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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Winner!! Congrats to @Shadetreefab for winning the drawing. Thanks again to Glide Bearings for hooking up Wake Garage members, again! They have the best products and great people! Glide will contact you directly to send your system and swag!
  2. 4 points
    1983 ski nautique 2001. Needs a deipless shaft seal. Wheels and tires on the trailer.
  3. 4 points
    I did a lot of research over the last year and finally pulled the trigger. I purchased the Go Surf Assist system from Wakemakers and had my local dealer install on my 2011 Malibu VRide21 (05 - 08 VLX hull.) It was the installers first GSA install so I had Ryan from GSA guide him through my hull specific details and general installation. Two issues arose with install of the tabs on my hull. 1. Both Tab hinges needed to be modified around swim platform bump out on hull to ensure hinge was above bottom of hull. 2. Tab had to be installed 2" in from side of hull because of swim platform and actuator clearance. 4" is the recommended measurement but GSA gives a 2" tolerance in either direction. Ryan also suggested that the tab angle at max deployment be set at 8 to 10 degrees for malibu hulls of this era. This max angle will be the skim style setting on the controller. My install resulted in 8* max deployment (skim style) and almost 0* (level with hull) minimum deployment for surf style wave. I thought this was backwards, but confirmed it with Ryan and he said this install should be ideal. There are also 3 angle settings on the controller between surf and skim settings for adjusting the wave. It is also important for the tabs to retract as close the the swim platform brackets as possible when stowed to avoid potential wash in the wave. I can just fit my pinky in between platform and tab for reference. The controller is nice and easy to use. It has some nice features. One feature is lift mode, which dramatically improved my 0-22 mph time by approx 6 seconds with full ballast for wakeboarding! I'm at 3000 ft with 350 motor and 2419 acme prop.I was really impressed and the tabs retract automatically at 15 or 16 mph once you are on plane.It also will connect to Apple devices via bluetooth and the E61 surf app to allow remote control from Apple device. The newer controller also sets the tabs by default to your last setting on the dial. So if you have the dial set to surf, when you hit surf left, the tab will deploy to the 0* angle on my setup. The older controllers always defaulted to max deployment regardless of last setting and adjustments needed to be made each time. I have water tested the system and am really impressed with wave and system performance. I have not surfed it yet because of cold water temp so all observations are from inside the boat. Ballast setup during testing: Bow: 750 plumbed bow bag on seat, 200 lead (no front tank on vride) Midship: 580 bag plumbed in place of hard tank, 370 plumbed bag under coffin seat port side, 600 lbs in peeps, 3/4 full fuel tank, 300 lead moved around as needed. Rear: 400 hard tanks, 1500 plumbed bags, floating wedge. GSA tabs. Update: I forgot to mention a few other details. Transfers were clocked just under 3 seconds, Tabs provided some lift and lowered the bow significantly, especially when in skim setting. Nose will rise slightly in surf setting vs skim, but both had less bow rise than same weight setup with a suckgate. My shorter drivers will really appreciate this result.
  4. 3 points
    Dammit!!!! I just bought one last week. but thats ok I don't have Facebook. Here is a pic of my boat anyway 2000 Tige 21 V. The Smart Wheel Good luck to everyone else.
  5. 3 points
    2005 Malibu VLX i want to do a drip less seal system
  6. 3 points
    Not a big project --- but after having a few instances over the years where we ended up with a lot of water in the boat (don't ask), as well as after drilling more and more ballast ports to allow water in --- I had always wanted to add a second bilge pump to my boat as a safety net. Mine did not come with one. I did this project last summer. And if you're going to do it... might as well go big. I opened up a lot of space in the rear of the bilge when I redid the exhaust. So I bought a larger pump than hopefully I'll ever need, a Johnson 2200. My stock bilge pump is a 750 gph. I moved that one forward a little bit in the bilge, which made it lower and serves as the primary bilge pump, and then secured the big daddy Johnson 2200 in the rear corner... about the only place I could fit it. I mounted the floating switch so it will be the backup/OMG/secondary pump. The new pump comes with a 1 1/2 and 2" output ports. I used the 1 1/2" and bought matching PVC hose (same as our common ballast hose, but a little bigger). And then picked up a larger stainless port and brought it out the side of the boat... so it just sits in line with the ballast ports. Not a big project... but a little extra piece of mind / safety net. I filled up the bilge with water to test it and then powered the new pump.... it was cool to see how much volume could shoot out the side. Enlarged and beveled out the hole for the stainless thru-port with a Dremel. This is what the Johnson 2200 pump looks like. It's pretty large.
  7. 3 points
    The Malibu VRide doesn't come optioned with a front ballast hard tank like the wakesetters. It is a budget version of the wakesetter and its platform is the previous hull design (08 vlx hull on the 2011 vride.) Instead of bow mls, it has a U shaped seat base and storage under the playpin seating. The center tank is also an option which my boat didn't have, however the previous owner plumbed aerator pumps for a bag in place of mid tank. They also plumbed for rear bags with dedicated pumps for each locker. I added a 580 lbs center bag and 750 bags in rear to previously installed system using quick connects. It does have 200 lbs rear hard tanks on each side. All plumbed bags and tanks are controlled by toggles for fill and drain. I also ran a 750 bow sac on top of seat and a 370 sac under coffin seat port side which I had to fill with manual pumps over the side of the boat. In an effort to gain back my bow seating and integrate all ballast bags into automated system, I began the following mod. First, I removed the seat base which was very simple. 8 screws. The hardest part was finding the screws in the carpet. I then cut a modified seat base out of 3/4 plywood (this will be temporary until I can redo with hdpe) I removed the brackets from the bottom of cushions so they would sit flush on base. The new base is also supported with a 4x4 and a plastic post base which was installed to set in the gap of the u shaped bow bag. I used the cushion brackets I had removed by attaching to the modified base to hold it in place. This was done to avoid wear from moving, sliding and possibly damaging the vinyl. I sanded and smoothed the edges of the wood and then used a rhino liner type product to seal and protect the wood. I hope it will last through this season until I upgrade the material to hdpe next winter. I placed the bow bag under bow seating and it fit very well, much better than with the OEM seat base. It will allow more weight in bag. I would guess about 350 to 400 lbs before the seat base begins rising. I then began the ballast install. I had two tee handle drain plugs. One in vdrive area and the other at midship. I used the one near the vdrive and installed a ball valve to a Y fitting and 1 inch hose split to two jabsco reversible pumps I located under port coffin seat. Reversible pumps will fill and drain from through hull. I then ran hose from one pump under coffin seating into battery compartment, over wall and into bow under seats to bow bag and attached with quick attach fitting. The other pump feeds the coffin bag. I have since used another Y fitting to split the hose in the battery compartment and run another piece to the bow bag. I installed another quick coupler on the other side of the U shaped bow bag for better fill and drain. I wired the pumps to the included rocker switches. I wired the power to the circuit breaker panel. I had a few open breakers that I swapped out with 30 amp breakers. I grounded under the helm on the ground bar. I cut holes and mounted rockers under drivers arm rest next to where I plan on mounting my GSA controller. This location was easiest to get wire to and also is protected from passengers accidentally engaging pumps. I chose not to vent the bags since neither bag will fill completely before seats begin raising and the reversible pumps suck them flat with no air left inside. I also added 200 lbs of lead to bow and another 300 to use as needed in the cabin. The bow bag can also be placed on top of seats or below with ease. The lead and bag placement gives me a few different options depending on crew size.
  8. 3 points
    Just got the interior put back together on my buddy TJ’s 2001 SAN. This has been a project I’ve been doing for him since I have the boat stored in my building for the winter. The upholstery work has been done by a small local seamstress that I’ve used for all my projects. She does great work at a fair price as long as you’re willing to give her plenty of time! This is what we started with First pieces I took to get done and she accidentally flip flopped the colors This looks a lot better New patch on top, original patch on bottom Got heating elements for the captains chair and passenger seat Had her add some foam to these front pieces to correct the loose fitting issue Finished product all put together. Turned out great!
  9. 2 points
    I wanted to move the sub from inside the main storage compartment to i the main part of the boat because I thought the bass was too muffled. My criteria was: no cutting holes look good sound good ( used a Skar DDx 1200watt rms- non marine but the sub fit the specs what I was looking for and I was hoping that this single 10” would sound more like 2 subs) The box was covered in vinyl similar to the interior and I Allen some red LED just for the added extra something. I had to do stack fabrication (YouTube car audio fabrication) to get the box to fit just perfect. I realize there are some drawback to this box. Mostly the sub is non marine rated and it is facing up and could get splashed. The grill is easily roved Incase water needs to be wiped away. I’ve been out a couple times this year and so far it seems to be really well placed and out of the way.
  10. 2 points
    Pretty simple project but hopefully it's worth the pictures for the next person. I needed to pull my driveshaft to install a new shaft seal system (after I had to remove the strut and prop anyway after hitting something in the water). Since I had to pull the rudder to remove the driveshaft, and my boat is 11 years old, I decided to rebuild the rudder box housing while I was at it. Very easy project but I did hit a few snags. This is a 2007 Malibu LSV. Standard rudder from Marine Hardware. (Most Malibus have M.H. or one other brand, depending on where the boat was made. I believe M.H. was for the west coast builds. Either way, the brand should be stamped on the rudder box. Once you have that, you can order the rebuild kit. The rebuild kit for the Marine Hardware rudder was about $50 bucks. 1) First priority was to remove the steering arm inside the boat. This was fairly straight forward, but it has a bolt that locks the rudder into the housing via a cutaway in the shaft. Remove the steering cable without forcing or bending it, the remove the bolt to the arm. Simple, however make sure someone is there to catch the rudder or put something below it. Also, do not lose the keyway. 2) Not so simple is that the rudder will not clear many trailers to the point you can remove it. So you need to either reload the boat on the trailer so it sits back behind it (if you live near a boat ramp), or you need to lift the boat. I chose to lift the boat off the trailer on one side. Just used a floor jack, elevated on railroad ties, and used another portion to spread the load between the jack and the hull. Lifted one side of this big boat up no problem and I was able to drop the rudder all the way out. A little ghetto, but worked fine. 3) Next was to remove the zerk fittings from the housing, so that it could drop down and clear the hole through to the bottom. Mine had two zerk fittings. Also removed the 4 bolts holding the housing together, which sandwiches the housing with a top plate. Next you can carefully remove the housing from the bottom of the boat. Hopefully it just has silicone and not a strong adhesive. 4) Once the housing was out, I used a razor blade and wire brush to clean the outside of the housing. This preps it to take new sealant when it goes back in. 5) This housing consisted of a plastic wear ring on top, then a snap ring above the oil/grease seal, and then two O rings. I was able to remove the top wear ring with a screwdriver, but the snap ring was rusted out and both holes broke off with my snap ring tool.... so it required some hacking to get the ring out. Then pulled the oil seal out, then the snap rings. 6) Cleaned the inside of the housing to remove old grease and dirt. 7) Reinstalled all the components of the new kit. Put the O rings in first, then the oil/grease seal which goes lip side down. Used marine grease of course on the inside, and also to pack the seal first so the spring ring on the opposite side of the seal doesn't come out as you insert it. Mine took a little pushing, so I used the old wear ring first to push it down, and then a large socket and rubber mallet to push it further down so that I could insert the new snap ring. Then you can insert the top plastic wear ring / cap. 8 ) Reinstall the rudder box into the boat, using a non permanent sealant (life caulk, life seal, 4200, etc), reversing original steps. 9) Clean the rudder shaft and check for burs or excessive wear marks. Can lightly smooth with emery cloth if needed. Can also put a touch or marine grease around it, then reinsert into housing. 10) You will need to have somebody push up on the rudder so that it goes all the way up, and then re insert the catch bolt. 11) Reinsert the zero fittings, and give them a few pumps of marine grease each. Be careful not to overgrease them, or your rudder will be harder to turn. old parts -- notice broken ring and hammered oil seal. Cleaned up and ready to install kit Hope this helps. I'm not an expert so maybe somebody has other advice. But hopefully at least the pictures give you an idea what you are replacing. Ours works awesome now and was obviously overdue. Total time was about an hour and a half, mostly due to having to lift the boat safely. If you every have to pull the rudder, I highly recommend replacing the seals.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    2006 Malibu 247 lsv Wetsounds, Heatercraft, Wakemakers reversible ballast, removed tribal graphics whould love a dripless setup!! Also add a FAE
  13. 2 points
    Finally upgraded the stock Roswell tower speakers to wet sound rev8 speakers and Sinister SD2 amp (400w rms). The head unit is a Rockford Fosgate PMX-5 with a PMX-1R remote on the driver side. It has two zones so the towers are on a separate zone (locked to zone 1 source) with independent volume control. Inside the boat are six 6.5" Rockford Fosgates with a 10" Kicker sub driven from a Kicker KX M800.5 amp. Install: Had to drill some holes in the tower for the new placement but all went well. Debated placement of the speakers but decided to stay with the classic placement. Drilled 3/4" holes (matching factory) to give me room to adjust the angle a bit. I'm hoping since they are bigger I will be more aware that they are there and hit my head less. Installing the amp was a little more tricky in the confined space. I added a stinger 150amp circuit breaker, so if it pops it’s just a flip to back in action. I plan to build a box around the sub to help with the punch, like Wylie_Tunes shows in his post. I will also be adding another bow cushion to cover the walkway to hide the bonus sumo bag I have up front and make it easy to walk up front. I’ll take more pictures of the rest of the stereo system but here’s a tease.
  14. 2 points
    2008 Mastercraft X2, would love to upgrade to the Glide drip less system. Also upgrading some stereo stuff and new prop this season.
  15. 2 points
    I've got a list of things to upgrade / fix this year including my rudder port/rudder. 1993 Ski Centurion.
  16. 2 points
    2013 Axis A22 We want to install Homemade Surf Gates or the Go Surf Assist System this year. Still researching everything to make sure the holes we put in our boat are worth it! LOL
  17. 2 points
    With surfing becoming the main priority on my boat I've slowly started updating over this spring. Numerous projects going on at once but the exhaust was a quick and easy after looking at a few similar projects here on the forum. I took a slightly different path from the last few I've seen for a muffler bypass. Instead of using straight rubber wet exhaust hose or even abs pipe I chose to buy 2 pre bent 3.5 mandrel 90° exhaust fittings from summit racing. I believe the part number was SUM-622130. I trimmed roughly 6 and 3/4's of an inch off of each side to make them slip into the existing rubber boots that went to the original silent rider exhaust. I felt like it gave a more complete finish to the engine compartment, rather than going with any of the alternatives. Once I finish the rest of the updates inside the boat I will be building my own fae from the same stainless exhaust piping.
  18. 2 points
    I know this thread is old, but being someone with experience in automotive racing and boating, I started researching the fuel pump in Indmar’s s495117 conversion kit and found some with the pierburg brand pump and some kits without. They all had the same part number, but the kit that doesn’t use the pierburg brand pump uses the Walbro gsl392 pump. The number is on the pump Indmar sales for over $300, but walbro sales it for $98. Fuel pump pt# gsl392, fitting pt# 128-3041, Order the copper sealing washers with the fitting, $ .99 each. Just have to check the box. Your not supposed to run anything smaller than a 30 micron filter pre pump, but no matter where I look all I can find for our 1/2” fuel lines is 10 micron or 149 micron. I have used the 10 micron wix 33299, or Napa 3299 for 5 years now with no issues. This is my first post and I don’t know if links are allowed, so if it gets deleted I understand. But here is the link to the manufacturers online store for the fuel pump. https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl392-inline-fuel-255lph-pump.html
  19. 2 points
    Just a wild guess but most MBs I've seen from this vintage got the the PSS carbon faced seal from PYI Inc. Have seen a few where people think they are toast and they just need compressed. The set screws slides up the shaft and it starts leaking. If you ever need to service it I've got some tips. I dont need a Glide seal, so good luck to all!!
  20. 2 points
    07 247 lsv a surf system with out suction cups, interior and hopefully glide seal and stereo upgrades are the goals for the coming off season.
  21. 2 points
    2005 Moomba Mobius LSV New swivel racks!
  22. 2 points
    1998 Malibu VLX Don't have much for summer projects except enjoying time behind the boat.
  23. 2 points
    1988 Supra Sunsport. not looking to do much else this summer other than surf! i do get annoyed every spring at having to adjust my shaft packing though, so the Glide system would be an awesome addition.
  24. 2 points
    I'm IN I could use one for sure! 2001 Tige 23V being rebuilt from the ground up
  25. 2 points
    @scottmillertime 1996 Malibu sunsetter vlx complete restoration! First post!! Really Really Really wish this this give away was last month lol! I am currently installing new “Glide”strut bearings in my shaft strut while rebuilding my motor. Have seen great reviews and wanted to give them a shot! Would love to use a drip less shaft seal on this old girl but I’m building this boat on a budget and funds had to be spent elsewhere. Would love to do a how to post with dripless install. (Shout out to The Prop Shop for all the helpful info on strut bearings and sweet koozie! -June 2019 Completed tasks: bilge paint, prop removal (with diy prop puller), prop shaft removal prop, prop strut bearings removal and installation, prop rebuild. Sorry for the long post but can’t wait to share this sunsetters journey with the group. The project! New Glide bearings. Was a fight used sawzal and drift pin method. $10 home made prop puller. ( don’t laugh it worked great) Used 2 $5 dollar c clamps New glide bearings installed using freezer and homemade tool. Painted bilge before and after. An old salty dog said to just use this over expensive bilge paint. Repacked shaft seal with GTU graphite packing! It’s what was in the budget 😢
  26. 2 points
    1987 Malibu Sunsetter I'd love to do a floor project but need to build a garage to do it first....hopefully break ground on the garage project this summer. I could do a dripless project in the barn though before the garage.
  27. 2 points
    2007 MC X2 - I'll be adding custom EVA flooring next month.
  28. 2 points
    2006 Malibu Wakesetter 23LSV Still planning to do some additional powder coating on the Wakesetter emblems. I would also like to redo the flooring. And a dripless shaft seal, of course.
  29. 2 points
    Hey all - my apologies - i just logged back in for the first time since the fall and see i missed a lot of messages! I'll start out by saying, I have since replaced my original arduino system with a new bluetooth BLE enabled one - which is much simpler to build - and based on a single robotics board - and a single GPS module. I plan to upload the code and post schematics for it - i just haven't gotten around to it as i had a big move and a bit of a crazy fall/winter/spring. I did drop the surf band - as i never really used it and it kept eating batteries. The new version lets me adjust settings (and control) via an app on my phone - as well as the hard wired controls. A smart watch app would be trivial as well. I'll upload the new version to a net github location leaving the legacy one in place - and get back to people who messaged me over the next few days! If anything is urgent drop a line and I'll see if i can help get you on the water asap. Sorry no i wont build you one! But the new one is much simpler to build!
  30. 2 points
    Update: Now that we have been able to ride and tweek the GSA wave, i thought I would report our experiences. A bit of weight adjustments were necessary to accommodate for the new system vs. the suckgate. Once dialed we were blown away with wave shape, height, length and push at the back of the wave. My average size riders were riding the pocket about 15 ft back and recovering from the wash approx. 20 ft back on skim boards! The fat guys like me, lol, were on the brakes way back in the curl! I had to adjust my normal stance back a bit on the board to get off the brakes. Wave on port side had that curl and lip I've always been envious of on the goofy side! GSA, Imho, is superior in every way to the suckgate we ran last season. Here is our ballast setup. Bow ballast approx 500 lbs: approx 350 in plumbed bag under seat and 150 lbs crew. Midship approx 500 to 600 lbs in plumbed bag under floor in place of hard tank. Cabin approx 1000 lbs in crew, gear and 300 plumbed bag under coffin seat for slight list to surf side. Rear approx 2600 lbs: 750s, hard tanks, 200 lead placed under bags, simulated wedge weight. Note: We also had another 300 in lead to move around depending on surf side and crew seating to dial in the wave. GSA was dialed to surf setting for port and skim for goofy. Bow rise was noticably less than last season with a suckgate. Most riders preferred this setup for each side. A couple less experienced riders preferred the GSA set to skim on port side for more mellow transition and height, which brought the bow even more. I love being able to make these adjustments at the push of a button!
  31. 2 points
    Digital designs, hand made in good ole Oklahoma City. http://ddaudio.om/products/subwoofers/power-tuned/dd3500/
  32. 2 points
    My 2006 Malibu 23XTI had tiered worn out carpet. Upholstery need work to so we ripped out the complete interior. Removed every stick of carpet from the boat. Prepped floors with a quality Primer and paint. Installed custom fabricated Seadek in Stormy Grey over Bimini Blue with Hexagon pattern. Then installed the interiors with new upholstery by MR J's Upholstery (No referrals as he's my father and he's retired) . End result. Brand new boat that looks fresh, is super comfortable and way easy to clean at the end of the day on the lake.
  33. 2 points
    Since getting my Malibu almost 2 years ago, one thing that has bothered me is that we have such high tech boats that monitor our hard ballast tanks, but no way to monitor the bags. Malibu has since added L-shaped rear hard tanks that will monitor the rear bags, but for people with older boats there is not a good solution that I am aware of. Although I am no where near a level of riding that requires super precise filling of ballast bags, I still found myself lifting the rear cushions to look at the bags when dumping bags from full back to 1/2 or empty. So I decided this winter to head down the path of getting me a rear bag monitoring setup going. I started the research phase looking for a good water pressure sensor that I could use to just drop into the top of the bag. I ended up with a Maretron Submersible Pressure Transducer. The unit is kinda pricey, but has a very low psi range so provides a nice degree of accuracy for the only 2-3ft of water depth I will be measuring. It is also submersible so the idea is to just use a 1" NPT fitting to drop it into a spare top fitting on my Sumo bags. It is part number PTS-0-1.5PSI-01 Here are some of the technical details on the pressure transducer: https://www.maretron.com/support/manuals/Submersible Pressure Transducers Installation Instructions-T 2.1.html I replaced the metal mounting plate with a 1" to 1/2" NPT plastic adapter from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HQ725U?psc=1&pf_rd_p=454aaa48-6bbd-4d89-855c-bfb126bc7fa3&pf_rd_r=KRK1ANDC6JBDSEGN5WSH&pd_rd_wg=SCSSV&pd_rd_i=B008HQ725U&pd_rd_w=gkVHN&pd_rd_r=84b257a3-d744-4e15-876f-5b531e276cd5&ref_=pd_luc_rh_rp_330_01_04_t_img_lh This is what the sensor looks like. I will just drop the sensor with wiring into the top of the bags 1" NPT port. Screw the previously mentioned 1" to 1/2" NPT adapter onto the cable gland that comes with the sensor. Tighten the cable gland on the wire where there is plenty of wire inside the bag for the sensor to stay laying on the bottom of the bag even when full. That is about it for the bag and sensor. These sensors are typical 4-20mA current loop sensors. So I needed a way to measure these sensor outputs. I decided on 1 Arduino controller with 2 current to voltage converters(1 for each rear bag). The voltage output from the converters will be input into the Arduino on two Analog inputs. These signals then can be sent through the analog to digital converter in the Arduino for use. The following picture is from testing of the pressure transducer and the current to voltage converter. I just dropped the sensor into about 6 inches of water in a thermos bottle using this setup and measurements were super sensitive. While I was trying to get the above portions tested out and verify proof of concept, I was trying to decide how I wanted to display this ballast information. My first thought was to go easy and just use a cheap little character LCD. The following was some testing I did that used an adjustable voltage to change the numbers on the LCD. I wasn't super excited about this look compared to everything else in the boat. After some more time passed, I decided to mess around with a true LCD just because it could look MUCH MUCH better. So I purchased a touchscreen LCD to tinker with. This project probably will never require touchscreen functions, but I went ahead and got one because I could envision in the future creating a bow bag controller using this same screen with some tweaks to show rear and and front bag levels and to also fill/drain the front bag using the touchscreen. That is a project for way down the road. For now, I created a basic UI layout that just displays the rear bag levels in 25% increments. I can tweak this after I get it all setup and decide what works best. I am no Adobe Photoshop guru so I kept the screen designs basic. For initial setup, I will probably create a screen that shows raw voltages of my bag sensors. I can use that screen to determine exact voltage levels for empty/full/etc.. I can then setup some ranges in the Arduino code to show the correct percentages on the screen based on the inputs. I am planning on making a box to hold this LCD screen and place it in the little cubby hole to the right of the captains chair in a Malibu. I might come up with something better in the future, but this puts it out of the way. As for the electronics, I purchased a box to mount everything in. I drew most of it up in CAD to test the layout/fitment. I now have most everything on the box mounting plate. I just need to machine holes for the 3 wires to pass through the box. There will be one 2 wire cable that goes to 12V and ground. There will be a 4 wire cable that exits the box and heads to the rear of the boat for rear bag sensor hookups. There will also be a 12 wire cable that exists to the remote mounted LCD. I have to finish up the electronics box and the LCD housing box and it will be ready for initial testing in the boat. I hope to have it all ready to go in the boat when the season starts up around here in late March/early April. I am also using a lot of Deutsch connectors with boots, heat shrinks, etc. so I still got a little more to do to get all that wrapped up as well. I will update this when I get the box all finished up and the LCD housing built. I have had a couple requests to get this posted over here so here it is so far. There are several ways to do this much cheaper than the way I have chosen to do it. The wiring and pressure sensors are definitely on the high end of the spectrum. Feel free to ask any specifics about what I have done so far. I hope to be on the water testing it in about a month...bring on spring! UPDATE I got my LCD box back from the 3d printer at the first of the week. A few tolerances were a little tight for the LCD to fit so I had to do some slight machining on a mill today. I kinda expected that as I just had it printed out of ABS using a cheaper printing option so tolerance is not quite as close as for say a SLA 3d print is. The little brass 4-40 press in threaded inserts worked perfectly. I did also make a mistake on two of my LCD hold down holes. I ended up having to remove 2 of the 4. I should still be able to make it work, I will just have to drill 2 holes and make a different tab for one side of the LCD hold down. If you look at the back image of the LCD, you will notice only 2 brass threaded inserts...I had planned on 4 for hold downs. I plan to try to swing by the boat in storage this weekend and double check it will go in the little covey I want to put it in. It will be close. If it fits, I will cut a wire hole in the box and start trying to wire up the LCD. The white paper you see over the LCD is a piece of clear acrylic cut that will be the 'lense' for the LCD for protection. I will glue that in so it is water tight, then put the LCD behind that. Progress still being made and hope to have it ready to all go in the boat when it comes home for the spring.
  34. 2 points
    This Malibu was in for some significant audio upgrades, but one of the main concerns was the lack luster performance from the factory woofer. The OEM installed Rockford Fosgate Marine 12" woofer, is actually a quality woofer and can sound pretty good! The issue is, with the factory build enclosure. It has 2 main failures. 1, it leaks air like sieve and 2, its too small even if you fix the leaks. Ive seen some so bad, you can see daylight through the seams. You can see below, the owners past attempts to seal the old enclosure. OEM enclosure is about .7 ft3 prior to the woofer going in. New enclosure is 1.1. Does not sound like a big difference, but it actually is. A small change in the air volume impacts the woofer's sound and performance. Think about the thickness and tension of the strings on a stringed instrument. You can tune the woofer but adjusting the internal air volume. So we spec out a new custom enclosure that larger, and of course, air tight. We mate it to the original facade and only end up moving the facade out about an inch. Ends up looking completely original, but the improvement is huge. In this particular build, we had the advantage of freeing up the factory 500W 2 chnl tower amp. So we pulled the original 300W woofer amp and repurposed the 500W to the woofer. So we also gained some wattage performance. Trifecta! This setup started in about 2012 or 2013 and was found on the traditional nosed boats. On the MXZ's, they just front loaded the woofer to the plastic foot well, and run the woofer free-air. Equally poor execution. These boats also benefit from a custom enclosure.
  35. 2 points
    Great write-up. Looks like a well executed install. I really love that launch feature of the GSA. I haven’t been able to try one or test it but your description is money for wake boarding.
  36. 2 points
    This is how I free a very stubborn coupler. Hopefully it helps someone trying to convert to dripless packing. This is on an older Malibu, but principle is the same on most Vdrive and DDs. Some of your older Centurys use different methods to key/index the shaft, so be sure to uncouple shaft and figure out how the shaft is joined to coupler. In this case you have to remove the nut(1 1/16" socket on 1" shafts)inside the coupler and loosen the set screws, there are two hex key/allen heads in the coupler. Next I use some long 3/8" bolts with no shoulders and a socket to preload the living crap out of the shaft. We have a sweet slide hammer at the shop that was there before I started. I have searched the web for one just like it to no avail, but this is the closest I can find(If anyone wants to machine a better one I have some ideas) https://www.generalpropeller.com/shaft-puller Thread the puller on and slide hammer away. In this case this STILL wouldnt free the coupler. SO, heat to the nibral/brass coupler while your buddy/wife/kiddo slowly turns the shaft and occasionally puts some work into the slide hammer and bingo, shaft pops right out of coupler. Most are a lot easier but if youve got one that fights you I hope this helps.
  37. 2 points
    The electric brakes work great. I do not need or notice them much now because I have 3/4 ton diesel. On the rare occasion I do pull with a half ton that has a hook up for trailer brakes they come in handy! I fought wiring issues for a while because I ran out of wire on the install at the very end and had to use some cheap wire to fill in, but eventually that all gave way within a couple years and I replaced with good wire.
  38. 2 points
    Looks great. Love when the older boats look cherry. Pride of ownership. I’m a fan
  39. 1 point
    Congrats @Shadetreefab and thanks to @TeamGlide for supporting the DIY crowd with the giveaway and extended discount offer. Love that you include the plumbing kit to T into the raw water supply. Top notch stuff!!
  40. 1 point
    Thanks to everyone for entering! Anyone who is still interested in a Glide system: We will offer 20% off to Wake Garage members through the end of July. Give me a call and we can hook you up. We want everyone staying dry with Glide this Summer. Cheers! - Tim Jr. Glide Bearings 616-868-9730 tcreighton@glidebearings.com
  41. 1 point
    Purchased the industrial double-sided emblem adhesive (foam) from Amazon for $9/3 sheets. So far the emblems have held up perfectly. I printed in PLA at only 20% infill (like a honeycomb on the inside). I taped a metal straight-edge to the hull in order to maintain a straight line....and used a drill bit as a spacer between letters. Technology is a great thing!
  42. 1 point
    Looks good, great use of space. Do you have a photo from a bit further out so we can see how it all fits in with the interior?
  43. 1 point
    2003 Malibu Wakesetter VLX. I recently had my Aerial tower powder coated texture black and I had a custom fiberglass swim-deck built with a Gator Step pad to replace the old teal deck. In the future I’d like to add surf gates ,Gator Step flooring in the boat and hopefully a Glide Dripless Shaft Seal system.
  44. 1 point
    New bimini cover with heat-pressed logo...next is the bimini itself. Used Sunbrella premium material. Project went pretty smooth by using the old material add a pattern. I was not able to salvage the old zipper but for $6 on Amazon, it was a cheap replacement. Had to buy a 1" binder attachment for the binding. I originally purchased a 3/4" binder but it was a bit small and made it difficult to catch the edge of the material consistently. Attachment and all materials were purchased from Sailrite. Like the upholstery, you'll need an industrial sewing machine. I picked up a nice Juki for under $400 and have redone 2 boats now with it.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks for the tip on finding another supplier for the stainless Rugger! Your own projects are inspiring as well. The fae is probley another month out or so. Still have to get all of the interior back together soon... I'll post up the rest of the projects once its finally finished
  46. 1 point
    Yes, it worked great, alarm even sounds when i'm under 3ft going thru the channel. Although the temps come from under the dash for the air temp and the sea temp comes thru the paddle wheel on my VLX. So i had to replace the paddle wheel to fix the sea temp, although i feel like one could splice in an air temp gauge, (same as air temp on some of the older boats) into the wires on the paddle wheel.
  47. 1 point
    Here is my rebuild from several years ago on my trailer. This trailer was in pretty bad shape when I bought the boat, but cleaned up real nice! One bunk was broke when I bought the boat and one of the pieces on the inner fender was loose as well. The trailer was obviously red to begin with and matched the boat, so I’m not sure why someone had rattle canned it black? This is the old surge brake set up that I tore out. New electric brakes. I did this because, at the time, I had a 1/2 ton pick up and really felt like my surge brakes were not working well enough. These work great, but I foresee issues down the road possibly with water and getting rusty. Who knows, that seems to be a problem with all boat trailers though... My contraption for bending the new bunks Freshly sand blasted In the paint booth. Sure is convenient having friends in the right trades! Took all the guts out of the surge coupler. Used like that for a couple years and then ended up putting a bull dog coupler on once this old surge set up wore out. Getting ready to hit it with some love! New LED lights all around. Boiling water to soften up the new bunks. And a perfect match! We actually matched this color with a flashlight during a thunderstorm while on the boat lift. I’d say we got pretty lucky!
  48. 1 point
    This is genius. Now to put something similar to all the drain points!! The new I/Os at the boat show have a 1 lever pull and drain setup. I saw it on a Volvo Penta but salesman says it is industry wide. You can use your boat anytime of the year with a setup like that. This fancy valve will make things much easier though. I already have mine in order just hours after I read this. Thanks for sharing!!
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
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