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  4. Extra Ballast

    What did you use for your thru hull and ball valves?
  5. Wakesurf Board Rack

    Nice mod. I use that krypt rack on my boat as well, for what it's worth, my wakeboards are more stable on it then the other cheap wakeboard specific rack I got. I'll probably end up replacing the board rack for another surf rack. Nice project
  6. Malibu Swim Step bracket replacement.

    I removed my brackets as well. Yes you should be able to pull back the carpet to access from the inside. Think they were 1/2” fine thread bolts. Can then use 3m adhesive spray or something similar to make it stick. Post your modified brackets please! That’s a common problem.
  7. Malibu Swim Step bracket replacement.

    Have and 08 wakesetter, wear is the same, my welder says he can re machine brackets, question: can't remove the hull side bracket, is this a bolt nut arrangement where I have to remove carpet to get to nut ? I notice the carpet seems well glued on ? how did you put back in place, thanks ?
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  9. 2012 23LSV Surfgates

    I dig it!
  10. Wakesurf Board Rack

    Great job Setter. I did a similar conversion last year with Samson fingers I got off Craigslist. I had to drill new holes on the factory MB plate but all in all not that bad. Luckily the Samson fingers have a hook already at the base of the fingers. They look factory and work great. I swapped the wakeboard fingers on the other side to match only because they were part of the deal. (And because I’m anal like that. lol)
  11. Extra Ballast

    Give that man a hat!! Lol Nice job on your projects Setter and welcome to the more mine & talent than money club!
  12. Wakesurf Board Rack

    Still working on the hook. All of my boards are at the cabin so I'm not sure on hook position. It might end up being attached to the lower of the two factory brackets. Probably just find a nice looking SS or aluminum hook and bolt it on. I was thinking about cutting the backside (where the unused mounting holes are) into the curve to match the stock ones.
  13. 2012 23LSV Surfgates

    Looks great man - I'll be getting the arduino shipped out to you in the next week.
  14. 2012 23LSV Surfgates

    The decal is multi 3 colors. Blue then black and chrome on the middle. Imade the control sticker out of the same matching blue to tie it together. I may be redoing that though as I'm not 100% sure I love the location. B your knee can hit it when sitting just rite. More than happy to answer questions, that is how I got the info I needed to be confident in my decisions. Jhart is programming it for me.
  15. Extra Ballast

    looks awesome! great job, well thought out and executed!
  16. 2012 23LSV Surfgates

    Badass. Looks like it could be stock. Gonna have questions if you don't mind haha.... who is programming your arduino? You using the code listed on this site from Jhart?
  17. Wakesurf Board Rack

    I might be copying you on this. We usually only bring one wakeboard, so thought about swapping one of the combo racks for duals as well. How would you make it look stock? I guess I don't see much difference so I don't see a problem. Looks good! Price is right. Only part I don't see is the hook for the bungee. Thanks for sharing.
  18. 2012 23LSV Surfgates

    Awesome work. That's a big upgrade. The decals look great. Is the stainless look part of the decal, or is the blue form a stencil. Looks awesome either way. Thanks for sharing Also really like that you have all your main functions.... surf switch, sub, tower and side ballast, all in one spot. Is that also one sticker you had made?
  19. 2012 23LSV Surfgates

    The gates are made of 3/4"HPDE. They are 14" tall at the hull and taper to 12.5" at the back and are 19" long. I really want to make them look factory so I made myself a set of decals that are similar to the factory gate decal. I decided to counter sink and tap threads in the gates. This allowed me to make them flush. I also loctited them and then put epoxy in the heads so its smooth, this allows the decals to be smooth over them. After mounting the first tab I chose to make a template using the swim platform and hull to transfer it to the other side. I ordered a set of the Lenco Fast servos from MMI Marine. After a lot of research I chose to go with two 3" hinges. Most people say that screws are fine but I chose to go with bolts and backing plates. From prior fiberglass experience I went with multiple lighter plates. This reduces the risk of applying to much pressure at a specific point. For a control system I chose to go with a the Arduino system. I am very comfortable with the wiring but not the programming so I chose to have the board programmed. I a also like redundancy so I chose to include a set of hard wire switches so if the system decides not to work at any time I can turn that system off and run the tabs in and out manually. The control system is the only portion that I do not have completely finished. I am just waiting on a few minor parts to finish it up and it should be ready. I will add additional pictures of this after it is done.
  20. Being the main driver of the boat I prefer to have control of the stereo. Since my boat does not have Bluetooth I decided to run a 20ft Aux cable from the glove box to the drivers seat storage area. Now I can change the songs from my phone while driving. I left plenty of extra so it can be ran to the seat behind the driver or put a mount on the windshield. I also like to change the tower speaker volume so I relocated the control to the drivers side. This only required the purchase of two 20ft rca cables. Since I was already mounting the ballast switches as well as the surf gate controls on the same area I chose to make a bracket and label made to put them all together.
  21. Extra Ballast

    Looking for an extra ballast option I chose to install 2 additional ballast bags. I decided to go with two 750lbs bags, one in each locker. I knew I wanted to have them hard wired and plumbed. I chose to go with Shurflo Piranha 1100gph pumps. For controls switches I chose to make make a panel to have all of the controls I was adding. I chose to use one of the extra, unused factory circuit breakers. They are wired through a relay so that the pumps only have power while the boat power switch is activated. I plumbed everything with 1 1/8 hose and fittings with a few exceptions. I was unable to find any anti-siphon loops bigger than 1 1/8. I was instructed by a couple places to just heat the hose up and tighten down the hose clamps, let the hose cool. I chose to then remove the hose, put in a film of silicone and reinstall them. Also I had the hose from the bag to the empty pump I used an adapter that is sized at 3/4. I may decide to change this if I find the empty overly slow. I also chose to put 1 1/4 aluminum angle iron on the back side of the engine divider panels to make sure they don't pop out of the factory panel brackets.
  22. I decided I wanted a double surf board rack. I wanted to use the factory bracket and didn't want to drop a huge amount of money into the project. I ordered a Krypt Towers - Double Wakesurf/Surfboard Tower Rack for $130.00 off Amazon. I matched the angle of the straight edge on the back side of the forks and it worked out really well. Eventually I may do a little modifying to make it look closer to stock. First picture shows one old and one new rack. Second is both new racks installed.
  23. Thx for the feed back. I'm definitely an ameture welder, I've got a Lincoln 180 power mig, I feel like the metal was joined as well as it needed to be, I just was lacking in the visual department. As far as the plates go when I was into Jeep's and off-roading I saw a lot of frame jobs, they all used a diamond shaped plate at the joint. Probably for the reasons you mentioned. I feel like the trailer will see much less stress and I'd be fine with the ones used. But I think you're absolutely correct. "Knocked out the stringers and stuff" was referencing the time between mid march and the end of May. But yeah no big deal. Hahaha that list kept getting loner the more I finished.
  24. Nice job. I love the part about "then I knocked out the stringers and junk" like that's no big deal. lol I'm with you on the prop guard... smart upgrade for sure! Definitely would feel more comfortable. Your welds are more than adequate... I did want to point out my buddies in custom fabrication always tell me it's better to weld at an angle on channel, so your cuts could have been done at a 45 and then your outside plate would be a diamond shape... so it never has direct vertical welds. Just throwing that down if anyone else wants to look into it. But your solution should not crack, is bullet proof, and looks good. And like you said, the weight distribution didn't even change. Looks good dude!
  25. The early ski nautique 2001s came with a short trailer, I read somewhere they were left over trailers from the earlier models that were shorter then the 18'6 SN 2001s. Whatever the reason it bothered me being short as well as not having a prop guard. As a temporary remedy I moved the boat forward on the trailer a few inches, resulting in a few inches of trailer and minimal effect on younger weight. Then I pulled the boat off to do stringers so I made some of the mods while it was off. I added 24" to the rear of the trailer, extended the bunks, paint and new carpet. One concern of somebody else, was extra weight on the rear of the trailer, but keep in mind the boat (the load) is sitting in the same spot, I really only added a few pounds of metal to the rear. Tows fine. When extending the trailer i butt welded the 24" piece on either side, for strength I welded a plate over the joint. Unfortunately the new steel is a bit thicker so the plate had to be on the outside of the frame. It's nearly invisible though once painted. While the boat boat is off the trailer, I'd recommend checking the wiring as well as running it through some pvc pipe to keep it neat. I hate seeing wires dangling riding down the road. Once complete with the above, I knocked out the stringers and other junk, and the boat went back on the trailer. After a short time, the prop guard was due up to be built. And asking in the nautique boats Facebook group, I learned the prop/rudder sat about 2-3/4" above the guard and the width of the bottom flat edge is about 17" wide on the later SN2001 factory trailers. I stuck pretty close to the 2-3/4" clearance between the prop and guard but I made my flat bottom edge wider, in my opinion 17 or wider is the way to go, I'd avoid narrower demensions to give some Lee-way while loading. I built the guard first first out of 2x4 lumber and copied the angles on to steel then welded it up. Then keeping it it a little like the later factory guard, I bolted it on. I used grade 8 bolts. The factory guard also had a center bar that ran forward and bolted to the nearest cross member on the trailer, so that was added as well. Last item on the list was to move the 3-light bar for wider trailers. I had previously built a replacement out of angle aluminum and LED lights, it was riveted on to the center of the prop guard and wired in. Project complete, I haven't scraped it yet beyond the gravel I park on, but I have piece of mind the running gear is now safe, and it looks like the correct trailer is under the boat.
  26. Correct. All my hose water goes straight to my raw water pump when the valve is “closed”. When the valve is straight/open, nothing flows to the hose connection.
  27. Fake-A-Lake NO MORE!

    Is this built in such a way that you close the lake water valve when you connect the hose? So as all the water goes to the engine. Thanks
  28. Miner's Moss Flooring

    good work i did this last year loved it - not hot in the sun - but it does slide around a bit more than i'd like as well.
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