This is what i got from bakes when i did this project.  Not sure if i had posted this before or not.  This may help some

Depth Finder_Lowrance PD-WBL Transducer Installation Instructions.pdf

Sorry i didn't see this reply before.  i put mine in a 3ft barrel of water to test, but it is possible that you could have the pins backwards too maybe?  i glued the transducer face down with the mounting kit from lowrance with their special sealant of adhesive.    That module plugs into a 4 pin weather pac plug under the dash that goes into the main module...

@Chris J i can try to double check on this tomorrow for you.  the depth finder was a separate module that plugged into a weather pack connection coming out of the main control box.   i had to order the module thru bakes, then adapt the transducer plug to fit into the module.  

Yes, it worked great, alarm even sounds when i'm under 3ft going thru the channel.   Although the temps come from under the dash for the air temp and the sea temp comes thru the paddle wheel on my VLX.  So i had to replace the paddle wheel to fix the sea temp, although i feel like one could splice in an air temp gauge, (same as air temp on some of the older boats) into the wires on the paddle wheel.  

That might be a good option as well, might be cheaper and a little easier to get than coosa...  i figured i could pry sell my old one then, although it probably wouldn't cost too much for fiberglass and filler...

i guess i didn't think about that because i didn't want to not have a platform while i was making or fixing the old one, although i have a partial sheet of 3/4" plywood i could seal and paint black and put the old pad on it while i retrofitted the original.  If i paint it black, and have to use it for a month, oh well.  no one would even notice it much unless you were close to the boat.  

I may be referring back to this project multiple times.  Considering doing the same with 3/4" coosa board possibly to make a surfgate style platform for my 06' vlx since the stock one is too wide and square for my gates to work nicely.  Awesome job on this!

Question for anyone, if i do this with the coosa board, would i gain strength with 2 layers of 3/4" glued and screwed together, or if i can get 1.5" board would a single piece be enough?  I'm not much of an engineer, but just wondering if the double layer would add strength vs. the equivalent in a single layer?

Yeah, @ryan it wasn't the cheapest option, but i'm glad i did it so far.   Will do @Rugger. it came as a pdf, so i figured if you put it there then people could view it because it would be pretty simple to fix the failed transducers if they have this info

Yeah, i definitely like my illusion x, but i can't hardly mount anything below it because at 5'11" to 6" i about rub my head on it.  The extra height would be nice, and with my mirror mounted from the tower, i can see it when it rocks back and forth just a bit...

That makes me want to find a G3 for my VLX!  Looks awesome!

3 hours ago, cowwboy said:

I like the idea. Keeps the airflow no matter what the wives/girlfriends stuff in there. 

Right!  And i'm up in Ohio, so i'm not dealing with triple digit days like you guys.  Although if i had skills like you @cowwboy i wouldn't need it because i could water cool my amps!  I think that is awesome!    I think you need those in the floor of the walkway to the bow with clear poly over them and LED's in them!  just a thought

Makes sense...  I might have to look into that.   Thanks

On 4/3/2018 at 9:02 AM, cowwboy said:

It is was kind of frustrating trying to find an off the shelf distribution block for the amount of components I have. 
The batteries are in the rear compartments in front of the ballast bags. I tried having them in the observer compartment, but they just take up to much space. Running golf cart batteries and the backup battery. 

Were your batteries in the rear compartments to start with or was that a mod you did?  Mine are up front next to the amps and shut off switch, etc.  But i could definitely gain a lot of usable room moving them elsewhere.  I'd have to measure my space, but if i could put them under the rear seat backs before the ballast area that would be awesome.  Do you have any pictures of this or is this a thread on the site?  I would be interested in more info...  Thanks

When i took the head unit out i used this set of switch housings:

Faylapa 8pcs Rocker Switch Panel Holder Housing Kit Toggle Switch Housing Holder Black

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQX227N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The kit i ordered came with 8 panels, however only 7 fit in the head unit space.   I did have to trim about 1/16" to 1/8" off the opening to get 7 to fit lengthwise.  I liked this idea since i was pulling the head unit anyway and i wanted to keep the dash and control panel looking as close to stock as i could.   Hope this helps