Shadetreefab

I really like the newer malibu racks, so I decided to make some fit my illusion tower. Its an 1"3/8 between the front factory hole and new hole one, 1"3/8 new hole one to new hole two, then pilot hole with 1/8" bit. Then in I used a step bit to open up the holes some what. 3/4" counter sink the second new hole. Making sure the screw sits a little past flush. Finish size of middle hole is 27/64 and new counter sunk hole is 7/16. 1/2"-13nc tap, tap the center hole. Take it slow and use cutting oil, if you don't have any use anti seize I like to back the tap out and clean the hole and tap every time around. Blow out with air, if no compressor use caned air for cleaning keyboard. Put screws in counter sunk holes, place ss t-nuts on back, finger tight. Had to clean out and open up dowel holes on tower. Put mount on tower and insert 1/2" bolt from inside, snug down, then tighten counter sunk screws. Slide rack on mount, get it to where the end of rack just covers the mount, tighten set screw to leave a mark on back of rack, then remove and drill small spot at mark to grab the set screw, I had to cut down an old Allen wrench to fit the set screw. Not a lot of room between it and tower Slide rack on tighten set screw, @Rugger dose this count as one-upping? Back at it, I found out there are at least two different mounting plates. One aluminum and one stainless, the aluminum one has two small stand off on it. With the stand off and thickness of the t-nut base pushed the mounting out off the tower and created a gap that I didn't like.. So I knocked down the stand offs and cut pockets to recesse the t-nut base, did this with a drimel and hand file So now the fit with no gap to tower. stainless steel mount-drill, tap and counter sink like the aluminum one, it didn't have the stand offs so just had to cut in the t-nut pockets.

Replaced every thing on tower. Using kicker km8's good price, I like the rgb's and they sound decent, fished new wire for speaker/rgb's through out. Exile 30.2 powering 2 sets @ 2 ohms. inboats- 8 kicker km654 on an alpine pdx4 @2 and 4 kicker 6x9's on a zx450.2 wired series/parallel @4 bridged sub- Phoenix gold elite ti-12, custom slot port box to clear the heater. On a alpine mrx110 @2, it's a dual 4 ohm coil wired to 2 ohms for 1150 rms, it slaps pretty good. Two interstate agm' mt-7 34 and a m31 0/1 to distribution blocks then 4g to amps, blue seas arc and 2 circuit switch rgb's in all kicker km8/km654, rgb strip lights above the 3 cup holder cubbys. 4 rgb cup holders in custom hidden wire table all ran off a wet sounds 4 zone controller, (inboat,tower,cup holder, table) IMG_1676.MOV

3 johnson reversables, 2 mounted to a 4 pump rack that is bolted to the rear grab handle studs behind the motor, 1 more is mounted on a ss t bracket next to the bow tank drain pump, I used the front drain plug for the front pump intake. Two new intakes next to oil pan for the rear/mid pumps. All three have ball valve shut offs. All wiring is 12g marine duplex with deutsch connectors and I had 4 open spots on the factory beaker panel, replaced 3 of them with 25 amp breakers. All hose is 1" wakemakers. Fitting are a mix of ronix,sumo,dry-loc and flow rite. Front is for bow bag, mid is seat/floor bags and rear is locker bag, f/m are quick connect so no hose's is laying around when not surfing, f is above cup holder, m is behind driver seat.