Wylie_Tunes

On 5/5/2023 at 5:19 PM, gogop said:

So, I have a similar 2014 G23.  Bluetooth quit working a couple of years ago, now one of the Polk PA 5000.5 amps quit working.  I want the audio to work with the Links system. Also would wouldn't mind upgrading. Am I better off leaving this to the Nautique dealer or finding a local car/marine audio shop here in OKC? Thanks!

The blue tooth is integrated into the Polk black box, so no fixing that. You could install a universal blue tooth to the AUX in, but you would not have song display and track advance on the link. 

The JL Media Master may be compatible. However, I do not know how far back the Link/JL software is backward compatible. This would be a dealer question. 

If I was going to replace the Polk 5 chnl, id go with the Kicker KXMA900.5

On the Centurion, its the Monter MTK bimini. 

The space behind the woofer is very small, but its also not sealed. It not really woofer enclosure by any stretch. In these boat, that structure needs to be opened up to allow the back of the woofer to share the same are space as the locker and bow. If building a sealed or ported, this structure would be deleted anyway. Woofers are also purpose built. Some are designed best for small enclosure and some, like the Revo-12FA are designed for a very large air space, as in infinite-baffle/free air. 

So for the best woofer performance, you need to make sure you've got the right woofer for the application. A non-IB woofer can be run IB, but it will not perform as well as it wood in small enclosure or as well as a true IB woofer. 

Next, need proper wattage and amp. Hitting the woofer's RMS or more, is always best. Depending on the enclosure type, sealed, ported, IB, some amps are better then others for a more ideal tune.

Tuning has to include the both the woofer amp and the cabin amp, as well the head unit setting. It all has to be taken into account for a good sounding system.

@Bobby Start a thread and list the specifics about the woofer and amp, and we'll see if we can make some improvements. 

Bow pump is on the forward bulkhead in the STBD midship locker in front of the helm. 

Thanks, I have them custom etched for me by OTRATTW.

On 9/30/2021 at 10:57 PM, hman89 said:

Does it matter if the impeller pumps are not mounted at or below the waterline?  I would think on emptying that you would always want water at the pump to lubricate the impeller.  Have you burnt up impellors?

 

These pumps are not waterproof, so you do not want to mount them below the normal water line. If the bilge fills, it can damage the pumps. 

There will be water in the pump head, until the sac/tank is empty. With the synthetic impellers, burned impellers are rare, but if left on running dry long enough, they can burn up. 

22 hours ago, JEVERS76 said:

It works pretty good except sometimes the pumps are air-locked and do not pump right away.  I I am considering changing to your configuration.

Likely just need to reorient the fill pumps that are air locking. 

Almost all the strips come out of the same build houses, so just get ones that are silicone encapsulated and carry an IP rating. Tip, dont trust the adhesive backing. Use some other means to secure the strips. The backing will let loose in a short time. 

For the cup holder pucks, we used a waterproof LED thats like 5/16 square with a 12" pigtail. 

Underwater lights were just white lights

If I was going to do this, or similar build, Id go all RGB and a full spectrum RGB controller. Not a HUGE cost difference between single color and RGB and the labor is the same. Even if a single color was the most desired, the controller lets them se the desired color, but have the option to have the other colors. Heck, even RGB underwater lights are getting more budget friendly and more readily available. We can even drive them with the same controller so they are sync'ed with the interior/tower lights. Or, go with a multi-zone controller. 

Not sure what colors you are after, but beware. Orange is a tough one. Most of the "orange" LEDs are actually amber, which is more yellow. Some labeled as amber, were actually a nice orange. I sourced a number of LEDs to test, just to get a good orange. 

For the Rev-10 rings, we ordered the single color blue rings ( use to be available then but all RGB now) and then I built my own orange strips. 

Was thinking down the road to the next owner, of if your boat has to go in to the shop. I have to fold tongues all the time to get more then one boat in the shop. Looking semi-permanent, so could come off in a pinch? 

Will the tongue still fold? 

So the unwanted noise is only when using the BT, but OK when on tuner, USB and AUX?

Is the BT the OEM Medallion unit or other?  

Dave,

Ill help in anyway I can. Start a project in the works thread and post some pics of what you got.  

My first boat had a teak platform. I read some info to seal the teak with a urethane or similar type wood sealer. Bad idea! it looked good but did not last a season before the sealer started to crack and flake off. 2nd season, took 10X the work to strip the sealer off and restore the teak with teak oil to what it should be.  

The Punch Marine series 6.5" are a good sounding speaker. 

I would highly advise that you take the time to remount the pumps 180* so the pump head is down and motor is up. Over time, water will seep past the shaft seal and runs out the motor and bearings. One way to see if this is happening, is to run the pump with the impeller out. Motor should be near dead quite. The louder the pump growls, the worse it is. 

In doing the above, you end up reversing the flow direction. Easy fix is to de-pin one of the connectors, and swap the pins. This reverses the polarity, thus putting the flow rate back in check. 

Id suspect a voltage issue. With the power demands of the audio ballast system, paired with the Link helm system and engine ECM which are both voltage sensitive system, it can cause all kinds of weird issues. If the audio media center is off and the problems are present, this most likely eliminates the audio system, as the only links between the audio and the rest of the boat, are the battery and link. The battery is the voltage source for the entire boat and the LINK acts as a slave wired remote for the audio. If its off, then there is no audio load on the batteries. If the issue is only present when the audio is on. this points more toward low voltage. 

Ill PM you mobile. Give me a call tomorrow.  

56 minutes ago, tylerstrop said:

LOVE the charger idea with the water proof plug !!! Do you happen to have part numbers or references for your parts used ? Would LOVE to do this ...well done buddy !

https://https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16-Inch-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=asc_df_B009ANV81S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241869369567&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13594339949611721246&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009910&hvtargid=aud-799727667774:pla-437104426497&psc=1no.co/gcp1

11 hours ago, DJR@2013 MXZ said:

how big a dif does it make to have that sub box vs. the 12" sub in the open under the drivers feet...?

Uuuge, like so much bass, you'l be tired of bass 😂

Two major flaws with Malibu's setup. 1, the Rockford woofer is not designed for an infinite-baffle setup, so it performs poorly in this alignment. 2, the plastic well flexes too much. This robs the woofer's energy. 

11 hours ago, DJR@2013 MXZ said:

Seems after a while the speakers kinda start giving a shredding sound like they are hungry for power..

Low voltage will certainly effect the performance of an amp, especially when you notice a change in the sound as time passes. You would need to measure the voltage at the amp(s) when the issue is happening. 

Excellent work dressing up the box. 

I would be extra vigilant on keeping that woofer dry. Thats a paper based cone. Even a few hours of water setting in the dust cap, could wick past and into the motor structure. 

I had a center console in last fall, that had 2 t-top tubes blown out like that. 

That is the bimini from Monster, but its actually made for them, but now I cant remember the name on the tag. 

An inlet per pump is not needed, as its all about the flow rate. A 1" can easily supply two pumps and a 1.25" can support 3 pumps. I go with individual thru-hulls only when it makes the install easier. Sometimes a single manifold is too large to fit, so we do need to break the pumps up and spreads them out. 

You might see some air lock from those pumps above. I would suggest rotating them around so the outlets are up. 

Great detail!

5 hours ago, 2008_247lsv said:

when the voltage comes up it just combines the banks which would allow for cross charge

BEP as in BEP Marine. They call it a VSR, while Blue Sea Systems and others call them ACR. In the end, they all do about the same job. 

As long as there is voltage above normal static (at rest) battery voltage, the ACR/VSR will close/combine, allowing that voltage to contribute to the other bank. As stated, this is voltage above normal battery voltage, so its alternator charge. In this scenario, its not the charged battery pouring into the undercharged battery, but rather the alternator's charge. 

When there is no charge, or in other words voltage thats not above an at-rest battery, the ACR/VSR will open, isolating the main from the house. The ACR will not "cause" the charged battery to charge into the other one. In reality, the purpose of the ACR/VSR is to prevent just that. 

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not really a fan of the the auto charging relays cause they cause the good battery to charge the drained battery,

Heck of a project for sure.

Not sure which ones you've used that do this. The Blue Sea, BEP and Surepower units do not.

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I don't like the thought of having to flip a switch all the time to switch between batteries

The DCP switch is ON when you hop in the boat and OFF when you leave. No switching while on the lake, no remembering to switch while on the lake.