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SONICJK

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Everything posted by SONICJK

  1. For what it's worth I used my GSA clones for launching up to 18-20mph without issue. My favorite system at the moment I think is the new tige tabs or the supra swell. I like the design of the tige tabs (gsa without the diverter fins, seem to put out just as good if not better wave as the gsa they had before) and Love the actuator mounting method on the swell tabs.
  2. Really Nicely done! This is the sh#t I like to see right here, real work! Any idea what happened to it? Looks like it was either run fully aground at high speed or dropped from a sling lift onto the concrete
  3. Really well done, i don't think anyone would know it's not factory by looking at it.
  4. Yep these maradynes have vents that swivel so you can aim them as well. Yes it's all part of closed cooling so no winterization needed
  5. Hell yeah! I've been wanting someone to give this a go, best of both worlds. So is the wave with the gate and the tab better enough to justify the additional cost and time?
  6. Thanks Guys, labor of love haha. @rhino89523the wheel wasn't too spendy. Greatlakesskipper has a great selection of them, big upgrade over the plastic junk of the era for 100 bucks or so.
  7. Thanks guys, it's simple and most everyone here probably already knows that stuff but I put it up mostly to show that a DIYer can easily fix new boats too.
  8. Mu Supra had a manufacturing defect in the platform, just a little gel void that popped and was an eye sore. Covered under warranty but sometimes It's just not worth the hassle and I'd rather just fix it myself. Gel coat is really easy to repair especially if you can get a matching gel. Spectrum makes paste repair kits (in the picture) for most makes and models just put in your year. Older more faded boats it probably won't match perfect but it's still a lot better than a gouge! Tape it up (I use 2 layers so you don't have to worry so much about sanding through it on the rough paper) Mix the gel according to the instructions and slather it on there going in every direction to get it in all the voids. Doesn't have to be pretty you're sanding it all off anyway. Sand it back, I start with 150 grit, you can go lower but it takes longer to get the scratches out. 150 is aggressive enough IMO. Once its roughed out you can remove the tape and go to 400 grit. From there it's up to 1000 grit Then 2000 then a quick rub with some buffing compound and you're good as new: Same deal works for dock rash, scratches, gouges, hole patching etc.
  9. Awesome, so king to talulah took you from 9 min to 5 min that's a pretty solid increase!
  10. Yep, I double bagged and sealed all mine but there's always the potential for that to break. I don't put them on the upholstery just in case.
  11. Nice! Good find on the bags, how's the quality? I ordered bags from POP Products (just the bags) for about 10 bucks each and then filled them with plasma slag (I have 1000's of lbs of it every month) easy and cheap! If you can find something denser than sand you could double the weight in those bags pretty easily if you wanted to. To late now probably but throw the sand/steel/lead etc into a ziploc or poly bag before filling so it stays put and stays dry.
  12. Mine is difficult as well, I just close it from the water myself it's very tough to close from the platform.
  13. I did not keep the flappers on mine. Never had an issue. I have heard horror stories though so it's generally a better idea to keep them if you can.
  14. Wooooooow they should be ashamed of that one for sure. I would have done a charge back on the card personally that's some BS
  15. Yeah welds look pretty amateur hour. I don't think not being centered is that big of a deal honestly but the welds like crappy. You'd think after all the breakages they have been having they would have hired a proper welder by now or gotten a robot.
  16. not really no, the exhaust system is so short and large that it doesn't make much difference. Some people lose a mph or two on the top end but Id say it's from the drag not the performance loss.
  17. Ha! That is what it looks like. Already worth the effort just climbing in and out of the boat yesterday
  18. Yeah it will just be held on with 4 bolts if it needs to come off any time, going to drill and tap the trailer for the bolts
  19. Haven't tried it yet, it will still fold but the ladder may contact the boat before its at 90 degrees. I've never folded it anyway so it doesn't make a lot of difference to me if it folds down or not. When boatmate does a bow ladder they add 24" to the tongue so it's not an issue.
  20. My supra is just too damn tall haha. Freeboard is awesome in the water but it's a bear to climb in and out of on land. To remedy that I'm building a bow ladder for the trailer. I started with some 3/16 plate and a 2.5" square tube with 1/8" walls. Cut some steps to match the shape of the front of the boat. Then started welding: then I bent up a mount to fit over the trailer tongue and welded it on Time for test fit: like a glove! Tomorrow I'll get it sandblasted and powder coated white and bolt it up. I'll probably put some EVA on top as well for traction. Overall easy fun project that should make boating more enjoyable. In the oven: And out of the oven: Folding test, about 70-75% fold. I could change the top step shape to get it to 90 easily if needed but it makes me no difference. And clearance to the front of the boat: Just need to add EVA and bolt it on now
  21. Talk them into buying a widebelt sander ;D
  22. Thanks guys. Did some for a friend for a new MB A little different on the shape to match an existing part.
  23. Nice how do the fosgates sound? I've had several in car setups that I was always pretty happy with.
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