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  1. 5 points
    Hey all - finally back on my feet...thanks! Haven't surfed in a month - but plan to make it out today..I adjusted my tabs yesterday and made a few last controller updates - i'm going to test on the water this afternoon and i think the controllers all ready to go. I will need to improve the UI on the app its pretty barebones at the moment - but i think all the features are there. It should also be coded flexibly enough that you dont need to update the controller, just the app, to add new features/app updates. Once i hit the water with these last changes, I'll post things up!
  2. 5 points
    I did a lot of research over the last year and finally pulled the trigger. I purchased the Go Surf Assist system from Wakemakers and had my local dealer install on my 2011 Malibu VRide21 (05 - 08 VLX hull.) It was the installers first GSA install so I had Ryan from GSA guide him through my hull specific details and general installation. Two issues arose with install of the tabs on my hull. 1. Both Tab hinges needed to be modified around swim platform bump out on hull to ensure hinge was above bottom of hull. 2. Tab had to be installed 2" in from side of hull because of swim platform and actuator clearance. 4" is the recommended measurement but GSA gives a 2" tolerance in either direction. Ryan also suggested that the tab angle at max deployment be set at 8 to 10 degrees for malibu hulls of this era. This max angle will be the skim style setting on the controller. My install resulted in 8* max deployment (skim style) and almost 0* (level with hull) minimum deployment for surf style wave. I thought this was backwards, but confirmed it with Ryan and he said this install should be ideal. There are also 3 angle settings on the controller between surf and skim settings for adjusting the wave. It is also important for the tabs to retract as close the the swim platform brackets as possible when stowed to avoid potential wash in the wave. I can just fit my pinky in between platform and tab for reference. The controller is nice and easy to use. It has some nice features. One feature is lift mode, which dramatically improved my 0-22 mph time by approx 6 seconds with full ballast for wakeboarding! I'm at 3000 ft with 350 motor and 2419 acme prop.I was really impressed and the tabs retract automatically at 15 or 16 mph once you are on plane.It also will connect to Apple devices via bluetooth and the E61 surf app to allow remote control from Apple device. The newer controller also sets the tabs by default to your last setting on the dial. So if you have the dial set to surf, when you hit surf left, the tab will deploy to the 0* angle on my setup. The older controllers always defaulted to max deployment regardless of last setting and adjustments needed to be made each time. I have water tested the system and am really impressed with wave and system performance. I have not surfed it yet because of cold water temp so all observations are from inside the boat. Ballast setup during testing: Bow: 750 plumbed bow bag on seat, 200 lead (no front tank on vride) Midship: 580 bag plumbed in place of hard tank, 370 plumbed bag under coffin seat port side, 600 lbs in peeps, 3/4 full fuel tank, 300 lead moved around as needed. Rear: 400 hard tanks, 1500 plumbed bags, floating wedge. GSA tabs. Update: I forgot to mention a few other details. Transfers were clocked just under 3 seconds, Tabs provided some lift and lowered the bow significantly, especially when in skim setting. Nose will rise slightly in surf setting vs skim, but both had less bow rise than same weight setup with a suckgate. My shorter drivers will really appreciate this result.
  3. 4 points
    Since getting my Malibu almost 2 years ago, one thing that has bothered me is that we have such high tech boats that monitor our hard ballast tanks, but no way to monitor the bags. Malibu has since added L-shaped rear hard tanks that will monitor the rear bags, but for people with older boats there is not a good solution that I am aware of. Although I am no where near a level of riding that requires super precise filling of ballast bags, I still found myself lifting the rear cushions to look at the bags when dumping bags from full back to 1/2 or empty. So I decided this winter to head down the path of getting me a rear bag monitoring setup going. I started the research phase looking for a good water pressure sensor that I could use to just drop into the top of the bag. I ended up with a Maretron Submersible Pressure Transducer. The unit is kinda pricey, but has a very low psi range so provides a nice degree of accuracy for the only 2-3ft of water depth I will be measuring. It is also submersible so the idea is to just use a 1" NPT fitting to drop it into a spare top fitting on my Sumo bags. It is part number PTS-0-1.5PSI-01 Here are some of the technical details on the pressure transducer: https://www.maretron.com/support/manuals/Submersible Pressure Transducers Installation Instructions-T 2.1.html I replaced the metal mounting plate with a 1" to 1/2" NPT plastic adapter from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HQ725U?psc=1&pf_rd_p=454aaa48-6bbd-4d89-855c-bfb126bc7fa3&pf_rd_r=KRK1ANDC6JBDSEGN5WSH&pd_rd_wg=SCSSV&pd_rd_i=B008HQ725U&pd_rd_w=gkVHN&pd_rd_r=84b257a3-d744-4e15-876f-5b531e276cd5&ref_=pd_luc_rh_rp_330_01_04_t_img_lh This is what the sensor looks like. I will just drop the sensor with wiring into the top of the bags 1" NPT port. Screw the previously mentioned 1" to 1/2" NPT adapter onto the cable gland that comes with the sensor. Tighten the cable gland on the wire where there is plenty of wire inside the bag for the sensor to stay laying on the bottom of the bag even when full. That is about it for the bag and sensor. These sensors are typical 4-20mA current loop sensors. So I needed a way to measure these sensor outputs. I decided on 1 Arduino controller with 2 current to voltage converters(1 for each rear bag). The voltage output from the converters will be input into the Arduino on two Analog inputs. These signals then can be sent through the analog to digital converter in the Arduino for use. The following picture is from testing of the pressure transducer and the current to voltage converter. I just dropped the sensor into about 6 inches of water in a thermos bottle using this setup and measurements were super sensitive. While I was trying to get the above portions tested out and verify proof of concept, I was trying to decide how I wanted to display this ballast information. My first thought was to go easy and just use a cheap little character LCD. The following was some testing I did that used an adjustable voltage to change the numbers on the LCD. I wasn't super excited about this look compared to everything else in the boat. After some more time passed, I decided to mess around with a true LCD just because it could look MUCH MUCH better. So I purchased a touchscreen LCD to tinker with. This project probably will never require touchscreen functions, but I went ahead and got one because I could envision in the future creating a bow bag controller using this same screen with some tweaks to show rear and and front bag levels and to also fill/drain the front bag using the touchscreen. That is a project for way down the road. For now, I created a basic UI layout that just displays the rear bag levels in 25% increments. I can tweak this after I get it all setup and decide what works best. I am no Adobe Photoshop guru so I kept the screen designs basic. For initial setup, I will probably create a screen that shows raw voltages of my bag sensors. I can use that screen to determine exact voltage levels for empty/full/etc.. I can then setup some ranges in the Arduino code to show the correct percentages on the screen based on the inputs. I am planning on making a box to hold this LCD screen and place it in the little cubby hole to the right of the captains chair in a Malibu. I might come up with something better in the future, but this puts it out of the way. As for the electronics, I purchased a box to mount everything in. I drew most of it up in CAD to test the layout/fitment. I now have most everything on the box mounting plate. I just need to machine holes for the 3 wires to pass through the box. There will be one 2 wire cable that goes to 12V and ground. There will be a 4 wire cable that exits the box and heads to the rear of the boat for rear bag sensor hookups. There will also be a 12 wire cable that exists to the remote mounted LCD. I have to finish up the electronics box and the LCD housing box and it will be ready for initial testing in the boat. I hope to have it all ready to go in the boat when the season starts up around here in late March/early April. I am also using a lot of Deutsch connectors with boots, heat shrinks, etc. so I still got a little more to do to get all that wrapped up as well. I will update this when I get the box all finished up and the LCD housing built. I have had a couple requests to get this posted over here so here it is so far. There are several ways to do this much cheaper than the way I have chosen to do it. The wiring and pressure sensors are definitely on the high end of the spectrum. Feel free to ask any specifics about what I have done so far. I hope to be on the water testing it in about a month...bring on spring! UPDATE I got my LCD box back from the 3d printer at the first of the week. A few tolerances were a little tight for the LCD to fit so I had to do some slight machining on a mill today. I kinda expected that as I just had it printed out of ABS using a cheaper printing option so tolerance is not quite as close as for say a SLA 3d print is. The little brass 4-40 press in threaded inserts worked perfectly. I did also make a mistake on two of my LCD hold down holes. I ended up having to remove 2 of the 4. I should still be able to make it work, I will just have to drill 2 holes and make a different tab for one side of the LCD hold down. If you look at the back image of the LCD, you will notice only 2 brass threaded inserts...I had planned on 4 for hold downs. I plan to try to swing by the boat in storage this weekend and double check it will go in the little covey I want to put it in. It will be close. If it fits, I will cut a wire hole in the box and start trying to wire up the LCD. The white paper you see over the LCD is a piece of clear acrylic cut that will be the 'lense' for the LCD for protection. I will glue that in so it is water tight, then put the LCD behind that. Progress still being made and hope to have it ready to all go in the boat when it comes home for the spring.
  4. 4 points
    Decided to pull the trigger on the FAE setup with the deletion of the old Silent Ride muffler. Being local to the FAE folks (Larry/Christina), I had the ability to drive down to their modest little shop in Spicewood to pick it all up. They are truly good people, extremely friendly and helpful. I could have done the muffler delete using mandrel bends from another vendor, but I decided the cost savings wasn't that much and I like to support the small business folks. The install was very simple and straight forward, the removal of the old Silent Ride muffler was probably the biggest pain of the entire process. All parts married up perfectly and definitely created much more room for impeller replacements! I opted for the one piece Y with blended welds and installed flappers. I waited to purchase around Black Friday and Christina knocked $125 off the order total. Hope this post helps anyone who's been thinking about the FAE.
  5. 4 points
    I've been meaning to make this for a while but finally got to it yesterday. I Started with 2 mandrel bent stainless 90's (available on amazon, or summit etc) and 1 12" section of 3" Stainless tube (i had it in the shop, but also available at amazon or summit etc) Oddly enough the mandrels were a Perfect fit even before any trimming so all I had to do was square the ends and weld them together. Once welded I notched the tube for the downpipe and marked where it would go. Cut that out with a plasma and then used a die grinder to clean it up. This could also easily be done with a dremel. For the downpipe I slash cut it and then put it in a vise to taper the end to hopefully avoid as much spray as possible. Then it was welded up and test fit: From there I cut some stainless flanges: The original plan was to do it without any couplers, just bolt it on. However once I started that process it's damn near impossible to get the screw holes aligned and the angles correct so I caved and just sliced the ends off and put couplers on. I can't fit my boat in my shop and I was too lazy to drag a welder out into the driveway, otherwise I would have just put it together and tacked it on the boat to fit. This picture is before cleanup and squaring etc. I decided to have to tubes extend into the factory exhaust as it's a tight fit and I think it will add some support and take some stress off the screw holes. Now I just need to add a support to the swim deck mount and I'll be good to go! That will pull the angle up a bit, as it sits it's sagging a bit under it's own weight in the silicone couplers. Added a mount to the swim deck this afternoon and cleaned everything up a bit. Total cost ~100 + roughly 2 hours of my time.
  6. 4 points
    2nd time doing a boat interior myself. Not show quality but good enough for me. The interior was already a 8/10 but the white/grey/red wasn't working. I also fabricated a fiberglass walkway to keep people off the new vinyl.
  7. 4 points
    Winner!! Congrats to @Shadetreefab for winning the drawing. Thanks again to Glide Bearings for hooking up Wake Garage members, again! They have the best products and great people! Glide will contact you directly to send your system and swag!
  8. 4 points
    1983 ski nautique 2001. Needs a deipless shaft seal. Wheels and tires on the trailer.
  9. 3 points
    I've had FAE exhaust for years and always wanted to get around to a muffler delete. 1, because the muffler kind of becomes redundant with FAE, and some people noticed a bit of a power bump, and/or an actual sound decrease from the engine bay. Both of those sound good to me. Finally found time to get it done. This was just a quick fix, and most certainly not the cheapest, or most extravagant way to get it done. But the ease and time of putting it together was the main driver of my product selection. I didn't like the FAE muffler delete with the mitered 45* angles... The high performance engine guy I am would let that happen. The cheapest acceptable way to me would be to get about 4' of stainless and make a bunch of 7.5* pie cuts, form the proper s bends, and then weld away... Probably less than $100, but would take me at least 8 hours a side, cutting, welding, and running back and forth to boat for test fits. I decided on a combo of metal and rubber 45* bends to get the job done. The 8.1 has a 4" tube coming out of the exhaust riser to muffler input, and a 3.5" outlet from muffler to transom exit. So I went with a 4" stainless mandrel bent 45, a marine rated 45* rubber elbow, and a stainless 4" to 3.5" reducer. I cut off 2.25" from the rubber 90* 3.5" hose that went from the muffler to transom exit, and put in new 7.5" long (factory length was 9") 4" hose from the riser to the stainless 90. The stainless 45* bends were $56 each (vibrant 13104) Amazon The rubber 45* elbows with clamps were $62 each. (Trident Marine. Amazon.) The 4"-3.5" t304 stainless reducers were from ebay $20 each. So $276 before tax. I ended up cutting 3.5 or so inches off each end of the stainless bends. Turned out nice, and probably 4 hours max putting it together. I started it up on a fake a lake, but didn't put it in the water yet, so I have no idea what difference it makes. I'll have to update in a few weeks. In this pic from top to bottom: 1. 3.5" Rubber 90 transom exhaust exit to muffler 2. 4" - 3.5" reducer 3. 4" 45* rubber 4. 4" 45 stainless 5. 4" straight rubber to riser.
  10. 3 points
    I went round and round in my mind about whether to make a set of surf gates or tabs for my boat. Gates seemed easier, but when I made a ghetto gate to test the "proof of concept", the wave wasn't very good, and my boat didn't like it much. So tabs it is. I looked at the tabs that come on basically all the manufacturers that used them, and ended up essentially copying what's on the MB boats. I made about 100 drawings, and at least 3 cardboard mockups until I was happy with it, then gave those measurements to my buddy, who put them into CAD. I wouldn't recommend using the measurements in this drawing to make a set. This was one of my first drawings, and the measurements are pretty far off. I also made some cardboard mockup actuators, at retracted and extended length to see how everything would fit. They were a little flimsy, so later I made some out of paint stir sticks. We got the metal waterjet cut, bent at a local fabricator, and then welded them up. I could have saved about $150 by cutting everything myself and welding on the side pieces instead of bending them, but the finished product is much nicer this way. I also had to make the lower actuator brackets, which is of 2" square aluminum tube with one side shaved off. The tabs are 3/16" 5052 aluminum plate, roughly 17.5" wide x 21" long. Everything powdercoated satin black. Lenco uses #14 screws for their trim tab hinges, so that's what I was going to do too. They say to drill the pilot holes with a 3/16" bit. Drilling into the hull was more than a little nerve-wracking. First screw cracked the hell out of the gelcoat and froze in place about 1/2" in, and the head broke off. F*%k!!! I decided to leave that screw alone, and used #12 screws for the rest. I also had to use the Lenco remote gland seal kit to route the actuator wires into the boat, because where the actuators mount is below the floor in the lockers. Broke one screw on each of those too. 1" thick fiberglass does not like being screwed into. For controls, I'm initially using regular Lenco trim tab switches. I made a mounting plate to mount the switches in the huge hole left by the Sony remote next to the throttle. I made a relay panel, for when I get a controller. The switches and Lenco wiring would work fine without it, but the controller can't handle that kind of amperage. The relay panel is behind the rear panel in my starboard locker. The first day of testing had mixed results. The wave forms almost instantly, and the shape is much better and more fun than the Nauticurl wave, but at the moment doesn't have as much push. I need to move weight around to see where it needs to be. (Most of this was written as I went, obviously I have made progress and know results of a lot of this. One thing here, was not playing enough with tab deployment. It was almost full deployment, 18 degrees down, for this initial testing) I need to remove some weight from the bow, because the tab pushes the nose down, as well as lists the boat. That may add some push. My biggest mistake was using aluminum hinges. That’s what MB uses, but I guess theirs are much thicker than what I used. My hinges started to bend, particularly at that one broken screw. I pulled the tabs back off, and was able to get that broken screw out. My buddy suggested we tap the holes for ¼”-20 machine screws, which is what we ended up doing. The threads are the same depth as the sheet metal screws, but there are many more of them, so the holding power will be much greater. I don’t know why Lenco and others don’t suggest doing it this way. I ordered some new, thicker, stainless steel hinges. They are significantly stronger and better. Got the boat back in the water for more testing after the hinge replacement. I moved all the lead I had in the bow to the floor in front of the rear seat on the surf side. I also initially only filled the bow ballast halfway. Nose was way too high, needed more speed and wakeplate full down. I filled the bow ballast the rest of the way, and really seemed to make a powerful wave. The proof is in the surfing, but I was the only one in the boat, so surf test would have to wait. (An updated note here again. I still hadn't fully played with tab deployment angles, so these still were not the optimum wave or weight placement.) So at this point, I started to A) worry about the length of these tabs and the forces being put on the hinge and transom, and B) wonder if a shorter, simpler tab would work as well. After all, the stock Moomba Flow 2.0 tabs are quite a bit smaller and work great. Started making smaller test tabs. There is be a 1.5", 30° bend where the line is on the right, both for rigidity and to help direct the water. No Waterjet this time, since they don't need to be quite so precise. Used a circular saw, and got them within 1/16". Not too bad. Once again, I made the lower actuator mounts out of 2" square 1/8" wall aluminum tube. This time I left a reinforcing piece on the top, to keep the sides from flexing in and tightening too much on the actuator. Smoothed everything out and rounded all the sharp edges, then started to test fit. I wasn't sure what angles I wanted the tabs to deploy. You can see the marks for various angles written on the plastic. I went to my local Moomba dealer and had the sales guy deploy a set for me so I could see. Moomba's max down angle is 30 degrees, but most seem to run them at 60%, so 20 degrees. So it gave me something to work with for setting my tab angles. I had originally made lower brackets that had a single hole for the actuator. But I decided I wanted to have some adjustability. I made a couple different versions, but ended up with a design I like. They have 4 actuator holes (of which only 3 are really usable) which will provide 18, 24, and 30 degrees of deployment. I also made it so I can move the mount itself a half inch to change the angles more. Tabs were bent to 30 degrees, holes drilled. I also made diversion fins for the bottom of the tabs, 2 on each. I'll see how these work, and may play with the angles a bit with those as well. They are currently set at 60° from the transom.  For the first test surf, the wave felt better and larger than the black tabs. However, I wasn't sure if that was because of how the boat was weighted, tab angles, etc.  What we ended up doing was a head-to-head test with both sets of tabs. I went out with some buddies (we all surf regular) to test both sets of tabs I made to see if one is better. We filled all the bags (1100s rear, 400 center, 750 IBS, and a 400 on the floor in the pass through) and 150 lead in each locker, 50 under right rear seat, 150 on surf side rear floor, 170 under bow filler cushion. So just about 4k total. 3 guys at 210ish and 1 girl maybe 140. The first set were the smaller of the 2. At 11.0 and wakeplate up, the wave was great, big with lots of push. For reference, my buddy in the pics is 6'2", 220+.  Then we went back to the dock where I swapped out the starboard tab for the larger, black one. The pic shows the size difference between the two.  We went back out and surfed the black tab, same weight and placement, just less gas. If I didn't tell you the tabs were different, you probably wouldn't know the difference. But the wave seemed a little bit larger, a little bit longer, and a little more push. It also seemed "harder" or firmer. It was kind of weird and took some getting used to. The most surprising thing was how little downward angle the tabs had for the best wave. I measured the silver set just before swapping out, and it was only 5° down. I wasn't able to measure the black set, but the angle was similar. Overall, I'm torn on which set I'm keeping. I like that the black set wave is a tiny bit better, but I also like how much smaller the silver set is. Decisions, decisions...  So here's what I have in everything so far. Black tabs: Aluminum 3/16" plate - $120 2" square tube, 1/8" wall - $8 Waterjet cuts - $100 Bends - $37.50 Powdercoating - $80 Total: $345.50 Silver tabs: Aluminum 3/16" plate - $30 2" square tube - leftover from above 3 ft of 1" angle aluminum 1/8" wall - $10 Cutting/bending - $0 Polishing or powdercoating to come Total: $40 + finish Everything else: Hinges .09" stainless, 1/4" pin - $50 Lenco 101xds actuators - $360/pr Lenco trim tab switches - $70 Lenco cable extensions - $60/pr Lenco remote gland seal kit - $28 Misc stainless hardware - $50 Misc electrical - $50 3M 4200 sealant - $14 Extras total: $682
  11. 3 points
    I decided I wanted to make a surf board. I was bored and thought it would be a fun thing to make. I started with a glued up walnut slab that I already had (My company makes wood countertops) Since I have virtually no knowledge of surfboard design I winged it and drew it up in CAD after a little research. I then threw it on the CNC and got to cutting. All this could be relatively easily shaped by hand as there aren't a lot of curves, would just be a little more time consuming. Made a rough cut and then switched to ball nose and made a final pass. Walnut sands pretty easily so I didn't bother going super fine on the cut as the cut marks sand out easily. For a harder or more close grained wood you can step down the stepover on the bit and get an almost smooth surface, it just takes a lot longer. From there it's a bunch of sanding. A bunch of sanding . A little epoxy to fill any cracks and imperfections: I then epoxied the whole things with a light layer to help with sealing. As a first go I didn't want to go to the trouble to glass it. From there I CNC'ed out for a center fin (board is too shallow for the side fins using these Futures fin boxes) Then sprayed with a Urethane clear and tossed on some grip: First test was fairly successful, it's a little slow but very stable and easy to ride!
  12. 3 points
    Pretty simple install here. I was putting in gatorstep so I decided to add a ladder to the platform. Ladder $109 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6CU5ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_aohIEb6A1KG0S Hardware - 8 1/4"-1.5" stainless bolts and lock nuts Really better with 2 people. I used rounded head bolts if I had to do it again I'd use the counter sunk ones. I still may swap before the gator goes on.
  13. 3 points
    This is similar to a lot of the DIY surf gate installs. In particular Marks CorianGate install gave me the confidence to start drilling. And it inspired my gate material selection. I used some left over Corian countertop material from my parents home built in the 80's. So, theres one point for being a hoarder. I upgraded this year from an older, IO boat to a used 2011 Wakesetter VLX. I was able to surf on it, but it got old quick switching ballast around to change sides. I determined that some mods were required to get the most from this boat. So, with inspiration from everyone else here who has made a DIY surf gate, I decided to make my own. I started by making a plywood version of what I thought the gates should be. I made mine about 12x18, worried that bigger gates would put more force on the hull that it was not designed for. They seem to work pretty well, so I'm not sure how much the size and shape of the gates affect the resultant wave. I first assembled the hinges, and test gates into a test fixture that I could use to test the controller software. This also let me do a test install with crap hardware to see how the gates hinge, and how much of a bevel was needed on the hinge side of the gates. I wanted my gate to be as automated as possible, with GPS control and all of the bells and whistles, so it had to have an electronic controller. I have a lot of esp32 controllers laying around that I wanted to use. They are pretty advanced with WiFi and Bluetooth which I figure could be handy for firmware updates and for potential control from a smartwatch. I'm not sure how well that would work, but why not put the capability there? The controller is not as full featured as I want it to be yet, but so far it has GPS, multiple gate control levels, wifi control, wifi firmware updating, and a nifty e-ink screen. I just used some 20A relays that I found on Amazon. There's also a 12V to 3.3V converter in there to power the esp32 and a few other things. Its not pretty, but I coated it all with some silicone conformal coating and threw it in a box. The screen, buttons, and GPS are all mounted on an aluminum piece that will mount under the dash. They got a double coat of the conformal coating. The buttons match the factory power and horn buttons on a 2011 Wakesetter. Originally, I used a color OLED display but I found it to be very difficult to read in the sunlight. I swapped it out for a nifty e-ink screen that is very readable. I'm super happy with the results and it lets me show some information which was helpful in debugging the gate software control. EDIT: I updated with a better photo of the control panel as installed. It didn't turn out as clean as I'd like, but I rushed to get it installed before a trip to Powell. You can see the original holes where my original OLED screen would have went before I had decided to go with the e-ink screen. On the control side a single button push on the side of the surfer will "ARM" the system. It uses the GPS to deploy the gates at 8.5 mph, and retract them at 13.5 mph. A button push on the other side will transfer the wave, and a button push on the arm'd side with disarm the system. When the gates are active the light ring will illuminate. I wanted to be able to experiment with different angles, so a long push on the buttons will cycle the gate through 1-5 extension levels. I found that about halfway extended was the sweet spot. I'm using lenco actuators, so the settings are just fractions of the full extension time. For the install, I used my plywood gates as a template and cut the corian pieces to match. Corian is pretty easy to work. I just cut and sanded everything. I ended up using bigger hinges that I used on my test rig, they are beefy and probably overkill, but I'm happy with how solid they feel. I used some aluminum plate and stainless steel washers on the inside to make sure the load was evenly distributed. Everything sealed with 3M 4200. The first water tests blew my 10A fuse and I had to go back to dock with a fully extended tab. After replacing it with a 15A, I was good to go. Also, the GPS receivers on water require much better antennas. I don't have photos, but my GPS module came with a small antenna that worked fine on land, but would not lock on the lake. After I upgraded to an active antenna it worked perfectly. Overall, I've very pleased with the results, the wave is much longer, and much easier to transfer and setup. I do feel like it lost a little bit of push, but I now have a much longer surfable area. I went from full ballast on the surf side and center tanks, 88% wedge surfing at 10.0, to full left, right and center and full wede surfing at 10.6. Let me know if you want any additional details. Next up, I need to upgrade the ballast system.
  14. 3 points
    After enjoying our first season surfing on our new-to-us 2006 Moomba XLV last summer, I was ready to overhaul the terribly slow stock sprinkler valve/aerator pump/manifold ballast system Moomba used. So this Spring, I set out to redesign the system. Huge shout out to @TimbrSS for his help, as I used his project and advice along the way. Overall, I added 2 new Wakemakers 1140# bags in each rear locker, kept the stock Gravity Games front 1180# bag in the ski locker, and re-purposed one of the stock 400# bags to a driver's side midship placement, since my family all surfs goofy. Each bag is filled/drained with 1" lines and by its own Johnson reversible pump. I used a slower Jabsco pump for the 400# bag. I had a pump rack custom built and painted by my crafty neighbor... thanks Jerry!! Here's the details: Step 1: Tear out the stock system... Here's a stack of some of its parts. Next, I ran the electrical. I used 10 awg wire from the Blue Seas Fuse Block to the stock Carling Switches, and then to the pumps. I swapped out a stock ACC switch cover for a custom midship switch cover I designed from Rocker Switch Pros. I still need to run my cable from my house battery to the fuse block. On to cutting holes... I used the stock 3/4" thru hull/ball valve from the original manifold system for the Jabsco/Midship pump and bag. Then, I added 3 new 1" thru hulls/valves for the other pumps. I cut 2 on the driver side of the v-drive (which I staggered for a hopeful reduction in flow interference if I'm trying to fill on the move), and another on the other side of the v-drive (behind the raw water scupper intake so not to cause any interference with that intake) ... 4 thru hulls total. For the vents, I had to drill 1 new vent for the midship bag, and had to enlarge all others for my new vent thru hulls... I wanted to remove the stock plastic ones and have all others match to give a clean look. I had to use a deep socket to guide the hole saw into the pre-existing holes to enlarge them. When it came to tightening down the ball valves and fill/drain thru hulls, I had to create a key to fit inside the thru hulls from a 5/8" deep socket, with a notch I ground into the middle. For my pump location, I designed a rack similar to @TimbrSS and had a neighbor weld, prime, and paint a custom 4 pump rack to hang the reversible pumps on. Then I installed the pumps on the rack, wired them up, and then mounted the rack to the transom. I looped my wiring at the pumps to leave room for future changes (I wanted to order up some deutsch connectors for this but was ready to save some coin by this point), and did it in a way that I could fit the loops behind the top lip of the stock transom cut out. I wanted to Last, I routed all of the new 1" lines and new fittings for fill/drain, re-purposed some of the 3/4" stock system line and fittings for vents, and threw the bags into their lockers.
  15. 3 points
    I wanted to move the sub from inside the main storage compartment to i the main part of the boat because I thought the bass was too muffled. My criteria was: no cutting holes look good sound good ( used a Skar DDx 1200watt rms- non marine but the sub fit the specs what I was looking for and I was hoping that this single 10” would sound more like 2 subs) The box was covered in vinyl similar to the interior and I Allen some red LED just for the added extra something. I had to do stack fabrication (YouTube car audio fabrication) to get the box to fit just perfect. I realize there are some drawback to this box. Mostly the sub is non marine rated and it is facing up and could get splashed. The grill is easily roved Incase water needs to be wiped away. I’ve been out a couple times this year and so far it seems to be really well placed and out of the way.
  16. 3 points
    Sorry all, i do have the new controller built - and 2 installed - just slowed down with a broken finger (cast on since 4 weeks ago, the day after i put my boat in finally..) I'll post up my bluetooth controller code and build list today - it's a rewrite of most of the code (including removing the rotary encoders - you can tweak in the app niw.) The build is much simpler and only requires the controller (https://www.amazon.com/DFROBOT-Romeo-BLE-Arduino-Bluetooth/dp/B00PS3XHSQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=romeo+ble+arduino&qid=1565643755&s=gateway&sr=8-1) and GPS (same gps as before) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRNN3YZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) If you want physical controls it supports a 3 way switch like before, and 3 buttons (left/off/right) with LED lights for modes - or just app control. You wire it and set the specific configuration in the app - no code mods needed. The app lets you adjust the deploy times on the fly while riding, default settings - as well as tweaking all the settings the controller uses. Currently the app is only an android APK and i need to make it a prettier, but it works fine. Control is over wireless bluetooth. I do have an android wear app for controlling while surfing but the range is spotty at the moment -if i can improve i'll release. From personal experience - i would not recommend a screen/touchscreen arduino on a boat. Marine environment is tough on parts in general - and there's no decent arduino driven touchscreens that aren't expensive or extremely fragile. I had an OLED display on my previous build that i removed because it was a pain in the butt. The phone is a MUCH better controller, everyone has one already, and you can see speed, deploy, settings, etc all on the app. You're better off grabbing a $20 fire tablet and using that than a dedicated screen. Anyway, the new code will be up here in the next day or so: https://github.com/jonthompson/surfactuator
  17. 3 points
    OK ran it yesterday. SUPER informative. I didn't get a chance to fill the boat yet so I can't speak to accuracy in my use case, but my butt dyno/experience suggests that the burn number is probably pretty accurate for what I'd have expected for the day. LOL seeing 13gph while surfing is pretty humbling tho!
  18. 3 points
    Dammit!!!! I just bought one last week. but thats ok I don't have Facebook. Here is a pic of my boat anyway 2000 Tige 21 V. The Smart Wheel Good luck to everyone else.
  19. 3 points
    2005 Malibu VLX i want to do a drip less seal system
  20. 3 points
    Not a big project --- but after having a few instances over the years where we ended up with a lot of water in the boat (don't ask), as well as after drilling more and more ballast ports to allow water in --- I had always wanted to add a second bilge pump to my boat as a safety net. Mine did not come with one. I did this project last summer. And if you're going to do it... might as well go big. I opened up a lot of space in the rear of the bilge when I redid the exhaust. So I bought a larger pump than hopefully I'll ever need, a Johnson 2200. My stock bilge pump is a 750 gph. I moved that one forward a little bit in the bilge, which made it lower and serves as the primary bilge pump, and then secured the big daddy Johnson 2200 in the rear corner... about the only place I could fit it. I mounted the floating switch so it will be the backup/OMG/secondary pump. The new pump comes with a 1 1/2 and 2" output ports. I used the 1 1/2" and bought matching PVC hose (same as our common ballast hose, but a little bigger). And then picked up a larger stainless port and brought it out the side of the boat... so it just sits in line with the ballast ports. Not a big project... but a little extra piece of mind / safety net. I filled up the bilge with water to test it and then powered the new pump.... it was cool to see how much volume could shoot out the side. Enlarged and beveled out the hole for the stainless thru-port with a Dremel. This is what the Johnson 2200 pump looks like. It's pretty large.
  21. 3 points
    The Malibu VRide doesn't come optioned with a front ballast hard tank like the wakesetters. It is a budget version of the wakesetter and its platform is the previous hull design (08 vlx hull on the 2011 vride.) Instead of bow mls, it has a U shaped seat base and storage under the playpin seating. The center tank is also an option which my boat didn't have, however the previous owner plumbed aerator pumps for a bag in place of mid tank. They also plumbed for rear bags with dedicated pumps for each locker. I added a 580 lbs center bag and 750 bags in rear to previously installed system using quick connects. It does have 200 lbs rear hard tanks on each side. All plumbed bags and tanks are controlled by toggles for fill and drain. I also ran a 750 bow sac on top of seat and a 370 sac under coffin seat port side which I had to fill with manual pumps over the side of the boat. In an effort to gain back my bow seating and integrate all ballast bags into automated system, I began the following mod. First, I removed the seat base which was very simple. 8 screws. The hardest part was finding the screws in the carpet. I then cut a modified seat base out of 3/4 plywood (this will be temporary until I can redo with hdpe) I removed the brackets from the bottom of cushions so they would sit flush on base. The new base is also supported with a 4x4 and a plastic post base which was installed to set in the gap of the u shaped bow bag. I used the cushion brackets I had removed by attaching to the modified base to hold it in place. This was done to avoid wear from moving, sliding and possibly damaging the vinyl. I sanded and smoothed the edges of the wood and then used a rhino liner type product to seal and protect the wood. I hope it will last through this season until I upgrade the material to hdpe next winter. I placed the bow bag under bow seating and it fit very well, much better than with the OEM seat base. It will allow more weight in bag. I would guess about 350 to 400 lbs before the seat base begins rising. I then began the ballast install. I had two tee handle drain plugs. One in vdrive area and the other at midship. I used the one near the vdrive and installed a ball valve to a Y fitting and 1 inch hose split to two jabsco reversible pumps I located under port coffin seat. Reversible pumps will fill and drain from through hull. I then ran hose from one pump under coffin seating into battery compartment, over wall and into bow under seats to bow bag and attached with quick attach fitting. The other pump feeds the coffin bag. I have since used another Y fitting to split the hose in the battery compartment and run another piece to the bow bag. I installed another quick coupler on the other side of the U shaped bow bag for better fill and drain. I wired the pumps to the included rocker switches. I wired the power to the circuit breaker panel. I had a few open breakers that I swapped out with 30 amp breakers. I grounded under the helm on the ground bar. I cut holes and mounted rockers under drivers arm rest next to where I plan on mounting my GSA controller. This location was easiest to get wire to and also is protected from passengers accidentally engaging pumps. I chose not to vent the bags since neither bag will fill completely before seats begin raising and the reversible pumps suck them flat with no air left inside. I also added 200 lbs of lead to bow and another 300 to use as needed in the cabin. The bow bag can also be placed on top of seats or below with ease. The lead and bag placement gives me a few different options depending on crew size.
  22. 3 points
    Just got the interior put back together on my buddy TJ’s 2001 SAN. This has been a project I’ve been doing for him since I have the boat stored in my building for the winter. The upholstery work has been done by a small local seamstress that I’ve used for all my projects. She does great work at a fair price as long as you’re willing to give her plenty of time! This is what we started with First pieces I took to get done and she accidentally flip flopped the colors This looks a lot better New patch on top, original patch on bottom Got heating elements for the captains chair and passenger seat Had her add some foam to these front pieces to correct the loose fitting issue Finished product all put together. Turned out great!
  23. 2 points
    For those that have older boats, you may have battled the eye sore called the stationary pylon. I looked into aftermarket options and didn't see anything that would quite do the job. I also read posts where some had done some extensive modifications to create their own with success but I approached it a bit differently. Instead of modifying the area that holds the pylon by extending it and adding a groove for a bolt to ride in, I had a groove put in the pylon to allow it to ride on a pin. Basically I reversed what is done from the factory. The machinist took off about .030 to allow the unit to move in and out . There is a slight taper that helps lock the pylon in place so this had to be removed. All I need to do (in theory) is drill and tap the mounting bracket and add a pin to sit in the groove. The bracket will hold the same load as before and considering the pylon is a ridiculously overbuilt chunk of billet, it should not have any problems pulling anything. I will post more once I get it installed and tested. To finish this I drilled and tapped a 3/8" stainless bolt directly into the frame that originally held the pylon.
  24. 2 points
    edit: This project followed the interior replacement project found here: While pulling out the seats I found out the carpet was so much worse than I had originally thought. This was about the same time I had found a good deal on a newer Tige Z3. I ended up buying the Tige and was now the owner of two boats. My wife thought I should just sell the Malibu and stop dumping money into it, but I had come this far and the old girl deserved some new carpet.  I did the carpet over the 4th of July holiday. Phoenix gets stupid hot in the summer, but it was only 108 degrees that day. Almost bearable with the assistance of my shade fort that I made with a boat cover and an EZup.  The existing carpet pulled up pretty easy but left a layer of glue that was crazy sticky. I used a hot gun and a trowel to remove as much as I could, but when I did a test fit it screwed-up some of the carpet when I tried to pull the carpet back out and some of the carpet fibers got stuck in the glue. To overcome the sticky problem, I put down a temporary layer of plastic. I ended up leaving the existing carpet under the port side seats as it was in relatively good shape and it allowed me to not have to use the bit of carpet that got ruined.   Carpet install was pretty straight forward. I glued down the carpet it 3'-4' sections using contact cement. It took all day and my head was spinning from the fumes, but it came out really nice. It was definitely worth the effort, now it feels like a new boat.
  25. 2 points
    Last year I refinished the teak (Iroko actually) platform on my 23V and it came out OK but the wood was starting to rot a bit and the color was darker than I wanted. After riding behind Allfab's boat and talking with him about his platform I decided to make another one. I've always been a fan of wood platforms, I wish they still put them on new boats. IMO it adds a classy nostalgic touch that fiberglass doesn't have. It's modeled after the 24VE platform and is a good bit bigger than the stock one. Counter intuitive for surfing it seems but his works really well, it actually helps shape the wave rather than just ride above it. You can see the shape and size difference here I ordered about 50bdft of 5/4 Mahogany from my lumber supplier and planed it down. Straight lined the pieces (you can use a router jig, a track saw, or a joiner to do this as well) Then sanded them smooth (bot not too smooth, I stick with 80 grit and below so they aren't slippery in the water) I put a 1/4" roundover down the length of each board but forgot to take pictures of that. Then lay it out and mark out your cuts Once your satisfied with the layout screw it all together, taking care to keep screws out of where you're going to cut. From there just cut it out. I used the old platform to trace the curve from the boat, and the plywood platform template from @Allfab to to rough out the shape. I went a little more geometric than the curves he has which will probably be a hindrance to my wave lol but I like the look. And then you roundover the edges, and sand the cuts and oil the sucker. Mohogany is an oily tropical hardwood so it doesn't take much oil. Start to finish roughly 3-4 hours.
  26. 2 points
    This is what I waste my "go fast" money on:
  27. 2 points
    Hopefully this will help someone else out wanting to do the same thing. I was tired of throwing a pump over the side of my boat to fill my rear sacs up so I decided to plumb them in this winter and started project last weekend. I could not find a thread for this specific boat and set up so I pieced things together from pictures and watching the gravity III ballast upgrade on wakemakers site which i do not have I only have one center ballast bag. I ordered all my stuff from wakemakers and chose to go with reversible pumps. I will say one thing spend the extra money and use the plug and wake kit they sell I chose not to and ended up buying the same deutsch dtp connectors they use so pretty much shot myself in the foot there having to make all those connectors up. But ifYou donÂ’t mind making the connections up or you can use different style connectors and order the wire from amazon. The only reason I used the same connectors is because IÂ’m going to add there timers to system. also if you need a crimping tool for closed barrel connectors I got one off amazon literally 10 times cheaper than expensive ones and it worked fine not building an airplane over here it was called iswiss or something. I have an intake for each pump so i can fill my bags all at the same time so yes i drilled two additional holes in the bottom of my boat. yes i was nervous about this step. and still am because i havent put the boat in the water yet but i will update everyone on that later. originally i ordered two reversible pumps and was going to replace center bag aerator pump with reversable later but i did not like that all my intakes werent going to be in a straight line and one was going to be on opposite side of other two so i removed aerator pump and ordered my third reversable so now thru hull intakes are all on the same side and in straight line i believe one is 5" center to center and other is 4.5 I used 1” hose for fill lines and 3/4 for vent 3/4” hose is a lot easier to work with if you decide to go that route. Use a 1 1/16” whole saw instead of 1 1/8 if you go with 3/4 thru Hull fittings you can buy one on amazon some local hardware stores may have it mine did or wakemakers sells them as well. I decided to purchase a fuse block and go that route 1) it looks cleaner in my opinion and I only have two wires running from battery side of boat instead of 6 and I connected positive to battery switch that way the kids cant bump switches and turn them on by accident that is if the switch is in off position. I am aware that there is a positive and negative bus above the fuse block I installed but the positive side is powered by 10 gauge wire and I did not feel like tracing it through the bird nest of wires under dash to upgrade it. I went with 6awg wire to power fuse block that way I can add things later if needed. If you go with 1” ballast hose and use the quick release bag connectors you will need a heat gun like it says on wakemakers website. To mount my switches I decided to mount them right under the drivers seat there is a black plastic piece that unscrews to access the seat to take it off I just bought a piece of plexy glass from LoweÂ’s cut it and decided to mount switches there for now was easier then where I was going to mount them I can always move them if I want. If you have any questions let me know and I’ll try and answer them I will post the link to YouTube video. The YouTube is just pictures with some writing I did not record entire project.
  28. 2 points
    The coating on my intake plenum was looking a bit dull and I wanted to make it a bit more appealing. Some time removing the powder coating and repainting was all that it required. The aluminium was pretty rough and pitted so I built it up with high fill primer and blocked it back until it was good enough for some base coat. I mixed some silver, red and candy concentrate to get it nice and bright. Once the base colour was down I blocked it back wet with 2000 and gave it 2 coats of clear. Another wet sand with 2000/3000 and then cut/polish gave it a glass like finish. I also gave the badges a sand and polish. Was about a days work but I'm stoked with how it came out. Next job is to pull the ski frame out and recoat.
  29. 2 points
    THANKS TO THE AWESOMENESS OF THIS COMMUNITY THIS IS NO LONGER THE BEST SOLUTION FOR AN ARDUINO BASED CONTROLLER THANKS @SONICJK FOLLOW THE LINK BELOW TO A MUCH BETTER BUILD https://www.wakegarage.com/forums/topic/610-arduino-controlled-diy-surf-system-with-bt-app/ The following is a low-cost automated controller based on the Arduino, which can be used for many things — including controlling surf devices. Per Arduino's website: "Arduino is an open-source electronics platform based on easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for anyone making interactive projects.” Arduino board are able to read inputs - such as a switch or sensor, and turn it into an output - such as activating a motor. You can tell your board what to do by sending a set of instructions to the microcontroller on the board. If you find this helpful consider making a donation to Wake the World - KC venmo @WTWKC PayPal - Donation Link If you'd like to purchase a pre programmed arduino i have a classified for that HERE So the Arduino beast has been conquered. Parts list and Pin out can be found HERE (or below) Arduino Pin GPS Pin Motor Driver Pin Surf Left Switch Surf Right Switch 0 1 2 TXD 3 RXD 4 L1/white 5 L2black 6 in1 7 in2 8 in3 9 in4 10 11 12 13 5V VCC +5V GND GND B2 B1 Motor Driver Board GND Battery GND out1 Right Lenco - White white out2 Right Lenco - Black black out3 Left Lenco - White green out4 Left Lenco - Black red POWER Battery +12VDC Relay 87 Blue 12vDC from battery 87a yellow Ground 86 white Motor driver board 85 black Ground 30 red To lenco Qty Item Price 1 GPS Antenna $12.95 https://www.adafruit.com/product/960 1 Antenna Pigtail $3.95 https://www.adafruit.com/product/851?gclid=Cj0KCQiA9_LRBRDZARIsAAcLXjchVZoCmPlwgVVZKlCfazsKGEdDCh5eYxGi2ogyp8QxA50sWQlEQeMaAltYEALw_wcB 1 Enclosure $32.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYXVLT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 9VDC Power Supply $11.85 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWCJPC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Arduino $12.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4LP86I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 GPS Module $20.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AW5QYES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Screw Shield $9.98 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SGTP20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Jumper Wires $6.98 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZF1ZSZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Motor Driver $6.98 https://www.amazon.com/Controller-H-Bridge-Stepper-Mega2560-Duemilanove/dp/B01BWLICV4/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525699900&sr=1-9&keywords=arduino+motor+controller 1 Rotary Switch $15.86 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LN4LUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 Lenco Fast Actuators $169.97 https://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?pnumber=LM15129001&mfg=LENCO%20MARINE&desc=4%201/4%20Stroke%20Actuator%2012%20Volt&mfgno=15129-001 1 Relays $24.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQNJKM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MTQNJKM&pd_rd_wg=JofXP&pd_rd_r=P1GZCKAK4HXSHT5T5WQJ&pd_rd_w=h0vct Logic for the NEWLY TESTED transfer capable surf devices can be found HERE Libraries needed - Serial Library - GPS Library - you'll need to add these to your online or offline arduino editor library for the code to work properly. Video of the test with just the switch can be found HERE The gate is set to deploy between 7 and 15 MPH you can edit the logic to change those speeds - the gate is set to deploy for ~2 seconds and retract for ~3 seconds you can change that time in the logic next step will be using some type of pot device to vary the deploy time. Attached are some pictures of the bench test wiring setup - i'll get the final boxed version uploaded sometime in the next week hopefully if my parts show up
  30. 2 points
    Looks awesome... damn it, I still have carpet. Love these projects but hate the reminders! haha
  31. 2 points
    Tylerstrop, on your boat, both pumps are technically low pressure pumps. The short and fat Carter pump is there to supply sufficient fuel volume at around 7 psi to the injection pump which should hold 12 to 15 psi on your TBI engine. One big advantage with running the carter pump is that it’s made to pull fuel, it’s a lift pump. Cummins used that same pump mounted to a billet aluminum plate to lift diesel fuel from semi tanks to the engine for several years. They work very well. If you were to put a 100 micron filter before the lift pump and a 10 micron after it, that would be a nice setup. Just make sure the filters flow at least 2 to 3 gallons per minute. I have a high flow 10 micron filter setup I’m putting together for a fall project coming and will post an update when it’s time.
  32. 2 points
    Something that really bothers me on the new boats is the crappy removable Igloo/Yeti coolers that are way too small to hold enough beverages for 6-10 people on a boat all day long. We like to get out on the water to wakeboard and surf at 10am and not return until dark. This cooler will hold ice for 2-3days, It holds over 90 cans with room for ice. I made it out of pink insulation foam from home depot. I cut the foam with a jig saw, glued the pieces together with gorilla glue, routed the corners smooth and wrapped it in fiberglass and epoxy with a white dye so I didn't need to paint it. I used three layers of fiberglass - probably way overkill but I didn't want it to dent or crack when dumping cases of cans in the cooler. The inside corners took some extra work - i used fiberglass powder filler and mixed it with epoxy to get real thick then filled the corners so it was a soft inner radius - much easier to cover in fiberglass. I wanted it as big as possible so I had to make it in two pieces and caulk the back part on after it was in the boat - I then added a rubber refrigerator seal and a small drain hole in the bottom with a plug - I have the solidworks model if anyone wants it PM me.
  33. 2 points
    2006 Malibu 247 lsv Wetsounds, Heatercraft, Wakemakers reversible ballast, removed tribal graphics whould love a dripless setup!! Also add a FAE
  34. 2 points
    2008 Mastercraft X2, would love to upgrade to the Glide drip less system. Also upgrading some stereo stuff and new prop this season.
  35. 2 points
    With surfing becoming the main priority on my boat I've slowly started updating over this spring. Numerous projects going on at once but the exhaust was a quick and easy after looking at a few similar projects here on the forum. I took a slightly different path from the last few I've seen for a muffler bypass. Instead of using straight rubber wet exhaust hose or even abs pipe I chose to buy 2 pre bent 3.5 mandrel 90° exhaust fittings from summit racing. I believe the part number was SUM-622130. I trimmed roughly 6 and 3/4's of an inch off of each side to make them slip into the existing rubber boots that went to the original silent rider exhaust. I felt like it gave a more complete finish to the engine compartment, rather than going with any of the alternatives. Once I finish the rest of the updates inside the boat I will be building my own fae from the same stainless exhaust piping.
  36. 2 points
    I know this thread is old, but being someone with experience in automotive racing and boating, I started researching the fuel pump in Indmar’s s495117 conversion kit and found some with the pierburg brand pump and some kits without. They all had the same part number, but the kit that doesn’t use the pierburg brand pump uses the Walbro gsl392 pump. The number is on the pump Indmar sales for over $300, but walbro sales it for $98. Fuel pump pt# gsl392, fitting pt# 128-3041, Order the copper sealing washers with the fitting, $ .99 each. Just have to check the box. Your not supposed to run anything smaller than a 30 micron filter pre pump, but no matter where I look all I can find for our 1/2” fuel lines is 10 micron or 149 micron. I have used the 10 micron wix 33299, or Napa 3299 for 5 years now with no issues. This is my first post and I don’t know if links are allowed, so if it gets deleted I understand. But here is the link to the manufacturers online store for the fuel pump. https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl392-inline-fuel-255lph-pump.html
  37. 2 points
    07 247 lsv a surf system with out suction cups, interior and hopefully glide seal and stereo upgrades are the goals for the coming off season.
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    1998 Malibu VLX Don't have much for summer projects except enjoying time behind the boat.
  40. 2 points
    1988 Supra Sunsport. not looking to do much else this summer other than surf! i do get annoyed every spring at having to adjust my shaft packing though, so the Glide system would be an awesome addition.
  41. 2 points
    2007 MC X2 - I'll be adding custom EVA flooring next month.
  42. 2 points
    2006 Malibu Wakesetter 23LSV Still planning to do some additional powder coating on the Wakesetter emblems. I would also like to redo the flooring. And a dripless shaft seal, of course.
  43. 2 points
    Hey all - my apologies - i just logged back in for the first time since the fall and see i missed a lot of messages! I'll start out by saying, I have since replaced my original arduino system with a new bluetooth BLE enabled one - which is much simpler to build - and based on a single robotics board - and a single GPS module. I plan to upload the code and post schematics for it - i just haven't gotten around to it as i had a big move and a bit of a crazy fall/winter/spring. I did drop the surf band - as i never really used it and it kept eating batteries. The new version lets me adjust settings (and control) via an app on my phone - as well as the hard wired controls. A smart watch app would be trivial as well. I'll upload the new version to a net github location leaving the legacy one in place - and get back to people who messaged me over the next few days! If anything is urgent drop a line and I'll see if i can help get you on the water asap. Sorry no i wont build you one! But the new one is much simpler to build!
  44. 2 points
    Update: Now that we have been able to ride and tweek the GSA wave, i thought I would report our experiences. A bit of weight adjustments were necessary to accommodate for the new system vs. the suckgate. Once dialed we were blown away with wave shape, height, length and push at the back of the wave. My average size riders were riding the pocket about 15 ft back and recovering from the wash approx. 20 ft back on skim boards! The fat guys like me, lol, were on the brakes way back in the curl! I had to adjust my normal stance back a bit on the board to get off the brakes. Wave on port side had that curl and lip I've always been envious of on the goofy side! GSA, Imho, is superior in every way to the suckgate we ran last season. Here is our ballast setup. Bow ballast approx 500 lbs: approx 350 in plumbed bag under seat and 150 lbs crew. Midship approx 500 to 600 lbs in plumbed bag under floor in place of hard tank. Cabin approx 1000 lbs in crew, gear and 300 plumbed bag under coffin seat for slight list to surf side. Rear approx 2600 lbs: 750s, hard tanks, 200 lead placed under bags, simulated wedge weight. Note: We also had another 300 in lead to move around depending on surf side and crew seating to dial in the wave. GSA was dialed to surf setting for port and skim for goofy. Bow rise was noticably less than last season with a suckgate. Most riders preferred this setup for each side. A couple less experienced riders preferred the GSA set to skim on port side for more mellow transition and height, which brought the bow even more. I love being able to make these adjustments at the push of a button!
  45. 2 points
    Digital designs, hand made in good ole Oklahoma City. http://ddaudio.om/products/subwoofers/power-tuned/dd3500/
  46. 2 points
    This is going to be a two parter, this post is part one and will focus on the layout and upholstery and part two will cover the semi-auto/hidden ballast for direct drives. The ultimate goal for this project was to take the old competition skier to something a bit more modern as far as storage and useability goes, more like a modern wake boat. The wake produced by the SN2001 line speaks for itself. The original post made in the in progress project section can be located here Step one on my project came during the tear down for my stringer/floor job a couple springs ago. After thinking on ways (and doing a sub-par conversion) to accomplish the goal I had the interior apart, at that time I took tons of measurements and even outlined it all out on the floor so I could lay my eyes on it in that boat. Then transferred all that to graph paper, and saved it until I got started. The next step was to get started on the seat bases and the frame for the motor box. I used wood coated in epoxy resin, and eventually covered in carpet for this. Most everything ended up being scrap I had from the dolly I used for the stringer and left over resin. Seat bases are 2x6 motor box is 2x4. I started with the motor box and built the four main supporting posts up to the same height. So the sun pad would sit flat. The gunwales on my ride gradually slant toward the transom so I had to build from the floor up to get a level surface. Once built, and test fitted, I moved to the seat bases. I decided to go with corners over curves like the Malibu's for the ease of building. Once the frames we're built, I had to take some material off the flame arrestor. It wasn't much, roughly an inch or so, you can order them, but I figured I'd try and mod the existing one. After the 34 years of use a slight pry on the top surface cover revealed what was left of some sort of adhesive, I decided to cut the excess material out and epoxy it all back together. It's working great. While mocking up the seat bases, I also cut my cushion backing boards. I used outdoor playwood, 3/4" was used for everything that will carry body weight and 1/2" for all the seat backs and misc trim. Again it was coated on all sides with the epoxy resin. I waited to coat though until I thought I was sure my pieces would fit correctly. My first mock up, had to be re worked because I did not account for the padding to be added to either the seat backs or cushions. Next step was upholstery, I ordered a total of 13 yards for this project, 12 of the main color and one of the accent. This boat is small so I'd imagine most folks would need a good bit more vinyl then me. V-92 polyester three and a #18 needle was used in my very old singer 15-91 sewing machine that I had to rewire prior to use. I picked foam on eBay, used 3" for the seat bottoms and 2" for the backs and sun pad. This had a 55lbs force rating, I would not recommend going any lighter on foam this thin that will carry body weight. 1/2" foam 45lbs was used for the other panels and around the speakers. I also used silk plastic as a moisture barrier between the vinyl and foam and the basting tape (double sided tape for upholster) both from sailrite. Sailrite has a great diy upholstery video selection on YouTube, that really got me going in the right direction. They include part numbers and info on everything the use in the videos which makes finding supplies simple. When it came time to see, I wanted to do what I thought was the most simple pieces first. A solid colored seat cushion for instance. I started by taking the wood base. Flip it face down and trace out on the bottom of the vinyl. Add 1/2" all the way around. Then I cut the side pieces. I need 1/2" plus 3" for foam plus 3/4 for the base plus about 2 for Staples. Maybe 6 to 6-1/2" wide material the length plus some extra of the perimeter of the piece. I just rough measured everything. The foam was cut with an electric turkey knife at roughly the size of the base plus half an inch all the way around. I did not want to see the edge of the bases through the vinyl so the excess foam helped in addition to routing the edges top and bottom. Adding the accent color was a bit more difficult, especially since it was from scratch, all my accent colors were straight lines so I imagine that was better then doing curves on my first upholstery attempt. The key was picturing the finished product, adding that half inch for my seams and not rushing. I drew the pattern on the surface of the base, then a was able to trace it and stop at the seams for each individual piece of material. On the seats I had patterns for, I used the old vinyl as a template. Of course there is a learning curve and it shed up on my top stitching, also in the pic below you can see wrinkles in the cushions. Once I added foam and vinyl, the gap between the cushions I initially left was too small. I picked the Staples out re cut, re epoxied trimmed the foam, trimmed and re stitched the vinyl and stapled again to get it tight. I can't remember exactly, but it needed closer to 1/2" between the bases to ft snug. Below are the finished pics. I didn't mention it before but the bottom side and insides of the cushions and compartment pieces are covered with carpet and I ordered the cushion stops from nautiqueparts to keep the loose seat cushions in place. Stainless cup holders can be had for cheap on Amazon, I added 7 in the new parts of the project. I got the piano hinges on eBay. Stainless and/or aluminum for cheap. The pad above the speakers on the transom attach with Beau clips (I think) from sailrite. They press in and pull out by hand. Great for panels with little to no access for carriage bolts. Side note: the vinyl I also scored on eBay for pretty cheap, quality may end up showing that, I didn't want to buy high end stuff and ruin it trying to sew. I can't speak for other brands, but this Bron gets really hot in the sun. Overall we are really happy with the useability of the boat now. Feels a lot roomier and has tons (compared to before) of storage.
  47. 2 points
    This Malibu was in for some significant audio upgrades, but one of the main concerns was the lack luster performance from the factory woofer. The OEM installed Rockford Fosgate Marine 12" woofer, is actually a quality woofer and can sound pretty good! The issue is, with the factory build enclosure. It has 2 main failures. 1, it leaks air like sieve and 2, its too small even if you fix the leaks. Ive seen some so bad, you can see daylight through the seams. You can see below, the owners past attempts to seal the old enclosure. OEM enclosure is about .7 ft3 prior to the woofer going in. New enclosure is 1.1. Does not sound like a big difference, but it actually is. A small change in the air volume impacts the woofer's sound and performance. Think about the thickness and tension of the strings on a stringed instrument. You can tune the woofer but adjusting the internal air volume. So we spec out a new custom enclosure that larger, and of course, air tight. We mate it to the original facade and only end up moving the facade out about an inch. Ends up looking completely original, but the improvement is huge. In this particular build, we had the advantage of freeing up the factory 500W 2 chnl tower amp. So we pulled the original 300W woofer amp and repurposed the 500W to the woofer. So we also gained some wattage performance. Trifecta! This setup started in about 2012 or 2013 and was found on the traditional nosed boats. On the MXZ's, they just front loaded the woofer to the plastic foot well, and run the woofer free-air. Equally poor execution. These boats also benefit from a custom enclosure.
  48. 2 points
    Great write-up. Looks like a well executed install. I really love that launch feature of the GSA. I haven’t been able to try one or test it but your description is money for wake boarding.
  49. 2 points
    This is how I free a very stubborn coupler. Hopefully it helps someone trying to convert to dripless packing. This is on an older Malibu, but principle is the same on most Vdrive and DDs. Some of your older Centurys use different methods to key/index the shaft, so be sure to uncouple shaft and figure out how the shaft is joined to coupler. In this case you have to remove the nut(1 1/16" socket on 1" shafts)inside the coupler and loosen the set screws, there are two hex key/allen heads in the coupler. Next I use some long 3/8" bolts with no shoulders and a socket to preload the living crap out of the shaft. We have a sweet slide hammer at the shop that was there before I started. I have searched the web for one just like it to no avail, but this is the closest I can find(If anyone wants to machine a better one I have some ideas) https://www.generalpropeller.com/shaft-puller Thread the puller on and slide hammer away. In this case this STILL wouldnt free the coupler. SO, heat to the nibral/brass coupler while your buddy/wife/kiddo slowly turns the shaft and occasionally puts some work into the slide hammer and bingo, shaft pops right out of coupler. Most are a lot easier but if youve got one that fights you I hope this helps.
  50. 2 points
    Added some surf pockets and they work awesome. So much easier than using the surf racks and should be a little easier on the boards. First I laid out the boards and outlined with chalk My DAKINE bag was already the perfect shape. Figured I'd just use it as a pattern I bought some mesh from the local upholstery shop, it was $6.95/yd. Also got some sunbrella seconds for $12.95/yd and nylon edging I ended up using a layer of sunbrella between the Bimini and a layer of mesh. I doubt the mesh will hold up as well as the sunbrella, but I had read that I might have problem with boards warping due to heat if I only used sunbrella. the extra layer of sunbrella under the boards would also help mitigate any issues I'd have with wear and tear of the factory bimini the first pocket sewn on The starboard side had a built in pocket that needed to be relocated to remain functional. Both sides done. I made one of the elastic bungee retainers a bit longer to accommodate the longer fin position on the inland surfboard The shorter bungee worked just as well with the longer board if you only capture one fin.
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