your setup?

    I do "build to order" these controls. It comes complete with switches and decals for $475 +shipping.  You just need to supply power & ground, hook up 2 wires from each actuator and plug in the switches.  Works like a champ. 

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    5 hours ago, Hyperryd said:

    I do "build to order" these controls. It comes complete with switches and decals for $475 +shipping.  You just need to supply power & ground, hook up 2 wires from each actuator and plug in the switches.  Works like a champ. 

    I've got it figured out for 40$. 475$ is pretty high. No thanks. 

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    1 hour ago, abe2branscome said:

    I've got it figured out for 40$. 475$ is pretty high. No thanks. 

    That's awesome.  I started with manual adjustable push poles one summer, then went to basic switches wired to Lencos. Was able to open and close with the switches.  Big upgrade for turning.  Then I switched to a GPS controlled system where the gates would work automatically with one switch.  Now, for my latest install there's even the ability to switch on a waterproof remote for Wake to wake and other features. Each one costs more than the other.  I think @Hyperryd has a affordable option for a controller.  

    If you're able to get what you need from $40 I'm sure a lot of people would love to see your system!  Would make an awesome post as well.  So many ways to go with this stuff.  Appreciate seeing all the new ideas.  

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    2 hours ago, abe2branscome said:

    I've got it figured out for 40$. 475$ is pretty high. No thanks. 

    That's great man. I can't even get the parts for $40, but the best part is I just saved 15% on my car insurance with Geico while reading your reply. Thanks!!

    Edited by Hyperryd
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    8 hours ago, Hyperryd said:

    That's great man. I can't even get the parts for $40, but the best part is I just saved 15% on my car insurance with Geico while reading your reply. Thanks!!

    But did you stay at a holiday inn express last night

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    It's great.  Goofy is ridiculous.  Regular isn't as pretty but has the same push weighted evenly.  We usually just cheat 300lbs to the regular side and it cleans right up.  Either human ballast or dump off 300lbs from the opposite side.

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    15 hours ago, Shoebox said:

    Could you have made them less tall - in line with the swim step?

    If I was going for purely cosmetics, sure.  I'm a believer that once water starts running over the top of the slapper you have reached the point of diminishing returns.  If you are adding a lot of ballast you are sinking the ass end and lowering the slapper in the water.  To me it's a simple decision of function over form.  You don't add slappers for style points, although you can do extra things to make them look nice.  I wanted mine to look stock and gave them a pretty good shape.  They will never be accused of looking better than @Rugger stealth gates, but then none will.

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    4 minutes ago, Hyperryd said:

    If I was going for purely cosmetics, sure.  I'm a believer that once water starts running over the top of the slapper you have reached the point of diminishing returns.  If you are adding a lot of ballast you are sinking the ass end and lowering the slapper in the water.  To me it's a simple decision of function over form.  You don't add slappers for style points, although you can do extra things to make them look nice.  I wanted mine to look stock and gave them a pretty good shape.  They will never be accused of looking better than @Rugger stealth gates, but then none will.

    Thanks, just didn't know how tall they needed to be, unloaded they look like they're only a couple inches into the water. Do you have a pic of them while you're running loaded? 

    I didn't say it earlier, but they do look awesome. I'm thinking of doing something similar or maybe wake plates on my 2014 Mondo. 

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    @Shoebox most here think it does make a difference with a taller gate (delays more water), especially as you sink the boat w/ballast.  

    However I would not worry too much about it because there are so many variables to a surf Wake that at one point in my testing gate height the results seemed negligible.   In other words it doesn't suddenly start working at a given height.   Taller gates spray more too, but so what. 

    Another option if you want them flush is to raise your swim platform.   I lifted mine 3" which gave me 14" tall gates that were flush.   Although the newer modern boats typically have a higher mounted platform already.  Mine was ten years old  

     

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    Yeah I guess the overall height isn't what I'm concerned with, but whether the top should be out of the water when the boat is loaded. I have a Nauticurl now, and because of the lines of the boat the whole thing is underwater, even when unloaded. 

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    On 3/2/2017 at 11:44 AM, Hyperryd said:

    Straight into the hull with #14 screws and 3M sealant.  They aren't going anywhere.

    Which 3M sealant did you use?

    I currently have 3M 5200, but I've read this is considered permanent and that I should use something else.

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    1 hour ago, JoeBu said:

    Which 3M sealant did you use?

    I currently have 3M 5200, but I've read this is considered permanent and that I should use something else.

    Personally I would not use 5200 although many do.  I’d use 4200 in that lineup or something else.  I’ve tried to remov something with 5200– doesn’t easily happen while keeping fiberglass intact. 

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    On 6/21/2017 at 5:58 AM, Hyperryd said:

    I do "build to order" these controls. It comes complete with switches and decals for $475 +shipping.  You just need to supply power & ground, hook up 2 wires from each actuator and plug in the switches.  Works like a champ. 

    Hi please can I buy your slapper kit including the slappers, actuators and controls. I messaged you for pricing

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    On 1/14/2019 at 3:05 PM, Errol Bong said:

    Hi please can I buy your slapper kit including the slappers, actuators and controls. I messaged you for pricing

     

    On 6/20/2017 at 3:58 PM, Hyperryd said:

    I do "build to order" these controls. It comes complete with switches and decals for $475 +shipping.  You just need to supply power & ground, hook up 2 wires from each actuator and plug in the switches.  Works like a champ. 

    Do you still make these controllers 

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    Has anyone been able to break down the relay wiring for this basic control system? I don’t know relay wiring well enough to break it down from the picture but I would like to potentially use a system like this, just because of its simplicity. Hyperryd doesn’t seem to be any help or sell these or anything so if someone has the know how to break down that relay wiring that would be awesome! If I can figure it out, I’ll let everyone know. 

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    Have you contacted @Hyperryd to see if he can sell you a controller?  For the record, he's been nothing but helpful to members on this site.   Might be your best bet to contact him.  

    Other options are Wake Logic system or the Arduino system that's well documented and continues development from many users here.

     

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    8 hours ago, Rugger said:

    Have you contacted @Hyperryd to see if he can sell you a controller?  For the record, he's been nothing but helpful to members on this site.   Might be your best bet to contact him.  

    Other options are Wake Logic system or the Arduino system that's well documented and continues development from many users here.

     

    I have many times, through here and his website. No reply. Looks as though others have tried as well. 

    I thought Wake Logic wasn't available anymore as a stand alone product? Or am I thinking of a different controller? Yeah I'm either going to run the Arduino system or a push button system like this if I can figure it out. 

    Edited by dcwilson
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    On 9/22/2020 at 7:47 AM, dcwilson said:

    I have many times, through here and his website. No reply. Looks as though others have tried as well. 

    I thought Wake Logic wasn't available anymore as a stand alone product? Or am I thinking of a different controller? Yeah I'm either going to run the Arduino system or a push button system like this if I can figure it out. 

    PM Sent

     

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    @ryguy1188 check the project parts list here:

    WWW.MBBOATOWNERS.COM

    I have had several people ask for information and/or a parts list of some kind for DIY Goose Slappers so I have finally gathered up some...

    i got my HDPE from US Plastics, Item # 46466 (3/4" x 12" x 24" Black Seaboard® UV Stabilized HDPE Sheet) because they were the cheapest at the time.  keep in mind you'll need 2 of this size, and if you order a sheet double the size it may cost more in shipping which is why i went with the 12x24".  then you just need someone to cut the template for you, or you can DIY.

    i'd also suggest making sure your hinges are flush-mount so that when the hinge is cycling the mount is the only thing mating against the hull, if that makes sense.  mine aren't flush-mount as i didn't know there were different styles, so my hinge pushes against the hull and there's a slight gap on the mating surface.  it's still been fine that way for 3 years but worth mentioning if you're starting from scratch.

    Edited by jtryon
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