cowwboy
Members-
Posts
253 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
29
Content Type
Shop Talk
Gallery
Marketplace
Downloads
Articles
Completed Projects Database
Blogs
Events
Profiles
Everything posted by cowwboy
-
Wow, you did an amazing job. I love the use of unused space. The colors on the boat are amazing to.
-
Upgrading from 6.5 to 8's in seat base
cowwboy commented on cowwboy's project in Sound System Projects
Yeah that may be a hard one finding speakers that would fit when jamming 8's in there. I'd love to be able to put a set of WS 10's in there! -
Upgrading from 6.5 to 8's in seat base
cowwboy commented on cowwboy's project in Sound System Projects
Sometime soon I will be removing the windshield and seeing if I can squeeze 8s in the dash. Haven't seen anyone else do it yet. But doesn't mean it can't be done. Lol -
I have been wanting to enlarge the interior speakers for a while and decided the new skars were a good reason to kick it off. I measured the available space and figured out I could barely fit the 8's where the 6.5's fit. I removed the seat base from the boat and used the template for the new speakers to mark a new cut out path. I cut the carpet along the line I drew and then used a router to trace that path. I had to move the aluminum braces on the back of the seat base the the furthermost top and bottom. But was able to retain them. Sadly I was kind of in a hurry to get the project done so didn't take many pictures. This was a fairly easy project since I have had to remove that seat base piece before and finding the screws hidden by carpet is not fun at all. Please excuse how dirty the carpet is.
-
It's the factory rubber lines. The only thing I purchased was the 60 degree bends.
-
Well after years of using the fenders as the step into the boat. And fighting the flimsy fender mounts cracking from vibration. I decided to build a nice strong step / fender mount. I started with two cardboard templates and decided to go with the larger design. I still prefer the sleeker look of the triangle shaped step though. I started with .25" thick 5" flat bar and welded it into the side of the I-beam, the fender mount portion has a slight angle to try to match the fender. I also added a piece of aluminum conduit for the guide poles. Then I welded diamond plate to the top of it all trying to weld from the bottom so as to not show off my ugly welds. I have thought of trying to do something on the side plates to be more decorative. Like a light up Malibu emblem or something like that. I don't have completed pics, but this is some of the damage done from how flexible the I-beams are currently. I have had to repair two of the other cross braces before. I welded the crack from both sides, welded the cross support to the frame, and then added gussets under the boat that are welded to the top/side of the cross tube and into the bottom and web of the I-beam. I will be adding quite a few more gussets and supports to the I-beams to stop the flex. Looking online it appears it is not uncommon to have flex crack failures on these I-beam trailers.
-
If they can get their device to talk nmea2k that could also help with integration.
-
I can't wait to see the results. Are you going to do a industrial mount tablet or a docking station for a off the shelf model?
-
I don't have the part #. I got mine from great lakes skipper. If I remember correctly they made 2 sizes. So if it's close to the dimensions of your dash get it. The parts are only going to get harder to get as these boats get older.
-
Rebuild UFP-35 Trailer Calipers
cowwboy commented on Dukeno1's project in Trailer Modification Projects
Great write up. I have had issues with rust in the past between the dust shield and the square o-ring. They don't put any coatings there so it gets rust build up and freezes the piston. -
@jtryonand @berndtmjlets see some pics. Glad I could be of help.
-
Unfortunately his patent ensures he has no competition.
-
Yours looks much better then mine. These are the pics I sent to them. No offer to repair or fix them. Got a half azz excuse of a new welder and told if I wanted it to look good I should have paid the extra to have them grind them smooth.
-
I think that is the first time I have heard of him using a mandrel bend. Between direct sales and the royalty's from the boat manufacturers. He should have a nice fab shop by now.
-
I love the principal. Their craftsmanship and material is crap. The welds look like a blind man did them and they still use pie cuts instead of mandrel bends. When I first received mine, I called about the welds. They told me pretty much I should have paid extra for them to grind their sh#t welds down.
-
20210519_184643.mp4
-
Yes
-
I took it out last night to check it out and ensure I didn't have any leaks. It is quite a bit quieter at no wake speeds. There is no exhaust note sound anymore. When I had the hatch open you could hear the intake hiss over the exhaust. At speed you still can't hear the motor over the wind and water noise. But unfortunately I don't have a good video of the boat before I did the muffler delete. They all have the radio going in the background covering any engine noise.
-
Then the stock flappers will protect from back feeding water into the exhaust.
-
Not really, it'd take a lot of force to go through the fae then into a singular open exhaust valve.
-
Here is the bend I bought. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UO49QA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I first got this one, but the straight portion of the legs were to short. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084C158NT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
-
-
So in the constant search of making maintenance easier. I decided to join the club and do a muffle delete since I have A FAE installed. I got the Mandrel bent 60 degree bends from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UO49QA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I then removed the existing muffler by loosening the clamps and using lots of silicone spray between the rubber and the riders/ muffler. I used a flathead screw driver to make a gap so I could get the lubricant to soak in. It was a slow process of creating the gap, then removing the screw driver and trying to wiggle it to get the lubricant spread around. Then repeating that to get it loose. I then pushed the screw driver far enough in the tip was past the end of the riser. This allowed me to use it as a pry bar to pry the rubber tubing off the riser. Repeat the process to remove the rubber tubing from the muffler outlet. I can actually see my water pump now. I had to trim mine up the bend to fit. The first bend I ordered did not have long enough legs. So when I ordered the second one I got one with much longer legs. I had to assemble mine outside the boat and install it as a whole to get all of the hoses on. I would recommend leaving the clamps loose till you have everything aligned. Now look at how much more room there is!!! One thing I did notice was that the muffler was hollow. I figured it would have some packing or baffles of some kind in it. Or maybe after 1k hours mine was burnt out. I haven't had a chance to take it out to see if there is much of a sound difference yet.
-
Retrofitting a G3 Tower to older boat
cowwboy commented on Rugger's project in Tower / Racks / Bimini Projects
How hard do you think it'll be to narrow one? I know the back hoop unbolts so it's be easy to modify or make a new one. But looking at the main hoop. It looks as if you could just cut out the center and then weld it back with a sleeved center for support. Is the pull spool an easy piece to cut off and weld back on? -
If you ever decide to upgrade you may take a look at DD's line. Their CT45 looks identical to the horn WS uses. https://ddaudio.com/speaker/vo-w10a/?toolset_maps_distance_center=73013&toolset_maps_distance_radius=60&toolset_maps_distance_unit=mi&wpv_aux_current_post_id=48610&wpv_aux_parent_post_id=48610&wpv_view_count=77107 https://ddaudio.com/speaker/vo-ct45/?toolset_maps_distance_center=73013&toolset_maps_distance_radius=60&toolset_maps_distance_unit=mi&wpv_aux_current_post_id=1390&wpv_aux_parent_post_id=1390&wpv_view_count=77107 https://ddaudio.com/speaker/vo-ctal/?toolset_maps_distance_center=73013&toolset_maps_distance_radius=60&toolset_maps_distance_unit=mi&wpv_aux_current_post_id=1402&wpv_aux_parent_post_id=1402&wpv_view_count=77107 If you felt froggy they even have a 15" midbass.