Y-Naut-Ski

Improved Towing Visibility This project is about improving your rearward view when towing – in this case, towing my boat. Background: I was asked to work the 2020 Sacramento Boat Show and was also asked to tow a boat up there from the Bay Area. I picked up the boat, which had a towing cover on it, and brought it to my house the afternoon before heading up to Sacramento. On that short drive home it was very hard to see what was behind me. I do not have towing mirrors, although they are available for my truck. The reason is my truck is always garaged and the towing mirrors are not power folding. Getting out of the truck just to fold the mirrors and unfold them was not going to work, especially in rainy weather. I needed another option. I was intrigued by the Chevy truck commercials with the “invisible” trailer so I did some research. I found out that the way the trailer becomes invisible is through a series of cameras and software, including a camera that is attached to the rear of the towed device. So, I thought “Hey I’ve got a GoPro. I’ll use that”. So I rigged it up to the boat and set out for Sacramento.. Two problems with that became apparent right way. First, the WiFi strength of the GoPro is week with respect to distance. The image kept freezing. Second (and most important), the image was backwards with no way to flip it. Left was right and right was left. That was not going to work. I started looking for a better option and came across RV backup cameras. I purchased a camera on Amazon that got good reviews. I also bought a 12volt plug and an iPad holder for my truck. There is a free app that you download for either iOS or Android that displays the camera image. RV back up cameras come in wired versions, with their own dedicated screens, and wireless versions, where you use your own screen (iPhone, iPad, Android device) and a Wifi hot spot created by the camera. I chose the WiFi version because I did not want another dedicated screen in my truck Plus the WiFi version makes it very portable. RV back up cameras are designed to be wired to the reverse lights on a trailer or RV, so they only are on when you are in reverse. However, they can be wired to a 12 volt source and be always on. That was the way I wired the camera. The camera can be mounted in a number of different ways. Here’s what I came up with. I discovered some time ago that Malibu v-drive pylons and Malibu tower pylons are 2 ½” in diameter. Schedule 80 PVC pipe comes in 2 ½” diameter. So that was a perfect fit. I purchased an end cap for the pipe, sanded it flat, drilled a ¼” hole in the center, and screwed the camera mount to the cap. I glued the cap to the pipe, pre-cut to the right length, and added a Velcro strap to make sure the camera stayed mounted to the pylon. The power cord that came with this camera is 10 foot long and bare ended. I stripped, soldered, and insulated the cord to the 12 volt plug. When I am ready to tow the boat I mount the camera over the tower pylon, lace the power cord around the tower bar down to the interior and plug it in to a 12 volt outlet. I turn the boat battery switch to “On” to make the 12 volt outlet hot. You can use a portable 12 volt power source if you don’t want to use your boat’s battery. Set up and removal time is less than 5 minutes. The app allows you to flip the image so your image is the same as what you see in your rear view mirrors. With my iPad Mini mounted in my truck using a cupholder mount, I turn on the iPad, switch the WiFi source to that of the camera, and launch the app. The image comes up almost immediately. The image is in color and clear. And there is a 140 degree of view. A bonus with boat towing is that when launching the boat you can see very clearly where you are when backing on the ramp. Here are some views of the iPad in my truck and what the camera is seeing. And here are some pictures while towing my boat on I80. I know this project was focused on boat towing but this sort of setup could be used with any type of trailer you want to see behind. You just need to devise a mount specific for your application and have a 12 volt power source. I’ve used a 12 volt motorcycle battery for testing and that worked just fine.

Extremely Accurate Fuel Level And Fuel Consumption Gauge This project was a collaboration by mkf21VLX and Mikeo Background: Automobiles and light trucks manufactured in the US starting in 1996 have been required to have On Board Diagnostics (OBD). The connector in one of these vehicles is known as ODBII. There are many tools and apps that you can plug into that OBDII port to see what your vehicle is doing. We wanted something like that for our boats. Boats are notoriously inaccurate in their fuel gauge readings. If you are lucky they read pessimistically (show less full than is really there). And most have no display of fuel consumption rate. We think most manufactures don’t want you to know. So the mission was two-fold. Get an accurate reading of fuel consumed and fuel remaining. And get an accurate fuel burn rate. In the marine world all boats manufactured from 2009 to present have been required by federal law to have a similar type of OBD as the automotive world. However, for whatever reason, the marine manufactures choose to use a different communication protocol for their solution. It is called OBD-M (M for marine). The protocol they chose is known as J1939. J1939 also is used extensively in the diesel powered vehicle world including diesel RV’s. After researching for several years a number of different fuel flow solutions, none were found that were either workable, elegant or inexpensive. And one more problem: mechanical fuel line transducer solutions won’t work in most modern boats because they either have fuel return lines (leading to inaccurate consumption rates) or pumps submerged in the fuel tank. While searching for J1939 based fuel management solution we came upon a company called Liner Logic. They have been making a product called the Scangauge for OBDII applications for a number of years. We actually each had one in our trucks. Then, a few years ago they made a version for the diesel RV market, the Scangauge-D. After consulting with Linear Logic we decided to give the Scangauge-D a shot. Your boat dealer/mechanic probably uses a program called Diacom running on a laptop computer and plugs it into the OBD-M connector on your boat. The screen display of the software shows all the parameters on the CAN BUS that can also be read by the Scangauge-D. Proof that the data is there is below.. Linear Logic was willing to give us the pin outs on the cable and the color codes to identify the four wires needed: 12+, ground, CAN+, CAN-. CAN stands for Controlled Area Network and is the BUS pathway for the J1939 communications. Here is the standard OBD-M 6 pin female connector (A – F, marked on the housing) found in the boats. Standard OBD-M pin assignments are: A: Battery 12+ B: Ground C: CAN+ D: CAN- E & F: not used Here is the OBD-M connector found under the dash of my 2013 Malibu VLX. Parts Needed: 1 x Scangauge D $159.95 (on Amazon) – see above https://smile.amazon.com/ScanGauge-SGDFFP-Vehicle-Monitor-Frustration/dp/B00VX2NP4W/ 1 x m5dlcm ($9.95) – OBD-M housing and 1 x pin6269 (5 pack $1.95) pins. You need the test (male) housing and test (male) pins. Suggestion: purchase an extra housing and extra pins in case you screw up. Once a pin is inserted in the housing it’s not coming back out (speaking from experience). https://www.obd2allinone.com/products/m5diag.asp Here’s how we built the cable: Cut the round connector off of the cable that came with the Scangauge-D. For a Malibu boat this works fine because Malibu puts a remote OBD-M connector under the dash. For other boats where the connector is only in the engine harness, a custom cable of appropriate length would need to be made to reach to the dash area. You would need to purchase either a heavy duty RJ45 cable or roll your own. Just make careful notes of the color codes and contact positions of the RJ45 plug to match up with the layout shown above. Use the Scangauge-D RJ45 end for reference. Scangauge-D RJ45 – right to left pin positions 1: black - ground 2: brown – J1939+ (CAN+) 3: red – J1939- (CAN-) 4: orange 5: yellow 6: <empty> 7: <empty> 8: green – 12+ power Assemble as follows: 1) Connect the Scangauge-D cable leads 1 (black), 2 (brown), 3 (red), 8 (green) to the male pins. First they were soldered them then crimped. 2) Slip a 3” piece of heat shrink tubing over the cable 3) Insert the male pins into the male housing. Green into A position, Black into B position, Brown into C position, Red into D position 4) Install the provided strain relief 5) Slide the heat shrink tubing as close to the housing as possible and apply heat to shrink it in place 6) Apply liquid electrical tape to the pin side of the housing to provide a water resistant seal. This is especially important if the OBD-M connector is going to be in located at the engine harness. 7) Mount the Scangauge-D in a convenient location using Velcro, plug the RJ45 cable end into the gauge, and route the cable to the OBD-M connector. In the case of Malibu, this is under the dash. Here is what the completed connector looks like. Setting Up The Scangauge-D: The Scangauge-D needs to be configured to work properly. The Quick Start Guide will give you the basics. Distance units can be set to Miles although the will be no data since there is no odometer in the boat. The scangauge-D does not use or interface with GPS. Do, however, set fuel units, temperature units, pressure units, currency type, and, most importantly, your tank size. On the main screen you will see four items with a button adjacent to them. They are Scan, Gauge, Trip, More. # Scan is for identifying and clearing DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) # Gauge is where you will be most of the time. This is where the CAN BUS readings are found. GPH and HP (horsepower) are two example. # Trip is where the tracking data is found. Examples are fuel consumed, fuel remaining, average GPH. # More is where you go for things like resetting the tracking data after a fill-up. Special Notes: # Refill must be entered manually for accurate calculations. # Trip A and Trip B need to reset after fill-up, before driving. # Change the TRIP method to AB: select MORE>SETUP>scroll to ADV SETTINGS>EDIT>scroll to TRIPS>change from DAYS to AB. With the trip method set to AB, the Scangauge-D will now save data when it sees the boat comes to a stop with the engine off. If you want to have Trip gauges display on the Gauges screen you can use the XGauge function to create those. Two that you will probably want are gallons used and gallons remaining. How to program them can be found on page #46 of: https://www.scangauge.com/download/2072/ . Briefly, these are the settings. Note: the NAME can be anything you like as long as it is 4 letters/numbers or less. Memory 0 TXD 13 RXF 80000... RXD 0000 MTH 0000... NAME TFU (Total Fuel Used) or TKU (TanK Used) Memory 1 TXD 24 ** RXF 80000... RXD 0000 MTH 0000... NAME TFR (Total Fuel Remaining) or TKR (TanK Remaining) ** TXD 24 doesn’t make sense but we worked with Linear Logic to get this code. TXD 23 does not work. Their instructions as published are incorrect. It is not our intent to explain every aspect of the Scangauge-D in this project posting. The manual supplied with the unit is pretty easy to understand. So ….. After initial setup of the Scangauge-D including, most importantly, fuel tank capacity, the gauge was put in service. After a couple of tanks of fuel, and following the calibration guidelines, we can state that when we go to fill up our tanks, we are within 1 gallon of what the Scangauge-D says was used, sometimes as little as 0.1 gallon difference. Differences can occur by using different fueling stations, different pumps at the same station, how precise you are during your fillup, etc. Being within a gallon of actual use is pretty good. In addition to fuel burn rate (which can be scary at times depending on what you are doing), you can get readings such as horsepower, torque, throttle position, and a bunch of others. Up to four data elements can displayed at any one time on the Scangauge-D. Here are some pictures of the unit in place and functioning. This project has been installed in a ’13 VLX, ’15 LSV, and even tested it in a Mastercraft 2015 Prostar with an Ilmor engine.

This project fixed a problem I was having with my Malibu G3 tower knobs. This fix can be used by anyone with a first generation (2010-14) G3 tower who opted for the tower knobs. Background: The knobs on my tower, which secure it in the upright position, kept coming loose. No matter how tight I got them, including using the built-in allen wrench socket, they would loosen up. Especially when towing. I had the starboard side knob come off on 4 separate tow trips. Fortunately the knob fell into the boat each time and not on the road. At $100 each (Malibu's price) that would have been expensive. I tried using lock washers, star washers, boosting the tower tight with a jack before tightening the knobs. All failed. So I set about trying to come up with a solution to keep the knobs in place and tight. I considered fabricating a leash, using some kind of collar made from PVC, and some other crazy ideas before I came upon the one that worked. And I also wanted the solution to look good. I went to Home Depot with an idea in mind. In the plumbing section I found a 2" rubber end cap for ABS pipe that fit the knob perfectly. I purchased 2 and removed the included hose clamps. To secure the cap to the tower I used a 24" length of 1 1/2" nylon webbing with a quick release clamp. I had the webbing and clamps from an earlier project but those materials can be purchased online at McMaster-Carr or at JoAnne Fabrics. I sewed the receiving end clamp permanently in place, put the end cap on the knob on the tower and placed the webbing over the end cap and over the tower bracket. I put the adjustable end of the quick release clamp on the webbing and adjusted the strap where I thought it should be when fastened together. I marked the strap where it crossed the end cap on both edges then removed the pieces. I decided on using pop rivets with washers on the inside of the cap and outside of the strap to secure the strap to the end cap. I drilled two 1/8" holes from the inside of the end cap opposite each other as close the the edge as possible and through the webbing. Then I installed the rivets and added a dab of black paint to make the rivets blend in. The end result is what I loosely refer to as my tower knob jock straps. Once I have tower in the upright position the straps go one and stay on, even while on the water. In the two plus years and 6000 plus miles I've had the straps on I have not only not lost a knob but not once have they even loosened up. The end cap has a slight convex shape to it and that helps add pressure to the knob while the snug fit of the rubber in combination with the strap keeps the knob from turning. The total cost of the project was about $20 and the time was 1.5 hours. IMHO I think it looks pretty good too.

Here is a solution for those wakesurf board owners who want portable protection for their boards when loaded in a tower rack. I have several wakesurf boards that are very light and, therefore, somewhat fragile. For example, I have 2 Ronix carbon fiber boards and a Ronix Technora board. And since I surf not only my own boat but others too, I wanted something to protect my boards when they are in a rack. I came up with a a neoprene board wrap that I dub the Board Belt. I purchased a sheet of 6 mm neoprene (the thickest I could find) that was nylon covered on both sides. I choose a gray on one side, black on the other combination. I got mine at Foam Order, located in Richmond, CA. It is about $92 for a 83" x 51" sheet plus tax and shipping. That is enough material to make about 4 Board Belts. I then went to JoAnn Fabrics and bought a piece of 2" wide heavy elastic waistband. That was about $12 for the quantity I purchased. I then cut the neoprene on the 83" side into about 20" wide strips. Now I had 4 53" x 20" pieces. My boards run from about 22" to 23" wide so 53" is more than enough length to wrap the board and have enough material for the inside joining. I then located a auto upholstery shop to sew up the pieces together along with hemming the sides with the elastic band. I was charged about $40 for that work. The finished product is a band that easily slip off or on the board, wet or dry, that cushions the board when in the racks. I have driven my boat is some pretty rough conditions with the boards in the racks and I have yet to get a ding in any my boards. BTW, I do not leave my boards in the racks once I'm finished surfing and am back at the dock. I take the down and either put them in their bags (the Board Belt fits fine) or cover them with towels.