Jump to content

2008_247lsv

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by 2008_247lsv

  1. how do you controls work are they automated?
  2. winterizing takes about 5 min these engines are car engines and were designed to have antifreeze running in them no corrosion in the block when you run antifreeze even if you forgot to winterize all you can really screw up in the heat exchanger and manifolds and I really did not have any bleeding issues for the most part. the first few time out I kept some antifreeze with me and topped it off every time I would stop, but I think that was just some air in the lines going up to the heater, I never overheated or had any problems really only downside is the shower kits do not work once you have closed cooling, but the good news is that it just forces you to remove the shower that is never used anyway and free up space
  3. I added closed cooling to my 8.1 the head exchanger was part of a universal 454 full system closed cooling kit i made a custom bracket that bolted to the back of the engine with two of the bell housing bolts and then onto the transmission made and extension on mu thermostat housing to but the fill cap the highest part of the motor used some flexible stainless hose for one of the water pump lines and a custom pipe with threaded port to tie heater in pretty simple set up I kept the manifolds cooled with lake water to make sure it did not overheat since i was not 100 percent sure of heat exchanger sizing, i have been running this setup for a few years now and usually runs right at 159-162 sometimes a little higher if im running wide open for a while but never over 170 hearer blows really hot even when i shut off the engine since it has its own circulating pump
  4. I assume by BEP you your talking about an auto voltage sensing relay that charges the main batteries first when the voltage comes up it just combines the banks which would allow for cross charge. the diode isolated systems work but you lose some voltage across the diode that is how i had done the batteries in my first boat the old supra that i restored I did use the DCP switch in mine so i can shut the batteries off when I'm not using the boat and to have the ability to combine if for some reason i would need to
  5. yea stock filter you can just rotate the filter and it clears the alternator but then the tray over the engine does not fit the silicon elbow i just got off amazon and then had to get a piece of pipe to connect the filter to the elbow and i just got some 1/4 alumnium tube and turned it down to fit Volvo Penta 8.1 496 Alternator Mounting Bracket # 3819032 http://www.volvopentastore.com/Serpentine-Belt-And-Alternator/dm/store_id.366--view_id.784911 i can get the part number of the belt for you and the pulley was just from advanced the idler pulley from pickup truck with an 8.1 I remember having to grind something on the bracket but don't remember what it was, but was not much that need ground down i got the bracket form ebay for about $60 https://www.ebay.com/itm/MARINE-VOLVO-PENTA-HD-NEW-ALTERNATOR-3860082-AC165622-HIGH-OUTPUT-130AMP-12391/362333299470?epid=21006444008&hash=item545cbf630e:g:UWMAAOSwfcVUIFbX that was the alternator I got 130 amp and I had to add a relay that just connected the excite wire to the charge post and the relay turned on with the ignition i was going to skip the relay and add a oil pressure switch so that the excite wire got power when oil pressure was present and not mess with the relay but did not feel like trying to get a port add a pressure switch cause I added closed cooling and my heat exchanger was in the way
  6. i wanted to run dual batteries in my boat but did not like the available options, not really a fan of the the auto charging relays cause they cause the good battery to charge the drained battery, I don't like the thought of having to flip a switch all the time to switch between batteries, so I separated the power in my boat the ignition and gauges are on one battery then i powered MUX module and my stereo on the the other battery and bought a second alternator have the second alternator hooked stereo battery, to add the second battery i was going to just buy a truck alternator bracket the mounts the alternator high and cut off the part of the bracket that holds the power steering pump, but then on ebay a came across a vovlo penta bracket for an 8.1 that mounted an alternator high and it fit perfect, the only thing i had to change was rotate the air filter a little to make it fit and change one idler form ribbed to smooth for the new belt routing, used a tape to get an approximate length on the belt and had Napa order me a few belts and found one that fit, the next project was where to mount two group 31 alternators so i made some shelf's out of aluminum and hung then in the back on my boat they bolt on where angle on the engine dividers bolt in then driller one hole in the boat to add a bolt towards the side of the boat and made a bracket that bolts the back of the shelf and bolts with hooks (u bolts lift points whatever you want to call them on the back of the boat) then I got 1/4 abs plastic like the engine dividers are made form and bent covers to go over the batteries and to me it blends in and looks factory.
  7. this is basically just a link to the page that describes the full rebuild of my supra rider i did about 10 years ago bought the boat for $1200 from the orginal owners sunk over $25000 into it and when i got everything working just right and finished I sold it for $14000 I was not sure where to put this but this like may help others there are a ton of pictures made molds to make custom fiberglass parts redid floor and stringers and then took back apart 2 years later to add sub-floor ballast tanks and made the floor completely out of fiberglass the second time re gel coated the entire boat rebuild engine and transmission https://suprarider.shutterfly.com/ this link makes it sound like its still for sale and for all i know it may be for sale now but not by me I sold it in 2011
×
×
  • Create New...