Wylie_Tunes

For most Moomba owners of the past 6-7 model years with OEM woofer option, by far, the biggest complaint is the lack luster woofer performance. Sadly, its the woofer, mainly the brand, that gets the bad wrap. In reality, its the choice of Moomba, to cut a corner. The Kicker KM10 woofer is NOT a true infinite-baffle/free-air woofer, meaning, it works best with a small enclosure behind it. Moomba chooses to load it through the under helm facade, with no enclosure structure behind it. Further more, the facade is not even a complete wall. Its actually open at the top! This allows output off the back of the driver, to flow over and meld with the output off the front. This creates phase cancellation issues. This makes tuning correctly, nearly impossible. Sound quality and performance will suffer. It can also be detrimental to the woofer, leading to a mechanical failure and short life. The fix: small sealed or ported enclosure back loaded behind the facade and a proper amp tune. You can comfortably fit a small sealed enclosure between .8 and 1.0 ft3, depending on year, model and options, under the helm. The boat will retain the factory look with little no loss of leg room. The original facade is retained, with little modification. A larger ported enclosure will require more design and fab time, and result in some loss of some leg room under the helm. Installing an enclosure makes a world of difference in both sound quality and output. Construction finished, ready for sealing. Finished enclosure installed and facade and woofer back in place. Also installed a Fusion MX-NRX300 transom remote and N2K Backbone to support it. Since the boat had a Wet Sounds RGB controller installed aftermarket by dealer, we wire the Kicker KM10's RGB LEDs to the controller.

This boat came into the shop with only a single battery but two ON/OFF switches. As we dug into the project, it seemed that this boat did at one time, have a 2nd battery. Somewhere along the line, it was consolidated to a single battery, which happen to be a deep cycle. Even then, the twin ON/OFF switch was a strange configuration, even back in 07. Dual bank switches are not new by any means. We removed the old twin switches and installed a new Blue Sea 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch. Removed some of the extra, unneeded cabling. Relocated ALL the B+ load supplies to the switch output. Built new 1/0ga ground link cable between the banks and a new 1/0 B+ supply from the battery to the switch. New group 24 box and Interstate marine cranking battery. One main switch turns the boat off when out of use. Operator can decide which bank to draw from, whether cruising or at anchor. One bank can always be kept isolated in reserve and both banks can be charged while the engine is running.

The 07 Centurion Avalanche has a 3 hard tank setup that uses a common impeller pump to fill each tank through a set of 3 sprinkler valves. First step was to remove the engine dividers and engine hatch supports. Remove the hard tank covers and hard tanks. Remove the sprinkler valve assembly and all the fill, drain and vent hosing. Reroute belly tank fill hose from sprinkler valve to outlet of original impeller fill pump. Cut to length and connect to pump. Beyond this, everything else remains as is for the belly tank. Faster fill rate now with the original fill pump dedicated to the belly tank. We recycled the hard tank covers and built covers for the side swipe exhaust. This concealed them, created a divider between the exhaust and sacs and provided a perfect spot to mount the 2 new pumps. New plumbing required a new thru-hull setup for one rear pump and a T off the original for the belly and one rear pump. The hard tanks had a drain and vent thru-hulls. We capped one and retained the other as a vent for the new sac. New .75" hose for the vent lines and 1" hose for the fill/drain lines. New 12/2 cable run from each new pump to the helm for the pump electrical. 2 new DPDT Carling switches for the new rear reversible pumps, but retained the original switch actuators. 10GA inline fuse holders and 30A fuse connected to the helm BUS supply. Switch ground to helm ground BUS supply.

So we pulled the original Evolution tower and installed a new Monster MTK tower w/swivel ranks and bimini. We made use of a couple if the exposed holes from the old tower, with the front tower feet and anchor light fitting. Tower placed placement was key. The old tower swooped back, the new tower swoops forward. We needed the bimini to give good coverage of the main cabin, yet try not to move the tower tow point too much from its original center of gravity. This required moving the "Centurion" gunwale plates back about 6" and re-drilling a few new holes.