The first day of testing had mixed results. The wave forms almost instantly, and the shape is much better and more fun than the Nauticurl wave, but at the moment doesn't have as much push. I need to move weight around to see where it needs to be.
(Most of this was written as I went, obviously I have made progress and know results of a lot of this. One thing here, was not playing enough with tab deployment. It was almost full deployment, 18 degrees down, for this initial testing)
I need to remove some weight from the bow, because the tab pushes the nose down, as well as lists the boat. That may add some push.
My biggest mistake was using aluminum hinges. That’s what MB uses, but I guess theirs are much thicker than what I used. My hinges started to bend, particularly at that one broken screw.
I pulled the tabs back off, and was able to get that broken screw out. My buddy suggested we tap the holes for ¼”-20 machine screws, which is what we ended up doing. The threads are the same depth as the sheet metal screws, but there are many more of them, so the holding power will be much greater. I don’t know why Lenco and others don’t suggest doing it this way.
I ordered some new, thicker, stainless steel hinges. They are significantly stronger and better.
Got the boat back in the water for more testing after the hinge replacement. I moved all the lead I had in the bow to the floor in front of the rear seat on the surf side. I also initially only filled the bow ballast halfway. Nose was way too high, needed more speed and wakeplate full down.
I filled the bow ballast the rest of the way, and really seemed to make a powerful wave. The proof is in the surfing, but I was the only one in the boat, so surf test would have to wait.
(An updated note here again. I still hadn't fully played with tab deployment angles, so these still were not the optimum wave or weight placement.)
So at this point, I started to A) worry about the length of these tabs and the forces being put on the hinge and transom, and B) wonder if a shorter, simpler tab would work as well. After all, the stock Moomba Flow 2.0 tabs are quite a bit smaller and work great.
Started making smaller test tabs. There is be a 1.5", 30° bend where the line is on the right, both for rigidity and to help direct the water.
No Waterjet this time, since they don't need to be quite so precise. Used a circular saw, and got them within 1/16". Not too bad.
Once again, I made the lower actuator mounts out of 2" square 1/8" wall aluminum tube. This time I left a reinforcing piece on the top, to keep the sides from flexing in and tightening too much on the actuator. Smoothed everything out and rounded all the sharp edges, then started to test fit.
I wasn't sure what angles I wanted the tabs to deploy. You can see the marks for various angles written on the plastic. I went to my local Moomba dealer and had the sales guy deploy a set for me so I could see. Moomba's max down angle is 30 degrees, but most seem to run them at 60%, so 20 degrees.
So it gave me something to work with for setting my tab angles. I had originally made lower brackets that had a single hole for the actuator. But I decided I wanted to have some adjustability. I made a couple different versions, but ended up with a design I like. They have 4 actuator holes (of which only 3 are really usable) which will provide 18, 24, and 30 degrees of deployment. I also made it so I can move the mount itself a half inch to change the angles more.
Tabs were bent to 30 degrees, holes drilled.
I also made diversion fins for the bottom of the tabs, 2 on each. I'll see how these work, and may play with the angles a bit with those as well. They are currently set at 60° from the transom.
For the first test surf, the wave felt better and larger than the black tabs. However, I wasn't sure if that was because of how the boat was weighted, tab angles, etc.
What we ended up doing was a head-to-head test with both sets of tabs.
I went out with some buddies (we all surf regular) to test both sets of tabs I made to see if one is better.
We filled all the bags (1100s rear, 400 center, 750 IBS, and a 400 on the floor in the pass through) and 150 lead in each locker, 50 under right rear seat, 150 on surf side rear floor, 170 under bow filler cushion. So just about 4k total. 3 guys at 210ish and 1 girl maybe 140.
The first set were the smaller of the 2. At 11.0 and wakeplate up, the wave was great, big with lots of push. For reference, my buddy in the pics is 6'2", 220+.
Then we went back to the dock where I swapped out the starboard tab for the larger, black one. The pic shows the size difference between the two.
We went back out and surfed the black tab, same weight and placement, just less gas. If I didn't tell you the tabs were different, you probably wouldn't know the difference. But the wave seemed a little bit larger, a little bit longer, and a little more push. It also seemed "harder" or firmer. It was kind of weird and took some getting used to.
The most surprising thing was how little downward angle the tabs had for the best wave. I measured the silver set just before swapping out, and it was only 5° down. I wasn't able to measure the black set, but the angle was similar.
Overall, I'm torn on which set I'm keeping. I like that the black set wave is a tiny bit better, but I also like how much smaller the silver set is. Decisions, decisions...
So here's what I have in everything so far.
Aluminum 3/16" plate - $120
2" square tube, 1/8" wall - $8
Waterjet cuts - $100
Bends - $37.50
Powdercoating - $80
Aluminum 3/16" plate - $30
2" square tube - leftover from above
3 ft of 1" angle aluminum 1/8" wall - $10
Cutting/bending - $0
Polishing or powdercoating to come
Total: $40 + finish
Hinges .09" stainless, 1/4" pin - $50
Lenco 101xds actuators - $360/pr
Lenco trim tab switches - $70
Lenco cable extensions - $60/pr
Lenco remote gland seal kit - $28
Misc stainless hardware - $50
Misc electrical - $50
3M 4200 sealant - $14
Extras total: $682