jonthompson

Hey all - finally back on my feet...thanks! Haven't surfed in a month - but plan to make it out today..I adjusted my tabs yesterday and made a few last controller updates - i'm going to test on the water this afternoon and i think the controllers all ready to go. I will need to improve the UI on the app its pretty barebones at the moment - but i think all the features are there. It should also be coded flexibly enough that you dont need to update the controller, just the app, to add new features/app updates. Once i hit the water with these last changes, I'll post things up!

nono - just saying dont flash my currently released code onto it - as it wont work. sorry for the confusion - i'll get the released code for the romeo out asap.

yep was coming here to say that - the #1 issue people have is the rotary encoder, they all vary and it was a huge pain. if you have that in. pull it out. otherwise it sounds like a speed issue is your gps displaying a valid speed? can you paste the debug code in? just a heads up, ontop of a broken finger i was in a bike accident right after posting on thurs and am still recovering.. clearly not my summer - concussion and bumps and bruises and maybe a broken hand, tbd still. i will post the code this week, just got slowed down on cleaning up and commenting it further. if anyone already got the new romeo ble controller, hold off, the old code isnt compatible with that one.

Sorry I dont/havent sold any of the controllers - but with the new design you can get away without having to solder anything - it's pretty straight forward - you can wire it up pretty easily which was the main goal for using the above all-in-one robotics/bluetooth controller. It includes everything you need, an arduino, 2 motor drivers to control the actuators, bluetooth, a decent power interface, etc - can just plug in the GPS with breadboard jumper wires (https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Breadboard-Optional-Assorted-Multicolored/dp/B07GD2BWPY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=breadboard+wiring&qid=1565873219&s=gateway&sr=8-14) and you don't even need to solder. I'm just cleaning up the code now and will post it and a basic build sheet. Just an important note, especially for the other person working on updated code, same as before, you still don't power the actuators from the arduino directly, you use the arduino to trigger relays which power the actuators. The arduino cannot put out enough amps to control the actuators. So besides the controller itself, you need to wire waterproof relays to control the actuators. I'll include a full wiring diagram as i know there were questions previously, attached is a photo of mine. My controller attaches to the breakout in the middle and is also mounted on the board now. The actuator power lines run out the back. For size comparisons, I have this relay controller up under my observer seat next to my amps - it's on a 12x12 piece of seaboard.

Sorry all, i do have the new controller built - and 2 installed - just slowed down with a broken finger (cast on since 4 weeks ago, the day after i put my boat in finally..) I'll post up my bluetooth controller code and build list today - it's a rewrite of most of the code (including removing the rotary encoders - you can tweak in the app niw.) The build is much simpler and only requires the controller (https://www.amazon.com/DFROBOT-Romeo-BLE-Arduino-Bluetooth/dp/B00PS3XHSQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=romeo+ble+arduino&qid=1565643755&s=gateway&sr=8-1) and GPS (same gps as before) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRNN3YZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) If you want physical controls it supports a 3 way switch like before, and 3 buttons (left/off/right) with LED lights for modes - or just app control. You wire it and set the specific configuration in the app - no code mods needed. The app lets you adjust the deploy times on the fly while riding, default settings - as well as tweaking all the settings the controller uses. Currently the app is only an android APK and i need to make it a prettier, but it works fine. Control is over wireless bluetooth. I do have an android wear app for controlling while surfing but the range is spotty at the moment -if i can improve i'll release. From personal experience - i would not recommend a screen/touchscreen arduino on a boat. Marine environment is tough on parts in general - and there's no decent arduino driven touchscreens that aren't expensive or extremely fragile. I had an OLED display on my previous build that i removed because it was a pain in the butt. The phone is a MUCH better controller, everyone has one already, and you can see speed, deploy, settings, etc all on the app. You're better off grabbing a $20 fire tablet and using that than a dedicated screen. Anyway, the new code will be up here in the next day or so: https://github.com/jonthompson/surfactuator

Hey all - my apologies - i just logged back in for the first time since the fall and see i missed a lot of messages! I'll start out by saying, I have since replaced my original arduino system with a new bluetooth BLE enabled one - which is much simpler to build - and based on a single robotics board - and a single GPS module. I plan to upload the code and post schematics for it - i just haven't gotten around to it as i had a big move and a bit of a crazy fall/winter/spring. I did drop the surf band - as i never really used it and it kept eating batteries. The new version lets me adjust settings (and control) via an app on my phone - as well as the hard wired controls. A smart watch app would be trivial as well. I'll upload the new version to a net github location leaving the legacy one in place - and get back to people who messaged me over the next few days! If anything is urgent drop a line and I'll see if i can help get you on the water asap. Sorry no i wont build you one! But the new one is much simpler to build!

Power/gnd should be self explanatory but one of the RX wires -> D2 (INT0 --There are 2 interrupt pins on the arduino, D2=INT0 and D3=INT1.) Sorry i haven't addressed the surfband in the docs yet. It will only switch sides when "speedlimit" is valid -- and it resets once speedlimit is no longer valid (this is intentional since there is a physical switch at the helm, i didnt want it to be confusing.) I havent verified if multiple of those bands have the same transmitting ID - i assume they do - but if it doesnt work let me know and I'll send you some simple testing code to capture the output from your band so update the source until I get a chance to write a capture-code part.

Perfect - then yes - it is basically identical. Just wire it the same as the L298N.. You don't need speed control (normally done with the PWM pins) but you will need to drive the PWM pins high most likely - so you'll need 2 additional wires (the ENA/PWM bridging wont work on that one i dont think.) That said - Is there a reason you're using it? I might pick up a $1 L298N vs a $50 motor board I would still plan to use automotive relays with it instead of driving the lencos directly from that board (although it says it can drive 12A, there's really no need to have it do all that work and run all that larger gauge wiring.)

If you end up grabbing my code (which I am actually updating right now moving a pin around to work better with the surf band) the code will work exactly the same on your board as the nano and mega share the same pin configs - the mega just adds a ton more (which is great!) The only thing i would change is i'd use one of the mega's dedicated RX/TX for GPS instead of the pins I'm using (8/9.) This should just work out of box with my code - no changes required (GPSPort handles that magically for you.) Your motor driver looks a little confusing but your pin outs are actually the same as the L298N. You likely just bridge M1ENA -> M1PWM and M2ENA->P2PWM (we have jumpers for this.) I didn't check the specs but if you have a 5V regulator onboard that cant handle >12V make sure you disable that (The L298N does, its a jumper.) Just double check the sheet for how to correctly wire to make sure i'm not missing anything as Im not familiar with that board. Otherwise you just wire the INA/INB the same way as the L298N - you have M1INA, M1INB, M2INA, M2INB instead of IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4 on the L298N - but its the same just different names.

Just a heads up - I added a simple cheap DIY surf band to my controller over the weekend and just checked in the code to my github The added parts are under $20: This waterproof SOS band (cheap, waterproof, sealed battery, somewhat lame looking but easier than building one.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BQYTM6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and Using the receiver like this: https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Receiver-Regeneration-Wireless-Burglar/dp/B01AL5Q7SC (Can also get a 5 pack for about the same price without the antennas and just add your own wiring.) Logic is - pressing button while surfing overrides the current deploy state until the boat slows below the speed limit - then it returns to whatever you have the switch set to. This is great for transfers controlled by surfer -- and then not confusing for the driver when restarting.

Happy to help -- not to hijack jhartts thread - do you want to drop this to PM? Or you can facebook chat me -- just we dont clutter up this thread further! - https://www.facebook.com/jon.thompson1 -- can post back the final response once we troubleshoot it.

Do you have the ability to hook up a laptop to the controller to get serial printouts while you are testing? Kind of a pain - but it'd be much easier to debug this issue. Are you using jhartt3's code or mine on github? Mine prints stats out every second to serial - if you point me at the code you're using i can add some debug logic to it for you to see if we can track down the issue.

Yup! A single pair of the same gauge wire for both +12 and GND - so a 25A-30A line under-30ft should be 10AWG - as per the power table i shared above.

Wire the 12V/GND on the motor controller to the 12v BEFORE the 12-9V regulator (but make sure both are on switched power that is not always on, do not run directly to battery.) Treat it as 2 independent power systems: 1) Ardiuno controller (GPS, motor shield, etc - low draw, use whatever you want) - everything here shares a common ground. 2) Acutator relays (High amp draw, make sure power/gnd are same gauge.) This is a dedicated power/ground from the battery of an acceptable gauge. You are dealing with 4 different voltages on the arduino - so that makes it confusing, 12v source (regulator, motor driver), 9v (arduino output from regulator), 5v (motor controller and anything on the 5v arduino regulator) and 3.3V (gps, switch, etc). The wiring diagram on my project might help - i am using the LM2596 in place of the 12-9V but it is doing the same thing -https://github.com/jonthompson/surfactuator

If you are using the L298N you need to remove this jumper: cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-vt19phz/product_images/uploaded_images/l298n-dual-2a-motor-driver-module-tronixlabs-australia-pinout.jpg?t=1416543556 You also need to run 5V to the L298N from the 5V pin on the arduino - he mentioned this above - everything can be small gauge wire as you're not dealing with high draws with the arduino stuff - that is the point of the relays, they isolate the high amperage actuators and just operate like a light switch between them and the battery.) (Tech detail on why: this jumper controls the onboard regulator which converts 12V or less power to a regulated 5V output on the 5V screw. This is super handy if you're dealing with <12V because you can power your arduino with this 5V output efficiently. That said, boats run at 14V+ when running and >12V will fry the regulator killing the motor board - and potentially your arduino and other accessories..)