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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I did a lot of research over the last year and finally pulled the trigger. I purchased the Go Surf Assist system from Wakemakers and had my local dealer install on my 2011 Malibu VRide21 (05 - 08 VLX hull.) It was the installers first GSA install so I had Ryan from GSA guide him through my hull specific details and general installation. Two issues arose with install of the tabs on my hull. 1. Both Tab hinges needed to be modified around swim platform bump out on hull to ensure hinge was above bottom of hull. 2. Tab had to be installed 2" in from side of hull because of swim platform and actuator clearance. 4" is the recommended measurement but GSA gives a 2" tolerance in either direction. Ryan also suggested that the tab angle at max deployment be set at 8 to 10 degrees for malibu hulls of this era. This max angle will be the skim style setting on the controller. My install resulted in 8* max deployment (skim style) and almost 0* (level with hull) minimum deployment for surf style wave. I thought this was backwards, but confirmed it with Ryan and he said this install should be ideal. There are also 3 angle settings on the controller between surf and skim settings for adjusting the wave. It is also important for the tabs to retract as close the the swim platform brackets as possible when stowed to avoid potential wash in the wave. I can just fit my pinky in between platform and tab for reference. The controller is nice and easy to use. It has some nice features. One feature is lift mode, which dramatically improved my 0-22 mph time by approx 6 seconds with full ballast for wakeboarding! I'm at 3000 ft with 350 motor and 2419 acme prop.I was really impressed and the tabs retract automatically at 15 or 16 mph once you are on plane.It also will connect to Apple devices via bluetooth and the E61 surf app to allow remote control from Apple device. The newer controller also sets the tabs by default to your last setting on the dial. So if you have the dial set to surf, when you hit surf left, the tab will deploy to the 0* angle on my setup. The older controllers always defaulted to max deployment regardless of last setting and adjustments needed to be made each time. I have water tested the system and am really impressed with wave and system performance. I have not surfed it yet because of cold water temp so all observations are from inside the boat. Ballast setup during testing: Bow: 750 plumbed bow bag on seat, 200 lead (no front tank on vride) Midship: 580 bag plumbed in place of hard tank, 370 plumbed bag under coffin seat port side, 600 lbs in peeps, 3/4 full fuel tank, 300 lead moved around as needed. Rear: 400 hard tanks, 1500 plumbed bags, floating wedge. GSA tabs. Update: I forgot to mention a few other details. Transfers were clocked just under 3 seconds, Tabs provided some lift and lowered the bow significantly, especially when in skim setting. Nose will rise slightly in surf setting vs skim, but both had less bow rise than same weight setup with a suckgate. My shorter drivers will really appreciate this result.
  2. 3 points
    The Malibu VRide doesn't come optioned with a front ballast hard tank like the wakesetters. It is a budget version of the wakesetter and its platform is the previous hull design (08 vlx hull on the 2011 vride.) Instead of bow mls, it has a U shaped seat base and storage under the playpin seating. The center tank is also an option which my boat didn't have, however the previous owner plumbed aerator pumps for a bag in place of mid tank. They also plumbed for rear bags with dedicated pumps for each locker. I added a 580 lbs center bag and 750 bags in rear to previously installed system using quick connects. It does have 200 lbs rear hard tanks on each side. All plumbed bags and tanks are controlled by toggles for fill and drain. I also ran a 750 bow sac on top of seat and a 370 sac under coffin seat port side which I had to fill with manual pumps over the side of the boat. In an effort to gain back my bow seating and integrate all ballast bags into automated system, I began the following mod. First, I removed the seat base which was very simple. 8 screws. The hardest part was finding the screws in the carpet. I then cut a modified seat base out of 3/4 plywood (this will be temporary until I can redo with hdpe) I removed the brackets from the bottom of cushions so they would sit flush on base. The new base is also supported with a 4x4 and a plastic post base which was installed to set in the gap of the u shaped bow bag. I used the cushion brackets I had removed by attaching to the modified base to hold it in place. This was done to avoid wear from moving, sliding and possibly damaging the vinyl. I sanded and smoothed the edges of the wood and then used a rhino liner type product to seal and protect the wood. I hope it will last through this season until I upgrade the material to hdpe next winter. I placed the bow bag under bow seating and it fit very well, much better than with the OEM seat base. It will allow more weight in bag. I would guess about 350 to 400 lbs before the seat base begins rising. I then began the ballast install. I had two tee handle drain plugs. One in vdrive area and the other at midship. I used the one near the vdrive and installed a ball valve to a Y fitting and 1 inch hose split to two jabsco reversible pumps I located under port coffin seat. Reversible pumps will fill and drain from through hull. I then ran hose from one pump under coffin seating into battery compartment, over wall and into bow under seats to bow bag and attached with quick attach fitting. The other pump feeds the coffin bag. I have since used another Y fitting to split the hose in the battery compartment and run another piece to the bow bag. I installed another quick coupler on the other side of the U shaped bow bag for better fill and drain. I wired the pumps to the included rocker switches. I wired the power to the circuit breaker panel. I had a few open breakers that I swapped out with 30 amp breakers. I grounded under the helm on the ground bar. I cut holes and mounted rockers under drivers arm rest next to where I plan on mounting my GSA controller. This location was easiest to get wire to and also is protected from passengers accidentally engaging pumps. I chose not to vent the bags since neither bag will fill completely before seats begin raising and the reversible pumps suck them flat with no air left inside. I also added 200 lbs of lead to bow and another 300 to use as needed in the cabin. The bow bag can also be placed on top of seats or below with ease. The lead and bag placement gives me a few different options depending on crew size.
  3. 3 points
    Just got the interior put back together on my buddy TJ’s 2001 SAN. This has been a project I’ve been doing for him since I have the boat stored in my building for the winter. The upholstery work has been done by a small local seamstress that I’ve used for all my projects. She does great work at a fair price as long as you’re willing to give her plenty of time! This is what we started with First pieces I took to get done and she accidentally flip flopped the colors This looks a lot better New patch on top, original patch on bottom Got heating elements for the captains chair and passenger seat Had her add some foam to these front pieces to correct the loose fitting issue Finished product all put together. Turned out great!
  4. 2 points
    Digital designs, hand made in good ole Oklahoma City. http://ddaudio.om/products/subwoofers/power-tuned/dd3500/
  5. 2 points
    Since getting my Malibu almost 2 years ago, one thing that has bothered me is that we have such high tech boats that monitor our hard ballast tanks, but no way to monitor the bags. Malibu has since added L-shaped rear hard tanks that will monitor the rear bags, but for people with older boats there is not a good solution that I am aware of. Although I am no where near a level of riding that requires super precise filling of ballast bags, I still found myself lifting the rear cushions to look at the bags when dumping bags from full back to 1/2 or empty. So I decided this winter to head down the path of getting me a rear bag monitoring setup going. I started the research phase looking for a good water pressure sensor that I could use to just drop into the top of the bag. I ended up with a Maretron Submersible Pressure Transducer. The unit is kinda pricey, but has a very low psi range so provides a nice degree of accuracy for the only 2-3ft of water depth I will be measuring. It is also submersible so the idea is to just use a 1" NPT fitting to drop it into a spare top fitting on my Sumo bags. It is part number PTS-0-1.5PSI-01 Here are some of the technical details on the pressure transducer: https://www.maretron.com/support/manuals/Submersible Pressure Transducers Installation Instructions-T 2.1.html I replaced the metal mounting plate with a 1" to 1/2" NPT plastic adapter from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HQ725U?psc=1&pf_rd_p=454aaa48-6bbd-4d89-855c-bfb126bc7fa3&pf_rd_r=KRK1ANDC6JBDSEGN5WSH&pd_rd_wg=SCSSV&pd_rd_i=B008HQ725U&pd_rd_w=gkVHN&pd_rd_r=84b257a3-d744-4e15-876f-5b531e276cd5&ref_=pd_luc_rh_rp_330_01_04_t_img_lh This is what the sensor looks like. I will just drop the sensor with wiring into the top of the bags 1" NPT port. Screw the previously mentioned 1" to 1/2" NPT adapter onto the cable gland that comes with the sensor. Tighten the cable gland on the wire where there is plenty of wire inside the bag for the sensor to stay laying on the bottom of the bag even when full. That is about it for the bag and sensor. These sensors are typical 4-20mA current loop sensors. So I needed a way to measure these sensor outputs. I decided on 1 Arduino controller with 2 current to voltage converters(1 for each rear bag). The voltage output from the converters will be input into the Arduino on two Analog inputs. These signals then can be sent through the analog to digital converter in the Arduino for use. The following picture is from testing of the pressure transducer and the current to voltage converter. I just dropped the sensor into about 6 inches of water in a thermos bottle using this setup and measurements were super sensitive. While I was trying to get the above portions tested out and verify proof of concept, I was trying to decide how I wanted to display this ballast information. My first thought was to go easy and just use a cheap little character LCD. The following was some testing I did that used an adjustable voltage to change the numbers on the LCD. I wasn't super excited about this look compared to everything else in the boat. After some more time passed, I decided to mess around with a true LCD just because it could look MUCH MUCH better. So I purchased a touchscreen LCD to tinker with. This project probably will never require touchscreen functions, but I went ahead and got one because I could envision in the future creating a bow bag controller using this same screen with some tweaks to show rear and and front bag levels and to also fill/drain the front bag using the touchscreen. That is a project for way down the road. For now, I created a basic UI layout that just displays the rear bag levels in 25% increments. I can tweak this after I get it all setup and decide what works best. I am no Adobe Photoshop guru so I kept the screen designs basic. For initial setup, I will probably create a screen that shows raw voltages of my bag sensors. I can use that screen to determine exact voltage levels for empty/full/etc.. I can then setup some ranges in the Arduino code to show the correct percentages on the screen based on the inputs. I am planning on making a box to hold this LCD screen and place it in the little cubby hole to the right of the captains chair in a Malibu. I might come up with something better in the future, but this puts it out of the way. As for the electronics, I purchased a box to mount everything in. I drew most of it up in CAD to test the layout/fitment. I now have most everything on the box mounting plate. I just need to machine holes for the 3 wires to pass through the box. There will be one 2 wire cable that goes to 12V and ground. There will be a 4 wire cable that exits the box and heads to the rear of the boat for rear bag sensor hookups. There will also be a 12 wire cable that exists to the remote mounted LCD. I have to finish up the electronics box and the LCD housing box and it will be ready for initial testing in the boat. I hope to have it all ready to go in the boat when the season starts up around here in late March/early April. I am also using a lot of Deutsch connectors with boots, heat shrinks, etc. so I still got a little more to do to get all that wrapped up as well. I will update this when I get the box all finished up and the LCD housing built. I have had a couple requests to get this posted over here so here it is so far. There are several ways to do this much cheaper than the way I have chosen to do it. The wiring and pressure sensors are definitely on the high end of the spectrum. Feel free to ask any specifics about what I have done so far. I hope to be on the water testing it in about a month...bring on spring! UPDATE I got my LCD box back from the 3d printer at the first of the week. A few tolerances were a little tight for the LCD to fit so I had to do some slight machining on a mill today. I kinda expected that as I just had it printed out of ABS using a cheaper printing option so tolerance is not quite as close as for say a SLA 3d print is. The little brass 4-40 press in threaded inserts worked perfectly. I did also make a mistake on two of my LCD hold down holes. I ended up having to remove 2 of the 4. I should still be able to make it work, I will just have to drill 2 holes and make a different tab for one side of the LCD hold down. If you look at the back image of the LCD, you will notice only 2 brass threaded inserts...I had planned on 4 for hold downs. I plan to try to swing by the boat in storage this weekend and double check it will go in the little covey I want to put it in. It will be close. If it fits, I will cut a wire hole in the box and start trying to wire up the LCD. The white paper you see over the LCD is a piece of clear acrylic cut that will be the 'lense' for the LCD for protection. I will glue that in so it is water tight, then put the LCD behind that. Progress still being made and hope to have it ready to all go in the boat when it comes home for the spring.
  6. 2 points
    This Malibu was in for some significant audio upgrades, but one of the main concerns was the lack luster performance from the factory woofer. The OEM installed Rockford Fosgate Marine 12" woofer, is actually a quality woofer and can sound pretty good! The issue is, with the factory build enclosure. It has 2 main failures. 1, it leaks air like sieve and 2, its too small even if you fix the leaks. Ive seen some so bad, you can see daylight through the seams. You can see below, the owners past attempts to seal the old enclosure. OEM enclosure is about .7 ft3 prior to the woofer going in. New enclosure is 1.1. Does not sound like a big difference, but it actually is. A small change in the air volume impacts the woofer's sound and performance. Think about the thickness and tension of the strings on a stringed instrument. You can tune the woofer but adjusting the internal air volume. So we spec out a new custom enclosure that larger, and of course, air tight. We mate it to the original facade and only end up moving the facade out about an inch. Ends up looking completely original, but the improvement is huge. In this particular build, we had the advantage of freeing up the factory 500W 2 chnl tower amp. So we pulled the original 300W woofer amp and repurposed the 500W to the woofer. So we also gained some wattage performance. Trifecta! This setup started in about 2012 or 2013 and was found on the traditional nosed boats. On the MXZ's, they just front loaded the woofer to the plastic foot well, and run the woofer free-air. Equally poor execution. These boats also benefit from a custom enclosure.
  7. 2 points
    Great write-up. Looks like a well executed install. I really love that launch feature of the GSA. I haven’t been able to try one or test it but your description is money for wake boarding.
  8. 2 points
    This is how I free a very stubborn coupler. Hopefully it helps someone trying to convert to dripless packing. This is on an older Malibu, but principle is the same on most Vdrive and DDs. Some of your older Centurys use different methods to key/index the shaft, so be sure to uncouple shaft and figure out how the shaft is joined to coupler. In this case you have to remove the nut(1 1/16" socket on 1" shafts)inside the coupler and loosen the set screws, there are two hex key/allen heads in the coupler. Next I use some long 3/8" bolts with no shoulders and a socket to preload the living crap out of the shaft. We have a sweet slide hammer at the shop that was there before I started. I have searched the web for one just like it to no avail, but this is the closest I can find(If anyone wants to machine a better one I have some ideas) https://www.generalpropeller.com/shaft-puller Thread the puller on and slide hammer away. In this case this STILL wouldnt free the coupler. SO, heat to the nibral/brass coupler while your buddy/wife/kiddo slowly turns the shaft and occasionally puts some work into the slide hammer and bingo, shaft pops right out of coupler. Most are a lot easier but if youve got one that fights you I hope this helps.
  9. 2 points
    The electric brakes work great. I do not need or notice them much now because I have 3/4 ton diesel. On the rare occasion I do pull with a half ton that has a hook up for trailer brakes they come in handy! I fought wiring issues for a while because I ran out of wire on the install at the very end and had to use some cheap wire to fill in, but eventually that all gave way within a couple years and I replaced with good wire.
  10. 2 points
    Looks great. Love when the older boats look cherry. Pride of ownership. I’m a fan
  11. 1 point
    The following is a low-cost automated controller based on the Arduino, which can be used for many things — including controlling surf devices. Per Arduino's website: "Arduino is an open-source electronics platform based on easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for anyone making interactive projects.” Arduino board are able to read inputs - such as a switch or sensor, and turn it into an output - such as activating a motor. You can tell your board what to do by sending a set of instructions to the microcontroller on the board. If you find this helpful consider making a donation to Wake the World - KC venmo @WTWKC PayPal - Donation Link If you'd like to purchase a pre programmed arduino i have a classified for that HERE So the Arduino beast has been conquered. Parts list and Pin out can be found HERE (or below) Arduino Pin GPS Pin Motor Driver Pin Surf Left Switch Surf Right Switch 0 1 2 TXD 3 RXD 4 L1/white 5 L2black 6 in1 7 in2 8 in3 9 in4 10 11 12 13 5V VCC +5V GND GND B2 B1 Motor Driver Board GND Battery GND out1 Right Lenco - White white out2 Right Lenco - Black black out3 Left Lenco - White green out4 Left Lenco - Black red POWER Battery +12VDC Relay 87 Blue 12vDC from battery 87a yellow Ground 86 white Motor driver board 85 black Ground 30 red To lenco Qty Item Price 1 GPS Antenna $12.95 https://www.adafruit.com/product/960 1 Antenna Pigtail $3.95 https://www.adafruit.com/product/851?gclid=Cj0KCQiA9_LRBRDZARIsAAcLXjchVZoCmPlwgVVZKlCfazsKGEdDCh5eYxGi2ogyp8QxA50sWQlEQeMaAltYEALw_wcB 1 Enclosure $32.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYXVLT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 9VDC Power Supply $11.85 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWCJPC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Arduino $12.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4LP86I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 GPS Module $20.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AW5QYES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Screw Shield $9.98 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SGTP20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Jumper Wires $6.98 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZF1ZSZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Motor Driver $6.98 https://www.amazon.com/Controller-H-Bridge-Stepper-Mega2560-Duemilanove/dp/B01BWLICV4/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525699900&sr=1-9&keywords=arduino+motor+controller 1 Rotary Switch $15.86 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LN4LUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 Lenco Fast Actuators $169.97 https://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?pnumber=LM15129001&mfg=LENCO%20MARINE&desc=4%201/4%20Stroke%20Actuator%2012%20Volt&mfgno=15129-001 1 Relays $24.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQNJKM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MTQNJKM&pd_rd_wg=JofXP&pd_rd_r=P1GZCKAK4HXSHT5T5WQJ&pd_rd_w=h0vct Logic for the NEWLY TESTED transfer capable surf devices can be found HERE Libraries needed - Serial Library - GPS Library - you'll need to add these to your online or offline arduino editor library for the code to work properly. Video of the test with just the switch can be found HERE The gate is set to deploy between 7 and 15 MPH you can edit the logic to change those speeds - the gate is set to deploy for ~2 seconds and retract for ~3 seconds you can change that time in the logic next step will be using some type of pot device to vary the deploy time. Attached are some pictures of the bench test wiring setup - i'll get the final boxed version uploaded sometime in the next week hopefully if my parts show up
  12. 1 point
    @Slurpee That looks great! I'll have to post some pictures of my install too (the pictures in the writeup are from @Y-Naut-Ski's boat; formerly 21VLXSkiier) I unbolted the starboard 12" display mount and ran the CAT5 through the same space as the LVDS cable, then used velcro to hold it to the bottom of the 12" display. If my son's baseball game is rained out (in May!) I'll go get some pictures and post them...
  13. 1 point
    Great Project @mikeo! I totally copied you here on my '16 22 VLX. Finding a place to put it that was relatively accessible, always visible, but out of the way was a bit tricky in this help. If there had been a clever way to route the Cat5e I'd have stuck it right under the large display. It's a great fit. But there's no convenient place to bring the cable out from under the helm nearby. I like this though where it ended up.
  14. 1 point
    I put mine in the observer compartment. It is mounted on the walkway wall and I have a little slack. But if it was on the hull side I would have had to get the extension. I have fought ballast pump / blower noise issues in the past so figured if I can put the signal source that much closer I would. Doesn't help that my sub tends to beat things to death on the drivers side. It used to knock the chip loose on my old perfect pass.
  15. 1 point
    Not a big project --- but after having a few instances over the years where we ended up with a lot of water in the boat (don't ask), as well as after drilling more and more ballast ports to allow water in --- I had always wanted to add a second bilge pump to my boat as a safety net. Mine did not come with one. I did this project last summer. And if you're going to do it... might as well go big. I opened up a lot of space in the rear of the bilge when I redid the exhaust. So I bought a larger pump than hopefully I'll ever need, a Johnson 2200. My stock bilge pump is a 750 gph. I moved that one forward a little bit in the bilge, which made it lower and serves as the primary bilge pump, and then secured the big daddy Johnson 2200 in the rear corner... about the only place I could fit it. I mounted the floating switch so it will be the backup/OMG/secondary pump. The new pump comes with a 1 1/2 and 2" output ports. I used the 1 1/2" and bought matching PVC hose (same as our common ballast hose, but a little bigger). And then picked up a larger stainless port and brought it out the side of the boat... so it just sits in line with the ballast ports. Not a big project... but a little extra piece of mind / safety net. I filled up the bilge with water to test it and then powered the new pump.... it was cool to see how much volume could shoot out the side. Enlarged and beveled out the hole for the stainless thru-port with a Dremel. This is what the Johnson 2200 pump looks like. It's pretty large.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Looks factory and sounds better? Winning!! Nice work.
  18. 1 point
    That is fantastic. Thanks for the info on your setup. Happy and safe boating this summer!!
  19. 1 point
    Nice work and sweet mod. You got 99 problems but bow rise aint one Just playing obviously. I dont know much about surfing Bu's. Seems like with your sac #s and counting lead bags you are pushing 1300lbs of midship/bow weight. I have only really played with an older 23LSV with a wedge and a homemade gate(with 800s plumbed in the rears over tanks). Is this how much bow weight you need?? Just curious because you also mentioned GSA controller. Are you running GSA currently?? Suc gate?? Always like to learn from others how they like to set up their boats, and as mentioned, have minimal Malibu experience.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Hope I can help someone else researching or on the fence. I will not comitt to loving it until I surf it but so far I think it was money well spent.
  22. 1 point
    Agree with above....Great write up. The pics of hose angles are helpful. Timbrr loves his GSA on his Malibu I’m sure I would too and was a toss up between that or custom gates. Thanks for posting.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    My yearly project on my boat this year was pulling the windshield and tower off and refinishing them. The factory paint was faded and chipping so I figured it was time for a makeover. When I bought the boat in 2015 this split was in the tower. The previous owner told me they had the tower folded down outside when it rained and water got inside the pipe and then froze and burst. All I can say is that must have been one heavy rain because that would have taken a lot of water to burst in this spot of the tower. I’m not putting the bimini back on so all of these holes will need to be filled while the split in the tower is getting fixed. This tinting was done before the 2016 season and held up well, but will be redone while I have the frame off for powdercoat. Being able to tint the windshield out of the frame will eliminate anywhere you can see the edge of the tint. This is what the gasket looks like between the windshield and the gel coat. I purchased new gasket material from Nautique Parts. Frame has been sandblasted and powder coated. Windshield has been tinted 5% again. Yes this tint is dark and no you can’t see at night, but damn does it look good. “This sticker is dangerous and inconvenient, but I do love Fig Newtons” 😂 Got a steal on these flight clips so I will have them blasted and powder coated. Will be a nice factory look with the OEM racks back on it. New stainless cup holders and windshield decals. I actually like the look of these boats without the tower. Of course much more feasible for my sport of choice to have the tower, but it’s a very clean and sleek look without. I am amazed at how well this blowout in the tower looks after some welding and grinding. Freshly sand blasted. Decided to do a coat of primer and then sand before powder coat to ensure a silky smooth finish. The 20 year old aluminum was showing its age. Always wanted to run the wires through the tower instead of zip tied around the outside. Definitely recommend for a clean hidden look.
  25. 1 point
    Sorry for the delayed reply. The Sanger will be getting a thread of its own here soon. It’s been on ongoing project and barefoot boat for the last 4 years now. And good catch on the Chevelle! It’s a 70’.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for the post. Anything we can do to limit the bloody knuckles on stubborn hardware is great! Been there! And perfect, as you said, for those who might upgrade to dripless shaft packing.
  27. 1 point
    Yes, it worked great, alarm even sounds when i'm under 3ft going thru the channel. Although the temps come from under the dash for the air temp and the sea temp comes thru the paddle wheel on my VLX. So i had to replace the paddle wheel to fix the sea temp, although i feel like one could splice in an air temp gauge, (same as air temp on some of the older boats) into the wires on the paddle wheel.
  28. 1 point
    Wow. That's a modern look! Love it. Thanks for sharing this
  29. 1 point
    Here is my rebuild from several years ago on my trailer. This trailer was in pretty bad shape when I bought the boat, but cleaned up real nice! One bunk was broke when I bought the boat and one of the pieces on the inner fender was loose as well. The trailer was obviously red to begin with and matched the boat, so I’m not sure why someone had rattle canned it black? This is the old surge brake set up that I tore out. New electric brakes. I did this because, at the time, I had a 1/2 ton pick up and really felt like my surge brakes were not working well enough. These work great, but I foresee issues down the road possibly with water and getting rusty. Who knows, that seems to be a problem with all boat trailers though... My contraption for bending the new bunks Freshly sand blasted In the paint booth. Sure is convenient having friends in the right trades! Took all the guts out of the surge coupler. Used like that for a couple years and then ended up putting a bull dog coupler on once this old surge set up wore out. Getting ready to hit it with some love! New LED lights all around. Boiling water to soften up the new bunks. And a perfect match! We actually matched this color with a flashlight during a thunderstorm while on the boat lift. I’d say we got pretty lucky!
  30. 1 point
    Super cool project. So jealous you have the ability to cnc what you want. That would be a game changer for sure!! Whole lot nicer than hole saws, mini air saws, grinder, drill and index, die grinders etc. Always nice to see a mod that looks factory installed.
  31. 1 point
    Wow good work. So jealous of you guys and your electrical know how! Am going to learn!!
  32. 1 point
    This is genius. Now to put something similar to all the drain points!! The new I/Os at the boat show have a 1 lever pull and drain setup. I saw it on a Volvo Penta but salesman says it is industry wide. You can use your boat anytime of the year with a setup like that. This fancy valve will make things much easier though. I already have mine in order just hours after I read this. Thanks for sharing!!
  33. 1 point
    For the past two years (off and on), I completely restored a 2007 SANTE 220. I wanted a "newer style" wakeboard boat, but without the cost (haha!). Keep in mind I was coming from a 2002 Bayliner 175 that I paid $1000 for, refreshed the motor, and replaced the interior (a raccoon went at the cushions buffet-style). I found this boat on craigslist. It was in need of a serious rehaul. Unfortunately I do not have any photos of the boat as it sat when I picked it up, but from the photos below you can assume it wasn't pretty. The boat was kept about 1 mile from the ocean and was heavily oxidized/rusted. After a long and rainy drive home, I pulled it into my Dad's shop. The rain hides the oxidation in this photo. The prior owner couldn't tell me much about the boat - he bought it from White Lake Marina but never got around to starting the work (I think he bit off more than he could chew). I contacted White Lake Marina, which gave me the service history on the boat (a big help when working on this!). Apparently it was a trade in on a new boat. Disassembly was easy, but had me worried about finishing the build. Everything was significantly rusted - even the motor mounts were rusted through! I made myself very familiar with the sandblaster and sandblasted + painted or powdercoated every part that was to be reused on the motor (I have a powder coat boot and oven in my basement, so that helps!). I learned from the service records that the exhaust manifolds were recently replaced, saving me quite a bit of money! I also bought replacement motor decals. We also examined in the trans and v-drive. other than a few seals and sandblasting/painting, both were in good shape. Keep in mind that the seals from Nautique are expensive, but are not unique. Spend the time measuring and you can buy generic ones and save some money. That goes for most parts on these boats - most are outsourced and can be bought from the manufacturer directly instead of through Correct Craft (saving at least 50%). The next big undertaking was the hull. I stripped it down to bare fiberglass (taking out the monkey fuzz and all) and began wet sanding. I spent over 80 hours prepping the hull - from wet sanding, repairing gel coat dings, and buffing. It took some serious elbow grease to sand/buff out the sun fading from the old decals. I could purchase small containers of the matching white in a bondo-like paste, but had to create the paste myself for the blue (I could buy the matching blue, but had to mix it with silica to make the paste). Repairing the gel coat is much like bondo work (which I have significant experience in). I also removed the underwater gear and cleaned/waxed the bottom of the boat. Using muratic acid was the easiest way to quickly clean the fiberglass. I used one of my dad's shop's lifts to hold the boat up while I waxed the bottom. I ran new wiring for much of the boat, and installed a new steering cable and middle windshield (the original was missing...). Taylor Made was a bit pricey, but easy to work with on purchasing the original windshield. After finalizing the interior sand/buff I began installing the new motor (and refreshed v-drive and trans). Mounting an engine lift to one of my dad's shop's lifts, and deflating the trailer tires, I was able to back to boat under the lift to easily lower the motor into place. This is where the fun began - seeing the boat take shape. But I was a bit nervous on installing the old tower. The bolts on the tower were corroded, and there was a small dent in the side post. Looking around online I found others who installed an FCT5 tower on these boats. Selling the old tower (it was in high demand, actually) I was able to defer about half of the cost of the new tower. I also found a used Z5 bimini for a great price (the 10-hour drive to get it sucked, but it saved me $$$). I paid someone to install the decals on the sides - these things were nearly $1K! I have installed an untold number of decals in my life, but paying someone $40 so I knew I wouldn't mess these up was money well spent. I had a local body shop match the blue for the side of the FCT5 tower and the white for the base, but painted the actual tower a metallic silver to match the new decals. Plus I had never seen a silver tower (most of them are white, black, or the predominant color of the boat) and I wanted this boat to be a bit different. I also had a local decal shop make matching registration numbers. I went back and forth on the interior - whether to use original Nautique skins and install them myself, or have my local upholsterer make/install new skins. I have installed skins before - it's not difficult but it is time consuming. I went with the local upholsterer predominantly for price - she was about $1400 cheaper to make/install the skins than I would have had in just buying original replacement skins! Plus with three young kids, I have a feeling I will be needing interior repair work sooner rather than later. No need to worry about an expensive skin getting ripped up. My dad helped me rebuild all of the ballast water pumps. At approximately $350 each, it was worth a shot. I'm still working out some small bugs in the, but we essentially sandblasted/painted the pumps, swapped out the paddle wheel, and replaced magnetos inside the electric motors (about $4 each from J&N Electric). J&N Electric also helped me on a few other relays/switches and I could not be more impressed with their customer service. I would walk in with some small electrical component and everytime someone would happily help me for 30-45 minutes search through their parts books to find a replacement (often less than $10). Some other fun touches I added - retractable pylon, blue courtesy lights, Roswell horn mono speakers (painted blue to match), blue led cupholders, blue leds in the rear side vents, Seablaze X underwater lights out the back, and Seadek throughout (instead of carpet). Nearly two years later, and weathering a (1) basement remodel (did myself); (2) sale of old house; (3) purchase of new home (with 6 acres and barn for my toys!); and (4) baby #3 - I can now say it's finished and our family is enjoying the lake nearly every weekend. I can literally say every single part on this boat was either replaced or rebuilt (we even disassembled the computer to confirm it was in good shape, rebuilt all of the gauges individually, replaced every single hose in the boat, and used muradic acid with clear coat to keep the tracking fits and prop looking like new brass!) My wife says she almost killed me during the build, but couldn't be happier now with a new boat for about 60% of the cost of a typical 220 (isn't that how it always goes?). To think - she wanted me to build her a house! Big shout out to my Dad, who helped quite a bit and let me use his killer set of tools...
  34. 1 point
    After looking at a number of options and trying to come up with solutions, I decided to dive in and do my own marine decking. Those of us with older boats that have non gel coated floors are at a disadvantage, until now! I started with the painful process of pulling up the old carpet. There is a bunch of write ups out there on this so I will spare you the details but will say getting he first part up is the hardest and acetone works well to strip the old glue. Specific questions, just ask. After stripping the glue, I made a series of templates based on the sheet sizes of the Ultralon to limit seams or hide them in areas already covered. There are seams where the fiberglass overlaps so I decided to use a fairing putty to smooth them out. After the fairing was done and the dust cleared, I laid down to coats of epoxy to eliminate fabric print and to give a clean surface to bond to. Finally it was time to lay the floor! I scuffed the epoxy with 120 grit to knock out any dirt and imperfections that might cause delamination. I double checked the fit and and laid the first piece. I continued on, double checking and fitting pieces... So there it is, a quick update on my flooring project. There are a number of foam flooring suppliers like SeaDek and Gator Step but I chose Ultralon for the durability, higher HDT and the color retention. Anyway, I will explain all of this when I finish the project and complete the post. I am happy to answer any questions before that time as well. I used an epoxy from Axson and added a pigment to it. The product was fairly viscous and self leveled well. The first coat was brushed on with a 4" brush (faster than you might think) and the second was done with a roller. The foam can hide a lot but not like carpet does. Smoothing the transitions keeps the ridges from showing and more importantly, make sure you have full contact for the adhesive. The carpet would not be accurate enough for the flooring so I used a heavy flooring paper and masking tape. Since it was a one off I was not too concerned about it. I was able to keep them intact after cutting my pieces surprisingly. The epoxy and fairing material were both Axson products. The fairing putty could be a basic polyester type material (bondo) as well if you wanted to save money. Almost there! Finished cutting the center floor locker last night. Only thing remaining is the pullout. From a pricing standpoint I am not sure how it compares. I do know that it is much more durable and has a high HDT so it shouldn't be moving around and pulling back like I have heard with SeaDek and the like. If you are interested send me a message and I can help. I am getting closer to finishing this project and came across some things that might help others along the way as it pertains to how you can deal with the center pull out. I am rebuilding my center floor because the aluminum honeycomb that was there has been dented, dinged and has delaminated over time. That said, I know many center floors are just fine which will have most wanting to reuse them. What you will find once you remove the carpet is that the center floor is much smaller than the opening and this is to compensate for the carpet which wrapped around both sides. There are many ways to finish out the edge of the Ultralon but one thing you cannot do is simply allow the material to overhang and fill this gap. If you did there would be nothing underneath it and likely the product would move around, creating an uneven edge. So, even though I am replacing my center floor and it will go all the way to each edge I decided to play around to see if I could come up with some solutions for those that want to do this and also want to retain their existing center floor. First I came up with the idea of cutting a V groove on the backside to allow the material to wrap over the 90° outside corner with a much tighter radius. The picture below is something I did with a razor blade just for sake of trial. This creates a much cleaner and tighter angle compared to wrapping the 6mm material over. This also releases the tension on both surfaces. If this were cut with a clean router edge it would match up to itself quite nicely. It also turns out, in my case, that wrapping both sides filled the gap just about perfectly. The corners of the main deck panels are not 90° and are cut with a slight radius, again, to compensate for the carpet. I opted to cut my new center floor and the main deck at a 90° angle because the two radiuses were not the same. It is amazing what you can hide with carpet. I bring this up because I am not exactly sure how you would accommodate that radius with this method. I suspect it would take some creative cutting and fitting to make it work well. One benefit of overlapping both edges is it will create a nice tight fit and therefore you would not just be relying on the adhesive to maintain fit and finish. This should be helpful considering the amount of cutting a material manipulation that would likely be required for the radiuses. What I will be doing on my floor is putting just a slight bevel on the main deck and the center floor with a 45° router bit. The results are pictured below. Since my center panel will go all the way to the edge it will be completely supported therefore I do not need to roll the material over the edge. This will also allow it to fit nicely into the forward corners which I have cut to 90° angles. Another thing that I found when I was aligning seams together while laying the floor is that this material does and amazing job hiding seams. This got me to thinking about leaving a slight overhang, perhaps 1/32 of an inch, and creating a very tight fit for the center floor. The idea would be to have a seam that is nearly invisible like the picture below. I decided against this because maintaining that perfect edge in an area that will see high traffic could be difficult. I think it would end up looking like you were trying to hide the seam which, of course, would be the idea but if someone can tell that you are trying to hide the same what is the point? Anyway, I hope this gives you some ideas and sparks some conversations when you get ready to do your own. I was able to get the center floor rebuild finished and I put down the Ultralon. it is not done as I still need to fit and align the outer seams and get it screwed down but this was the last obstacle to completing the project. I changed course on the swim step. I was going to do it with the standard brushed grey to match the bow steps and gunwale pads I made but decided to match it up to interior floor. Just a quick update. I am planning to finish this up in the next few days so stay tuned! I made templates using the original step pad and used a 45 degree router bit to cut the edges. Some choose to use a quarter round or similar bit. I have a variable speed router and used a lower speed and made a moderate speed pass. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have. The final issue I faced was the walk through locker door. Having been wrapped with carpet, the panel was undercut and off center. My solution was to use a 1/2" piece of starboard. The factory aluminum honeycomb was 3/8" but with the 6mm Ultralon on the 1/2" starboard, everything lined up perfect! The factory hinge (pictured below) was too short with the 1/8" higher starboard and the decking was getting pinched when the door would open. I bought a 1 1/2" stainless hinge (pictures below and 3/4" when closed) which resolved the issue and lined up flush with the door. Final step was to cut a 1 3/4" hole for the door pull and the final result of this project is below. All I need now is a thorough cleaning and to wrap up a few small details... I have one seam in the main area and it is center between the fuel tank cutout and the forward locker. The center floor was cut from a single piece. That's all I needed! I suggest investing in a nice metal straight edge and cutting directly along one of the black lines (if you use the laminated plank) and cut at an ever so slight angle toward the straight edge. Then when you place the panels together you can use about a 1/16 or 1/32 overlap and the seam virtually disappears without causing a ridge. So there it is! I hope this helps and if you have any questions or need more details, don't hesitate to ask.
  35. 1 point
    As we added more ballast to my Moomba LSV, the stock swim platform was digging into the wave. Following the path of others, I sourced a sheet of HDPE that was roughly 40"x60"x1" to make a new swim/surf platform. I wanted to replicate the look/design of the newer Moomba swim/surf platforms, but I couldn't find a template or sketch online. So, I went to my local Moomba dealer when they were closed. Somewhere in their archives of surveillance video is a video my daughter sitting on a large piece of cardboard, as I trace the outline from underneath a Craz platform. I actually needed to reduce the width of the cardboard template by 2" so I took 1" off the edge of each end to keep it proportionate and then cut the cardboard to size. I drove myself nuts trying to get each edge to be a mirror of the other side and finally called it "close-enuf". After sketching out the template on the HDPE, I used a circular-saw to make the longer/straight cuts and then used a jig-saw to round out the edges and make the cut along the edge that meets the stern. After everything was cut to proportion, i used a quarter-round router bit to smooth the edges over. When I was done cutting/routing, that white HDPE made it snow in August. To mount it to the existing platform brackets, I countersunk a hole and pushed stainless steel carriage bolts from the top down. I also wanted to raise the level of the platform so I used scrap pieces roughly in the size of the bracket as a spacer. I then bolted the platform to the brackets using nylock nuts before i put the padding on. For the padding, i sourced a sheet of HydroTurf with the 3M adhesive on the back (their 40"x60" sheet was the constraining factor on the size, my HDPE sheet was bigger.) Rather than cutting a template for this, I just stuck it on the HDPE and then used a sheetrock knife to trim the edges. Yes, you will cut into the HDPE a little bit but you will never notice it since its at the edge of the HydroTurf. If anything, I wish I had taken more care in hand-cutting the edges since there are slight variations (tho I may be the only one that notices). Here's the finished product. Some people have used 3/4" HDPE and reported a barely noticeable flex. If you're ordering HDPE online, this will save a bit, however the best prices can be found if you source it locally. The shipping is expensive so its worth making several phone calls to "plastics" companies. I found a place that had a piece of 1" in stock and it was a leftover from a job so it was a lot less expensive. This project was done three years ago and everything has held up well. The edge of the platform takes a lot of abuse (far better than fiberglass) and the HydroTurf with the 3M adhesive has stuck to the HDPE without any edges pulling up. I believe the total cost of materials (HDPE, HydroTurf, and stainless nuts/bolts) was ~$500.
  36. 1 point
    Changed the snap in carpet out in my 2013 Malibu 20 VTX to GatorStep flooring. Nice upgrade. Thanks GatorStep for the templating help and the group buy discount. Whole project $600. Pieces came cut, just had to peel and stick. Before and after pics. Templating was the hardest part, just had to work slow and be precise.
  37. 1 point
    Big thanks to everyone at the wake garage, after seeing all the completed surfgate projects I figured it was time to upgrade my system this year. Last year I had made a suck gate that worked pretty good for the first couple times out, but then it decided to quit sucking. It would work for a run or two then fall off. I first taped off the boat and lined up the outside edges. The transom isn’t flat, but there is about 8” tall area that fit the hinges I used the fast Lenco actuators and HDPE I had picked up from a local plastic supplier. It was $20 for two 1’x2’ sheets of 3/4”. If I had to do it again I’d use 1/2”. The 3/4” made a nice substantial gate, but it caused me to make the gap between the hinges and boat wider then I would have liked. I ended up using a router to round over the edge so it wouldn’t get hung up. I don’t have the room for a table saw, so to make a nice straight cut I use a straight edge clamped to the board as a guide. I also used a router on all the edges after I got to the final shape I wanted. To line up the actuator, I used a 90 degree angle to find the centerline of the hinges. I used a scrap piece of HDPE to raise the swim platform ¾”. I’m still a week or two out from automating the gates with an Arduino controller, but for now I’ve set it up with manual switches.
  38. 1 point
    *** This project is getting a lot of views. If you feel it's helpful... please make a post about your project's progress over in Shop Talk! Or if you have projects already completed, please add them here, to our Completed Projects Database. The more sharing, the better for all of us! Plus you may have encountered your own problems or solutions we could all learn from. Thanks! *** I bought a used 2007 Malibu 247 LSV last summer and immediately knew I would want a surf system, based on having one for a few years on a previous boat. I'm a fan of the surf wave and convenience produced by gates... ...or as our MB Sports members here call them, "goose slappers." So I wanted a permanent, automated surf system with matching fiberglass/gel coat. We absolutely love this boat and hope to keep it a long time. We even upgraded the tower to an all black G3 last summer. Here's a picture of the completed project. It was a PIA but worth it in the end. The process and more pictures are below -- all for educational purposes of course. Made several mistakes along the way. Documented these as they occurred in a Shop Talk thread, but all-in-all I'm very happy. Came out looking as well as I could of asked, from a knucklehead like me. Kinda stealth. We made a generalized guideline in Wake Garage's Shop Talk for surf devices here. (Not a definitive guide, so feel free to add to it to make it helpful for the next guy as well. All in the name of education) But for this project, here's my writeup. GOALS: 1) Automated controller system. I played with manual push-pole gates back in 2012, then upgraded to lencos using basic switches, and then upgraded to the Wake Logic controller (first testing prototype) that used GPS speeds to automate the process. Makes a difference. So I chose to use Wake Logic again, especially now that its had a few upgrades. 2) Lenco based actuators. I know Lencos will fail eventually, but I knew they worked well with the controller and they are easily accessible and inexpensive. Thought about hydraulic, but Lencos are easy. 3) Swim platform modification - Had to make a decision to either keep the stock platform, modify the stock platform, or replace the platform with a surf gate shaped platform from a newer boat. I ended up with the later. 4) The gates had to match the boat, in this case black or red gel coat, and give them a little shape. I was already pretty sure I wanted black... I like the stealthy look. 5) Make the entire system look stock. I wanted the system to look seamless, like it rolled off the factory floor this way. CONTROLLER: I used the Wake Logic controller. I will do a write up on the controller, but here were the basics. As you may know Wake Logic is a standalone controller that activates the Lenco actuators to do a number of things, but obviously a surf system is a great application. It includes a GPS antenna, to know when the gates should deploy and retract, has a remote for wake to wake transfers while surfing, safety features and the ability to adjust the timing and settings to fine tune your system. More info is found on the Wake Garage resources page. I do not work for Wake Logic. For the switches to power the controller on, and to select the surf side, I upgraded my stock stereo remote bracket to the version that has 2 open switch ports. For the power switch, I used a simple contura switch that matched the stock OEM dash switches. (left side) For the wake side switch, I settled on a new rotary style switch, also from the Carling contura family (right side). This is a momentary switch, turn it to one side or the other and it snaps back to position, it comes w/ optional LEDs, and fits right into the normal switch bank. So far we like it... just turn the knob to the right for goofy wake, turn it to the left for regular. It's easy for the driver to switch wakes on the fly as well. The Wake Logic also has a remote control for the rider to use as an option from behind the boat. SWIM PLATFORM: I had to decide between using the stock platform, modifying the stock platform, tucking the gates under the platform, or replacing the stock platform with a newer version. I chose the later, and found an opportunity to buy a brand new 2015 247 LSV platform that was shaped for surf gate. To do this I also had to replace the swim platform brackets. The old ones did not fit, I wanted the platform to be raised about 3" from the stock location for surfing w/heavy ballast and to accommodate taller gates, and I wanted a low point for the trailer straps to hook to as an option. New brackets from Malibu would cost over $500, and would not lift the platform. So I built my own out of stainless steel for about $200 or so, including tig welding and powder coating. Here's the old 2007 swim deck. I loved it: And here's the new one designed for 2015 LSV w/ Surf Gate. Looks great, but I do miss the bigger size of the 2007 platform: Here's the new stainless brackets compared to the stock aluminum brackets. Pulled the SS material from the scrap bin, cut everything out with angle grinders, chop saw and drilled the holes, then took to a TIG welder. Once everything bolted up fine, I had them powder coated in satin black. They achieved everything I was after, including the 3" lift. Here you can see the taper as well to match the new platform. Final powder coated brackets. I wrote up the custom brackets and platform swap as it's own project in the project database: GATE CONSTRUCTION: My first step was to pencil out the basic gate shapes. I learned before it doesn't have to be too specific. Personally I think too much is made out of specific angles and adjustments. I went around 13.5"-14" high x 18-19" long with a taper I started with simple card stock cutouts, masking taped to the hull so I could check them in the closed and open positions. Although you can adjust the length the Lenco extends them with the Wake Logic.... its much safer to design it so they open and close all the way every time so you never damage your hull, surf device or platform. I decided to use a Coosa style composite board for the main substrate. This works well, has zero water absorption and cuts like butter with a simple skill saw, table saw or jig saw. I used 3/4" thick board as the primary substrate, and then fiberglassed / gel coated over the top. Once I had a basic size for the gates, I threw on A LOT of masking tape to cover anything that could be scratched. The coosa board will scratch your gel coat as you hold it up to the boat to mark up your hinges, brackets etc. Plus, the masking tape makes it easy to mark your measurements with a sharpie. Marked the brackets in the open and closed position before drilling any holes into the boat. It was easiest for me to have one Lenco all the way extended, and another all the way closed so you can know where it will rest in both positions, and make sure your brackets are in the right place. Once I had the basic shape figured out, I later played with a few tweaks to better match the boat hull and gel coat lines. I like the simplicity of the hull with large sweeping curves in the colors and shape. Didn't want the gates to disrupt that design. I found the first time that it's also a good idea to label your gates as you work on them. Can easily get confusing as to starboard/port, inside/outside, top and bottom, etc. Then I used the following scientific method to formulate curves. I recommend Sierra Nevada (pale ale or summerfest). Plus with many of my projects, there's often one within reach. Next was the reinforce the design with fiberglass. I used heavy roving cloth for the inside of the gates. Those that were following the progress of this project know I ran into a snag using low heat resin the first time which caused bubbles when left out in the sun, so I ended up sanding and re-glassing using vinyl ester resin. This has a much higher heat rating which is important for black gel coat items. Low heat resin can lead to delamination/bubbles. Now for my 03 gates, I recessed the bolts so the face was clean. I liked how that came out so I did the same for these gates. Options were to insert a nut inset into the gate, or inset bolts into the gate, or even use a dress up plate on the outside with fasters. I used bolts, however I think the other would have been easier. I then sanded the gates to the right shape, and used 3Ms premium filler/fairing putty to smooth the curves and edges and fill the large holes prior to fiberglassing over the substrate. Next I glassed the front sides of these. I used a few layers of 3/4 oz matt for the outside because of the curves. Was hard to take pictures because I had gloves, resin and needed to work quickly in the Northern California heat before the resin would flash. EMBLEM Fast forward, prior to gel coating and finishing, I decided to add an emblem. I designed a DXF file in Adobe Illustrator based on the Malibu logo with a curved border. Then grabbed a piece of stainless from one of the metal supply company's scrap bin and took it to my local fabrication shop, same place that did the TIG welding on the brackets. We cut out the emblem with the CNC and then tack welded a few bolts on the back side. It was not as precise as a laser, but came out pretty good for plasma cutter. Shiny stainless looks great. But I wanted something darker. So I chose to run black on black, which means I'd powder coat the emblems in glossy black. - Next step was to cut the inside logo. I used a dremel tool and traced the emblem from the front side, cutting out everything in the middle all the way through. I then cut out the back side about 1/4" deep to create space for the LED lights that I'd add later. GEL COAT - Next step was to then stand the front, smooth it out with filler and prep for gel coat. I sanded it down to about 100-180 grit prior to shooting it with gel. You don't want to sand smoother prior to gel coat because you need to give the gel something to bite into. I've done a little gel coat spraying before and I hate it, so I dreaded this part. I had a few problems at first, sanded and re-sprayed, and found a cool trick in the process. I bought a $15 paint spray gun from Harbor Freight (bought a few of them), then drilled out the nozzle with a 5/64” drill bit. This puts the nozzle right around 2mm, which works better for spraying the thick gel coat. Worked great! And if you accidentally allowed the gel coat to "kick" (harden) while its still in the gun, no problem. Toss it and get another $15 spray gun. Here's the nozzle, drilled out. I used the Spectrum Gel Coat, ordered online to match the 2007 Malibu black gel coat. Thinned with with about 10-15% styrene and sprayed it. This time it came out great. Since the pieces had so many curves and edges, I ended up giving it 3-4 layers because I knew it would be wetsanded quite a bit and I'm no expert. Was afraid I'd sand too far if I went thin. To get the see-through center for the LEDs, I then filled the dremel logo cutout with clear surfboard resin, combined with a little milled glass to add strength. I started by fiberglassing the backside of the cutout. This resin went in blue, but dries clear. After the backside inset was glassed over, I filled the center with the clear resin/glass mill mix from the front side using syringes. That way when it was wet sanded, it would be completely level. I added black gel to tint the top layer. This way it looks black until you turn the lights on. WETSANDING I got a lot of advice of one of our Wake Garage members ( @jfthunder) throughout the fiberglassing and gel coat process. He also advised not to start wet sanding at anything lower than 600 for black gel coat to prevent seeing the tiny scratches. He was right. I used 600, 800, 1000, and 1500. They polished to a high shine. Rinsing between sanding. Polished! Now we are getting somewhere. LIGHTS Didn't stress on the lights since they were just for fun. For now, I went cheap on the lights, just cut up some pieces from a waterproof 5050 red LED strip I ordered for $9 on Amazon. Soldered pieces together, then sealed them with resin. Not sure how waterproof they really are... but with fiberglass resin sealed over them I'd think it will last a long time. Time will tell. Should be easy to replace down the line with something better. Made some quick lids with fiberglass. Hacked 'em down a bit and then affixed the lights to the lid. I ended up having to use less lights than I planned for, because the strips weren't fitting into the cutout. This is because I didn't cut the back out big enough... but that's an easy fix for another day. I could redo these lids very quickly and inexpensively. Quick test with alligator clips to the battery, lights held with tape at this point. I then brushed black gel coat over the top side, and screwed the lid on the inside of the gate. Hope this helps the next guy. This project made my boat better, I think. UPDATE 8/20/17 I know the LEDs are not really functional... were just added for fun... But I took a few interesting pictures at the campsite this weekend. Wife and her friends were in the boat listening to music and having drinks and it was the first time I'd really seen the LEDs lit up from the shore. Kinda cool Looks like a Malibu sunset The previous owner added interior LEDs already, so I updated the speakers and these little guys.
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    I'm in the middle of it too, Rugger...for me, it's been a long process but I've added several smaller projects to the entire deal, so it's spiraled out of control. When it's all done I'll be sure to post them all. Hopefully yours goes smoother than mine. What started out as a simple carpet removal turned into a fiberglass exercise due to the dreaded sagging floor issue. Oh well, it will be better than new when done.
  45. 1 point
    Wet Sounds Rev-10 pods custom painted to match boat, with custom orange LEDs driven by Wet Sounds HT-4 amp
  46. 1 point
    After having this material, I can honestly say that I would never go back to carpet. Primary benefit is how fast it dries. In MN, mornings are cold and its nice being able to walk around the boat in your socks without getting wet. That being said, its not as comfortable on the knees...according to her...lol
  47. 1 point
    My therapist, my Surfing partner, says I have an obsession with boat exhaust.... I don't want to hear, smell, see the steam, or taste it while I'm behind the boat. I've posted once about my silent Stinger project. At the time I did it, I was torn between two ideas. so, this is the other idea I had and I think that it is actually the better of the 2. what about running a tailpipe similar to FAE thru the Wake plate??? Then you wouldn't need to run a cheesy bracket or worry about it falling off or changing position on you. Just how to make the exhaust flexible enough to move with the adjustable plate. So, my first step was to decide which Wake plate design I liked best. Centurions Stinger plate. I made a couple of changes, drew it out, and plasma cut it out of 11ga. 304 stainless. then, I needed to bend the batwings. I didn't have a break, so I made one from 1/2"x12"x48" steel and some angle iron. Since I was running thru a flat plate, I made a collector chamber from a 3.5" stainless tube and 2 1/2" stainless channel. The exhaust outlet is 3.5" stainless tube that I crushed between two plates using clamps. Then I angle cut both ends to flow it aft and down. Ordered a 3/8" hinge on Amazon, and some 3.5" wet exhaust hose also. Made an adjustable bracket to tie in the actuator( Hyperryd 's idea). Welded it up, mounted it and tested on the Delta. It is quiet, still have wave adjustability, lost 3mph at top end, just like with my FAE. the bat wings really cleaned up the goofy wave. The regular wave seems a little flatter but has plenty of push and still very surfable. I may shorten the starboard side wing to see if it changes. some of the pics are an asymmetric version for a friend.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Simple Sucgate project. Aluminum HOD (Handle On Demand, two stainless steel shelf brackets, one cutting board, stainless 1/4" hardware. I'm into this project for $50. I'm making another now. On the first version, the self bracket support members were just friction fit. As soon as the boat was put in reverse, they fell out. The gate still worked but it flexed a bit and allowed water between it and the boat and it seemed to throw more spray. The new ones are tack welded in there and should stay. I put a 20 degree bend in the short arms of the brackets and a spacer on the bottom holes to get a 20 degree angle on the cutting board. Extremely pleased with the results on a friends '01 Tige 21v with just 400#s on the surf side.
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