Jeffo

We surf year round and this past winter, my 11 year old grand daughter starting going out with us on cold days. We were on my buddy's boat in December and he had a heater.... when Taya wasn't surfing, she was bundled up and had that tube inserted in the bundle. me being the fat F that I am had always relied on the walrus effect for heat. well, I broke down and ordered a 3 port 42,000btu unit from heatcraft up in Idaho. when the unit came, I laid everything out and saw that I hadn't ordered a circ pump. theirs was pretty pricey so I got one on Amazon for $70. it met the specs of heatcrafts but was built for solar hot water. It works fine on 12 volts. i mounted the unit by drilling and bolting it to the rear seat framing just above the vdrive. I ran a tube and vent to cockpit area. i also ran a tube to stud and port sides. I didn't want to drill the seat bases and take up storage and speaker room. So I ordered ABS sheet- 3/16 thick and drilled 2 tube ports. I made one for each side and put them in place of the trays ( that seem to collect garbage) between the cup holders. I put a y on each duct and made new tube holders out of 3" abs pipe. so I have 4- 6' tubes. 2 per side plus the driver vent. I ran the hoses to the marked fittings on the engine.next, I ran the wire to the existing heater switch. I tied the pump power into the fan power. I believe that this project was worthwhile for what we do and was well worth the money. jeffo

Wanted some underwater transom lights. i liked the looks of the Atwood light armor lights. So I got 4 of them. they have 12 leds each and are 3250 lumens each. first, I had to pick spots that weren't going to interfere with th surfplates and that were pretty flat. the drilling is easy after doing a ballast add. I then wired them into the existing surf light wires and switch. then I put some string leds on the swim deck. I took off the rubrail, and ran the string through a length of 11/4" clear tubing. I used the stainless rubrail bracket to hold the tubing in place. It is pretty tough to keep the stainless lined up and not screw the lights. So a helper is a big plus. I wired this into the surf lights also. next, I ran 6-6" led floods on the tower and ran the wires to the front ones to the tower light switch. I put green and red film over the front facing for"navigation" the four rearfacing, I ran to an accy. switch.

So when I bought my 2015 B52, it had factory surf system, MB Switch Gen 2. It produced a good wave but not great...(to me). i read all of the threads about the slappers and knew that the Ghetto Gate worked well on my Sanger V230. i wanted the slapper effect, but I wanted to use what I had on hand, not buy more stuff and throw out the brand new existing! so, I sat behind Blue for hours trying to come up with an idea that was cost effective and not too labor intensive. first, I made a plywood mockup to check angles and motion. then I broke out my trusty plasma and TIG gear and got to work. i already had some 3/16" stainless on hand. So I cut out a plate to replace the factory one and another in the shape of the slapper. I welded it up then used 3/8" stainless tubing to make the hinge-half. I pulled the existing hinge pin and dropped the factory plate and replaced it with my new one( on each side). So I kept the Factor actuators and brackets and the hinge-half that was already mounted to the boat. It also uses the factory controller. engage at 7 disengage at 15 or at stop. It drops in from a 45 deg. Angle and the slapper is set at app. 28 deg. To clear the swimstep when up. im much happier with the wave on both sides. I later added hdpe to them to look a little better and increase the size

My therapist, my Surfing partner, says I have an obsession with boat exhaust.... I don't want to hear, smell, see the steam, or taste it while I'm behind the boat. I've posted once about my silent Stinger project. At the time I did it, I was torn between two ideas. so, this is the other idea I had and I think that it is actually the better of the 2. what about running a tailpipe similar to FAE thru the Wake plate??? Then you wouldn't need to run a cheesy bracket or worry about it falling off or changing position on you. Just how to make the exhaust flexible enough to move with the adjustable plate. So, my first step was to decide which Wake plate design I liked best. Centurions Stinger plate. I made a couple of changes, drew it out, and plasma cut it out of 11ga. 304 stainless. then, I needed to bend the batwings. I didn't have a break, so I made one from 1/2"x12"x48" steel and some angle iron. Since I was running thru a flat plate, I made a collector chamber from a 3.5" stainless tube and 2 1/2" stainless channel. The exhaust outlet is 3.5" stainless tube that I crushed between two plates using clamps. Then I angle cut both ends to flow it aft and down. Ordered a 3/8" hinge on Amazon, and some 3.5" wet exhaust hose also. Made an adjustable bracket to tie in the actuator( Hyperryd 's idea). Welded it up, mounted it and tested on the Delta. It is quiet, still have wave adjustability, lost 3mph at top end, just like with my FAE. the bat wings really cleaned up the goofy wave. The regular wave seems a little flatter but has plenty of push and still very surfable. I may shorten the starboard side wing to see if it changes. some of the pics are an asymmetric version for a friend.