Jump to content
  • projects-database-banner3.png

  • Share your completed boat projects!  DIY or Professional Installs

    Imagine a single giant database of boat projects for all brands, organized by category, boat type or budget.   Share your projects, find inspiration for a new upgrade, or learn the basics or low budget solutions from projects before you.   We can all share and learn from each other in one place.  

    No project is too plain, cheap or lame to post... all will be helpful to someone.  Let's build this!!!!

    Please register or log in first:

    1) Pick a category

    2) Click "Add New Project"

    3) Update your project anytime!

    ***Professional Shops are also welcome to showcase custom work for any category, but you must designate your company name under "installation shop"  with included info.

  • Reversible pump with selectable valves

    • Year: 2006 Brand: Malibu Model / Trim: Wakesetter VLX Cost: $250-$499 Ballast Modifications: Fat sac(s), Pump(s), Hose, Switches DIY or Professional Install: I installed it

    When i was adding additional rear ballast to my 06' VLX i wanted to plumb in the option to be able to run additional floor ballast or a bow sac that could be filled semi-automatic or at least while moving unlike a throw over pump.  Since i was doing reversibles for the rears i decided a reversible for the front plumbed in and out thru the center drain plug would work the nicest.   I mounted a johnson pump up behind the kick plate and plumbed it back down the side of the trim where the fire extinguisher and driver's cupholder is.  My plan was originally to use a 3 way valve similar to the bosworth sealect valve you can get thru wakemakers.   However i wanted the valve over to the side and there wasn't going to be enough room for it there, plus i kinda wanted the option to fill/drain 1 sac or 2 depending on crew size, etc.  So i ran 1" line from the pump into a brass T with 2 - 1" ball valves coming off the T.    The valve pointing toward the front of the boat then has a hose barb and runs a hose up to the bow that tucks back under the side when not in use.  The valve toward the back of the boat has a street 90 turning straight toward the side of the trim with a Ronix PNP pump ballast adapter w/ cap threaded into the 90 and thru the trim.  This helps hold the valve assembly in place, plus makes a nice convenient port to plug a ballast hose with quick connector to when in use similar to what  shadetreefab did on his install.  The plan is to put a sumo 650 on the floor in the back which fits cross ways between the seats with a quick connect 90 so that the hose will tuck right around the seat to the port.   I ordered a pack of 2" flexible grommets https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNXAPK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    on amazon to run the valve handles up thru to clean up the install on the top side of the trim panel then.  Looking back, i could have just used regular 2" open grommets because i ended up cutting most all the rubber out so it wouldn't catch on the valve.   One other thing i did have to do since my kickplate went all the way to the outside of the hull was to trim out the kickplate at the end of the trim panel to allow the 2 hoses to run thru that space. 

    Switch wise, i used a reversible rocker switch from wakemakers with just a ballast label on it and added it into my switch panel in the armrest since i had removed the head unit.   Hope this helps someone, i'm sure i forgot some stuff.  I know one thing i did forget was to take a picture of the valves when i had the trim panel off, so i tried one with it on, but i could draw a diagram if someone needed it.   Now i can't wait for some warm weather to get out there and try it out!







    User Feedback

    Recommended Comments

    When i took the head unit out i used this set of switch housings:

    Faylapa 8pcs Rocker Switch Panel Holder Housing Kit Toggle Switch Housing Holder Black


    The kit i ordered came with 8 panels, however only 7 fit in the head unit space.   I did have to trim about 1/16" to 1/8" off the opening to get 7 to fit lengthwise.  I liked this idea since i was pulling the head unit anyway and i wanted to keep the dash and control panel looking as close to stock as i could.   Hope this helps

    Share this comment

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    Great project, thanks for sharing it.   Also I like the gator lights.  lol

    Clever use of the head unit space.   I don't think I've ever seen that.... perfect!   Welcome to Wake Garage !

    Share this comment

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    Join the conversation

    You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

    Add a comment...

    ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...