Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Yesterday
  3. Last week
  4. Earlier
  5. Hyperryd

    Homemade Surf Tabs

  6. Jeffo

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    Only what I see on You Tube
  7. Awesome job. I'll post mine too... although my gelcoat was black and you can kinda see the cracks still even though it's perfectly smooth and was color matched. I think another summer in the sun will fix that though... and yes I'm the only one who even notices/sees it. Much better than cracks! Another good trick is to drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, to keep the underlying crack from continuing. Then fill in with gel coat, etc.
  8. A little late, Pete. But we will do more in future for sure!
  9. JackBauer37

    Seadek refresh - Carpet replacement

    What primer and paint did you use? And did you have some uneven spots needing extra attention?
  10. The orange bimini that was on it was in the way if you wanted to add tower speakers. I had a free weekend and thought I'd try to see if I could make a new Bimini top before the new owner picked up the boat.  was able to reuse the stainless bars. I changed up the mounting location of the bimini bars to make the over-the-top bimini work. I used some strapping tape to hold the bars in the new position and used plastic to make a new pattern.  I have never tried to make a bimini, but it came out better than I had expected. I made it about a foot longer than before. You can never have enough shade in Arizona.
  11. I found a bunch of spider cracks on the bottom of the boat. I have no idea how long they had been there. Looks it had been awhile and I didnt check under the boat when I bought it. At this point I had taken a deposit from I guy that bought it from California sight unseen.. I didn't want to sell it to the next guy in this shape so I figured I'd fix the cracks before he picked it up  I ground out the cracks using a Dremmel tool, then filled the cracks with color matched gelcoat material from Spectrum Color. Malibu had used two different colors of white in 2002. "Moon Beam" or "Bright White" MALIBU BRIGHT WHITE (OPAL) I couldn't find a Malibu color chart so I took a chance and ordered a quart of the bright white.  I didn't snap any pics of the repair process but what I did was use a layer of masking tape around the cracks to keep from sanding into the existing gelcoat. I used a paint brush to fill the crack with as much gelcoat as I could get in there. The gelcoat is pretty runny and you aren't able to get much to stick with it being on the underside of the boat. In hindsight I should have used plastic to help force it into the crack. I keep thinking that one more coat with a paint brush would do it...I ended up filling and sanding it 10 times. For the final finish I sanded with 180, 300 1000, 1500 grit and then used a polisher with Meguiars Mirror Glaze #49 Oxidation Remover to buff to a shine. 
  12. edit: This project followed the interior replacement project found here: While pulling out the seats I found out the carpet was so much worse than I had originally thought. This was about the same time I had found a good deal on a newer Tige Z3. I ended up buying the Tige and was now the owner of two boats. My wife thought I should just sell the Malibu and stop dumping money into it, but I had come this far and the old girl deserved some new carpet.  I did the carpet over the 4th of July holiday. Phoenix gets stupid hot in the summer, but it was only 108 degrees that day. Almost bearable with the assistance of my shade fort that I made with a boat cover and an EZup.  The existing carpet pulled up pretty easy but left a layer of glue that was crazy sticky. I used a hot gun and a trowel to remove as much as I could, but when I did a test fit it screwed-up some of the carpet when I tried to pull the carpet back out and some of the carpet fibers got stuck in the glue. To overcome the sticky problem, I put down a temporary layer of plastic. I ended up leaving the existing carpet under the port side seats as it was in relatively good shape and it allowed me to not have to use the bit of carpet that got ruined.   Carpet install was pretty straight forward. I glued down the carpet it 3'-4' sections using contact cement. It took all day and my head was spinning from the fumes, but it came out really nice. It was definitely worth the effort, now it feels like a new boat.
  13. JackBauer37

    New Ultralon Floor for 2003 VLX

    You mentioned the epoxy used was from axson. Would you be able to tell me exactly which epoxy you used? The gray finished product looks like the way to go. Thanks
  14. The interior was in pretty good shape for a 16 year old boat. The part that really bugged me was that the sun deck was spray painted by the previous owner to try to hide a cigarette burn that he tried to fix. Also wasnt a big fan of the orange welting. There were also a couple seat covers that had been replaced and didn't match the rest of the boat.  I wasn't able to find material that matched the factory upholstery, so I decided to swap out the perforated material for a light grey. But after seeing how bad the old seats really were I opted to do the entire boat.  The seats were a lot more work than I had expected. I figured it would take a couple weeks to complete, but it took the better part of 2 months of nights and weekends to finish everything.  While pulling out the seats I found out the carpet was so much worse than I had originally thought. This was about the same time I had found a good deal on a newer Tige Z3. I ended up buying the Tige and was now the owner of two boats. My wife thought I should just sell the Malibu and stop dumping money into it, but I had come this far and the old girl deserved some new carpet. Entire carpet project is here: \ \
  15. Added some surf pockets and they work awesome. So much easier than using the surf racks and should be a little easier on the boards. First I laid out the boards and outlined with chalk My DAKINE bag was already the perfect shape. Figured I'd just use it as a pattern I bought some mesh from the local upholstery shop, it was $6.95/yd. Also got some sunbrella seconds for $12.95/yd and nylon edging I ended up using a layer of sunbrella between the Bimini and a layer of mesh. I doubt the mesh will hold up as well as the sunbrella, but I had read that I might have problem with boards warping due to heat if I only used sunbrella. the extra layer of sunbrella under the boards would also help mitigate any issues I'd have with wear and tear of the factory bimini the first pocket sewn on The starboard side had a built in pocket that needed to be relocated to remain functional. Both sides done. I made one of the elastic bungee retainers a bit longer to accommodate the longer fin position on the inland surfboard The shorter bungee worked just as well with the longer board if you only capture one fin.
  16. Shoebox

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    I cut them down to 12", but you could use any length that works for your boat and tab width. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J0M8MY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  17. Leebo

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    Lining up a Black Friday purchase to do this over the winter. What was the length of the hinges (or where did you get them)? Thx!
  18. Number9

    Moomba OEM Woofer Enclosure Install

    Awesome mod. Thanks for sharing
  19. Rugger

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    Do you know anything about metal work, Jeffo? JK!
  20. Jeffo

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    Great job!! Good write up also. thanks! i will be building a set in the near future.
  21. For most Moomba owners of the past 6-7 model years with OEM woofer option, by far, the biggest complaint is the lack luster woofer performance. Sadly, its the woofer, mainly the brand, that gets the bad wrap. In reality, its the choice of Moomba, to cut a corner. The Kicker KM10 woofer is NOT a true infinite-baffle/free-air woofer, meaning, it works best with a small enclosure behind it. Moomba chooses to load it through the under helm facade, with no enclosure structure behind it. Further more, the facade is not even a complete wall. Its actually open at the top! This allows output off the back of the driver, to flow over and meld with the output off the front. This creates phase cancellation issues. This makes tuning correctly, nearly impossible. Sound quality and performance will suffer. It can also be detrimental to the woofer, leading to a mechanical failure and short life. The fix: small sealed or ported enclosure back loaded behind the facade and a proper amp tune. You can comfortably fit a small sealed enclosure between .8 and 1.0 ft3, depending on year, model and options, under the helm. The boat will retain the factory look with little no loss of leg room. The original facade is retained, with little modification. A larger ported enclosure will require more design and fab time, and result in some loss of some leg room under the helm. Installing an enclosure makes a world of difference in both sound quality and output. Construction finished, ready for sealing. Finished enclosure installed and facade and woofer back in place. Also installed a Fusion MX-NRX300 transom remote and N2K Backbone to support it. Since the boat had a Wet Sounds RGB controller installed aftermarket by dealer, we wire the Kicker KM10's RGB LEDs to the controller.
  22. Gravity

    New Ultralon Floor for 2003 VLX

    Pm sent Thanks
  23. McCannLand

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    That’s an awesome build and great write up, thanks.
  24. Shoebox

    Homemade Surf Tabs

    I went round and round in my mind about whether to make a set of surf gates or tabs for my boat. Gates seemed easier, but when I made a ghetto gate to test the "proof of concept", the wave wasn't very good, and my boat didn't like it much. So tabs it is. I looked at the tabs that come on basically all the manufacturers that used them, and ended up essentially copying what's on the MB boats. I made about 100 drawings, and at least 3 cardboard mockups until I was happy with it, then gave those measurements to my buddy, who put them into CAD. I wouldn't recommend using the measurements in this drawing to make a set. This was one of my first drawings, and the measurements are pretty far off. I also made some cardboard mockup actuators, at retracted and extended length to see how everything would fit. They were a little flimsy, so later I made some out of paint stir sticks. We got the metal waterjet cut, bent at a local fabricator, and then welded them up. I could have saved about $150 by cutting everything myself and welding on the side pieces instead of bending them, but the finished product is much nicer this way. I also had to make the lower actuator brackets, which is of 2" square aluminum tube with one side shaved off. The tabs are 3/16" 5052 aluminum plate, roughly 17.5" wide x 21" long. Everything powdercoated satin black. Lenco uses #14 screws for their trim tab hinges, so that's what I was going to do too. They say to drill the pilot holes with a 3/16" bit. Drilling into the hull was more than a little nerve-wracking. First screw cracked the hell out of the gelcoat and froze in place about 1/2" in, and the head broke off. F*%k!!! I decided to leave that screw alone, and used #12 screws for the rest. I also had to use the Lenco remote gland seal kit to route the actuator wires into the boat, because where the actuators mount is below the floor in the lockers. Broke one screw on each of those too. 1" thick fiberglass does not like being screwed into. For controls, I'm initially using regular Lenco trim tab switches. I made a mounting plate to mount the switches in the huge hole left by the Sony remote next to the throttle. In a couple weeks a friend I made through another forum is sending me an arduino-based controller he built which will have all of the features of the Wake Logic setup, without the high price tag. I made a relay panel, for when I get the controller. The switches and Lenco wiring would work fine without it, but the controller can't handle that kind of amperage. The relay panel is behind the rear panel in my starboard locker. The first day of testing had mixed results. The wave forms almost instantly, and the shape is much better and more fun than the Nauticurl wave, but at the moment doesn't have as much push. I need to move weight around to see where it needs to be. (Most of this was written as I went, obviously I have made progress and know results of a lot of this. One thing here, was not playing enough with tab deployment. It was almost full deployment, 18 degrees down, for this initial testing) I need to remove some weight from the bow, because the tab pushes the nose down, as well as lists the boat. That may add some push. My biggest mistake was using aluminum hinges. That’s what MB uses, but I guess theirs are much thicker than what I used. My hinges started to bend, particularly at that one broken screw. I pulled the tabs back off, and was able to get that broken screw out. My buddy suggested we tap the holes for ¼”-20 machine screws, which is what we ended up doing. The threads are the same depth as the sheet metal screws, but there are many more of them, so the holding power will be much greater. I don’t know why Lenco and others don’t suggest doing it this way. I ordered some new, thicker, stainless steel hinges. They are significantly stronger and better. Got the boat back in the water for more testing after the hinge replacement. I moved all the lead I had in the bow to the floor in front of the rear seat on the surf side. I also initially only filled the bow ballast halfway. Nose was way too high, needed more speed and wakeplate full down. I filled the bow ballast the rest of the way, and really seemed to make a powerful wave. The proof is in the surfing, but I was the only one in the boat, so surf test would have to wait. (An updated note here again. I still hadn't fully played with tab deployment angles, so these still were not the optimum wave or weight placement.) So at this point, I started to A) worry about the length of these tabs and the forces being put on the hinge and transom, and B) wonder if a shorter, simpler tab would work as well. After all, the stock Moomba Flow 2.0 tabs are quite a bit smaller and work great. Started making smaller test tabs. There is be a 1.5", 30° bend where the line is on the right, both for rigidity and to help direct the water. No Waterjet this time, since they don't need to be quite so precise. Used a circular saw, and got them within 1/16". Not too bad. Once again, I made the lower actuator mounts out of 2" square 1/8" wall aluminum tube. This time I left a reinforcing piece on the top, to keep the sides from flexing in and tightening too much on the actuator. Smoothed everything out and rounded all the sharp edges, then started to test fit. I wasn't sure what angles I wanted the tabs to deploy. You can see the marks for various angles written on the plastic. I went to my local Moomba dealer and had the sales guy deploy a set for me so I could see. Moomba's max down angle is 30 degrees, but most seem to run them at 60%, so 20 degrees. So it gave me something to work with for setting my tab angles. I had originally made lower brackets that had a single hole for the actuator. But I decided I wanted to have some adjustability. I made a couple different versions, but ended up with a design I like. They have 4 actuator holes (of which only 3 are really usable) which will provide 18, 24, and 30 degrees of deployment. I also made it so I can move the mount itself a half inch to change the angles more. Tabs were bent to 30 degrees, holes drilled. I also made diversion fins for the bottom of the tabs, 2 on each. I'll see how these work, and may play with the angles a bit with those as well. They are currently set at 60° from the transom.  For the first test surf, the wave felt better and larger than the black tabs. However, I wasn't sure if that was because of how the boat was weighted, tab angles, etc.  What we ended up doing was a head-to-head test with both sets of tabs. I went out with some buddies (we all surf regular) to test both sets of tabs I made to see if one is better. We filled all the bags (1100s rear, 400 center, 750 IBS, and a 400 on the floor in the pass through) and 150 lead in each locker, 50 under right rear seat, 150 on surf side rear floor, 170 under bow filler cushion. So just about 4k total. 3 guys at 210ish and 1 girl maybe 140. The first set were the smaller of the 2. At 11.0 and wakeplate up, the wave was great, big with lots of push. For reference, my buddy in the pics is 6'2", 220+.  Then we went back to the dock where I swapped out the starboard tab for the larger, black one. The pic shows the size difference between the two.  We went back out and surfed the black tab, same weight and placement, just less gas. If I didn't tell you the tabs were different, you probably wouldn't know the difference. But the wave seemed a little bit larger, a little bit longer, and a little more push. It also seemed "harder" or firmer. It was kind of weird and took some getting used to. The most surprising thing was how little downward angle the tabs had for the best wave. I measured the silver set just before swapping out, and it was only 5° down. I wasn't able to measure the black set, but the angle was similar. Overall, I'm torn on which set I'm keeping. I like that the black set wave is a tiny bit better, but I also like how much smaller the silver set is. Decisions, decisions...  So here's what I have in everything so far. Black tabs: Aluminum 3/16" plate - $120 2" square tube, 1/8" wall - $8 Waterjet cuts - $100 Bends - $37.50 Powdercoating - $80 Total: $345.50 Silver tabs: Aluminum 3/16" plate - $30 2" square tube - leftover from above 3 ft of 1" angle aluminum 1/8" wall - $10 Cutting/bending - $0 Polishing or powdercoating to come Total: $40 + finish Everything else: Hinges .09" stainless, 1/4" pin - $50 Lenco 101xds actuators - $360/pr Lenco trim tab switches - $70 Lenco cable extensions - $60/pr Lenco remote gland seal kit - $28 Misc stainless hardware - $50 Misc electrical - $50 3M 4200 sealant - $14 Extras total: $682
  25. Raisin' Cain

    More awesome MB Slappers

    Anyone have a source for some good hinges? I really like the ones on the white boat above.
  26. cowwboy

    IMG_2905.JPG

    Who did your boxes? Do you have any issues with sound cancellation with the subs being at different depths? Love that you're keeping business local.
  27. Congrats Cowwboy. And thanks for playing, everyone.
  1. Load more activity
×