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cowwboy

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Everything posted by cowwboy

  1. Wow, you did an amazing job. I love the use of unused space. The colors on the boat are amazing to.
  2. Yeah that may be a hard one finding speakers that would fit when jamming 8's in there. I'd love to be able to put a set of WS 10's in there!
  3. Sometime soon I will be removing the windshield and seeing if I can squeeze 8s in the dash. Haven't seen anyone else do it yet. But doesn't mean it can't be done. Lol
  4. I have been wanting to enlarge the interior speakers for a while and decided the new skars were a good reason to kick it off. I measured the available space and figured out I could barely fit the 8's where the 6.5's fit. I removed the seat base from the boat and used the template for the new speakers to mark a new cut out path. I cut the carpet along the line I drew and then used a router to trace that path. I had to move the aluminum braces on the back of the seat base the the furthermost top and bottom. But was able to retain them. Sadly I was kind of in a hurry to get the project done so didn't take many pictures. This was a fairly easy project since I have had to remove that seat base piece before and finding the screws hidden by carpet is not fun at all. Please excuse how dirty the carpet is.
  5. It's the factory rubber lines. The only thing I purchased was the 60 degree bends.
  6. Well after years of using the fenders as the step into the boat. And fighting the flimsy fender mounts cracking from vibration. I decided to build a nice strong step / fender mount. I started with two cardboard templates and decided to go with the larger design. I still prefer the sleeker look of the triangle shaped step though. I started with .25" thick 5" flat bar and welded it into the side of the I-beam, the fender mount portion has a slight angle to try to match the fender. I also added a piece of aluminum conduit for the guide poles. Then I welded diamond plate to the top of it all trying to weld from the bottom so as to not show off my ugly welds. I have thought of trying to do something on the side plates to be more decorative. Like a light up Malibu emblem or something like that. I don't have completed pics, but this is some of the damage done from how flexible the I-beams are currently. I have had to repair two of the other cross braces before. I welded the crack from both sides, welded the cross support to the frame, and then added gussets under the boat that are welded to the top/side of the cross tube and into the bottom and web of the I-beam. I will be adding quite a few more gussets and supports to the I-beams to stop the flex. Looking online it appears it is not uncommon to have flex crack failures on these I-beam trailers.
  7. If they can get their device to talk nmea2k that could also help with integration.
  8. I can't wait to see the results. Are you going to do a industrial mount tablet or a docking station for a off the shelf model?
  9. I don't have the part #. I got mine from great lakes skipper. If I remember correctly they made 2 sizes. So if it's close to the dimensions of your dash get it. The parts are only going to get harder to get as these boats get older.
  10. Great write up. I have had issues with rust in the past between the dust shield and the square o-ring. They don't put any coatings there so it gets rust build up and freezes the piston.
  11. @jtryonand @berndtmjlets see some pics. Glad I could be of help.
  12. Unfortunately his patent ensures he has no competition.
  13. Yours looks much better then mine. These are the pics I sent to them. No offer to repair or fix them. Got a half azz excuse of a new welder and told if I wanted it to look good I should have paid the extra to have them grind them smooth.
  14. I think that is the first time I have heard of him using a mandrel bend. Between direct sales and the royalty's from the boat manufacturers. He should have a nice fab shop by now.
  15. I love the principal. Their craftsmanship and material is crap. The welds look like a blind man did them and they still use pie cuts instead of mandrel bends. When I first received mine, I called about the welds. They told me pretty much I should have paid extra for them to grind their sh#t welds down.
  16. I took it out last night to check it out and ensure I didn't have any leaks. It is quite a bit quieter at no wake speeds. There is no exhaust note sound anymore. When I had the hatch open you could hear the intake hiss over the exhaust. At speed you still can't hear the motor over the wind and water noise. But unfortunately I don't have a good video of the boat before I did the muffler delete. They all have the radio going in the background covering any engine noise.
  17. Then the stock flappers will protect from back feeding water into the exhaust.
  18. Not really, it'd take a lot of force to go through the fae then into a singular open exhaust valve.
  19. Here is the bend I bought. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UO49QA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I first got this one, but the straight portion of the legs were to short. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084C158NT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
  20. Here is the video my buddy did of the install of my FAE on my boat.
  21. So in the constant search of making maintenance easier. I decided to join the club and do a muffle delete since I have A FAE installed. I got the Mandrel bent 60 degree bends from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UO49QA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I then removed the existing muffler by loosening the clamps and using lots of silicone spray between the rubber and the riders/ muffler. I used a flathead screw driver to make a gap so I could get the lubricant to soak in. It was a slow process of creating the gap, then removing the screw driver and trying to wiggle it to get the lubricant spread around. Then repeating that to get it loose. I then pushed the screw driver far enough in the tip was past the end of the riser. This allowed me to use it as a pry bar to pry the rubber tubing off the riser. Repeat the process to remove the rubber tubing from the muffler outlet. I can actually see my water pump now. I had to trim mine up the bend to fit. The first bend I ordered did not have long enough legs. So when I ordered the second one I got one with much longer legs. I had to assemble mine outside the boat and install it as a whole to get all of the hoses on. I would recommend leaving the clamps loose till you have everything aligned. Now look at how much more room there is!!! One thing I did notice was that the muffler was hollow. I figured it would have some packing or baffles of some kind in it. Or maybe after 1k hours mine was burnt out. I haven't had a chance to take it out to see if there is much of a sound difference yet.
  22. How hard do you think it'll be to narrow one? I know the back hoop unbolts so it's be easy to modify or make a new one. But looking at the main hoop. It looks as if you could just cut out the center and then weld it back with a sleeved center for support. Is the pull spool an easy piece to cut off and weld back on?
  23. If you ever decide to upgrade you may take a look at DD's line. Their CT45 looks identical to the horn WS uses. https://ddaudio.com/speaker/vo-w10a/?toolset_maps_distance_center=73013&toolset_maps_distance_radius=60&toolset_maps_distance_unit=mi&wpv_aux_current_post_id=48610&wpv_aux_parent_post_id=48610&wpv_view_count=77107 https://ddaudio.com/speaker/vo-ct45/?toolset_maps_distance_center=73013&toolset_maps_distance_radius=60&toolset_maps_distance_unit=mi&wpv_aux_current_post_id=1390&wpv_aux_parent_post_id=1390&wpv_view_count=77107 https://ddaudio.com/speaker/vo-ctal/?toolset_maps_distance_center=73013&toolset_maps_distance_radius=60&toolset_maps_distance_unit=mi&wpv_aux_current_post_id=1402&wpv_aux_parent_post_id=1402&wpv_view_count=77107 If you felt froggy they even have a 15" midbass.
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